3 weeks and BOOM!

[ShadowZ]

So I have had my 2009 4.6 for 22 days.

Last night when I left the hockey rink I started my car and allowed it to warm up for about 3 minutes while I got my bag in the car.

Started driving out of the parking lot and everything was fine. Turned the corner and when I got to right about 30 MPH, shutter-shutter-bang-bang-loud noises, engine light flashing, loss of brake pedal pressure, oil light flickering.

I pulled over immediately and did a pre-check on everything I could think of; fuel level was good, engine temp was about 80 degrees, air filter and all hoses/lines/wires connected, coolant was in normal range for overflow reservoir, good pressure in hoses and radiator was full.

Then the oil level, OVERFULL by 2 inches and milky.

OBD-II says: Mulitple cylinder misfire, misfire on 1, 5, 7, 8. then a repeat of the same codes as "(pending)".

Judging by the smoke, which looked white at 11:30PM on a 2 degree evening, I assumed it was a head gasket.

But why would one gasket affect both cylinder banks? Could I really have popped both? or is #8 just a fluke?

I have had the car for 22 days and drove it 1123 miles. My warranty from the dealer, who at this time will remain nameless because they may help out, is for 30 days and 1000 miles.

 

[Retry]

Boy that's sad! I hope your dealer will step up to the plate. Keep us posted.

 

[Jimmmmbo!]

Boy, that really sucks.

The identification of cylinders (along with the firing pattern) may not necessarily be an exact odd-even pattern. I'm not sure for the 4.6 Tau, but it's possible that cylinders 1, 5, 7 and 8 are all identified on just one side of the engine.

 

[brfatal]

Sorry to hear.

White smoke is oil, not coolant. Oil lights on most cars today means that oil pressure has already gone low enough to cause damage. In almost all cases (at least everyone I've ever heard of), if you have that light, you have bearing damage.

 

[ShadowZ]

Blue smoke is oil, white can be steam. Milkshake on dipstick is a common sign of head gasket failure.

There is definitely bottom-end damage judging by the metal I saw on the dipstick. Probably caused by coolant entering the combustion chamber and bending everything to hell during compression strokes.

Should know more Tuesday.

 

[ShadowZ]

Vehicle being taken to Hyundai dealer on Monday. The dealer I bought it from seems to be willing to help so far. I hope it continues.

 

[Alwaysforward]

Vehicle being taken to Hyundai dealer on Monday. The dealer I bought it from seems to be willing to help so far. I hope it continues.

That is good news. Keep us posted...

 

[ShadowZ]

Genevieve was taken to the Hyundai dealer today.

Upon arrival they quoted me $135 for a diagnosis, which is a fair price. I told the gentleman that I agreed, but that I was 100% certain there was bottom-end damage and a new motor was needed.

He called me back a few hours later and said "After initial inspection, there is a hole in the side of your engine near the motor mount, about the size of a lemon."
To which I replied, "Okay, so the motor threw a rod. What now?"
I expected as much as this, so it did not come as such a shock to me that the engine put its proverbial fist through the wall.

He proceeded to quote me prices for re-manufactured engines from Hyundai and used engines with similar mileage, $9,900 - $10,100 for the re-man'd and less $500 for a salvaged engine. He said he contacted the GM at the sister dealership I bought it from and they will give there response as to what the will do, if anything, to assist in this situation.

He then called me back several hours later and informed me that he had not heard anything and did not want to leave for the evening without giving me an update. He would try them again in the morning and get back to me. I appreciated his thoughtfulness and I am pleased so far with the way they are treating me. My only hope now is that they will be gracious enough to replace my engine or buy the car back from me. At this point I will do either, but I would like to keep the car because I do enjoy it so much.

Sucks that the block has a hole in it. If things were to go the way of a worst-case scenario I would have liked to keep the old block and over time do a nice build with some forged internals (assuming they are not already forged) and micro shot peening by WPC Treatment.

I will update when I know more. Cross your fingers for me please!

 

[Epiphany]

Does the car still have Hyundai warranty?

 

[Alwaysforward]

Genevieve was taken to the Hyundai dealer today.

Upon arrival they quoted me $135 for a diagnosis, which is a fair price. I told the gentleman that I agreed, but that I was 100% certain there was bottom-end damage and a new motor was needed.

He called me back a few hours later and said "After initial inspection, there is a hole in the side of your engine near the motor mount, about the size of a lemon."
To which I replied, "Okay, so the motor threw a rod. What now?"
I expected as much as this, so it did not come as such a shock to me that the engine put its proverbial fist through the wall.

He proceeded to quote me prices for re-manufactured engines from Hyundai and used engines with similar mileage, $9,900 - $10,100 for the re-man'd and less $500 for a salvaged engine. He said he contacted the GM at the sister dealership I bought it from and they will give there response as to what the will do, if anything, to assist in this situation.

He then called me back several hours later and informed me that he had not heard anything and did not want to leave for the evening without giving me an update. He would try them again in the morning and get back to me. I appreciated his thoughtfulness and I am pleased so far with the way they are treating me. My only hope now is that they will be gracious enough to replace my engine or buy the car back from me. At this point I will do either, but I would like to keep the car because I do enjoy it so much.

Sucks that the block has a hole in it. If things were to go the way of a worst-case scenario I would have liked to keep the old block and over time do a nice build with some forged internals (assuming they are not already forged) and micro shot peening by WPC Treatment.

I will update when I know more. Cross your fingers for me please!

Fingers and toes are crossed.

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[Jimmmmbo!]

Does the car still have Hyundai warranty?

+1.

I don't know why this wouldn't be covered by the 10Y/100K warranty unless they're claiming that they have evidence of the engine being run with low oil pressure or was constantly over-revved.

 

[homeofstone]

+1.

I don't know why this wouldn't be covered by the 10Y/100K warranty unless they're claiming that they have evidence of the engine being run with low oil pressure or was constantly over-revved.

It was purchased used. 2009 model owned for 22 days. so the warranty is for 60k miles. OP has not told us the number of miles on the car or its history regarding accidents or modifications.

 

[ShadowZ]

Good afternoon gentlemen,

I purchased the vehicle on January 22nd, 2014 with 71,389 on the odometer.

February 13th is when the failure occurred with the odometer reading 72,350.
It is out of factory warranty. Also 141 miles out of dealership warranty.

Now for the update:

I heard back from the dealer today and after the two GMs discussions they agreed to only $1,000 in good will towards repair, so basically 10% the cost of repair. They also stated that there is one other option that they are trying which is having a Hyundai representative inspect the vehicle at the dealership. This is happening as I type, and her decision on the repair is "the final decision."

I called Hyundai Consumer Care and filed my official complaint and findings. They also told me that I had two open campaigns on the vehicle, one for the stop lamp switch and the other for the brake fluid campaign.

This is what made me mad because I specifically asked the dealer before I bought the car if everything had been completed on the vehicle per Hyundai's TSBs and Campaigns. I was informed that "Yes, everything is always completed once we take in a vehicle before we sell it."

Being that this is a safety campaign, do I have some sort of ammunition in getting either more for my repair or complete repair since they technically sold me a vehicle that from my understanding was not fit to be sold in the first place?

 

[Jimmmmbo!]

I must be seriously missing something here.

A 2009 Genesis (from what I could find on the net) came with a 10 year / 100,000 mile drivetrain warranty. I would think a thrown rod would qualify under that, and not the basic 5 year / 60,000 mile warranty.

Is the warranty not transferable or something? Sorry I'm so clueless on this one.

 

[scottdk]

I must be seriously missing something here.

A 2009 Genesis (from what I could find on the net) came with a 10 year / 100,000 mile drivetrain warranty. I would think a thrown rod would qualify under that, and not the basic 5 year / 60,000 mile warranty.

Is the warranty not transferable or something? Sorry I'm so clueless on this one.

Only the bumper to bumper warranty is transferable to the 2nd owner. The powertrain warranty only applies to the original owner.

 

[ShadowZ]

UPDATE:

So I can use the dealership's name now and not in a negative light.

Walser Toyota is where I bought the car from and I have had it at Walser Hyundai for the last few days.

Walser and Hyundai came together with this solution to the problem. Vehicle is out of both the dealer and the factory warranty.

They will pay for the cost of a new engine and all associated parts, gaskets, seals, connectors, etc. I am left to pick up the labor portion. All campaigns and TSBs will be done including a new HECU during the #114 campaign. I requested the HECU because of the age and mileage plus the fact that the DOT3 fluid in there would be 5 years old and there is more of a risk of the gel build-up.

To me, this seems pretty reasonable. I will get a new engine, with warranty for about $3,200-$4,000.

Since I bought this vehicle about $4,700 under NADA and KBB value, I think that it makes it a wash and I have what is basically a new car. It sucks that I need to use up to $4,000 of what would be allocated for our adoption of a child for this, but it is necessary.

Happier than a week ago, that is for sure!

Vehicle will take 15-20 days for repairs to be completed though, which sucks because I got my wings and center caps in the mail the day after it popped... Now they are just sitting on my desk...

 

[Alwaysforward]

UPDATE:

So I can use the dealership's name now and not in a negative light.

Walser Toyota is where I bought the car from and I have had it at Walser Hyundai for the last few days.

Walser and Hyundai came together with this solution to the problem. Vehicle is out of both the dealer and the factory warranty.

They will pay for the cost of a new engine and all associated parts, gaskets, seals, connectors, etc. I am left to pick up the labor portion. All campaigns and TSBs will be done including a new HECU during the #114 campaign. I requested the HECU because of the age and mileage plus the fact that the DOT3 fluid in there would be 5 years old and there is more of a risk of the gel build-up.

To me, this seems pretty reasonable. I will get a new engine, with warranty for about $3,200-$4,000.

Since I bought this vehicle about $4,700 under NADA and KBB value, I think that it makes it a wash and I have what is basically a new car. It sucks that I need to use up to $4,000 of what would be allocated for our adoption of a child for this, but it is necessary.

Happier than a week ago, that is for sure!

Vehicle will take 15-20 days for repairs to be completed though, which sucks because I got my wings and center caps in the mail the day after it popped... Now they are just sitting on my desk...

Sounds like you made out fairly well being that the car was out of warranty. Thanks for the update and your response makes me like Hyundai even more now that they are standing behind their product.

 

[Jimmmmbo!]

I'm glad you were able to come to an agreement with Walser to your reasonable satisfaction. Now I understand why you've had all the headaches (related to out-of-warranty).