2013 Hyundai Genesis R-Spec Sedan EPB and Auto Hold

[Woody6977]

As you can see from my history I did own a 2012 R-spec 5.0 and put 189K miles on it before selling it. I like the car so much I purchased a 2013 5.0 R-Spec with 46K miles. I now have 78K miles on it. I drove the car last Thursday about 200 miles in below zero weather. On my last stop I parked and shut the car off. When I started it back up and put it into drive the Auto Hold and ESC lights cam on in the dash. Bother were Amber in color. Putting the car in drive the EPB was engaged. In the end I used the emergancy manual release in the trunk. How difficult is this to repair please? I watched a video on YouTube for a 2013 Genesis but I question that video as the car had drum brakes on the back. The R-Spec has over sized Rotors so I assume the EPB is also different.

 

[Gunkk]

Sourcing the part for an R&R will likely be the challenge here. Ebay seems to be a grand cheaper than the direct parts dealers.

from the 2012 4.6 manual. Pretty sure they're all the same (drum in hat).

 

[jep604]

As you can see from my history I did own a 2012 R-spec 5.0 and put 189K miles on it before selling it. I like the car so much I purchased a 2013 5.0 R-Spec with 46K miles. I now have 78K miles on it. I drove the car last Thursday about 200 miles in below zero weather. On my last stop I parked and shut the car off. When I started it back up and put it into drive the Auto Hold and ESC lights cam on in the dash. Bother were Amber in color. Putting the car in drive the EPB was engaged. In the end I used the emergancy manual release in the trunk. How difficult is this to repair please? I watched a video on YouTube for a 2013 Genesis but I question that video as the car had drum brakes on the back. The R-Spec has over sized Rotors so I assume the EPB is also different.

Is the EPB the emergency parking brake? My 2014 has the foot lever that engages and press harder to disengage. Did you set it while parking in the cold wx or did the rear brakes just lock from sitting in the cold wx?

 

[joegr]

Is the EPB the emergency parking brake? My 2014 has the foot lever that engages and press harder to disengage. ...

EPB (Electric Parking Brake) is both the emergency and the parking brake. It is applied by pulling an electrical switch up. It can be released by pushing the same switch down, but this is rarely done since it auto releases when you shift into gear.

 

[jep604]

EPB (Electric Parking Brake) is both the emergency and the parking brake. It is applied by pulling an electrical switch up. It can be released by pushing the same switch down, but this is rarely done since it auto releases when you shift into gear.

Thanks for the clarification joegr. I've seen these on other vehicles.

 

[fourthirteen]

When it’s that cold, moisture on the brake’s friction surfaces, either pad-to-drum or pad-to-disc, can freeze the items together when the car is parked, making it difficult for the brake to release. I try to remember not to apply mine when it’s really cold. I bet it works fine when the weather warms up.

 

[PMCErnie]

Is the EPB the emergency parking brake? My 2014 has the foot lever that engages and press harder to disengage. Did you set it while parking in the cold wx or did the rear brakes just lock from sitting in the cold wx?

The R-Spec and Tech Package models have electric parking brakes. The base and Premium Package models have foot operated parking brakes.

 

[Woody6977]

Thank you for all the replies. Big O looked at the car yesterday. The car is acting fine now. I tested the electric parking brake and it worked just fine no issues. It was suggested there may be an issue in my electrical with the auto hold system or that my battery was not fully charged. They fully charged my battery (it's new) everything seems fine now but only time will tell. Big O had an idea, if it does this again to unplug the motor from the caliper. That makes sense cuz that would basically disable the emergency parking brake and the auto hold soon as I don't use either of them, ever that should work. Your thoughts?

Last, my wife brought up a good point. The R-Spec uses oversized rotors and pads compared to standard. The last couple months when breaking she's feels like she's had to push the pedal to the floor almost to get the car to stop and I do believe she's correct. I just assumed that the brake pads were getting older seen as both the rotors and pads are 3 1/2 years old. But Big O says the pads are at a 5 ratting so about 30-40% pad left. Now the brakes stop with much less peddle.

 

[Woody6977]

Sourcing the part for an R&R will likely be the challenge here. Ebay seems to be a grand cheaper than the direct parts dealers.

from the 2012 4.6 manual. Pretty sure they're all the same (drum in hat).
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Thank you..... I am kind of at the loss right now... Big O

 

[Woody6977]

Thank you..... I am kind of at the loss right now... Big O

Big O Tires and Service. When I need minor repair work, tires, and brakes I take my cars there.

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Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[Woody6977]

EPB (Electric Parking Brake) is both the emergency and the parking brake. It is applied by pulling an electrical switch up. It can be released by pushing the same switch down, but this is rarely done since it auto releases when you shift into gear.

Joegr..... Based on your replies you seem to have extensive knowledge on this.... Today I received more bad news to the point I am questioning if the car will ever get fixed.... Since the last 2 posts the car locked up again Wednesday Morning. I had my wife pick me up and take me to work. The next morning I took her SUV and hoped the manual release would work. I fired up the car and put it into reverse. The car move so the EPB was release... BUT I had to push the brake peddle to the floor to stop... The Auto Hold and ESC lights were still on the dash. It was raining so extremely dangerous to drive. I had it towed to Bachman Hyundai Thursday. They pulled the codes this morning and then called me, the codes are saying failed ABS Control Module??? That makes no sense to me and then the service person tells me $3,500 for the part and $500 to put it in, and that may not fix the issue. What the crap!!!

I am not giving the dealer $4000 and it not fix my car.... Not sure where to go from here...

They are saying I need this part.... ABS Hydraulic Assembly - Hyundai (58920-3M3A6)

 

[Gunkk]

Pedal to the floor is typical of HECU failure when there are no other obvious signs of hydraulic failure elsewhere (i.e. fluid leaks, air in lines, low fluid, etc.). Ten years ago this was a $3k fix, so with inflation and depending on market it's quite possible that this is now a $4k fix. I have had two HECUs replaced (09 and the silver 12), both under warranty. Not looking forward to doing one on the white '12 but I already have a variable pedal now so it's coming.

This is a different issue and completely different system from the EPB, which is a different module in a different part of the car. Also not a cheap fix with the EPB part MSRP listing around $2k and a couple hrs labor. Ebay is about $1k cheaper for the EPB module.

 

[Woody6977]

Pedal to the floor is typical of HECU failure when there are no other obvious signs of hydraulic failure elsewhere (i.e. fluid leaks, air in lines, low fluid, etc.). Ten years ago this was a $3k fix, so with inflation and depending on market it's quite possible that this is now a $4k fix. I have had two HECUs replaced (09 and the silver 12), both under warranty. Not looking forward to doing one on the white '12 but I already have a variable pedal now so it's coming.

This is a different issue and completely different system from the EPB, which is a different module in a different part of the car. Also not a cheap fix with the EPB part MSRP listing around $2k and a couple hrs labor. Ebay is about $1k cheaper for the EPB module.

Thanks for the reply Gunkk... I found the HECU new on eBay for $1350. I also found two company's that rebuild them. One is $250 and the other is $300 with 90 day warranties. I watched a YouTube video, not easy to replace. You have to remove the engine bay fuse box as it's under it. Doesn't look like much room to work.

 

[Roc 5.0]

All of those are tied to the ABS module including cruise control. If ABS Module goes it disables the other systems, even though there is nothing wrong with the other systems.. Lucky you seem to have an ABS Module problem, not an unusual thing with the Genesis. The above remedies, new, rebuild or used are all options. Good brake shops about 2 hrs work R&R. May not want to go to Hyundia or Genesis shops with their extra high labor rate.

 

[Woody6977]

All of those are tied to the ABS module including cruise control. If ABS Module goes it disables the other systems, even though there is nothing wrong with the other systems.. Lucky you seem to have an ABS Module problem, not an unusual thing with the Genesis. The above remedies, new, rebuild or used are all options. Good brake shops about 2 hrs work R&R. May not want to go to Hyundia or Genesis shops with their extra high labor rate.

Agreed, my mistake was having car towed to Bachman Hyundai. It should be illegal to charge what they charge for parts.

ABS hydraulic control module:
Dealer = $3499
Hyundai Direct = $1350
Rebuilt = $250

Brake Master Cylinder:
Dealer = $895
Hyundai Direct = $350
New OEM = $75

 

[Gunkk]

Some of us old folks remember when "buying an import" meant that you were signing up for parts and service that would be scarce and expensive. Turns out it still does.

But I am glad that there is still a reasonably healthy aftermarket for our dozen-plus year old cars. Wasn't always the case with imports.

 

[Woody6977]

Just an update on this nightmare. The dealer has had my car for 16 days now. I have spent just over $2,000 as I was told the Master Cylinder was gummed up and will also need to be replaced. I purchased the rebuilt ABS module from iam-Motors. They have a 99.8% positive feedback on 17,980 reviews. They seem to be very knowledgeable and even spell out the replacement process.

- Before installing the new module flush out all brake oil, All 4 speed sensors and hub rings need to be cleaned, and finally you will need your abs system reset and calibrated with a proper scan tool.

The Hyundai dealership did not do the first step. Now the front right abs brake valve is stuck in a closed position and will not open. They of course are not taking any responsibility, saying the part is bad. It is possible they are correct. We will never know. I'm now stuck waiting for them to remove the rebuilt ABS module so I can send it back for RMA replacement. This is turning into a complete and total nightmare. They're going to end up with my car for 4 weeks and I'm going to end up spending close to $3,000....

 

[charlie1776]

Just an update on this nightmare. The dealer has had my car for 16 days now. I have spent just over $2,000 as I was told the Master Cylinder was gummed up and will also need to be replaced. I purchased the rebuilt ABS module from iam-Motors. They have a 99.8% positive feedback on 17,980 reviews. They seem to be very knowledgeable and even spell out the replacement process.

- Before installing the new module flush out all brake oil, All 4 speed sensors and hub rings need to be cleaned, and finally you will need your abs system reset and calibrated with a proper scan tool.

The Hyundai dealership did not do the first step. Now the front right abs brake valve is stuck in a closed position and will not open. They of course are not taking any responsibility, saying the part is bad. It is possible they are correct. We will never know. I'm now stuck waiting for them to remove the rebuilt ABS module so I can send it back for RMA replacement. This is turning into a complete and total nightmare. They're going to end up with my car for 4 weeks and I'm going to end up spending close to $3,000....

Thanks for the post. Any update? I think my current situation is very close to yours and I'm trying to make decisions. My 2014 genesis ESC and ABS brake lights were intermittently on and off. My independent garage whom I trust said my pads wore down and damaged the rotors. They replaced them and said if I wanted ABS back I should take it to the dealer as the electronic reset was beyond them. I got around to it in 6 weeks at which point the pads were completely gone again to the point the dealer (after a $100 diagnostic fee) thought the independent garage had lied to me about doing repair. The independent guy paid to tow it back to his shop re-did the pads and rotors but then needed to replace the calipers which had also become damaged from the heat. So I towed it back to the dealer for the electronics who (after another $200 diagnostic fee this time) said I needed a $3500 HECU replacement. Other threads on this forum said there is a chance I could get a "goodwill" HECU repair due to the lawsuit and settlement over many other models with defective HECUs. Mine was not included in the settlement though. So I just spent $1300 to be told that I should now probably total the car before I got any use out of the repair I just paid for. I'm considering becoming Amish at this point.

 

[Woody6977]

Thanks for the post. Any update? I think my current situation is very close to yours and I'm trying to make decisions. My 2014 genesis ESC and ABS brake lights were intermittently on and off. My independent garage whom I trust said my pads wore down and damaged the rotors. They replaced them and said if I wanted ABS back I should take it to the dealer as the electronic reset was beyond them. I got around to it in 6 weeks at which point the pads were completely gone again to the point the dealer (after a $100 diagnostic fee) thought the independent garage had lied to me about doing repair. The independent guy paid to tow it back to his shop re-did the pads and rotors but then needed to replace the calipers which had also become damaged from the heat. So I towed it back to the dealer for the electronics who (after another $200 diagnostic fee this time) said I needed a $3500 HECU replacement. Other threads on this forum said there is a chance I could get a "goodwill" HECU repair due to the lawsuit and settlement over many other models with defective HECUs. Mine was not included in the settlement though. So I just spent $1300 to be told that I should now probably total the car before I got any use out of the repair I just paid for. I'm considering becoming Amish at this point.

The Dealer has had my car for 7 weeks. Car is still broke.

I refused to buy the $3500 HECU. Which was a good thing. What I have learned. My original HECU was good. It through diagnostic codes because the brake oil was contaminated and thicker than pudding. If you are having the same caliber lock-ups and other times you have to push the brake peddle to the floor to stop. Do not take this to the dealer.

1. Have your entire brake system flushed.
2. Have your HECU reset.
This should fix the problem.
3. If it does not and the HECU is still throwing codes. Have it pulled. Go to the ECU Testing website, fill everything out and ship it to them. DHL shipping to them takes 2-4 days. They say 3 days to test your unit. It took them 7 days to test mine. Then another 7 days to rebuild it with a lifetime warranty. Return shipping takes 2-4 days. But your total bill is between $390 and $440. Then have it re-installed.

 

[jep604]

Thanks for the post. Any update? I think my current situation is very close to yours and I'm trying to make decisions. My 2014 genesis ESC and ABS brake lights were intermittently on and off. My independent garage whom I trust said my pads wore down and damaged the rotors. They replaced them and said if I wanted ABS back I should take it to the dealer as the electronic reset was beyond them. I got around to it in 6 weeks at which point the pads were completely gone again to the point the dealer (after a $100 diagnostic fee) thought the independent garage had lied to me about doing repair. The independent guy paid to tow it back to his shop re-did the pads and rotors but then needed to replace the calipers which had also become damaged from the heat. So I towed it back to the dealer for the electronics who (after another $200 diagnostic fee this time) said I needed a $3500 HECU replacement. Other threads on this forum said there is a chance I could get a "goodwill" HECU repair due to the lawsuit and settlement over many other models with defective HECUs. Mine was not included in the settlement though. So I just spent $1300 to be told that I should now probably total the car before I got any use out of the repair I just paid for. I'm considering becoming Amish at this point.

How many miles on your 2014? Sounds like a nightmare.