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3.8 Ram Air Intake custom heat shield a more true "CAI"

Cali Gen

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Location
Bay Area, California
Genesis Model Type
1G Genesis Sedan (2009-2014)
Sooo this is something that just needed to be done. As most of you know the aftermaket for our cars blows Donkey Ass. As a result were stuck either keeping the stock box with K&N filter/magnetic flap mod OR getting a Cold Air Intake..JK we can keep dreaming. In reality they're just a couple slight variations of a Short Ram Air Intake. Well again as most of you already know our engine bays run hot A F and without any sort of shielding its most likely getting sucked up into the intake. This is where some will argue about dyno numbers with and without intake and blah blah blah bottom line is heat soak is heat soak. Honestly I Love my INJEN intake freaking mean ass growl but i definitely took a huge hit in MPG and thats just simply due to the fact that I'm just not getting as much cool air to the engine for the better fuel air ratios.

Well today after crushing a Costco pizza i decided to do something about it! My goal is to create a Custom Heat Shield/Ram air box That utilizes the same mounting points/brackets from the stock box. The plan is to pick up a sheet of galvanized steel or some roof flashing cut it to this template I've created, run some vacuum hose all along the edges to make sure no wires or hoses get chewed up and on top use styrofoam pipe insulation to create a nice seal with the hood of the car. The other big part is i want to be able to truly use the air pickup right on top of the radiator. I was thinking of using either a short pvc pipe or some air ducting to extend it a tad bit so that it too feeds directly into the box. Ideas to achieve this?


Somthing I am unsure of however is should i create a bottom plate as well or do you think with what i have described above It will be more than sufficient in keeping heat away from the intake?
20190521_234203.webp

Will find a simple bracket so that i can secure it here in the upper left hand corner.
20190521_233817.webp

And using the metal bracket from the Stock box I will attach the other side here.
20190521_234005.webp

These are to show fitment with intake/engine cover installed. All in all it's a very snug fit and with using the same mounting points as the OEM box no new holes need to be drilled.
20190521_235432.webp 20190521_235129.webp 20190521_235419.webp


What do you think? Any criticism is appreciated!
 
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Seems like it will work fine to me or at-least as good as what many aftermarket air intake companies provide. I would add a thick rubber seal that seals the heat-shield against the hood to properly seal the air filter from the hot engine bay.

Note: To satisfy the critics you should take some IAT(intake air temperature) reading with OBII diagnostic tool before and after the heat-shield installation.
 
Seems like it will work fine to me or at-least as good as what many aftermarket air intake companies provide. I would add a thick rubber seal that seals the heat-shield against the hood to properly seal the air filter from the hot engine bay.

Note: To satisfy the critics you should take some IAT(intake air temperature) reading with OBII diagnostic tool before and after the heat-shield installation.

As i said i will be using something along the lines of this for the top edge to create a nice seal with the hood.
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As for the IAT before and after readings thats something i would love to do just for myself to see if my hard work pays off lol Please inform me on how i could go about doing that?


EDIT: nvm I saw you edited your post lol i think i can do that pretty sure i have a buddy or two with an OBDII tool that would know how to do that for me.
 
I think the better option is this.
Replace the accordian piping from TB to airbox with smooth bend aluminum. Use the OEM box with a K&N filter. IMHO it's the best option for pulling the most cold air into the intake.

I went with a rubber 90 deg elbow as I couldn't find a tight enough 90 deg aluminum bend.
20190102_195916.webp
 
I think the better option is this.
Replace the accordian piping from TB to airbox with smooth bend aluminum. Use the OEM box with a K&N filter. IMHO it's the best option for pulling the most cold air into the intake.

I went with a rubber 90 deg elbow as I couldn't find a tight enough 90 deg aluminum bend.

Actually thought about doing this and I agree I think this is probably the best option as far as getting the MOST cold air. However a few reasons i didnt go this route.

1) I live in f$%k modded cars California I didn't want to rip apart my stock box so that i always have an OEM system that i can quickly bolt on for whatever reason mainly for when i have to start smogging in the next year or two being its a 2013.

2) Lets be honest the stock box is uuugly haha and besides i already paid for the intake and my goal is to make that more functional to its designed purpose. I want to feel/test what differences can be had with it actually receiving cold air as opposed to the ambient heat we all know these things actually suck in lol IF i can keep heat out while also being able to actually use the air duct from above the radiator to force some more cool air into the intake ill be more than satisfied.

3) With the set up difference between the 3.8 and the 5.0 there is actually space for a much much bigger pod filter then i saw on any of the 5.0 intakes and theres actually space to let it breathe nice cool air if it can be sealed off well enough. If i had a 5.0/if i decide to swap one in later on i would honestly do exactly what you did.

4) ZOOOM ZOOM sounds DUH
 
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I think the better option is this.
Replace the accordian piping from TB to airbox with smooth bend aluminum. Use the OEM box with a K&N filter. IMHO it's the best option for pulling the most cold air into the intake.

I went with a rubber 90 deg elbow as I couldn't find a tight enough 90 deg aluminum bend.
View attachment 20185
Not true, the stock intake sustem is not designed for performance at all. It has many silencer chambers, flaps etc.. it is meant to eliminate engine noise, and reduce engine wear.. The gains you will get from an intake like the injen far outweighs and temperature effect on intake charge air
 
Not true, the stock intake sustem is not designed for performance at all. It has many silencer chambers, flaps etc.. it is meant to eliminate engine noise, and reduce engine wear.. The gains you will get from an intake like the injen far outweighs and temperature effect on intake charge air
I think you misunderstood. he wasn't talking about the stock OEM intake just the the box he used in his DIY one and you can just remove the flap simple mod. But with his set up he gets to use the box and the radiator scoop. With a drop in k&n. I'd much rather have that set then the rinky dink filters they do have that fits that space on the 5.0
 
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Not true, the stock intake sustem is not designed for performance at all. It has many silencer chambers, flaps etc.. it is meant to eliminate engine noise, and reduce engine wear.. The gains you will get from an intake like the injen far outweighs and temperature effect on intake charge air

Maybe you should read the thread that showed a loss of power with the R2C faux CAI. Filter size had a huge impact on the amount of air it can suck in.

If you look at my picture I have removed all the silencers, chambers, flaps to pull in the most air. Yeah I don't get that cool "vroom" sound from a CAI but that's ok.

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
 
Actually thought about doing this and I agree I think this is probably the best option as far as getting the MOST cold air. However a few reasons i didnt go this route.

1) I live in f$%k modded cars California I didn't want to rip apart my stock box so that i always have an OEM system that i can quickly bolt on for whatever reason mainly for when i have to start smogging in the next year or two being its a 2013.

I made no modifications to my OEM airbox. I can go back to stock in a few minutes.
 
Cali,

If you have the opportunity, find the largest filter that will fit the diameter intake pipe you are using. My guess is you can pull in more air.
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I think you misunderstood. he wasn't talking about the stock OEM intake just the the box he used in his DIY one and you can just remove the flap simple mod. But with his set up he gets to use the box and the radiator scoop. With a drop in k&n. I'd much rather have that set then the rinky dink filters they do have that fits that space on the 5.0
Cali,

If you have the opportunity, find the largest filter that will fit the diameter intake pipe you are using. My guess is you can pull in more air.
I wanna say it's like 3.25 or 3.5 where the filter goes on
 
I think you misunderstood. he wasn't talking about the stock OEM intake just the the box he used in his DIY one and you can just remove the flap simple mod. But with his set up he gets to use the box and the radiator scoop. With a drop in k&n. I'd much rather have that set then the rinky dink filters they do have that fits that space on the 5.0
If you get rid of everything except the box then yes it will help for sure. If you leave the factory tubing then its pointless.

Im not saying that a heat shield wont help, but unless you install a fast acting IAT you will not see the benefits.. you see factory IAT’s only caculate the intake air temp like every one minute or so. A fast acting thermistor will update in milliseconds constantly so the ecu wont pull timing. You should look up installing one its a massive difference. I made my own.

Plus the surface area of an intake like an injen or any aftermarket intake is much larger than any stock size panel filter, sooo more air and it doesn't filter as well sooo more air.

And i still utilize the factory scoop it just funnels right to the filter. See pic.

20187
 
If you get rid of everything except the box then yes it will help for sure. If you leave the factory tubing then its pointless.

Im not saying that a heat shield wont help, but unless you install a fast acting IAT you will not see the benefits.. you see factory IAT’s only caculate the intake air temp like every one minute or so. A fast acting thermistor will update in milliseconds constantly so the ecu wont pull timing. You should look up installing one its a massive difference. I made my own.

Plus the surface area of an intake like an injen or any aftermarket intake is much larger than any stock size panel filter, sooo more air and it doesn't filter as well sooo more air.

And i still utilize the factory scoop it just funnels right to the filter. See pic.

View attachment 20187
The injen intake I think is hands down the best option for the genesis sedan. Even every one minute you're still going to be able to see a difference with and without the heat shield.
 
The injen intake I think is hands down the best option for the genesis sedan. Even every one minute you're still going to be able to see a difference with and without the heat shield.
Very true.. people put way to much focus on “cold air” unless you have a system that routes the filter completely out of the engine bay to the outside, you will notice no difference. And even that is going to net negligible gains. You only gain power from colder air by the computer adding timing. Now i preface this by saying, no one is “wrong” and you do whatever you damn well want to do to your car cause its yours and no one else's!! I just want to let you guys know the science of what really is going on.

Plus inside tip from an SAE automotive engineer, air does not flow forward in engine bays, nor are they sealed off from the outside. We design cars to have immense airflow through the engine compartment to The underneath of the car. This increases downforce, creates a suction event, reduces drag, and helps keep temps down.

So when you are moving fresh air is flying in there and your intake temps will be at most 10 degrees higher then ambient. Now when you are at a standstill yes everything is experiencing heat soak, but as soon as you start moving, the amount of air flowing quickly negates that..

One has to remember that, the air your taking in also has to travel through the 200+ degree intake manifold and even hotter head. A heat shield or anything like that doesn't change a thing. Trust me, its what i do for a living and went to school for..

Think of any race car there is...Do they have cold air intakes??? Do they even have an intake period?? No they generally just have a plenum with a screen over it. They are sucking in air right off the engine... If a cold air intake made that much of a difference in power or performance, race cars would utilize them..
All that matters is the amount of extra air the engine can breathe, to then give it more gas, and your explosion is bigger. Cause thats how engines make power, converting the energy of the fossil fuel into Horsepower through combustion. Doesn't matter what temperature the air is when it blows..For safety and reliability issues all Auto makers (even on ferraris and lamborghinis etc..) they have the timing reduced pretty much always and it only increases the timing if its getting colder air (more densely packed oxygen) enough to still fall within that safe region of operation with timing settings etc.. Your baseline just shifts up. So that is the only reason Cold air has an effect on power output, but you're talking a few hp.. Tune your timing to maintain set parameters and bypass the factory programming You'll have a lot more power always. And that’s precisely what good tuners do. They spend about 3 or 4 hours just driving your car normally for 15/20 minutes with cables coming out to a wide band 02 clamped in the tail pipe taking logs, then park for 20/30 mins and set all those timing and fuel trim points.

Now trust me to each their own, whatever you wanna do, or like is your preference. No one is going to hurt their performance by doing things you all have described. But, you might be giving away power that you could be making otherwise. Just explaining the fact of the thermo and fluid dynamics of combustion powertrains, and auto aerodynamics cause i just want to share info with fellow genny lovers so everyone can benefit.
 
Very true.. people put way to much focus on “cold air” unless you have a system that routes the filter completely out of the engine bay to the outside, you will notice no difference. And even that is going to net negligible gains. You only gain power from colder air by the computer adding timing. Now i preface this by saying, no one is “wrong” and you do whatever you damn well want to do to your car cause its yours and no one else's!! I just want to let you guys know the science of what really is going on.

Plus inside tip from an SAE automotive engineer, air does not flow forward in engine bays, nor are they sealed off from the outside. We design cars to have immense airflow through the engine compartment to The underneath of the car. This increases downforce, creates a suction event, reduces drag, and helps keep temps down.

So when you are moving fresh air is flying in there and your intake temps will be at most 10 degrees higher then ambient. Now when you are at a standstill yes everything is experiencing heat soak, but as soon as you start moving, the amount of air flowing quickly negates that..

One has to remember that, the air your taking in also has to travel through the 200+ degree intake manifold and even hotter head. A heat shield or anything like that doesn't change a thing. Trust me, its what i do for a living and went to school for..

Think of any race car there is...Do they have cold air intakes??? Do they even have an intake period?? No they generally just have a plenum with a screen over it. They are sucking in air right off the engine... If a cold air intake made that much of a difference in power or performance, race cars would utilize them..
All that matters is the amount of extra air the engine can breathe, to then give it more gas, and your explosion is bigger. Cause thats how engines make power, converting the energy of the fossil fuel into Horsepower through combustion. Doesn't matter what temperature the air is when it blows..For safety and reliability issues all Auto makers (even on ferraris and lamborghinis etc..) they have the timing reduced pretty much always and it only increases the timing if its getting colder air (more densely packed oxygen) enough to still fall within that safe region of operation with timing settings etc.. Your baseline just shifts up. So that is the only reason Cold air has an effect on power output, but you're talking a few hp.. Tune your timing to maintain set parameters and bypass the factory programming You'll have a lot more power always. And that’s precisely what good tuners do. They spend about 3 or 4 hours just driving your car normally for 15/20 minutes with cables coming out to a wide band 02 clamped in the tail pipe taking logs, then park for 20/30 mins and set all those timing and fuel trim points.

Now trust me to each their own, whatever you wanna do, or like is your preference. No one is going to hurt their performance by doing things you all have described. But, you might be giving away power that you could be making otherwise. Just explaining the fact of the thermo and fluid dynamics of combustion powertrains, and auto aerodynamics cause i just want to share info with fellow genny lovers so everyone can benefit.
Provide an example of a modern race car that does not have an air box/duct system that pulls cooler air from outside.:)

You are describing older engines that used carburetors and most of those engines were uncovered and exposed so that they pulled in ambient air at speed.

Here is a BMW race car intake system. Apparently cooler oustide airflow is important to BMW.:)
1420686236628
 
Maybe you should read the thread that showed a loss of power with the R2C faux CAI. Filter size had a huge impact on the amount of air it can suck in.

i think the problem wasnt the filter on the r2c intake, it was the intake tube was undersized
 
Provide an example of a modern race car that does not have an air box/duct system that pulls cooler air from outside.:)

You are describing older engines that used carburetors and most of those engines were uncovered and exposed so that they pulled in ambient air at speed.

Here is a BMW race car intake system. Apparently cooler oustide airflow is important to BMW.:)
1420686236628
Ughhh carbon fibré 🤤🤤🤤
 
That race car has that CAI system because of restrictor plates. The only way to get more air through a tiny hole is to increase density. If they were allowed to run unrestricted they'd just run a short ram again.
 
Alll in all super stoked with the way it turned out..

After driving around today I got home and popped the hood. Just using my hand it was very very cool compared to the rest of the bay which was hot as f$%k. Before the shield it would always be sooo hot by the filter. I'm going to paint it when I do my trim and then I'll try to get some before and after IAT readings. But driving the same way i always do taking the same streets my mpg is going up next time i fill up I'm curious to see what i end averaging per mile.

Here are some before and afters.
20190523_155409.jpg20190523_184632.jpg

20190523_155557.jpg20190523_184644.jpg

20190523_155605.jpg20190523_184705.jpg

20190523_184727.jpg
 
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That race car has that CAI system because of restrictor plates. The only way to get more air through a tiny hole is to increase density. If they were allowed to run unrestricted they'd just run a short ram again.
Provide an example of a modern race car that uses short ram intakes. Only older race engines used a short ram design and most had the engine out in the open without being covered so they pulled in cooler outside air by design.

Modern N/A cars(race or street car) used a cold air design from the factory because colder air is denser(more energy) and enables the engine to run more efficiently.

Most factory turbo engines also utilize a cold air set-up, but are still able to create power from warmer air flow when using aftermarket short ram intakes due to using inter-coolers. Both N/A and turbo engines can gain power from a short ram if the engine is able to pull in more air(hotter or cooler), however cooler air flow will still create more power overall if the airflow is similar.

No matter how anyone tries to argue against physics; an engine will make more power with cooler air as opposed to hot air on similar air-filter intake setups. Therefore, power gains are only made when aftermarket short rams setups outflow the more restrictive stock cold-air setups.
 
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