2012 genesis sedan 3.8 intermittent stalling!! dangerous

[hov818]

hello everyone this has happened 3 times and guess its a common issue no dealership has had to replicate and sooner then later gonna cause a bad accident.. while coming to a slow/stop at a red light or to make a turn, steering wheel will seize up and get hard to control along with brake pedal, then the engine will stall but electronics will work (radio, ac, etc)... all the dashboard lights illuminate, have to put car in park, and always restart right away no problem and gets me home. Has happened 3 times.. battery has been replaced, terminals checked.. mileage is 60k. Always a hot day, and AC on full blast along with music bumping. Any advice? 2012 genesis 3.8 v6 sedan thank you! I have not went to a dealer yet because a. I have no warranty (bought it preowned from craigslist), b. alot of people with warranties claiming reoccurent visits have not fixed the issue.. ive read people mention fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, ignition switch, etc.

 

[G-849077]

Same problem with 2013

 

[hov818]

Same problem with 2013

please open a claim with nthsa, I am going to replace the crank sensor over the weekend with an oem part hopefully it does it! doesnt even throw out codes!!

 

[Calivice]

hello everyone this has happened 3 times and guess its a common issue no dealership has had to replicate and sooner then later gonna cause a bad accident.. while coming to a slow/stop at a red light or to make a turn, steering wheel will seize up and get hard to control along with brake pedal, then the engine will stall but electronics will work (radio, ac, etc)... all the dashboard lights illuminate, have to put car in park, and always restart right away no problem and gets me home. Has happened 3 times.. battery has been replaced, terminals checked.. mileage is 60k. Always a hot day, and AC on full blast along with music bumping. Any advice? 2012 genesis 3.8 v6 sedan thank you! I have not went to a dealer yet because a. I have no warranty (bought it preowned from craigslist), b. alot of people with warranties claiming reoccurent visits have not fixed the issue.. ive read people mention fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, ignition switch, etc.

Same thing happened to me. I was told it was the fuel pump. Replaced that and the car was good for 3 days than started shaking and turned off at a red light. Now I don’t know what it is no engine light has came on. Once it did come on and an 02 sensor code popped up is that what would cause this to happen? Mine is the 4.6 liter V8.

 

[hov818]

Same thing happened to me. I was told it was the fuel pump. Replaced that and the car was good for 3 days than started shaking and turned off at a red light. Now I don’t know what it is no engine light has came on. Once it did come on and an 02 sensor code popped up is that what would cause this to happen? Mine is the 4.6 liter V8.

alot of people pointed to crankshaft sensor replacing it this weekend. will let you know how it goes

 

[Cali Gen]

crazy never heard of this issue till now

 

[aryc]

Hello, what happened with this thread? Was it the crankshaft sensor? This has happened to my daughter twice already. Second time, the battery seems to be dead too.
(2010 4.6)

 

[mikec]

I had intermittent stalling issues on my 2009 4.6 a couple years ago. It would stall once or twice as I slowed for a red light or stop sign. It would do it right around 5 minutes after a stone-cold engine start; after 10 minutes it was fine. Sometimes error codes, such as random misfires on different cylinders, would occur along with the check engine light. The dealer couldn't figure it out as it would not act up for them whenever they had their detailed scan tool connected. They re-seated all electrical connections under the hood and at the battery; the problem seemed cured for a few months. When the problem came back it was much worse. Stalled at any time now... I limped it home; as I backed it into the garage it was belching black smoke out the tailpipes. That made me think "engine is running horribly rich" - way too much gas as if a fuel injector was sticking OPEN, flooding the engine. Got it flat-bed towed to the dealer. The dealer tried connecting to the OBD-II port to read error codes and could not get communication with the main engine computer. They replaced the computer... too bad it was long after the warranty so it cost a pretty penny. But that has been the fix; it's been almost two years now with no hint of stalling.

If the dealer does replace the "PCM" as Hyundai calls the computer, make sure the dealer applies all TSBs and recalls for software updates. The replacement PCMs typically have the original software load, not the most current.

The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) was suggested as a problem on my car; wiggling the wires to it while the engine idled seemed to - sometimes - make it stutter a little but not stall. That was replaced... nope, engine still stalled. The PCM only tests the sensor while trying to start the engine: if the PCM doesn't "see" CPS pulses for 2 seconds (something like that) while the starter motor is running, the PCM decides it is bad and sets the appropriate OBD-II code. If the sensor fails after the engine has started however no code is set... so intermittent CPS problems (or failing wiring) would typically do not set OBD-II error codes. It would not be difficult to detect however by comparing to camshaft position sensor data: if the PCM "sees" camshaft pulses but no CPS pulses then it should know the CPS is kaput.

mike c.

 

[G-809011]

I had intermittent stalling issues on my 2009 4.6 a couple years ago. It would stall once or twice as I slowed for a red light or stop sign. It would do it right around 5 minutes after a stone-cold engine start; after 10 minutes it was fine. Sometimes error codes, such as random misfires on different cylinders, would occur along with the check engine light. The dealer couldn't figure it out as it would not act up for them whenever they had their detailed scan tool connected. They re-seated all electrical connections under the hood and at the battery; the problem seemed cured for a few months. When the problem came back it was much worse. Stalled at any time now... I limped it home; as I backed it into the garage it was belching black smoke out the tailpipes. That made me think "engine is running horribly rich" - way too much gas as if a fuel injector was sticking OPEN, flooding the engine. Got it flat-bed towed to the dealer. The dealer tried connecting to the OBD-II port to read error codes and could not get communication with the main engine computer. They replaced the computer... too bad it was long after the warranty so it cost a pretty penny. But that has been the fix; it's been almost two years now with no hint of stalling.

If the dealer does replace the "PCM" as Hyundai calls the computer, make sure the dealer applies all TSBs and recalls for software updates. The replacement PCMs typically have the original software load, not the most current.

The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) was suggested as a problem on my car; wiggling the wires to it while the engine idled seemed to - sometimes - make it stutter a little but not stall. That was replaced... nope, engine still stalled. The PCM only tests the sensor while trying to start the engine: if the PCM doesn't "see" CPS pulses for 2 seconds (something like that) while the starter motor is running, the PCM decides it is bad and sets the appropriate OBD-II code. If the sensor fails after the engine has started however no code is set... so intermittent CPS problems (or failing wiring) would typically do not set OBD-II error codes. It would not be difficult to detect however by comparing to camshaft position sensor data: if the PCM "sees" camshaft pulses but no CPS pulses then it should know the CPS is kaput.

mike c.

Thanks a million, Mike. Had it towed to the dealer. I guess I will suggest it to them. Bracing for the financial shock. Dealers seem to be pretty heavy-handed in this neck of the woods. My daughter was scared to drive the car after it happened the first time, and I have been scared for her, so this is very much appreciated.
Ary

 

[aryc]

Mike, that's very helpful, thanks so much! Had the car towed to the dealer--they were going to look at it tomorrow. I guess I will alert them to this possibility--bracing for the financial shock, as dealers in my neck of the woods all seem to be heavy handed. My daughter was afraid to drive the car after it stalled the first time, and I guess I was somewhat nervous about her driving the car. So this is much appreciated. God bless.
ary c.

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[user0209]

I had intermittent stalling issues on my 2009 4.6 a couple years ago. It would stall once or twice as I slowed for a red light or stop sign. It would do it right around 5 minutes after a stone-cold engine start; after 10 minutes it was fine. Sometimes error codes, such as random misfires on different cylinders, would occur along with the check engine light. The dealer couldn't figure it out as it would not act up for them whenever they had their detailed scan tool connected. They re-seated all electrical connections under the hood and at the battery; the problem seemed cured for a few months. When the problem came back it was much worse. Stalled at any time now... I limped it home; as I backed it into the garage it was belching black smoke out the tailpipes. That made me think "engine is running horribly rich" - way too much gas as if a fuel injector was sticking OPEN, flooding the engine. Got it flat-bed towed to the dealer. The dealer tried connecting to the OBD-II port to read error codes and could not get communication with the main engine computer. They replaced the computer... too bad it was long after the warranty so it cost a pretty penny. But that has been the fix; it's been almost two years now with no hint of stalling.

If the dealer does replace the "PCM" as Hyundai calls the computer, make sure the dealer applies all TSBs and recalls for software updates. The replacement PCMs typically have the original software load, not the most current.

The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) was suggested as a problem on my car; wiggling the wires to it while the engine idled seemed to - sometimes - make it stutter a little but not stall. That was replaced... nope, engine still stalled. The PCM only tests the sensor while trying to start the engine: if the PCM doesn't "see" CPS pulses for 2 seconds (something like that) while the starter motor is running, the PCM decides it is bad and sets the appropriate OBD-II code. If the sensor fails after the engine has started however no code is set... so intermittent CPS problems (or failing wiring) would typically do not set OBD-II error codes. It would not be difficult to detect however by comparing to camshaft position sensor data: if the PCM "sees" camshaft pulses but no CPS pulses then it should know the CPS is kaput.

mike c.

My 2012 Genny starts up fine, runs fine. Feels pretty solid, however it wouldn't get EGR monitor complete. Extensive research and a trip to a shop told me the computer couldn't monitor some camshaft or engine part 100% correctly!!! But this defies logics given how nice the car starts and runs.

So, I start to suspect the computer part!!!!! My question is what is the cost of replacing the computer which you have gone through. Would you share?

Is it fragile, a headache to have a new computer working with old parts/engine?

Thanks

 

[mikec]

The PCM itself cost $1611. Physical replacement takes only a few minutes - it's easy to get to. But it then has to be programmed with the vehicle VIN I believe... so the whole thing is probably charged at an hour shop time. I had a bunch of other stuff done during this shop visit so I can't break it down any finer than that.

EGR monitors: a common issue on 2009s... and on several Hyundai/Kia vehicles of that time frame. There is no "EGR valve" on the V8 nor the V6; the camshaft variable valve timing is used to implement exhaust gas recirculation. Very specific driving conditions are necessary to make the EGR monitor read "ready." Those tests involve some accel/decel cycles and have proven difficult to do. There are other threads describing the procedure. I don't know if the dealer did anything special after re-programming my PCM (with the latest software versions) regarding the EGR monitor; everything was okay/ready when my next smog check came due about a year after the repair. My normal driving style was enough I think. I'm not a lead foot driver but I do let the V8 strut its stuff now and then. Accelerating onto freeways is when it gets the most throttle.

mike c.

 

[joshstall]

Mike, that's very helpful, thanks so much! Had the car towed to the dealer--they were going to look at it tomorrow. I guess I will alert them to this possibility--bracing for the financial shock, as dealers in my neck of the woods all seem to be heavy handed. My daughter was afraid to drive the car after it stalled the first time, and I guess I was somewhat nervous about her driving the car. So this is much appreciated. God bless.
ary c.

What did the dealer say? I am having a very similar issue.
Josh

 

[el dooderino]

alot of people pointed to crankshaft sensor replacing it this weekend. will let you know how it goes

Did you ever complete this replacement?

 

[aryc]

What did the dealer say? I am having a very similar issue.
Josh

Josh, sorry, never caught your question until now. Well, dealer said car needed new alternator and battery. This seemed to take care of the situation until a couple of weeks ago. Apparently the car stalled on my daughter yet again. And so she's too scare to drive it again. So it's back in our driveway, and we are back to square one on this issue, unfortunately.

 

[Gunkk]

Have them check the fuse block at the battery for hairline cracks.

 

[Carr.patrick87]

2009 3.8
Car died middrive in gear. Luckily put it in neutral and it started right back up. It’s been idling at 500 and the rpm’s dip down every 30 seconds or so and that’s when the engine stopped.

Check engine light has been on and two shops told me they won’t invest time figuring out the problem. the light indicates a cam system issue. And they each recommended taking it to a dealer.

Anyways I changed the crankshaft sensor and it didn’t fix the issue. I’m leaning towards replacing the computer now.