Any DRL LED Replacements for 2015?

[Gahaha]

Anyone know of any LEDs that do not hyper flash and are relatively easy to install? I am tired of having to swap bulbs 3-4 times a year. There's been some discussions I followed in the past on this but I don't recall there being an actual answer.

 

[kakerlak]

I've been doing a little reading on this while I wait for my car to arrive. Seems like the LED bulbs need a resistor soldered into the circuit somewhere to let the car read the correct resistance for a conventional bulb.

 

[Suburbazine]

If you think replacing the lamp is considered an "easy" task, then yes, there are drop in replacements that meet your needs. Do not buy the resistor packs for these, they are unnecessary:

V6 TRITON AMBER

#html-body [data-pb-style=XVPFXVM]{background-position:left top;background-size:cover;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-attachment:scroll;align-self:stretch}#html-body [data-pb-style=EWBQ9XD]{display:flex;width:100%}#html-body [data-pb-style=M23DFO2]

www.vleds.com

The hardest part of the task is that on one or possibly both sides, you'll have to pull the existing socket out and swap the wires. When Hyundai builds the sockets, there is no preference given to polarity of the socket terminals.

 

[kakerlak]

If you think replacing the lamp is considered an "easy" task, then yes, there are drop in replacements that meet your needs. Do not buy the resistor packs for these, they are unnecessary:

V6 TRITON AMBER

#html-body [data-pb-style=XVPFXVM]{background-position:left top;background-size:cover;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-attachment:scroll;align-self:stretch}#html-body [data-pb-style=EWBQ9XD]{display:flex;width:100%}#html-body [data-pb-style=M23DFO2]

www.vleds.com

The hardest part of the task is that on one or possibly both sides, you'll have to pull the existing socket out and swap the wires. When Hyundai builds the sockets, there is no preference given to polarity of the socket terminals.

That's interesting! Confusing, though, as it looks like this company is selling a plug-in resistor to counter the rapid flash symptom. These look like nice lights, though -- the finned aluminum heatsink is cool!

 

[Gahaha]

If you think replacing the lamp is considered an "easy" task, then yes, there are drop in replacements that meet your needs. Do not buy the resistor packs for these, they are unnecessary:

V6 TRITON AMBER

#html-body [data-pb-style=XVPFXVM]{background-position:left top;background-size:cover;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-attachment:scroll;align-self:stretch}#html-body [data-pb-style=EWBQ9XD]{display:flex;width:100%}#html-body [data-pb-style=M23DFO2]

www.vleds.com

The hardest part of the task is that on one or possibly both sides, you'll have to pull the existing socket out and swap the wires. When Hyundai builds the sockets, there is no preference given to polarity of the socket terminals.

Yea, I've been replacing the lamps myself. What is the waterproof connector for? Not an expert by any means when it comes to electrician knowledge. If I recall, there aren't anything to plug that connector into.

 

[Suburbazine]

That's interesting! Confusing, though, as it looks like this company is selling a plug-in resistor to counter the rapid flash symptom. These look like nice lights, though -- the finned aluminum heatsink is cool!

The hyperflash resistor is only used on turn-signal-only cars that need more load than the LED lamps draw. They're also not rated for DRL use even though you could potentially use them full time. The original incandescent lamp pulls about 25 watts or so as I recall, the Tritons pull about 18 watts. I don't think the car will notice unless you get under 8-10 watts or so, though.

 

[Suburbazine]

Yea, I've been replacing the lamps myself. What is the waterproof connector for? Not an expert by any means when it comes to electrician knowledge. If I recall, there aren't anything to plug that connector into.

You don't need to worry about any of the waterproof stuff, that's for housings where the wiring would be exposed to the elements. Since the Genesis housing is fully internal nothing gets in. The lamp has a waterproof 3 pin connector that goes to the adapter harness- basically the lamp is universal while the socket connector is interchangeable. I used an 1157 base adapter.

The lamp replaces the Genesis socket in the headlamp, directly installing into the hole in the reflector. The adapter harness then plugs into the Genesis socket, which is left loose in the bottom of the headlamp housing. Picture for illustration only, not a Genesis socket:

 

[Gahaha]

You don't need to worry about any of the waterproof stuff, that's for housings where the wiring would be exposed to the elements. Since the Genesis housing is fully internal nothing gets in. The lamp has a waterproof 3 pin connector that goes to the adapter harness- basically the lamp is universal while the socket connector is interchangeable.

Ok so just leave that part unplugged then and just put in that lamp the same way as the Halogen one? Also what to you mean reverse the wires? Like yank it out of the plastic part and switch it with the other one?

 

[Suburbazine]

Ok so just leave that part unplugged then and just put in that lamp the same way as the Halogen one? Also what to you mean reverse the wires? Like yank it out of the plastic part and switch it with the other one?

The Genesis socket is connected to another connector inside the housing with about 6 inches of wire- just disconnect the socket from the harness, cut the wires and splice them backwards. You'll need to test the socket first before you cut any wires- just plug the LED in and see if the hazard lights work.

Oh, and to save yourself a headache, mark one wire on both ends before cutting- when I did mine, I didn't mark them and forgot which side was which... and yes, I spliced them back exactly like they were originally and it didn't work

I also recommend using Wago Lever-Lock splices instead of butt splices like I used. Way less troublesome to connect and a better connection overall:

https://www.amazon.com/221-2401-WAGO-Lever-Nuts%C2%AE-2-Conductor-Transparent/dp/B0BKR2SR7H/

 

[Gahaha]

The Genesis socket is connected to another connector inside the housing with about 6 inches of wire- just disconnect the socket from the harness, cut the wires and splice them backwards. You'll need to test the socket first before you cut any wires- just plug the LED in and see if the hazard lights work.

Oh, and to save yourself a headache, mark one wire on both ends before cutting- when I did mine, I didn't mark them and forgot which side was which... and yes, I spliced them back exactly like they were originally and it didn't work

I also recommend using Wago Lever-Lock splices instead of butt splices like I used. Way less troublesome to connect and a better connection overall:

https://www.amazon.com/221-2401-WAGO-Lever-Nuts%C2%AE-2-Conductor-Transparent/dp/B0BKR2SR7H/

Yea....that sounds too complicated, not simple as replacing the standard bulb at all lol, I'll pass on that.

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[surprisinguy]

It's really very easy - and once it's done it's done. Instead of splicing wires on mine I pulled the pins out of the connector and swapped them. I only had to do one light. Permanent fix and you'll replace lights every 3 years or so instead of multiple times a year.

 

[AustinK707]

Anyone know of any LEDs that do not hyper flash and are relatively easy to install? I am tired of having to swap bulbs 3-4 times a year. There's been some discussions I followed in the past on this but I don't recall there being an actual answer.

I replaced mine with LEDs about 2 years ago but had to add the resistor. It wasn’t hard, just had to drill a hole to attach the resistor & splice the wires together. I recommend actually splicing the wires instead of using the clips that came with the resistor.