Battery Life

[QuantumRift]

Having lived in SE ARizona for nearly 25 years, HEAT is the KILLER of batteries. 100+ air temps, and heat coming off pavement when idlingin traffic at 200 deg or higher....HEAT is the killer. HEAT. Cold weather only slows down the chemical process the battery uses to produce electricity, but a failing battery with iffy internal connections and shorting/bad/open plates will die a slow death.
I believe you are talking about 'sulfation'...and that occurs in a (lead acid) battery when it is deprived of a full charge.

What is sulfation? During use, small sulfate crystals form, but these are normal and are not harmful. During prolonged charge deprivation, however, the amorphous lead sulfate converts to a stable crystalline and deposits on the negative plates. This leads to the development of large crystals that reduce the battery’s active material, which is responsible for the performance.

There are two types of sulfation: reversible (or soft sulfation), and permanent (or hard sulfation). If a battery is serviced early, reversible sulfation can often be corrected by applying an overcharge to an already fully charged battery in the form of a regulated current of about 200mA. The battery terminal voltage is allowed to rise to between 2.50 and 2.66V/cell (15 and 16V on a 12V mono block) for about 24 hours. Increasing the battery temperature to 50–60°C (122–140°F) during the corrective service further helps in dissolving the crystals.

Permanent sulfation sets in when the battery has been in a low state-of-charge for weeks or months. At this stage, no form of restoration seems possible; however, the recovery yield is not fully understood. To everyone’s amazement, new lead acid batteries can often be fully restored after dwelling in a low-voltage condition for many weeks. Other factors may play a role.

A subtle indication whether lead acid can be recovered or not is visible on the voltage discharge curve. If a fully charged battery retains a stable voltage profile on discharge, chances of reactivation are better than if the voltage drops rapidly with load.

It's also helpful to know that the electrolyte freezing point in a FULLY CHARGED battery is about -76 deg F. A battery that is discharged, can freeze at 32 deg F down to maybe 10 deg F. When it freezes, the water in the electrolyte will expand and can crack the case or expand and break connections and bust connections across the plates. And the truth is, that there is only a very small difference between a FULLY charged battery and a DEAD battery. If you want to learn more, check out Battery University:

Measuring State-of-charge - Battery University

Quant

You are correct, cold weather reduces the cranking ability of a battery but they don't actually generate electricity they store energy that was generated by the alternator and stored in the battery.
The most common causes for a battery failure are from sludge build up and stratification. Sludge builds as a battery ages and goes through cycles of charging and discharging the plates shed material and this builds to a point where it will create a short and cause a dead cell. Stratification is when a battery has not been charged correctly at a high enough voltage or has been sitting and the acid actually separates from the water creating a weak solution on top and a reduced storage ability.
The only real difference between flooded cell and AGM Batteries are that instead of a liquid the water acid mix is basically in a fiberglass mat like a sponge. This configuration is to minimize evaporation, self discharge and stratification issues which is why they handle deeper discharges and heat better than a flooded cell battery.
I know there are deep cycle (thick plates), cranking (thin plates), marine/hybrid (medium plates) batteries but you got my attention with the North/South batteries, this is a first for me as I have never heard of such an animal.

 

[justincheckin]

I bought the 2011 new and still on the original battery. I have about 44k miles on long/weekend driving. I noticed the battery drained constantly (within a couple of days not driving it with alarm off) when the check engine light came on while I had an ECM issue last year (fixed at dealer for $2700).

Bought a Norco battery charger to keep it charged while I procrastinate on the cost of fixing the ECM.

Once fixed, battery was good again after topping off. Starts fine after 2 weeks parked, it's been 9 months since the fix and still good.

 

[QuantumRift]

That's good. However, invest in a load tester and really CHECK your battery's load capability (or have it done at any local parts shop). At that age, you are really living on borrowed time, and you don't want it to fail at bad time (which they usually do).

I bought the 2011 new and still on the original battery. I have about 44k miles on long/weekend driving. I noticed the battery drained constantly (within a couple of days not driving it with alarm off) when the check engine light came on while I had an ECM issue last year (fixed at dealer for $2700).

Bought a Norco battery charger to keep it charged while I procrastinate on the cost of fixing the ECM.

Once fixed, battery was good again after topping off. Starts fine after 2 weeks parked, it's been 9 months since the fix and still good.

 

[triplington]

A few weeks ago my factory original 2012 R spec AGM battery died, no warning at all. The day before it cranked at normal speed, the next time nothing. I jumped it with a Li-ion starter thinking it would get me home running on the alternator - I was wrong. The running engine died just as I was turning a corner. I re-jumped it and got home, luckily it wasn't far. Bought an Advanced Auto Autocraft Platinum AGM for $160.

 

[Mark_888]

A few weeks ago my factory original 2012 R spec AGM battery died, no warning at all. The day before it cranked at normal speed, the next time nothing. I jumped it with a Li-ion starter thinking it would get me home running on the alternator - I was wrong. The running engine died just as I was turning a corner. I re-jumped it and got home, luckily it wasn't far. Bought an Advanced Auto Autocraft Platinum AGM for $160.

Sounds like your battery most likely suffered internal physical damage, compromising the integrity of some of the individual cells and stopping the chemical reactions that make a battery work.

 

[PMCErnie]

There are certainly a lot of gamblers out there.

 

[Rawhide]

I was wondering about the battery condition in my 4 year old Genesis R spec. Most of the time, it is attached to a battery tender since it does not get driven that often. Right now, it has around 6,000 miles on it. Last week, when I finished driving about 120 miles and attached my battery tender, I was surprised to see that it took approximately 3 hours for it to become fully charged. Is this normal? Are all batteries like this? So far, it always fires up normally.

I was thinking, after driving those many miles that the battery would already be fully charged just from driving. Even when I only drive it a few miles (20 or less) it takes about 45 minutes to fully charge. By fully charged, I mean the indicator on the battery tender turns from red to green. Is any one familiar with this?

 

[Gunkk]

Rawhide your battery is probably toast. Charging circuit issues are pretty rare with these cars.

I only got 5 years out of batteries in both my cars.

 

[QuantumRift]

You need to invest in a battery LOAD tester and CHECK the battery. OR just stop by any autoparts store and they will LOAD TEST the battery for you. After 120 miles of driving the battery should be fully charged. A battery 'tender' is NOT a (trickle charger)...this is prob overkill but the difference between a trickle charger and a battery tender is that a trickle charger constantly applies a charge, whether the battery is fully charged or not. A battery tender, on the other hand, has circuitry that monitors the battery and charges only when the voltage has dropped below a preset level, thus preventing overcharging and damage. When the tender detects the battery voltage has dropped, it will start charging the battery. Because of this a battery tender can be left connected indefinitely.
These cars, even sitting, have a constant 'load' on the battery - the electronics (such that it is) in the alarm, etc. The small load on the battery sitting there can 'offset' the tender, as the batt charge can drop a bit, and the tender will kick on to try and charge the battery - then it's trying to charge against the small drain caused by the electronics.

Yea, I could say the battery is failing, however, it doesn't take but a few seconds to GET IT TESTED so you can KNOW for sure. Ideally, a load test AND measuring the specific gravity of each cell should be done - I like to do it once a month, but even so, a battery can fail suddenly even without warning (of less and less load capability or specific gravity failing in a cell).

Get it tested.

I was wondering about the battery condition in my 4 year old Genesis R spec. Most of the time, it is attached to a battery tender since it does not get driven that often. Right now, it has around 6,000 miles on it. Last week, when I finished driving about 120 miles and attached my battery tender, I was surprised to see that it took approximately 3 hours for it to become fully charged. Is this normal? Are all batteries like this? So far, it always fires up normally.

I was thinking, after driving those many miles that the battery would already be fully charged just from driving. Even when I only drive it a few miles (20 or less) it takes about 45 minutes to fully charge. By fully charged, I mean the indicator on the battery tender turns from red to green. Is any one familiar with this?

 

[QuantumRift]

One good think to carry with you is a "Super (or Ultra) Jumpstart Capacitor pack". There are many on the market, but the (great) idea behind it is that you CAN jump start your own car WITH your own "dead" battery.

They are not expensive and work quite well. I've had the opportunity to use one on two occasions (not for my car).

Check it out...

Q

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[PMCErnie]

You need to invest in a battery LOAD tester and CHECK the battery. OR just stop by any autoparts store and they will LOAD TEST the battery for you. After 120 miles of driving the battery should be fully charged. A battery 'tender' is NOT a (trickle charger)...this is prob overkill but the difference between a trickle charger and a battery tender is that a trickle charger constantly applies a charge, whether the battery is fully charged or not. A battery tender, on the other hand, has circuitry that monitors the battery and charges only when the voltage has dropped below a preset level, thus preventing overcharging and damage. When the tender detects the battery voltage has dropped, it will start charging the battery. Because of this a battery tender can be left connected indefinitely.
These cars, even sitting, have a constant 'load' on the battery - the electronics (such that it is) in the alarm, etc. The small load on the battery sitting there can 'offset' the tender, as the batt charge can drop a bit, and the tender will kick on to try and charge the battery - then it's trying to charge against the small drain caused by the electronics.

Yea, I could say the battery is failing, however, it doesn't take but a few seconds to GET IT TESTED so you can KNOW for sure. Ideally, a load test AND measuring the specific gravity of each cell should be done - I like to do it once a month, but even so, a battery can fail suddenly even without warning (of less and less load capability or specific gravity failing in a cell).

Get it tested.

Great tip. I stopped by Auto Zone today to get a free battery load test for my '14 Santa Fe Sport. They also check the starter and the alternator. A-OK with the testing. I'll do the Genesis next time. It only took about 10 minutes.

 

[G-239491]

I just started my 7th year with my 2010 3.8 sedan and still have the original battery (which checks out OK). Any input on how long I can expect the battery to last? Car is garaged in Williamsburg, VA.

Hope I don't jinks myself but I bought the 2009 Genesis, bought it in August 2008, and I still have the same battery. I live in Mass and it gets kind of cold in the winter, I don't garage it and I haven't any problems with it.

 

[justincheckin]

That's good. However, invest in a load tester and really CHECK your battery's load capability (or have it done at any local parts shop). At that age, you are really living on borrowed time, and you don't want it to fail at bad time (which they usually do).

Yes borrowed time indeed. My dealer tested it during oil change and it failed the test. BUT still running so far. I now have a lithium jumper in the trunk just in case. Costco now sells Interstate AGMs for the car - so I'll be replacing it with one down the road.

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

Yes borrowed time indeed. My dealer tested it during oil change and it failed the test. BUT still running so far. I now have a lithium jumper in the trunk just in case. Costco now sells Interstate AGMs for the car - so I'll be replacing it with one down the road.

I would change it sooner than later, as you know these cars have lots of electronics. IMO the computers are happy with good supply of voltages.

 

[Jkon]

can this load testing be done from under the hood at the (+) (-) terminals or is it better to be directly onto the battery in the trunk?? will be looking to do this soon on my 16...Thanks

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

can this load testing be done from under the hood at the (+) (-) terminals or is it better to be directly onto the battery in the trunk?? will be looking to do this soon on my 16...Thanks

Need to go directly to battery.

 

[Jkon]

Need to go directly to battery.

Thanks kraig... Will do

 

[Kraig Wilkinson]

Thanks kraig... Will do

You are welcome. Dont want you to melt anything, I have seen crazier stuff happen! Good luck with everything.