Brake job - Have dealer do it, find an independent shop, or do it myself?

[EatMyBullet]

See dealer quote below.

Just the brake job is close to $2000. I've done full pad/rotors on my other vehicles so I'm not too worried about doing this myself. The rotors still look amazing so I don't feel like they need any work done to them. Just replacing pads.

What are your thoughts? Would a dealer doing it be any better than an independent shop? Is that price wild?

 

[EdP]

See dealer quote below.

Just the brake job is close to $2000. I've done full pad/rotors on my other vehicles so I'm not too worried about doing this myself. The rotors still look amazing so I don't feel like they need any work done to them. Just replacing pads.

What are your thoughts? Would a dealer doing it be any better than an independent shop? Is that price wild?

View attachment 56951

No way would I pay that.
Last time I got brakes the local shop was $200/axle the dealer was $300. Now that was a good 10 years ago so add another hundred or so.

 

[JEBIV]

I do my own, piece of cake

 

[Volfy]

If your rotors look good, just get them resurfaced when you change pads. My local O-Reilly's does a beautiful job for $25/rotor.

Regular alignment checks are never a bad idea, though not necessary for a brake job. I got life time alignment for less than $200 per car. Way better than paying $150 for 1-time check.

 

[tCizzler]

It's up to you how you want to handle your rotors, but mine shook like hell. I replaced just the pads and the shaking went away immediately. I did NOT get my rotors cut/resurfaced. I saw others that were saying it was the pads causing the shaking. So I took the chance, got new yellow stuff pads (red stuff seems to be on an indefinite worldwide backorder), and I no longer get the shakes. Only downside is that now I have to clean my wheels weekly, at a minimum. The stock pads are very low dust. Aftermarket, not so much.

 

[blnewto]

It's up to you how you want to handle your rotors, but mine shook like hell. I replaced just the pads and the shaking went away immediately. I did NOT get my rotors cut/resurfaced. I saw others that were saying it was the pads causing the shaking. So I took the chance, got new yellow stuff pads (red stuff seems to be on an indefinite worldwide backorder), and I no longer get the shakes. Only downside is that now I have to clean my wheels weekly, at a minimum. The stock pads are very low dust. Aftermarket, not so much.

If I'm not turning the rotors I'll scrub them down w/ some new 3m scotchbrite pads, does a good job removing old deposits and prepares the rotors w/ a fresh surface for the new pads.

 

[Volfy]

If I'm not turning the rotors I'll scrub them down w/ some new 3m scotchbrite pads, does a good job removing old deposits and prepares the rotors w/ a fresh surface for the new pads.

If your rotors are nice and smooth, with no heavy grooving or pitting, you might be okay without turning the rotors. It is a bit of a gamble. On my last pad change, I didn't turn my rotors, since there looked excellent. Well, the rears were okay, the fronts protested my scrooginess by making pulsating noises, during the initial pad seating process. I didn't want to risk the EBC Bluestuff (front pads were some $230), so off with the rotors and O'Reilly's turned the 2 fronts for $50. Reinstalled and... Buttery smooth.

So. While it's okay to play the dice... do keep a close eye and ear on them, while you seat-in the new pads. You should do that regardless of whether the rotors are turned or brand new.

 

[Husky]

See dealer quote below.

Just the brake job is close to $2000. I've done full pad/rotors on my other vehicles so I'm not too worried about doing this myself. The rotors still look amazing so I don't feel like they need any work done to them. Just replacing pads.

What are your thoughts? Would a dealer doing it be any better than an independent shop? Is that price wild?

View attachment 56951

That's an insane price. Do it yourself and save about $1500 (depending on the pads you choose).

 

[Jlapaglia]

I was quoted about $2,500 for mine. I chose to buy a dynamic friction rotor and pad kit off rock auto and do it myself for less than $400. Only issue I had was getting the rotor screws off. It required the purchase of an impact screw driver thing from harbor freight. It’s robbery what they charge for a brake job these days.

 

[Terdbath]

I don't think I have ever paid for a brake job in my life. Even 30 years ago they would cost triple or quadruple what you can do if for on your own.

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[EdP]

I don't think I have ever paid for a brake job in my life. Even 30 years ago they would cost triple or quadruple what you can do if for on your own.

I could have said the same at one time. Then your body gets older and you find it is easier to write a check than to pull wheels off,.

 

[Volfy]

I paid for a brake job exactly once. This was on my very first car, on the way home from buying it, the brakes went out. I mean, no brakes, pedal dropped to the floor, dead. I was lucky I didn't kill somebody, or myself. It happened 2 blocks from a Chevy dealer, so I had little choice but to go there. Back then, I had no idea what they fixed, only that they charged me some $500. This was the mid '80s and I was a poor college student. $500 was a butt load of money I couldn't afford.

I swore to myself then, that would be the last time I got taken for a sucker. Started learning how to work on cars. Since then, that has extended to motorcycles, home building & repairs, and just about everything else in everyday life.

It has been more than 35yrs, and I've kept that promise to myself. To this day, I thank that POS Ford Mustang and that Chevy dealer... for providing me with the motivation to be a DIYer.

 

[blnewto]

I paid for a brake job exactly once. This was on my very first car, on the way home from buying it, the brakes went out. I mean, no brakes, pedal dropped to the floor, dead. I was lucky I didn't kill somebody, or myself. It happened 2 blocks from a Chevy dealer, so I had little choice but to go there. Back then, I had no idea what they fixed, only that they charged me some $500. This was the mid '80s and I was a poor college student. $500 was a butt load of money I couldn't afford.

I swore to myself then, that would be the last time I got taken for a sucker. Started learning how to work on cars. Since then, that has extended to motorcycles, home building & repairs, and just about everything else in everyday life.

It has been more than 35yrs, and I've kept that promise to myself. To this day, I thank that POS Ford Mustang and that Chevy dealer... for providing me with the motivation to be a DIYer.

X2, always DIY brakes and most other services, don't want anyone else farting in my car! Also hate having to re-torque or go over everything that's been done by others.

 

[Volfy]

I could have said the same at one time. Then your body gets older and you find it is easier to write a check than to pull wheels off,.

I know, one day, that will apply to me too. I also know that day is not today... and won't be for as long as I can muster the strength - and ibuprofen - to pump my floor jacks.

 

[rakker]

I laughed when the dude told me that the brake job would cost me $2k when buying the car (he was trying to sell me one of those packages). You can get new pads and rotors for less than $600 and do it yourself. I did it on my Stinger a few times, pretty easy job.

 

[deilenberger]

What in the world does the "Air/Fuel Induction System Cleaning" for $244.99 consist of? A bottle of Techron added to the fuel tank?

In over 60 years of doing my own wrenching, I've never had rotors turned. I'd be surprised that a dealer would suggest that since the warranty for that work falls on them if there is an issue. If the rotors need turning (only needed if you ignore the pad warning lights and run the pads down to metal so you have metal-to-metal contact) - then they actually need replacement. Turning used rotors will likely bring them to close to or under the manufacturer's minimum specified thickness. I know there are scads of alternative rotors (and pads) available for Porsches, given the number of vehicles Genesis is selling I imagine the same is true for your G70.

BTW - OP, have you looked at your brakes and pads? Thickness? I had a Lexus dealer try to sell a brake job on brakes I'd redone about 3,000 miles before it went in for a warranty issue. Most owners have no clue what the spec's are and will just accept a "professional's" pronouncement on the issue. If the brake pad warning light hasn't come on - and the brakes seem to be working normally, I'd just forgeddaboutit.. that and the cleaning BS they're trying to sell.

And why was an alignment done? Did the car pull to one side, and drift while going straight? Why an alignment? Most cars with the design of the front-end suspension that Genesis is using (very similar to BMW's strut suspensions) have no alignment capabilities. If something is out of wack (tech-term), pulling, or weird tire wear - you look for the bent/loose part and replace it.

 

[blinkenjim]

I could have said the same at one time. Then your body gets older and you find it is easier to write a check than to pull wheels off,.

I laughed when the dude told me that the brake job would cost me $2k when buying the car (he was trying to sell me one of those packages). You can get new pads and rotors for less than $600 and do it yourself. I did it on my Stinger a few times, pretty easy job.

That‘s outrageous.

See dealer quote below.

Just the brake job is close to $2000. I've done full pad/rotors on my other vehicles so I'm not too worried about doing this myself. The rotors still look amazing so I don't feel like they need any work done to them. Just replacing pads.

What are your thoughts? Would a dealer doing it be any better than an independent shop? Is that price wild?

View attachment 56951

I just had my pads replaced by the dealer. No rotor service. $300 to install the pads I had purchased (Redstuff, $350).

 

[lobewiper1]

You need to find a different dealer. Mine "only" wanted $1600 for pads, new front rotors, and to resurface rears. Don't know why you wouldn't do them yourself. My parts cost for new rotors and premium ceramic pads (Bosch) was $375. It might be worth cost of having dealer just flush brake lines and master cylinder, but if your brake fluid is still light in color and clear, no reason to change it.

 

[JCtx]

Brake fluid absorbs moisture, so it's always better to change it, even if it still looks relatively clear. As far as changing the rear pads, we reportedly have to do some kind of electronic parking brake retraction first, via a scanner, right? The issue is that most scanners (at least not the stupid expensive ones) only cover vehicles like 4 to 5 years old. Fortunately, my car shouldn't need it before that age, but just curious, like if you want to change pads or something. Thanks.

 

[lobewiper1]

Brake fluid absorbs moisture, so it's always better to change it, even if it still looks relatively clear. As far as changing the rear pads, we reportedly have to do some kind of electronic parking brake retraction first, via a scanner, right? The issue is that most scanners (at least not the stupid expensive ones) only cover vehicles like 4 to 5 years old. Fortunately, my car shouldn't need it before that age, but just curious, like if you want to change pads or something. Thanks.

Great info regarding moisture brake fluid. As mine is 6 years old now, it's definitely due! As for changing rear pads, I just made sure the parking brakes were not engaged and the rear rotors came right off. As I never use the parking brake, my parking brake shoes were like new and did not need adjusting or replacing.