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3.8L V6 - full spin on oil filter vs the canister refills?

acxiombill

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Does any manufacturer make a standard "spin-on" oil filter? I'm not a fan of the replaceable cartridge filters and would like to switch to a normal oil filter. Any recommendations appreciated!
 
No. You must use a cartridge filter. I think if you removed the plastic filter housing (made by Mahle), you would see why it is not possible to make a spin-on filter that fits. I believe the housing comes off with a 27mm socket.

I would only use the OEM filters sold by Hyundai dealers in their parts department. Some after-market filters are OK (only because they are identical to the OEM filter made by Mahle), but there are some bad ones out there, and some filter distributors have bad information on which filter to use,

You can also order them at discount prices online at websites that are run by Hyundai dealers. This site "appears" to be on the West Coast (but I am not sure):
https://www.hyundaipartsdeal.com/

Cartridge oil filters are the new normal and you will be seeing them in more and more new cars due to the fact that they reduce environmental waste concerns. They are used extensively in European cars and Toyota is now using them.

You can also stock up on air filters and cabin air filters at the same time to save on shipping.
 
Manufacturers have been shifting away from spin on filters for awhile now generally for 2 reasons, cartridge filters are cheaper to manufacture and they are more environmentally friendly; they are no better or worse than spin on filters. I'm not an environmentalist but California alone uses 67 million filters annually and that's a lot of steel going to the landfill so I can understand the reasoning behind the switch.
Considering the fact that you have to take the bottom windage panel off to access the filter a spin on loses it's real advantage.

Here is a study that I copied from another technical Hyundai post and was done on a Mobil1 filter vs a Hyundai OEM filter:

Mobil1 filter particle counts:
ISO Code (3): 15/14/12
>= 2 Micron: 479
>= 5 Micron: 177
>= 10 Micron: 49
>= 15 Micron: 19
>= 25 Micron: 4 (typical aftermarket filter rated to 20micron)
>= 50 Micron: 0
>= 100 Micron: 0

Hyundai OEM 26300 35503:
ISO Code (3): 17/17/14
>= 2 Micron: 2474
>= 5 Micron: 916
>= 10 Micron: 253
>= 15 Micron: 98
>= 25 Micron: 23
>= 50 Micron: 2
>= 100 Micron: 0

I had always used the Hyundai filter but seeing the Mobil1 filter capture 5x more than the Hyundai filter really got me thinking about the value of OEM filters. The Hyundai filters are manufactured under contract by whoever Hyundai designates to Hyundai specifications. In countless studies WIX appears to make the best filter tested among most filter manufacturers.
You will also find similar filter results in the Toyota, GM and other forums.
 
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Manufacturers have been shifting away from spin on filters for awhile now generally for 2 reasons, cartridge filters are cheaper to manufacture and they are more environmentally friendly; they are no better or worse than spin on filters. I'm not an environmentalist but California alone uses 67 million filters annually and that's a lot of steel going to the landfill so I can understand the reasoning behind the switch.
Considering the fact that you have to take the bottom windage panel off to access the filter a spin on loses it's real advantage.

Here is a study that I copied from another technical Hyundai post and was done on a Mobil1 filter vs a Hyundai OEM filter:

Mobil1 filter particle counts:
ISO Code (3): 15/14/12
>= 2 Micron: 479
>= 5 Micron: 177
>= 10 Micron: 49
>= 15 Micron: 19
>= 25 Micron: 4 (typical aftermarket filter rated to 20micron)
>= 50 Micron: 0
>= 100 Micron: 0

Hyundai OEM 26300 35503:
ISO Code (3): 17/17/14
>= 2 Micron: 2474
>= 5 Micron: 916
>= 10 Micron: 253
>= 15 Micron: 98
>= 25 Micron: 23
>= 50 Micron: 2
>= 100 Micron: 0

I had always used the Hyundai filter but seeing the Mobil1 filter capture 5x more than the Hyundai filter really got me thinking about the value of OEM filters. The Hyundai filters are manufactured under contract by whoever Hyundai designates to Hyundai specifications. In countless studies WIX appears to make the best filter tested among most filter manufacturers.
You will also find similar filter results in the Toyota, GM and other forums.
The Hyundai Genesis filters are made by Mahle, which also manufactures the complete oil filter module.
http://www.mahle.com/mahle/en/produ...enger-cars/oil-management/oil-filter-modules/

Even though Wix may sell a filter for the Hyundai Genesis, that doesn't mean for sure that they make it. Very few filter manufacturers actually make all the filters for every car, since that is not cost effective, and they generally source some of them from other manufacturers so they can offer distributors a full line of products. By the same token, Wix may make filters sold under other brand names.

In looking at the filter specs above for Mobil 1 and the Hyundai filter, I don't understand how to read the data. Is the data for particles trapped or particles that get through?

Filters are also rated for oil flow, and sometimes a filter that traps a lot of particles (in theory) may also restrict oil flow to a degree where the engine could be starved of oil.
 
The Hyundai Genesis filters are made by Mahle, which also manufactures the complete oil filter module.
http://www.mahle.com/mahle/en/produ...enger-cars/oil-management/oil-filter-modules/

Even though Wix may sell a filter for the Hyundai Genesis, that doesn't mean for sure that they make it. Very few filter manufacturers actually make all the filters for every car, since that is not cost effective, and they generally source some of them from other manufacturers so they can offer distributors a full line of products. By the same token, Wix may make filters sold under other brand names.

In looking at the filter specs above for Mobil 1 and the Hyundai filter, I don't understand how to read the data. Is the data for particles trapped or particles that get through?

Filters are also rated for oil flow, and sometimes a filter that traps a lot of particles (in theory) may also restrict oil flow to a degree where the engine could be starved of oil.

Wix is a large USA filter manufacturer and they also private label to NAPA, O'Reilly and Autozone and as of 2016 are now part of the Euro Mann Hummel Group.
Mahle and Mann are similar companies with long histories and highly regarded products.
I agree flow rate is a concern for oil starvation and Wix also tops the list in that category.
The stats are based particles captured after passing through the test filter, the higher the number, the more particles that got through the filter.
Still it's probably OK to use anyone's filter as they mostly all do the job, even the Hyundai one and they stand behind it warranty wise as well.
 
the only disagreement I will have about "you should be able to use anyone's filter" is actual physical dimension variations. A filter not made to quite the right size can cause major issues. Anyone recall the Ford oil filter debacle where pretty much no filter but OEM Motorcraft filters fit properly and caused engine failures? You can have all the particle capturing stats and oil flow stats brand to brand, but let's also keep in mind the physical fitment in the housing could be a massive issue if there is a variation.
 
the only disagreement I will have about "you should be able to use anyone's filter" is actual physical dimension variations. A filter not made to quite the right size can cause major issues. Anyone recall the Ford oil filter debacle where pretty much no filter but OEM Motorcraft filters fit properly and caused engine failures? You can have all the particle capturing stats and oil flow stats brand to brand, but let's also keep in mind the physical fitment in the housing could be a massive issue if there is a variation.

Amen - this is particularly true with the filter utilized in the 5.0 V8 - It is of the so-called "cartridge" type. And, it is supported by two separate posts - rather than a central spindle arrangement. The filter's structure is accordingly rather complex, and it is easy to mis-align when installing. There was a long thread awhile back concerning "crushed" filters - most likely for this reason.

And, if the filter doesn't meet precise specs, or is installed improperly, you probably won't know until you have a disaster on your hands. Along the same lines, it is a bear to remove and replace, and you certainly wouldn't want to do it twice.

Moral: On the V8 - go Hyundai - or expect trouble.
 
the only disagreement I will have about "you should be able to use anyone's filter" is actual physical dimension variations. A filter not made to quite the right size can cause major issues. Anyone recall the Ford oil filter debacle where pretty much no filter but OEM Motorcraft filters fit properly and caused engine failures? You can have all the particle capturing stats and oil flow stats brand to brand, but let's also keep in mind the physical fitment in the housing could be a massive issue if there is a variation.

Good point, I wasn't aware of differences in housing fitment, I will have to see what my Wix filter is compared to the Hyundai one.
I drive a Ford diesel and never knew of an oil filter problem, learned something new today, thanks. My diesel has only ever had dealer service since it was new. I wanted to do my own oil changes on that one but at $124 I couldn't find a cheaper way of doing it myself. With 15 quarts of syn oil and a $20 filter my costs were at $100 and I thought for the extra $24 they could do the work.

- - - Updated - - -

Amen - this is particularly true with the filter utilized in the 5.0 V8 - It is of the so-called "cartridge" type. And, it is supported by two separate posts - rather than a central spindle arrangement. The filter's structure is accordingly rather complex, and it is easy to mis-align when installing. There was a long thread awhile back concerning "crushed" filters - most likely for this reason.

And, if the filter doesn't meet precise specs, or is installed improperly, you probably won't know until you have a disaster on your hands. Along the same lines, it is a bear to remove and replace, and you certainly wouldn't want to do it twice.

Moral: On the V8 - go Hyundai - or expect trouble.

I was unaware of the V8 problem or need to align the filter. My V6 just plops right into the canister and screws back in place without alignment.
I'm tempted to take a hole saw to my splash pan so I can do the filter without removing the pan but so far it just a thought.
 
Amen - this is particularly true with the filter utilized in the 5.0 V8 - It is of the so-called "cartridge" type. And, it is supported by two separate posts - rather than a central spindle arrangement. The filter's structure is accordingly rather complex, and it is easy to mis-align when installing. There was a long thread awhile back concerning "crushed" filters - most likely for this reason.

And, if the filter doesn't meet precise specs, or is installed improperly, you probably won't know until you have a disaster on your hands. Along the same lines, it is a bear to remove and replace, and you certainly wouldn't want to do it twice.

Moral: On the V8 - go Hyundai - or expect trouble.
This is especially a good idea, since the oil filter module http://www.mahle.com/mahle/en/produ...enger-cars/oil-management/oil-filter-modules/ and the Hyundai OEM oil filters for the Genesis, are both made by the same company -- Mahle.
 
Good point, I wasn't aware of differences in housing fitment, I will have to see what my Wix filter is compared to the Hyundai one.
I drive a Ford diesel and never knew of an oil filter problem, learned something new today, thanks. My diesel has only ever had dealer service since it was new. I wanted to do my own oil changes on that one but at $124 I couldn't find a cheaper way of doing it myself. With 15 quarts of syn oil and a $20 filter my costs were at $100 and I thought for the extra $24 they could do the work.

- - - Updated - - -



I was unaware of the V8 problem or need to align the filter. My V6 just plops right into the canister and screws back in place without alignment.
I'm tempted to take a hole saw to my splash pan so I can do the filter without removing the pan but so far it just a thought.

The V8 filter definitely does not plop right in. You have to lubricate one end of the filter and then force it onto a post in the filter housing (while you are upside down). Then the cap has to be properly aligned and installed to mate with the other end of the filter. The post in the cap actually "swivels" to facilitate correct alignment (good design here). Lastly, the filter has a rigid plastic grid integrated with the paper filter itself which minimizes the possibility of crushing the paper filter itself.

Again, the moral on the V8 is to use the factory filter.

*** slicing up the front splash pan might help on filter removal/replacement.

***** using a Mity-vac to suction the oil out definitely helps, since it obviates the necessity to remove the rear splash pan. Again, I'm talking the V8 here.
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*** slicing up the front splash pan might help on filter removal/replacement.

***** using a Mity-vac to suction the oil out definitely helps, since it obviates the necessity to remove the rear splash pan. Again, I'm talking the V8 here.

I was at the Mercedes dealer and saw them pumping oil out, inquired and was told they do all of them like that. I have been using a dipstick tube extraction pump since the late 90's on all my cars, trucks and boats and haven't taken a pan plug out since then.
Here;s what I've been using: http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.a...8E9VifTzf3P6CHVtYU-CfcD7S2yruuk9NMaAraV8P8HAQ
Cutting a hole in the splash pan would eliminate having to take the pan off for a simple oil change.
 
I was at the Mercedes dealer and saw them pumping oil out, inquired and was told they do all of them like that. I have been using a dipstick tube extraction pump since the late 90's on all my cars, trucks and boats and haven't taken a pan plug out since then.
Here;s what I've been using: http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.a...8E9VifTzf3P6CHVtYU-CfcD7S2yruuk9NMaAraV8P8HAQ
Cutting a hole in the splash pan would eliminate having to take the pan off for a simple oil change.
This subject has been discussed several times in the past on this forum. Here is what I recommend (requires an air compressor, but even the smallest ones will do fine):
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7300-PneumatiVac-Air-Operated-Evacuator/dp/B000JFN9WW
 
If you can afford a Genesis, why change your own oil??.....I'm done with crawling under a car.
 
If you can afford a Genesis, why change your own oil??.....I'm done with crawling under a car.
  1. An amazing number of dealers (and oil change places) screw it up.
  2. Dealers use crappy oil, and even if you tell them to upgrade it, or use the oil you provide, you have no way to verify they did what you asked (that happened to me at a Hyundai dealer).
  3. With an oil extractor such as MityVac, one can suck the oil out from the top though the dipstick.
  4. If you have 2015+ V6, the oil filter can be reached from the top of the engine bay, by reaching down between the engine and the radiator. 2009 - 2011 oil filter is on top of engine bay. Only the 2012 -2014 is it necessary to reach oil filter from the bottom.
 
If you can afford a Genesis, why change your own oil??.....I'm done with crawling under a car.
There was a recent post by someone who only thought he was getting an oil change - they weren't actually doing it.

But, he was better off than the next guy: They drained his oil and didn't put anything in. New engine on the way.

On my car with the V8 , removing & replacing the large splash panels is a hassle - so there have been posts about sloppy work in that dept.

With the right equipment & experience, it is not all that bad - even with the V8.

I don't blame anybody for not wanting to do the job, but I would literally be very wary of driving a dealer serviced car. And, for me, money is not the deciding factor at all.
 
The V8 filter definitely does not plop right in. You have to lubricate one end of the filter and then force it onto a post in the filter housing (while you are upside down). Then the cap has to be properly aligned and installed to mate with the other end of the filter. The post in the cap actually "swivels" to facilitate correct alignment (good design here). Lastly, the filter has a rigid plastic grid integrated with the paper filter itself which minimizes the possibility of crushing the paper filter itself.

Again, the moral on the V8 is to use the factory filter.

*** slicing up the front splash pan might help on filter removal/replacement.

***** using a Mity-vac to suction the oil out definitely helps, since it obviates the necessity to remove the rear splash pan. Again, I'm talking the V8 here.

I just completed my first DIY oil change on my 5Ltr and have to say this was nowhere nearly as difficult as I was led to believe.:doh: The filter used was OEM and the only thing that was "difficult" was removing the plastic filter cap since the dealer must have over torqued it on with the last oil change. The cap's being overly tight to the aluminum housing has nothing to do with preventing leaks - the o-ring at the bottom of the cap's threads is what provides the seal against the inside walls of the aluminum housing. It shouldn't be an issue to remove next time since I have not overtightened it.:encouragement:

I warmed the car to operating temps, used my manual vac pump (use it for my boat's engine oil changes too) to remove the oil via the dipstick tube (done within 5 minutes). No compressors, no electrical required, just pump it up with the handle on top and it creates a suction in the 10 Ltr tank - so easy.:spoton:

While the oil was evacuated, I took a Phillips screwdriver and a 10mm socket/driver to remove the front cover. No need to break the plastic push pins. Simply back out the plastic bolt and gently pull on it to get the push pin out. Once off, it clearly exposes the oil filter.

Now that the oil evacuator was sucking air, I placed my oil change pan beneath the filter and used a #6 Allen wrench bit to remove the little plug on the bottom of the filter cap. A bit of oil left in the filter will drain.

After a couple of minutes the filter cup was down to an occasional drip. I then attached a 25mm to the plastic nut on the bottom of the oil filter cup. No go. It was on too tight. I ended up using a rubber strap wrench with great effort but finally got it to budge.:bash: Once off, the old filter remained inside the aluminum housing, but would just slide off and into the oil change pan. At this time, I took off the old o-ring from the plastic cap and reinstalled the new one once lubed with oil. I poured some new oil on the new filter ends and placed it on the swivel centre inside the plastic cup, then simply raised the cup to the housing making sure that the filter centre was lining up with the housing's filter post. Pushed it in to the point of contact with the cap's threads and began to screw it onto the housing. Once fully on and snug, I reinstalled the plug with a new o-ring to the bottom of the plastic cap.

Filled the engine with oil, started it and saw the oil light go out, rechecked the oil and added more as required, started again and checked for leaks - none. Reattached the shield under the car - done. Might take 1/2 hour next time. I don't even have to jack up the car!:wave:
 
I just completed my first DIY oil change on my 5Ltr and have to say this was nowhere nearly as difficult as I was led to believe.:

With the right equipment & experience, it is not difficult - but there are plenty of opportunities for a sloppy mechanic to screw it up.

One extra tip: The plastic pushpins are lousy fasteners. I don't even think of re-using them. A package of 100 can be had on Ebay for a few bucks.
 
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