100k + miles: My experience

[skipgen]

Interesting you guys say that, I sold my '09 G37 when it was 10 years old with 80k miles on it, and it was starting to show signs of needing work. Got $9.5k for it, bought the G80.

Got 7k for my 107K mile 2007 G35s - I took the money and ran. Bought my 5.0.

 

[carguy75]

I did not own a G35, but had a 2004 Infiniti FX45 that developed an cold start timing chain rattle at 112k miles that lasted a few minutes while driving until the engine warmed up.

I made the mistake of pushing the oil changes to 7k miles based on Infiniti forum members advice at the time (2007) that claimed full synthetic oil was good for 10k miles and it would be waste changing it any sooner. Well, at the time I did not know that Nissan made engines were prone to timing chain issues; especially with longer oil change intervals. Lesson learned after that mistake. To bad because I really like my old FX45.


My old 2004 FX45

 

[glennk]

Ever since Renault took over Nissan, their cars have gone down hill. Have been told by mechanics, get rid of a Nissan/Infiniti product before 100k as that's when things start of fail.

 

[skipgen]

I did not own a G35, but had a 2004 Infiniti FX45 that developed an cold start timing chain rattle at 112k miles that lasted a few minutes while driving until the engine warmed up.

I made the mistake of pushing the oil changes to 7k miles based on Infiniti forum members advice at the time (2007) that claimed full synthetic oil was good for 10k miles and it would be waste changing it any sooner. Well, at the time I did not know that Nissan made engines were prone to timing chain issues; especially with longer oil change intervals. Lesson learned after that mistake. To bad because I really like my old FX45.


My old 2004 FX45

I always thought that the 10k mi thing about synthetic was BS - the oil itself might still be good, but it's still dirty AF.

 

[carguy75]

I always thought that the 10k mi thing about synthetic was BS - the oil itself might still be good, but it's still dirty AF.

So true!!! Hence why I just stick with 4k miles oil changes even with synthetic oil. Never had any timing issues with shorter oil changes after that on any other car that I had around 100k miles; including my current 5.0 Genesis with about 80k miles. Cars with timing chains need proper oil flow to reduce wear and clean oil to keep the small orifices clear of sludge and gunk.

In contrast, timing belt driven engines may be fine with older dirty oil with 10k miles running through it due to no metal chains or plastic timing chain guides or oil fed hydraulic tensioners to worry about. However, timing chain engines need clean oil to run properly or you will be spending money on major engine repair(timing chain components) by 150k miles or sooner.

Therefore, If you are keeping your Genesis/G80 beyond 100k miles or it has more than 60k miles on it when you buy it; just use full synthetic oil and change the oil and filter by every 5k miles. Do not believe the hype about synthetic oil engine oil "properly" protecting your timing chain driven engine from wear for 10k miles or longer.

If you want your Genesis engine(V6 orV8) to have the best chance of lasting pass 100k miles without major engine work; just change your oil and filter every 3k-5k miles.

 

[glennk]

So true. Watching Velocity Garage on Youtube. Constantly has BMWs coming in needing gaskets, timing chains, VANOS failures and more due to BMWs insistence that 15,000 mile oil changes are sufficient. I guess when you exceed the warranty, BMW could scarcely care what happens to the customer.

 

[carguy75]

So true. Watching Velocity Garage on Youtube. Constantly has BMWs coming in needing gaskets, timing chains, VANOS failures and more due to BMWs insistence that 15,000 mile oil changes are sufficient. I guess when you exceed the warranty, BMW could scarcely care what happens to the customer.

Exactly, the same issues applies to other makes as well. Longer oil change intervals equates to a less reliable engine out of the warranty period even when using full synthetic oil. Most automakers probably knows or even expects that longer oil change intervals will leave the customers paying for expensive out-of-warranty engine repairs after 100k miles.

Hell, 100k miles is sort of an unofficial milestone to trade a car before issues happen. However, most newer engines could probably go 200k miles easy if the engine oil is changed by 5k miles as opposed to the 7k mile or longer oil change intervals the automakers recommend as regular service.

The same goes for the transmission fluid and filter. The sealed for life transmission is a crap idea as well if you are keeping the car pass 100k miles. Do not leave let that old transmission fluid run pass 100k miles if you want a long lasting transmission.

I have never owned a BMW due the issues you named. Nice looking performance cars, but it is coin toss on buying a used one that will not cost over $5k to repair. Buying one new is just a terrible investment due to how much the car will depreciate in value in the first three years. Nearly 40%(if not more) of the sticker price in three years in some cases.

Prime example.

A low mileage( about 27k miles) 2017 BMW 7 series loaded with the M package and Executive package for only $56K. This car costed about $90k new. Higher mileage ones are even cheaper, even 2018 models.

 

[TinsleyC]

On the Beamer, if you can get a good lease price, they're not bad for the first three years. It's the only way I'd own one.

 

[skipgen]

On the Beamer, if you can get a good lease price, they're not bad for the first three years. It's the only way I'd own one.

Yeah... The big 3 German brands make their cake on leases. Seem pretty disposable after 3 years or so.

 

[carguy75]

Yeah... The big 3 German brands make their cake on leases. Seem pretty disposable after 3 years or so.

LOL. Do not forget that the German big 3 make a nice profit on servicing and parts as well due to most repairs occurring after the warranty period expires on their cars and usually cost a customer a lot of money to repair the issues.

Hyundai is not perfect, but most of the drive-train parts are affordable and many of the repairs on their engines can be done with basic hand tools that can be purchased at a local parts store.

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[glennk]

BMW hasn't made good cars since 2003. Everything since has the aforementioned mechanical failures after 100k.
Mercedes-Benz since 2006 is trash too.

 

[Markymark]

Just adding my experience. I bought my 2015 5.0 with 70K miles 2 years ago and am at about 93K now. I've had no issues so far other than going through tires fast due to hitting a big pothole and misaligning my front tires. These low profile tires are a major PITA and the only major thing I don't like about the car (other than the weight).

I took a 1200 mile road trip this past weekend and it's great on the interstates. When I'm going 100, the cabin is still silent. The driving aids and the quiet cabin really help fatigue on long drives too. I hope the engine and transmission hold out for another 100K.

 

[glennk]

BMW hasn't made good cars since 2003. Everything since has the aforementioned mechanical failures after 100k.
Mercedes-Benz since 2006 is trash too.

Just adding my experience. I bought my 2015 5.0 with 70K miles 2 years ago and am at about 93K now. I've had no issues so far other than going through tires fast due to hitting a big pothole and misaligning my front tires. These low profile tires are a major PITA and the only major thing I don't like about the car (other than the weight).

I took a 1200 mile road trip this past weekend and it's great on the interstates. When I'm going 100, the cabin is still silent. The driving aids and the quiet cabin really help fatigue on long drives too. I hope the engine and transmission hold out for another 100K.

What tire are you using?

 

[181129]

My car: 2015 Genesis 3.8 AWD Ultimate.

I recently went over 100k miles and here’s my experience with what has gone wrong:

1. 20-30mph flutter was fixed at dealership while still under the 60k mike warranty.
2. The amber bulbs kept burning out so I replaced them with LEDs.
3. Passenger side 12v socket went out on me.
4. The sunroof creaks and sometimes doesn’t close unless I give it a push.
5. Changed all four tires. One tire was worn much worse than the other three. Haven’t had issues with that since . *I know it’s maintenance and not something wrong with the car. Just wanted to mention it.

That’s it! As of now, my car has been great and is still running smoothly. I’m diligent about cleaning the car (both inside and out) and doing all the maintenance required. I do my oil changes at Walmart because I ran out of dealer oil changes. Note: if you do your oil changes at Walmart, you need to take your own oil filter which you can find at AutoZone for about $8.

If you have questions, hit me up!

Did the dealership say what was causing the flutter at 20-30 MPH?

 

[luvgen4.6]

My car: 2015 Genesis 3.8 AWD Ultimate.

I recently went over 100k miles and here’s my experience with what has gone wrong:

1. 20-30mph flutter was fixed at dealership while still under the 60k mike warranty.
2. The amber bulbs kept burning out so I replaced them with LEDs.
3. Passenger side 12v socket went out on me.
4. The sunroof creaks and sometimes doesn’t close unless I give it a push.
5. Changed all four tires. One tire was worn much worse than the other three. Haven’t had issues with that since . *I know it’s maintenance and not something wrong with the car. Just wanted to mention it.

That’s it! As of now, my car has been great and is still running smoothly. I’m diligent about cleaning the car (both inside and out) and doing all the maintenance required. I do my oil changes at Walmart because I ran out of dealer oil changes. Note: if you do your oil changes at Walmart, you need to take your own oil filter which you can find at AutoZone for about $8.

If you have questions, hit me up!

Hi, please explain the 20-30 mph fluttering? I have 2012 4.6 150k miles and ever since I potential put a tad too much oil in- I feel a tad shake but more of a fluttering at 20-30 just like described! I adjusted oil level and it still does it! if similar issue, can you please describe how dealer fixed it? did they say its a common problem? thank you much!

 

[luvgen4.6]

My car: 2015 Genesis 3.8 AWD Ultimate.

I recently went over 100k miles and here’s my experience with what has gone wrong:

1. 20-30mph flutter was fixed at dealership while still under the 60k mike warranty.
2. The amber bulbs kept burning out so I replaced them with LEDs.
3. Passenger side 12v socket went out on me.
4. The sunroof creaks and sometimes doesn’t close unless I give it a push.
5. Changed all four tires. One tire was worn much worse than the other three. Haven’t had issues with that since . *I know it’s maintenance and not something wrong with the car. Just wanted to mention it.

That’s it! As of now, my car has been great and is still running smoothly. I’m diligent about cleaning the car (both inside and out) and doing all the maintenance required. I do my oil changes at Walmart because I ran out of dealer oil changes. Note: if you do your oil changes at Walmart, you need to take your own oil filter which you can find at AutoZone for about $8.

If you have questions, hit me up!

Hi, Please explain more about fluttering? is it more of a rumble or noise or both? I have 2012 4.6 150k miles and ever since I potential put a tad bit too much oil it started flutter between 20-30 mph only. adjusted oil level and it helped but didnt resolve. mine is more of a rumble/fluttering. If similar, how did dealer fix it? cost? did they say it was common problem? thanks a lot!

 

[joegr]

Hi, Please explain more about fluttering? is it more of a rumble or noise or both? I have 2012 4.6 150k miles and ever since I potential put a tad bit too much oil it started flutter between 20-30 mph only. adjusted oil level and it helped but didnt resolve. mine is more of a rumble/fluttering. If similar, how did dealer fix it? cost? did they say it was common problem? thanks a lot!

I assume you are talking about engine oil? How much too much? I doubt that a quart or less over would cause any issues, as long as you didn't drive a lot on extreme slopes.
I believe (haven't experienced it myself) that the "flutter" problem is related to the driveshaft, which has no direct connection to the engine (there's the transmission between the two).

 

[G-518665]

I assume you are talking about engine oil? How much too much? I doubt that a quart or less over would cause any issues, as long as you didn't drive a lot on extreme slopes.
I believe (haven't experienced it myself) that the "flutter" problem is related to the driveshaft, which has no direct connection to the engine (there's the transmission between the two).

Yes engine oil. whoa great info thanks. I only had to assume it was oil level connection cause it seem to happen right after oil change. It was much over, either way I had let some out and it didnt resolve it.. oh man, driveshaft sounds like money!

 

[luvgen4.6]

I assume you are talking about engine oil? How much too much? I doubt that a quart or less over would cause any issues, as long as you didn't drive a lot on extreme slopes.
I believe (haven't experienced it myself) that the "flutter" problem is related to the driveshaft, which has no direct connection to the engine (there's the transmission between the two).

Yes engine oil. I doubt it is the oil level as well. it was just right after oil change so I assumed.. it sounds like coming from engine bay, sounds could be traveling! only between 20-30mph.. Is there a front driveshaft? thanks

 

[joegr]

Yes engine oil. I doubt it is the oil level as well. it was just right after oil change so I assumed.. it sounds like coming from engine bay, sounds could be traveling! only between 20-30mph.. Is there a front driveshaft? thanks

Only if it is AWD.