Backup camera/trunk release button/approach auto trunk not working

[McGyver9]

I've searched for an answer here...I know there are several threads on this, but none give what I'm looking for.

My camera started flickering, then only worked when it wanted to.....then wouldn't turn on at all.... (over a couple months time)
I have a blue screen that still shows the alignment lines.

NOW, the only way into my trunk is w/ the remote or dash button....the rubber button doesn't work....not does the 'approach' feature.
This happened kind of all at once.
So, it sounds like a loose connection, right?

I dismantled the boot cover...(fun) I found nothing loose or frayed.
I unplugged every plug/re-plugged a few times, in case there was a bad connection inside.

I read there's a "common problem" of frayed harness.......but nothing on WHERE it is....how it gets frayed?

Anyone have a location or similar experience?

Thanks in advance,

PS, I was just told one of the back-up lights isn't working either....

 

[Suburbazine]

I've searched for an answer here...I know there are several threads on this, but none give what I'm looking for.

My camera started flickering, then only worked when it wanted to.....then wouldn't turn on at all.... (over a couple months time)
I have a blue screen that still shows the alignment lines.

NOW, the only way into my trunk is w/ the remote or dash button....the rubber button doesn't work....not does the 'approach' feature.
This happened kind of all at once.
So, it sounds like a loose connection, right?

I dismantled the boot cover...(fun) I found nothing loose or frayed.
I unplugged every plug/re-plugged a few times, in case there was a bad connection inside.

I read there's a "common problem" of frayed harness.......but nothing on WHERE it is....how it gets frayed?

Anyone have a location or similar experience?

Thanks in advance,

PS, I was just told one of the back-up lights isn't working either....

The jump point from the trunk swingarm to the body is where the harness frays. I think it's located on the right side trunk arm. (pop the trunk arm covers off to check)

 

[McGyver9]

The jump point from the trunk swingarm to the body is where the harness frays. I think it's located on the right side trunk arm. (pop the trunk arm covers off to check)

THanks for the reply...I'll check again...had that plastic bit off....nothing really to see in there..
Maybe need to climb inside and get behind the interior covers?

I'll report back!

 

[McGyver9]

So, finally got to check this out.....

They wrapped the HELL out of this harness! Don't know what more they could have done?
You bend a paperclip too many times, it's going to break. And copper "work hardens" to a fault...
If they replaced the whole harness, this would happen again in a few years...
If you make this MORE rigid, it's going to break somewhere ELSE.
Still thinking about it....
Maybe wrap a spring around it so it doesn't bend only in ONE place?
I'll post what I come up with...

PS.
The cowling in the trunk SUCKS to remove...
And the parts that hold the little press in 'holders' mostly broke.

6 new photos · Monday, Nov 9, 2020 📸

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[bobb4484]

Good troubleshooting on your part in finding the problem. It does involve a surprising number of damaged wires. Thanks for the information and the pictures to share. Are you planning to order and replace the harness or repair? It looks repairable to me and done right would be as good as new. I hope to never have this problem but its good to know where to look.

Would you follow up how you repaired/replaced the harness. Thanks.

 

[McGyver9]

Good troubleshooting on your part in finding the problem. It does involve a surprising number of damaged wires. Thanks for the information and the pictures to share. Are you planning to order and replace the harness or repair? It looks repairable to me and done right would be as good as new. I hope to never have this problem but its good to know where to look.

Would you follow up how you repaired/replaced the harness. Thanks.

Yeah....I expected maybe one or two...and didn't expect the insulation to be broken completely. I'm pretty sure the shielded cable is the camera....but the other ones explain the other features not working. Can't believe this didn't short out and fry the computer.
If you look at the 'establishing shot'/wide view, you'll see that this is part of a huge wiring harness. It goes to that little sub panel/fuse box and to the taillights in the boot, then, it then goes all the way up to the dash, with more crap loomed into it along the way I'm sure.
I can't imagine how much the part would cost, not to mention removing the whole interior to get it under the carpet...and then digging into that dashboard.
The harness construction is IMPRESSIVE. They spared NO expense. This point just didn't have that plastic tube/loom around it for some reason...

Repair is the only way.
I'm still thinking about how to go about it...so I don't have to do it again, later. Splicing the wires in this same flex point is just going to be a failure point again.. Going to have to come up with some way to make the entire thing move together, (because it moves quite a bit) w/out causing a pinch point.
Maybe find some more of that loom stuff to put around the whole thing, and remove an attachment point or two to let it move a little more.

I'll take pictures along the way...

 

[Markymark]

Yeah....I expected maybe one or two...and didn't expect the insulation to be broken completely. I'm pretty sure the shielded cable is the camera....but the other ones explain the other features not working. Can't believe this didn't short out and fry the computer.
If you look at the 'establishing shot'/wide view, you'll see that this is part of a huge wiring harness. It goes to that little sub panel/fuse box and to the taillights in the boot, then, it then goes all the way up to the dash, with more crap loomed into it along the way I'm sure.
I can't imagine how much the part would cost, not to mention removing the whole interior to get it under the carpet...and then digging into that dashboard.
The harness construction is IMPRESSIVE. They spared NO expense. This point just didn't have that plastic tube/loom around it for some reason...

Repair is the only way.
I'm still thinking about how to go about it...so I don't have to do it again, later. Splicing the wires in this same flex point is just going to be a failure point again.. Going to have to come up with some way to make the entire thing move together, (because it moves quite a bit) w/out causing a pinch point.
Maybe find some more of that loom stuff to put around the whole thing, and remove an attachment point or two to let it move a little more.

I'll take pictures along the way...

Nice work. As a matter of fact, this did fry my head unit. And my trunk latch still isn't working. Hyundai offered to diagnose it for me but I think it's probably just one of the two wires going to the latch that are broken. Maybe when I have time I'll look at it....

 

[Suburbazine]

I would look at converting the hinge run to an EconoLatch and coax patch so you can replace an interconnect rather than a whole harness.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/150179-2100?qs=OAhjpuo3Vu5KhBewYQPX%2FQ%3D%3D

 

[greekgeek]

Yeah....I expected maybe one or two...and didn't expect the insulation to be broken completely. I'm pretty sure the shielded cable is the camera....but the other ones explain the other features not working. Can't believe this didn't short out and fry the computer.
If you look at the 'establishing shot'/wide view, you'll see that this is part of a huge wiring harness. It goes to that little sub panel/fuse box and to the taillights in the boot, then, it then goes all the way up to the dash, with more crap loomed into it along the way I'm sure.
I can't imagine how much the part would cost, not to mention removing the whole interior to get it under the carpet...and then digging into that dashboard.
The harness construction is IMPRESSIVE. They spared NO expense. This point just didn't have that plastic tube/loom around it for some reason...

Repair is the only way.
I'm still thinking about how to go about it...so I don't have to do it again, later. Splicing the wires in this same flex point is just going to be a failure point again.. Going to have to come up with some way to make the entire thing move together, (because it moves quite a bit) w/out causing a pinch point.
Maybe find some more of that loom stuff to put around the whole thing, and remove an attachment point or two to let it move a little more.

I'll take pictures along the way...

Cost to replace that harness is significant, several thousand on the part and again on the labor. There is another thread on the front page about it now.

How to access the floor wiring harness?

How do you replace the floor wiring harness for 2016 sedan? I see the part #91357-B1501. How exactly does one access the connectors to the harness so an electrical cleaner can be used on them?

genesisowners.com

I had mine replaced under warranty, final symptom was the trunk latch not working, after years of electrical gremlins.

A couple years ago, a tech told me that the DH wires in the trunk were rerouted to avoid damage, maybe not on all of them.

 

[McGyver9]

Ok Boys,

I got a warm day to go after this...

First thing I'd like to say, these wires remind me of my '62 VW Bug I had.....if you wiggle a wire, the insulation is going to break.
Don't know if there's a chemical incompatibility in materials/adhesives used in this harness or what....but as you see in the pictures, the insulation just cracked....then the wires bent enough in that point to eventually 'work harden' and break.
DON'T get me wrong...the workmanship in this harness is TOP NOTCH! It's BEAUTIFUL! Except for the wires breaking....lol

Note that I removed the factory attachment point at the special/purpose built bracket. I think this exacerbated the flexing, by making it shorter. Also gave me more slack for soldering....
I did NOT re-attach it when I was done... (note in the final video)

I put a meter one EVERY broken/cut wire....I had ZERO voltage on ANY of them!
Yeah....weird... (Ignition OFF, obviously)
So, I didn't bother disconnecting the battery.

I stripped the factory wrap up to the second attachment point on the hinge arm, if that makes sense. To give me room to park the shrink tube while I soldered. Cut around the first point...DON'T try to pull ANY of these 'snap-in' items, if you can help it. They ALL broke...
The trunk interior panels are held by clips like on a 'door card'... The part attached to the panel, that holds the clips, broke! not the little replaceable bit/dick thing. I re-installed by running a screw through the panel, into the clip that was still in place. (I didn't take a picture of that....sorry. LMK if you need one.)

Pretty straight forward/self explanatory repair...look at the pix.
I cut/stripped (both ends), in MY case, 5- 1.5" wire extension pieces.
Soldered to the high/long end first...put the heat shrink tube on (don't forget)....soldered the lower end.
I had TWO broken solid black wires...I looked at where the wire was on each end still tight in the loom, and one black wire was touching the orange wire on both ends...
Guess I got THAT right......???
Tested it before I went any further.
Note, the shielded gray 'cable' with 2 wires is for the camera I'm assuming. I didn't bother trying to shield it with foil or anything, because the picture was fine when I tested it.

Wrapped the remaining broken insulation wires, just to be safe..

Then, instead of wrapping them all back together in tape, which I think helped stress the wires, I used a piece of tubing that I had laying around...it's pretty thick walled/rigid, and it fit under the cowling piece.
I suppose something like garden hose would work too.....maybe some factory type loom, but I kinda think that would be TOO flexible.....maybe if you wrapped it in electrical tape really tight to 'firm' it up?
Secured it to that first attachment point... the gray plastic piece.

Then my 'over-engineering' gene kicked in...I played around with using a spring to pull the harness from the middle of the slack area, toward the front of the car, to keep it from flexing in any one place more than the rest.
I ended up bailing on the idea.
I included the videos I took of closing the boot all the way down on my arm, holding the camera on the harness.
Think the spring made it flex a little more at the bottom than w/out it. You be the judge...
I left the video in there so maybe someone else might come up w/ something better.

I can NOT imagine NOT trying THIS, over buying a complete new harness and removing the whole interior/console/dash of the car to replace it....Imagine how many things will break ALL over the car, when you're taking ALL of that shit apart...
That's just idiotic!
Probably why the one guy was w/out his car for 60 days....Because they had to keep special ordering crazy obscure shit direct from Korea, that broke along the way...

If anything, I'd buy the ass end of that harness, from a junk yard, cut that 2 foot bit out of it, and solder the WHOLE thing/every wire, up close to where I did the repair, and solder it to the other end, giving you 2 extra feet of flex/slack....but THAT might cause even MORE problems with pinching/rubbing on the body/hinge or something?


Hope this wasn't TOO long winded and rambly....And I write things down like how I talk....
I'm SURE my wife would FLUNK me for my sentence structure. (a writing Teacher)
That's just how I am...lol

Hope this helps!

Genesis Trunk wiring harness · Saturday, Nov 21, 2020 📸

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[Gen127]

Thanks for all your photos & explanation of your process.
I've been without a backup camera for over a year —just the blue screen, with an occasional flicker, or the camera will come one for a short time, but once the trunk is opened & closed, back to the blue screen—obvious an indication of a loose or separated wire connection connected to the trunk in some fashion.

 

[McGyver9]

Thanks for all your photos & explanation of your process.
I've been without a backup camera for over a year —just the blue screen, with an occasional flicker, or the camera will come one for a short time, but once the trunk is opened & closed, back to the blue screen—obvious an indication of a loose or separated wire connection connected to the trunk in some fashion.

My pleasure...
That's how mine started.....(blue screen, on and off).....then the trunk button....
Pretty much EVERY thing that's mss produced will fail in exactly the same place/way...

 

[McGyver9]

PS
If this HASN'T happened to you yet. A preventive measure, in my opinion, would be to disconnect that bit of the wiring harness from it's purposely made wire/tie attachment.

To get to it, You only have to remove 3 screws covered by the spare tire flap on the passenger side...
And the 10mm bolt holding the parcel net attachment, on the rear plastic bit, that houses the trunk Nader pin/latch.
Remove the sub-fuse box access door to give you a place to grab the panel...
You'll have to "force" a few things, but it'll be LESS headaches...
The "roof" of the boot/cargo area WILL break!

 

[McGyver9]

Someone posted this recall on another thread.
Guess I figured it all out on my own..

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10174809-0001.pdf

 

[millemk]

Looks like preventive repair on this harness is very important to prevent future failure. Thanks to all who contributed, as I am planning this action prior to any failure on my car.

 

[RandyZ]

Ok Boys,

I got a warm day to go after this...

First thing I'd like to say, these wires remind me of my '62 VW Bug I had.....if you wiggle a wire, the insulation is going to break.
Don't know if there's a chemical incompatibility in materials/adhesives used in this harness or what....but as you see in the pictures, the insulation just cracked....then the wires bent enough in that point to eventually 'work harden' and break.
DON'T get me wrong...the workmanship in this harness is TOP NOTCH! It's BEAUTIFUL! Except for the wires breaking....lol

Note that I removed the factory attachment point at the special/purpose built bracket. I think this exacerbated the flexing, by making it shorter. Also gave me more slack for soldering....
I did NOT re-attach it when I was done... (note in the final video)

I put a meter one EVERY broken/cut wire....I had ZERO voltage on ANY of them!
Yeah....weird... (Ignition OFF, obviously)
So, I didn't bother disconnecting the battery.

I stripped the factory wrap up to the second attachment point on the hinge arm, if that makes sense. To give me room to park the shrink tube while I soldered. Cut around the first point...DON'T try to pull ANY of these 'snap-in' items, if you can help it. They ALL broke...
The trunk interior panels are held by clips like on a 'door card'... The part attached to the panel, that holds the clips, broke! not the little replaceable bit/dick thing. I re-installed by running a screw through the panel, into the clip that was still in place. (I didn't take a picture of that....sorry. LMK if you need one.)

Pretty straight forward/self explanatory repair...look at the pix.
I cut/stripped (both ends), in MY case, 5- 1.5" wire extension pieces.
Soldered to the high/long end first...put the heat shrink tube on (don't forget)....soldered the lower end.
I had TWO broken solid black wires...I looked at where the wire was on each end still tight in the loom, and one black wire was touching the orange wire on both ends...
Guess I got THAT right......???
Tested it before I went any further.
Note, the shielded gray 'cable' with 2 wires is for the camera I'm assuming. I didn't bother trying to shield it with foil or anything, because the picture was fine when I tested it.

Wrapped the remaining broken insulation wires, just to be safe..

Then, instead of wrapping them all back together in tape, which I think helped stress the wires, I used a piece of tubing that I had laying around...it's pretty thick walled/rigid, and it fit under the cowling piece.
I suppose something like garden hose would work too.....maybe some factory type loom, but I kinda think that would be TOO flexible.....maybe if you wrapped it in electrical tape really tight to 'firm' it up?
Secured it to that first attachment point... the gray plastic piece.

Then my 'over-engineering' gene kicked in...I played around with using a spring to pull the harness from the middle of the slack area, toward the front of the car, to keep it from flexing in any one place more than the rest.
I ended up bailing on the idea.
I included the videos I took of closing the boot all the way down on my arm, holding the camera on the harness.
Think the spring made it flex a little more at the bottom than w/out it. You be the judge...
I left the video in there so maybe someone else might come up w/ something better.

I can NOT imagine NOT trying THIS, over buying a complete new harness and removing the whole interior/console/dash of the car to replace it....Imagine how many things will break ALL over the car, when you're taking ALL of that shit apart...
That's just idiotic!
Probably why the one guy was w/out his car for 60 days....Because they had to keep special ordering crazy obscure shit direct from Korea, that broke along the way...

If anything, I'd buy the ass end of that harness, from a junk yard, cut that 2 foot bit out of it, and solder the WHOLE thing/every wire, up close to where I did the repair, and solder it to the other end, giving you 2 extra feet of flex/slack....but THAT might cause even MORE problems with pinching/rubbing on the body/hinge or something?


Hope this wasn't TOO long winded and rambly....And I write things down like how I talk....
I'm SURE my wife would FLUNK me for my sentence structure. (a writing Teacher)
That's just how I am...lol

Hope this helps!

Genesis Trunk wiring harness · Saturday, Nov 21, 2020 📸

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McGyver9,

Thank you SO VERY much for taking the time to share this detailed repair - my rear camera also stopped working - I already bought a replacement camera (only to find that this did not solve the problem). I was at my wits end when I happen across your WONDERFUL article - Thank you ! As soon as I get a nice worm day - I too will tackle this job.... but now with some great directions !! Bless you !!

 

[Securace]

Just for anyone else searching around who has a V8 BH sedan, this seems to be the same issue. Funny enough for me my camera went out, but it was due to water coming in where the actual lens is. This was fixed by the same person who put in an aftermarket remote start for me, and all was well. Fast forward a year, within the last month, I've had issues of cranking and no starting, sometimes total loss of power. Besides doing the positive battery terminal fix that otherwise plagues the BH and DH, which fixed total loss of power - I noticed I had to wiggle the connectors coming off the negative battery terminal temp sensor. Tracing it back, cutting all the tubing, the blue ECU wire horrifying enough, went to that very same harness and around the bend of the arm for the trunk.

I am going to take more trim off and look this weekend, but based on me literally having to wiggle/flex the harness to get it going - it seems to be a similar weak point, curious to see if I find other wires, explaining other random electrical issues I've noticed. Thank you so much McGyver9 for the detailed post, I was really running out of hope when I saw the harness at first, did not assume they would engineer a bend that bad haha