2012-2014 Genesis Sedan Pesky P0442!!! Help!!

[Ambush]

Guys,

It has been awhile since I have posted. I have not been driving my genny too much but I have done some good ole 210k mile maint but I keep getting this (insert cussword here) P0442 Small EVAP leak found. I have ordered a new gas cap at the dealer, Canister replaced (removed from a salvaged Genesis with less miles), tank purge sensor replaced, purge valve (in the engine replaced), and PCV. I erase the code but after less than 20 miles the damn thing comes back on!!! In drive at stop lights, it idles SOOOO rough or vibrates if you will. In neutral it is fine (i think that is transmission mount??). I do not know what to do. Dealer wants $100 for diagnosis fee and will deduct that from the price of repair.
I have seen other Hyundai's with this aggravating DTC and I dont know how to fix this!!!!

Please help.

--Ambush

 

[Gunkk]

You've already done everything right so far, probably. Now pay the $100 for the diagnosis and fix the car.

 

[Ambush]

You've already done everything right so far, probably. Now pay the $100 for the diagnosis and fix the car.

i really hate dealers...they will prob lie and say I need injectors (which I replaced a few weeks ago along with the valve cover gaskets myself). I will call around. If I find a solution I will share.
thanks

 

[jep604]

The dealer (near my work) where I purchased my car as well as the closet dealer to my home charge $ 140.00 for diagnostic testing so you might be getting a better deal. Going back to your last comment, when you replaced the injectors you said you replaced the valve cover gaskets, did you mean intake gaskets? You may solved your issue. The engine runs rough under a load when warming up but better while in neutral or park. Leak at mating face leaking/drawing too much air.

 

[Ambush]

The dealer (near my work) where I purchased my car as well as the closet dealer to my home charge $ 140.00 for diagnostic testing so you might be getting a better deal. Going back to your last comment, when you replaced the injectors you said you replaced the valve cover gaskets, did you mean intake gaskets? You may solved your issue. The engine runs rough under a load when warming up but better while in neutral or park. Leak at mating face leaking/drawing too much air.

Hi
Yes there was an oil leak on the driver's side valve cover so I went ahead and replaced both sides. They were hard and brittle (broke into pieces as soon as I touched it). The injectors were changed because I had hesitation really bad while driving and once the car just shut off on the interstate with no warning. There was a strong gas smell in the engine as well (thanks GDI engine!!).
After erasing the code, after about 20 miles it will come right back on. I do smell a slight smell of gas in the cabin but nothing compared to before. Small evap leak. Such a robotic code.
Sigh. I will call the dealer and see how many lies they will give me.

Thanks!

 

[jep604]

Hi
Yes there was an oil leak on the driver's side valve cover so I went ahead and replaced both sides. They were hard and brittle (broke into pieces as soon as I touched it). The injectors were changed because I had hesitation really bad while driving and once the car just shut off on the interstate with no warning. There was a strong gas smell in the engine as well (thanks GDI engine!!).
After erasing the code, after about 20 miles it will come right back on. I do smell a slight smell of gas in the cabin but nothing compared to before. Small evap leak. Such a robotic code.
Sigh. I will call the dealer and see how many lies they will give me.

Thanks!

If I were you, check out YouTube and type in P0442 Hyundai 3.8, it might shed some light.

 

[gokeegsgo]

Hi
Yes there was an oil leak on the driver's side valve cover so I went ahead and replaced both sides. They were hard and brittle (broke into pieces as soon as I touched it). The injectors were changed because I had hesitation really bad while driving and once the car just shut off on the interstate with no warning. There was a strong gas Is Premium Gas Worth It: Expert Tips On Gas Types| Blog EpicVIN smell in the engine as well (thanks GDI engine!!).
After erasing the code, after about 20 miles it will come right back on. I do smell a slight smell of gas in the cabin but nothing compared to before. Small evap leak. Such a robotic code.
Sigh. I will call the dealer and see how many lies they will give me.

Thanks!

I'm afraid you will hear different lies, I also had awful experience contacting my local dealer

 

[Ambush]

UPDATE:
Good news*
Replaced the FTPS (Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor), FLS (Fuel Level Sensor - in the engine bay), and the CCV (Canister Close Valve). I reset the code and have driven about 20 miles, no check engine light! I cannot believe it! By now the light usually comes back on.
Cost for all parts is about $40. How you say? I found a wrecked low mileage one which had these parts replaced (I could tell as they had made in China on them). So far the car idles much better than before. More HP and smoothness on the interstate.

Kinda bad news*
I still smell gas after a fill up. Maybe I need to change the canister filter? I did notice the High Pressure fuel pump (engine bay) was kind of wet around the sponge. I replaced that with a new one last year. I drove around town yesterday and as I was taking off from the light, the damn car just shut off. It seems like fuel related to me. No check engine light at all though.

I hope this helps someone else who is experiencing this as well.

Thanks
Ambush

 

[jep604]

UPDATE:
Good news*
Replaced the FTPS (Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor), FLS (Fuel Level Sensor - in the engine bay), and the CCV (Canister Close Valve). I reset the code and have driven about 20 miles, no check engine light! I cannot believe it! By now the light usually comes back on.
Cost for all parts is about $40. How you say? I found a wrecked low mileage one which had these parts replaced (I could tell as they had made in China on them). So far the car idles much better than before. More HP and smoothness on the interstate.

Kinda bad news*
I still smell gas after a fill up. Maybe I need to change the canister filter? I did notice the High Pressure fuel pump (engine bay) was kind of wet around the sponge. I replaced that with a new one last year. I drove around town yesterday and as I was taking off from the light, the damn car just shut off. It seems like fuel related to me. No check engine light at all though.

I hope this helps someone else who is experiencing this as well.

Thanks
Ambush

Wondering if I am 27K miles away from this issue? I've priced the fuel pump/filter assemblies and they are expensive but after 9 years and 202K hard driven miles, it might be an easy solution. I run Lucas fuel treatment every 3rd fuel fill-up.

 

[Ambush]

Wondering if I am 27K miles away from this issue? I've priced the fuel pump/filter assemblies and they are expensive but after 9 years and 202K hard driven miles, it might be an easy solution. I run Lucas fuel treatment every 3rd fuel fill-up.

Preventive maint I would say.
So far, I have had ZERO check engine lights and the car IDLES 10000% better. Have I cured my issue for less than what a diagnosis fee would be?

I use any fuel cleaner with PEA (Techron, GUMOUT, Royal Purple, etc...) in it. It a huge helper for GDI engines.

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[jep604]

Last year I had a check engine light about 40 miles after filling up at a place where fuel is the cheapest. It stayed on for 67 miles and 3 engine "stop starts"(running errands). Went out and hasn't come back on. Posted about it and some of the members stated it might the fuel quality at the "cheap place"(haven't been back there since) or the fuel cap? Noticing lately when I put the fuel cap on, it doesn't "Click" when tight like it did for the first 8 years of ownership. I tighten it as much as possible and barely loosen and it springs back like it's tight. No issues with it or a CEL recently.