Brake fluid: Drain and Fill vs Flush

[glennk]

Went to the dealer today for an oil change (33,750) and they wanted me to get a "BG Brake Fluid Flush" for $150. I abruptly said, "no, next time". I came home doing research and most automakers recommend a fluid change every 3 to 4 years. The real question is, what the heck is the difference between a "drain and fill" (also called "Full Brake Fluid Exchange") and a "flush"? And, is BG important? $150 seems way too expensive. What is more reasonable?

 

[carguy75]

Most brake fluid exchange jobs are flushes(bleeding). I have never heard of drain and fill for brake fluid, however a person could only remove the old brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir and top it off with fresh fluid which no shop should do.

BG makes some good fluid and you do have to pay labor to do the job so the $150 price seems fair I suppose. I do my own brake fluid flushes and use ATE dot 4 brake fluid so my cost is more like $20 after I bought the correct brake fluid bleeding tool made by Motive.

 

[glennk]

Quoted $59 at Pep Boys using Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 fluid.

 

[Suburbazine]

You don't want to do a drain and fill. You'll pay out the nose to get all the air purged from the system. A "flush" vacuums the brake fluid from each caliper while new fluid is poured in the reservoir. It's much faster, gets more dirt out and prevents air bubbles from being trapped somewhere.

 

[glennk]

So, I swung by Pep Boys and they tested both the antifreeze and brake fluid. There was no contamination or oxidation in the brake fluid. There was no copper nor any electrical conductivity in the antifreeze. Mechanic said I didn't need anything done at this time! Very frustrated with the dealer trying to swindle me.

 

[EdP]

So, I swung by Pep Boys and they tested both the antifreeze and brake fluid. There was no contamination or oxidation in the brake fluid. There was no copper nor any electrical conductivity in the antifreeze. Mechanic said I didn't need anything done at this time! Very frustrated with the dealer trying to swindle me.

Many of them try that crap. Go by the manual, not the dealer recommendation.

 

[Suburbazine]

If your antifreeze isn't electrically conductive something is wrong with the test lol.

 

[glennk]

If your antifreeze isn't electrically conductive something is wrong with the test lol.

Apparently, metal particulates within the coolant can develop an electric charge and damage aluminum parts of the radiator.

 

[glennk]

Many of them try that crap. Go by the manual, not the dealer recommendation.

Problem is, there isn't a change interval listed for the brake fluid. I was always told that when you do service on the brakes (new pads/rotors), you always replaced the fluid and bled the system.

As for the antifreeze/coolant, I'll stick to the 10 year/120,000 mile interval in the manual...unless, I start to have problems with the thermostat or the water pump.

 

[charliet1948]

Just check the color if it's brown, get a turkey baster and suck out as much fluid from the master cylinder as possilbe then naturally replace it. I just bought a 2015 noticed inside the master cylinder there was a reddish insert that didn't allow me to insert a tube or baster to draw out the fluid.

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[charliet1948]

Most brake fluid exchange jobs are flushes(bleeding). I have never heard of drain and fill for brake fluid, however a person could only remove the old brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir and top it off with fresh fluid which no shop should do.

BG makes some good fluid and you do have to pay labor to do the job so the $150 price seems fair I suppose. I do my own brake fluid flushes and use ATE dot 4 brake fluid so my cost is more like $20 after I bought the correct brake fluid bleeding tool made by Motive.

 

[charliet1948]

A lot of people do the drain and fill in the master cylinder since most of the fluid is there. A question for you just bought a 2015 and I noticed a reddish insert inside the master cylinder. I wanted to do that drain and fill that I mentioned, was afraid of forcing that insert. Any ideas

 

[3.3 Rulz]

Drain and fill is useless, it leaves the old fluid in the lines, get a flush done, any shop can do it, I get mine done at BrakeMasters every two years on my cars.

 

[TinsleyC]

Just check the color if it's brown, get a turkey baster and suck out as much fluid from the master cylinder as possilbe then naturally replace it.

But that leaves the old fluid in the lines and calipers. Understand that the fluid doesn't "flow" from the reservoir to the brakes, it is only used to transfer braking pressure from the brake pedal to the calipers, to close the calipers when braking.

You need to open the brake bleed valves at each caliper and use the brake pedal to push the old fluid out, replacing the old with new fluid, filling the reservoir as you go, being carful to not allow air to enter the line. It's not hard to do, but best done with two people. Or just take it in and have it done.

 

[carguy75]

A lot of people do the drain and fill in the master cylinder since most of the fluid is there. A question for you just bought a 2015 and I noticed a reddish insert inside the master cylinder. I wanted to do that drain and fill that I mentioned, was afraid of forcing that insert. Any ideas

The red plastic mesh filter can be pulled out with some pliers by pulling on the outer edges and working your way around until it gives. I removed mine so that I could test my brake fluid with a meter, but pulling with pliers does damage the thin plastic so be careful. I warped the filter edges, but it fit back it place. My fluid was good per the meter so I did not flush the brake fluid.

I probably could have just left the red mesh filter off, but I put my back it place since it is there for reason. However, my other cars do not have a filter in the brake fluid reservoir and they work just fine.

 

[Bud71]

Some good maintenance information here...thank you all. I have a basic question on a 2015 5.0 coming up for a 50k dealer maintenance trip. The vehicle has the 100k extended warranty on it.

Without affecting the warranty, what can I do myself to save $$$ without effecting the warranty? I asked the dealer once if there was any problem with getting the oil change done elsewhere and there response was "as long as it's a certified mechanic."

I was all set to do brake flush, all filters, brakes, and rotors on my own....but now worried about negatively impacting the warranty. Thanks for your input!

 

[EdP]

Some good maintenance information here...thank you all. I have a basic question on a 2015 5.0 coming up for a 50k dealer maintenance trip. The vehicle has the 100k extended warranty on it.

Without affecting the warranty, what can I do myself to save $$$ without effecting the warranty? I asked the dealer once if there was any problem with getting the oil change done elsewhere and there response was "as long as it's a certified mechanic."

I was all set to do brake flush, all filters, brakes, and rotors on my own....but now worried about negatively impacting the warranty. Thanks for your input!

I can't see the fine print of your warranty from here, but I'd do the work myself. Putting in an air filter is not going to void the transmission warranty.

 

[carguy75]

Some good maintenance information here...thank you all. I have a basic question on a 2015 5.0 coming up for a 50k dealer maintenance trip. The vehicle has the 100k extended warranty on it.

Without affecting the warranty, what can I do myself to save $$$ without effecting the warranty? I asked the dealer once if there was any problem with getting the oil change done elsewhere and there response was "as long as it's a certified mechanic."

I was all set to do brake flush, all filters, brakes, and rotors on my own....but now worried about negatively impacting the warranty. Thanks for your input!

As long as you keep a service log of the maintenance with receipts for parts purchased(or service performed) then you will be fine having the work done outside the dealership whether done by you or a independent repair shop..

The only issue that would void your warranty coverage would be from a service performed incorrectly that the dealer has to rectify. Therefore, make sure that you or a independent repair shop perform the service correctly as the dealer will not correct your(or any independent repair shop) mistakes under warranty.

 

[skipgen]

So, I swung by Pep Boys and they tested both the antifreeze and brake fluid. There was no contamination or oxidation in the brake fluid. There was no copper nor any electrical conductivity in the antifreeze. Mechanic said I didn't need anything done at this time! Very frustrated with the dealer trying to swindle me.

That's how they make their money, unfortunately by trying to sell you unnecessary services... Kinda surprised that a Pep Boys was so forthcoming!