'12 CPO non RSpec 5.0 - advice?

[EXBMWGUY]

Remember in town you could get as little as 12mpg..

WowCool - not even close. If you never leave a construction zone, drive uphill all day with a stuck front caliper, perhaps as low as 12. More likely 15-16 under the worst of metro gridlock driving.

 

[P4D]

Any other thoughts on the price? What should the current map software be?

 

[GenesisCaptain]

You know your market and the cars you have looked at. That sounds like a very good price. It is lower than what I have seen in Georgia for comparable cars. There is no way that a franchise dealer will sell that car below $30K. They don't need to.

 

[DRS]

KBB has this for CPO at 34k retail, and 32k private sale. A rough starting point.

 

[brfatal]

Really, price is over by that much? There are two other non R-Spec 5.0 around here. One has 10k miles ans is at $35k from an independent lot. The other is at a dealer and that dealer won't move off of $38k, plus ttl (only has 5k miles). Help me understand how to value these cars the right way, please.

I paid $37.5 out the door for an R-Spec w/ 6k miles. Certified.

WowCool - not even close. If you never leave a construction zone, drive uphill all day with a stuck front caliper, perhaps as low as 12. More likely 15-16 under the worst of metro gridlock driving.

I get 15-16 w/ no gridlock, just normal (for me) mixed street/highway driving. I would say 12 might be accurate if he includes a good dose of traffic.

 

[GenesisCaptain]

Is this the car? If so, it looks like a winner. It looks like the cheapest comparable alternative within 50 miles is $35K.

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=345280928

http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistor...er_id=66051585&car_id=345280928&partner=ATD_U

 

[P4D]

Is this the car? If so, it looks like a winner. It looks like the cheapest comparable alternative within 50 miles is $35K.

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=345280928

http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistor...er_id=66051585&car_id=345280928&partner=ATD_U

That is the one. I have been asking for the inspection report for a week, and they finally shared it with me. 10mm left on brakes, 5/32 left on tires with minimal cross wear showing alignment might be needed. Ugh.

 

[Fast55]

I've owned a lot of cars, trucks, bikes, and a few boats/watercraft over the years. What I've come to realize is that I have regretted buying that certain something I wanted based on price a couple of times, but waiting for "the best deal" has cost me the experience and fun of owning several others. Especially in the case of something that you may never find again, if you want it, go get it.

 

[P4D]

I'm not really waiting for the "best deal", but having a big repair bill by Christmas for tires and brakes doesn't sound like a "good deal".

 

[Fast55]

10 mm of brakes and 5/32" of tires means thousands of miles to go or it couldn't be a CPO car. Brakes and tires are easy to find and aren't that expensive regardless, but if you're not feeling it, move on.

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[P4D]

So, you think I'm overreacting to $1k+ in quickly arriving repair costs of the CPO?

 

[Epiphany]

So, you think I'm overreacting to $1k+ in quickly arriving repair costs of the CPO?

Yes and no. If you can pick one up in similar shape, similar or less miles for $1000 more and not have to worry about brakes or tires then yes. But if you're saving a few thousand this may be worth it. 10mm of brakes will last you quite a while, 5mm of tires will last at least a season or two.

 

[shagnat]

So, you think I'm overreacting to $1k+ in quickly arriving repair costs of the CPO?

You can drive yourself nuts with all this thinking. Honestly. I understand where you're coming from, but, if you like the car, just buy it and don't second guess yourself. Otherwise just leave it alone and find something else. There's no perfect deal or car, after all a "good deal" is nothing more than a state of mind.

 

[DRS]

Appearance looks like a good deal... And CPO.. Get extended full coverage bumper to bumper warranty from Hyundai, and I would be good to go. If you are down south, no snow, those tires will last you awhile. If Hyundai has the records of service, and that looks good.. Go for it. It is hard to romp these to destruction. Lots of nanny controls on engine and transmission. You have all the Genesis logos on it already. As CPO, they should have done the oil, air and cabin air filters. Check those.

See if they will get you the latest GPS and DIS firmware update. I hear that the Latest GPS update is due out in October. Get a promise in writing to get that done for free when that comes out.

In reality, if this was a 2011 build date and put in service back then, not too much mileage for a 2012. We are really 2014 now.

You should be good to go.

 

[GenesisCaptain]

10mm on the brake pads is almost new. 5/32 on the tires is approaching end-of-life. Tires are legally worn out at 2/32, but many people consider 3/32 to 4/32 as done. They probably started at 10/32 or 11/32, so they are on the order of 30% - 35% remaining life.

5/32 may be the minimum allowable depth under the CPO program. So, if it really bothers you, measure them yourself. Maybe you can find one or two at 4/32. Or, maybe you could ask the dealer to replace them since they are looking worn.

But here is the most important thing: a good set of new OE tires will cost you about $1K. So, add $1K to the price of the car. Is that still a good value to you overall? If so, then buy the car. If not, then keep looking. If getting that cost financed is important, then get the dealer to replace them and roll it into the cost of the car.

 

[Crusty Old Shellback]

30 K miles is a little high for 16 months. I've got 25K at 24 months. But I was out of town for 8 months last year and we have 3 other vechicles to drive. So may be it's not that bad. Average is usually 15K a year.

My tires were worn out at 20K and I spent $1200 on a good set of tires.

Other than that, it does sound like a good deal. Talk to them about the tires and the extended warrenty and see where it goes.

 

[Fast55]

So, you think I'm overreacting to $1k+ in quickly arriving repair costs of the CPO?

Not trying to split hairs here, but replacing tires isn't a repair. As suggested, you may be able to get the dealer to bite on a new set for the CPO, but I'd factor in the cost of a new set if not. You can get the brand, type, and plus size if you want. As for the brakes, that much pad should go many thousands of miles more even if you're pretty hard on them, so I'm not sure how quickly any of this will hit your pocket. Have the dealer quote you a price on new pads and rotor surfacing and then go for it,,,,,,,,,,,,,or not.

 

[lncaylor]

So, you think I'm overreacting to $1k+ in quickly arriving repair costs of the CPO?

If your car has the Michelin Energy OEM tires, they had 9.5/32 of tread when new which means they have 30 to 40% tread left. If they are the originals they could last another 10-15k.

10mm pad thickness is probably about what they were new. So no brake work necessary for many years.

 

[Crusty Old Shellback]

Just got the R back from a dealer oil change. I noticed on their report that they inspect the break pads. they have a green/yellow/red meter on it. They don't consider the brake pads wore out until 3 mm. So your good to go.

And yes 10 mm looks to be the max on their meter. After 25K miles, my fronts are down to 8 mm and the rears are at 6 mm. But I drive and brake hard sometimes while playing.

 

[Cato]

I bought a 2012 5.0 non R-SPEC brand new in January 2013 for $36,000 plus T,T,T, with the dealer agreeing to update the GPS with the NEXT available update which will be the one that comes out this Oct. I love this car and it seems to be on par or above my expectations in every way so far. I highly recommend the 5.0 NON R-SPEC. A better value in a large car will not be found!