2009 sedan battery draining can't start with new battery car completely dead

[joev]

have read all on website concerning dead batteries on 2009 sedan . Checked all replies car still completely dead anyone out there with a suggestion?

 

[Gunkk]

Presuming your issue is battery drain, not a "dead car"...

There's a little rubber bumper under the hood for the contact switch that triggers the security system. If it falls off it will keep the security circuit alive and kill the battery in a couple days.

There was a TSB on it ... had it done on my '09 after this exact thing got me stuck at the airport.

Some useful pics:

 

[mikec]

Any lights at all - on instrument panel, overhead interior lights, anything? Power door locks - do they try to work at all? I'm just trying to get some details on the problem - is it everything, the engine, etc.?

Totally drained batteries, loose battery clamps, and poor ground cable attachments typically result in "nothing works" type of symptoms. Some stuff working, some stuff not working, usually isn't the battery and battery cables... for example.

mike c.

 

[joev]

Ihave gone through the car front to back . All connections tightened battery cable inspected. This is the third battery in three years . I will admit that when I noticed the security light not flashing I and a friend attempted to jump the car because I had driven it several days prior and the prior battery was only a year old. Anyway, in jumping the cable was hooked up incorrectly and I did not realized that until a buzzer or beeping sound signaled that and the cables were then put on correctly to try again without success. I then went and got a new battery hooked it up but nothing , no lites , no nothing., dead as a door nail.

 

[EdP]

Anyway, in jumping the cable was hooked up incorrectly and I did not realized that until a buzzer or beeping sound signaled that and the cables were then put on correctly to try again without success.

Ooooooohhhhh, that may have caused a problem. Check for a blown fuse or possibly a fuseable link.

 

[Mr. Incredible]

In the 2018 there is a main fuseable link in the fuse box under the steering column, there is a main fuse there that shuts everything down.

i suspect your vehicle might have the same, and the incorrect jumper attachment tripped it.

 

[Sjennings0330]

Presuming your issue is battery drain, not a "dead car"...

There's a little rubber bumper under the hood for the contact switch that triggers the security system. If it falls off it will keep the security circuit alive and kill the battery in a couple days.

There was a TSB on it ... had it done on my '09 after this exact thing got me stuck at the airport.

Some useful pics:
View attachment 23823View attachment 23824

Hello- I am having a similar issue I believe. I am not a car girl. Just bought this car (it’s my first used car, paid cash.. thanks Dave Ramsey!) and it’s 09 3.8L 110,000. Bought from a sketchy guy. Think it’s been wrecked in the front. But I replaced the battery after trying to test drive and it wouldn’t, and then let its sit in my driveway for a week before trying again. Finally got it to a shop and had the battery changed. Was fine and then realized the oil change sticker on the car was from 2018, and kept it in the driveway until I could take it to get the oil changed... went to unlock it today and it’s dead again. Haven’t tried charging the battery but u see further review under the hood I’ve noticed the following:

- the Hood pole that holds the hood up is jammed up into the top of the car, and I can’t get it out.

- I am missing bolts that hold part of the stuff down (I told you I am not a car girl so I have Jon idea what it is!)

-and I think the rubber stop is too short.

my questions for you experts-
- will I have to replace the battery after I get the rubber stop replaced with the longer one, or can I just charge it and it will be fine?

- is there anyway to get that hood pole unjammed on my own?

- what kind of screws/bolts does this car take so I can replace them on my own?

- is it common for the switch That this rubber stopper engages with to be bad? Would that be the cause?

thank you SO much for any help you can give a girl! I appreciate it in advance!

 

[Mr. Incredible]

Hello- I am having a similar issue I believe. I am not a car girl. Just bought this car (it’s my first used car, paid cash.. thanks Dave Ramsey!) and it’s 09 3.8L 110,000. Bought from a sketchy guy. Think it’s been wrecked in the front. But I replaced the battery after trying to test drive and it wouldn’t, and then let its sit in my driveway for a week before trying again. Finally got it to a shop and had the battery changed. Was fine and then realized the oil change sticker on the car was from 2018, and kept it in the driveway until I could take it to get the oil changed... went to unlock it today and it’s dead again. Haven’t tried charging the battery but u see further review under the hood I’ve noticed the following:

- the Hood pole that holds the hood up is jammed up into the top of the car, and I can’t get it out.

- I am missing bolts that hold part of the stuff down (I told you I am not a car girl so I have Jon idea what it is!)

-and I think the rubber stop is too short.

my questions for you experts-
- will I have to replace the battery after I get the rubber stop replaced with the longer one, or can I just charge it and it will be fine?

- is there anyway to get that hood pole unjammed on my own?

- what kind of screws/bolts does this car take so I can replace them on my own?

- is it common for the switch That this rubber stopper engages with to be bad? Would that be the cause?

thank you SO much for any help you can give a girl! I appreciate it in advance!

what bolts do you think are missing, those images don't show any missing that I can see.

the rubber bump stop is adjustable, turn it to make it longer or shorter.

what do you mean the hood pole is jammed, you have to lift the hood to remove it after you have placed it in the hole and the hood is resting on it.

did you place it in the correct hole? do you have an image?

 

[Sjennings0330]

what bolts do you think are missing, those images don't show any missing that I can see.

the rubber bump stop is adjustable, turn it to make it longer or shorter.

what do you mean the hood pole is jammed, you have to lift the hood to remove it after you have placed it in the hole and the hood is resting on it.

did you place it in the correct hole? do you have an image?

I just saw there was no rubber stopper at all, so I’m assuming that’s the issue. I’ll order a part. But will I need to replace the battery, or will it be okay once I charge it? If all it needs is a charge how long should I leave it hooked up?

so the hood pole cant even be pulled out. Assuming I tried the right pole?

hopefully these pics help you see where I’m missing screws/bolts whatever. Lol.
Thank you!

 

[Sjennings0330]

I just saw there was no rubber stopper at all, so I’m assuming that’s the issue. I’ll order a part. But will I need to replace the battery, or will it be okay once I charge it? If all it needs is a charge how long should I leave it hooked up?

so the hood pole cant even be pulled out. Assuming I tried the right pole?

hopefully these pics help you see where I’m missing screws/bolts whatever. Lol.
Thank you! View attachment 28060View attachment 28061View attachment 28062View attachment 28063View attachment 28064

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[jimmy buoy]

I just replaced the hood support strut on my 2010. The old one like yours was falling off once the hood was shut. Once off, it fully extends and gets wedged under the metal lip on the wall between the engine and car. You should be able to compress it by grabbing the end that fell off and pulling it towards the front of the car while lifting upwards to clear the metal lip. That end is meant to fit on the little "ball" on the underside of your hood (visible on your photos). In my case, the strut was shot and not able to lift the hood (and I think the clip that holds the strut to the "ball" was also buggered. Bought a new pair via the internet for $20. You just need one, but keep the other as a spare. They just click in without the need for any special tools - just a small screwdriver. Here's the link I used.

Amazon.com: Qty(2) BOXI Hood Lift Supports Struts Shocks Dampers for Hyundai Genesis 2009-2014 Sedan Hood 6673,81161-3M000: Automotive

 

[Sjennings0330]

I just replaced the hood support strut on my 2010. The old one like yours was falling off once the hood was shut. Once off, it fully extends and gets wedged under the metal lip on the wall between the engine and car. You should be able to compress it by grabbing the end that fell off and pulling it towards the front of the car while lifting upwards to clear the metal lip. That end is meant to fit on the little "ball" on the underside of your hood (visible on your photos). In my case, the strut was shot and not able to lift the hood (and I think the clip that holds the strut to the "ball" was also buggered. Bought a new pair via the internet for $20. You just need one, but keep the other as a spare. They just click in without the need for any special tools - just a small screwdriver. Here's the link I used.

Amazon.com: Qty(2) BOXI Hood Lift Supports Struts Shocks Dampers for Hyundai Genesis 2009-2014 Sedan Hood 6673,81161-3M000: Automotive

You rock Jimmy! Thank you so much!!!

 

[jimmy buoy]

Glad to help!

Regarding your battery situation. I would be reluctant to replace it until having the problem fixed or you may just kill a the battery. I'm unfamiliar with the alarm button on the underside of the hood, but it sounds like one way to see if the alarm is the issue is to lock the car and see if the little red light on the dash is flashing like normal. I see mine flashing every few seconds through the windshield on the driver's side so I assume it's armed. No flash might mean an issue with the alarm that apparently can drain the battery. I'd try charging the battery first. It's in the trunk and you'll have to open the + side's plastic cover to get at the terminal. It might be a good idea to remove the negative connection from the battery before connecting a charger to remove the car's wiring from the equation.

You have a few little plastic trim "push pins" missing under the hood which isn't a big deal. If you want to replace them there are lots of places online that sell them in bulk. I bought a pack of various sizes fairly cheap. The "stealer-ship" will of course over charge and try and sell them individually. It also looks like there is a bolt missing on your air cleaner box. Again, not a big deal, but you could remove another one from the box, take it to your local fastner store and get another identical bolt.

 

[Sjennings0330]

Glad to help!

Regarding your battery situation. I would be reluctant to replace it until having the problem fixed or you may just kill a the battery. I'm unfamiliar with the alarm button on the underside of the hood, but it sounds like one way to see if the alarm is the issue is to lock the car and see if the little red light on the dash is flashing like normal. I see mine flashing every few seconds through the windshield on the driver's side so I assume it's armed. No flash might mean an issue with the alarm that apparently can drain the battery. I'd try charging the battery first. It's in the trunk and you'll have to open the + side's plastic cover to get at the terminal. It might be a good idea to remove the negative connection from the battery before connecting a charger to remove the car's wiring from the equation.

You have a few little plastic trim "push pins" missing under the hood which isn't a big deal. If you want to replace them there are lots of places online that sell them in bulk. I bought a pack of various sizes fairly cheap. The "stealer-ship" will of course over charge and try and sell them individually. It also looks like there is a bolt missing on your air cleaner box. Again, not a big deal, but you could remove another one from the box, take it to your local fastner store and get another identical bolt.

Thank you so much! I don’t have any lights on at all. I’ll try getting those bolts and the rubber stopper for the hood. Appreciate your help sir!

 

[Gunkk]

The alarm will confirm arming on double-press with the fob lock button (light flash, horn honk or beep). If it doesn't then one of the door sensors or hood sensor is showing ajarr. Your hood alarm button seems to be the correct one and sensor looks to be in the correct spot (you can test it by dusting the stopper with a bit talc or powdered makeup to see if and where it contacts the switch). Yes I do see very clean paint and plastics and several missing fasteners so the front end may indeed have been reconstructed, or someone took a LOT of time cleaning up that engine bay to be as clean as or cleaner than factory new. My '09 and '12 never looked that good and my prize winning show car Camaro doesn't either

IMO it would be best to have the car checked out by a competent local mechanic who has experience with Hyundai (many do these days). Dealers can do this but will usually charge big $$$. Ask around and quote rates for diagnostic fees (if any) and $/hr labor rates. Recommendations from FB never hurt either.

One thing a dealer service writer may do for free is if you take your VIN to them and ask nicely for a service history. They may give it to you. Worked on my '12 since my car was serviced by the local dealer. Didn't work on my daughter's car which is older and wasn't serviced at a dealer within a couple years (they purge the records after some time apparently, or the service writer lied to me) Maybe it will help, maybe not. Don't mention all the trouble with the car until AFTER you get the report

Good luck!