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Burger Motorsports JB4 high performance tuner for Genesis vehicles

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I am really starting to do my research...and the whole spark plug thing is a royal PITFA. Not sure if I want to attempt doing it myself. The biggest issue is the middle plug on the passenger side. There are videos, etc...but I have no clue what I am doing...never done it before. Worried I will break something.

I have gone to 3 local shops thus far...and all of them want over $300 to install the plugs. WTF ?!?! I am not paying that...not worth it to me. I thought I could pay someone like $75 or something. Jeez.

So...unless I find someone who can knock this out without removing that whole manifold thingee...I might not do this at all :(

Now...to get a bit more specific...the G70 is different than the Stinger in the following way. In the below picture of a Stinger...I have 2 arrows pointing at the bolts you have to loosen to remove the rubber housing. This is if you want to do it the long way. The Stinger simply has flat-head screws that loosen. The G70 is different !!! It is more advanced. It uses those screws that you torque down and the head breaks off once tightened. So no way to remove it without clipping it off. Then you have to get new ones to replace them. Dear Lord.

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The Stinger and G70 have identical engines. Whomever you got that picture from they've already swapped the stock bolts out for the ones shown.

To remove the stock bolts all you have to do is pop the cap off with a flat head screwdriver. It's just a cover over the screw.

Also, the plugs can be done without removing the manifold. There are videos on YouTube showing it. It's alot quicker than Tork Motorsport's video.

For what it's worth I ran the JB4 on stock plugs and Map 1 for a couple thousand miles and it worked fine. I didn't re-gap my plugs until my need for speed eclipsed my fear of removing the manifold (before we knew it didn't have to come off).
 
The Stinger and G70 have identical engines. Whomever you got that picture from they've already swapped the stock bolts out for the ones shown.

To remove the stock bolts all you have to do is pop the cap off with a flat head screwdriver. It's just a cover over the screw.

Also, the plugs can be done without removing the manifold. There are videos on YouTube showing it. It's alot quicker than Tork Motorsport's video.

For what it's worth I ran the JB4 on stock plugs and Map 1 for a couple thousand miles and it worked fine. I didn't re-gap my plugs until my need for speed eclipsed my fear of removing the manifold (before we knew it didn't have to come off).
Oh really? This one mechanic was telling me that it was a special type clamp where screw head breaks off, etc. When you look at the top of it on the G70...it's almost cone shaped. So you are saying that little metal cone pops off and there is a screw head actually under it?

BTW...that picture is me taking a screen shot of the video of the guy doing it the "quick" way :)

Also...in regards to the plugs...none of the mechanics say they want to do it that way. They go by the book I suppose. So either I find a guy that will try it...or do it myself. I have never done this stuff. I don't even know how to remove the coil on top of the spark plug :( It's like a little box...with perhaps a 10mm bold beside it (I assume that removes it).

I guess to do it myself...I need some serious instructions from top to bottom. I have the tools (I think) and am handy...but very scared to break something.
 
Oh really? This one mechanic was telling me that it was a special type clamp where screw head breaks off, etc. When you look at the top of it on the G70...it's almost cone shaped. So you are saying that little metal cone pops off and there is a screw head actually under it?

BTW...that picture is me taking a screen shot of the video of the guy doing it the "quick" way :)

Also...in regards to the plugs...none of the mechanics say they want to do it that way. They go by the book I suppose. So either I find a guy that will try it...or do it myself. I have never done this stuff. I don't even know how to remove the coil on top of the spark plug :( It's like a little box...with perhaps a 10mm bold beside it (I assume that removes it).

I guess to do it myself...I need some serious instructions from top to bottom. I have the tools (I think) and am handy...but very scared to break something.

I just went out and took some pics.

The first shows what it looks like normally, except mine has been loosened, tightened, rotated, etc through various mods. You can see the two caps.

The second pic is after I pried the caps off with a flat head to expose the screws under it.

And the third pic is just what the cap looks like once removed.

(my hood blocks the light in the garage so the pic quality is bad)

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I was terrified to tackle the job as well. But I was also terrified that if I paid someone they would just say they did it and I'd have no way of knowing if they really did. So I did the necessary research and tackled it myself. I took my time, took pictures of where things needed to go, labeled certain parts and put them in Ziploc bags, etc. The hardest part was the following days dealing with the back ache from bending over the engine for so long.

The non-manifold-removing way should shred the time by half, at least.
 
Oh wow...so I those little buggers just snap back on I assume? Regardless...I am not doing the manifold-removing method. Watching the Torx guy do it made me mini vomit. That is just too much to handle.

So if I do anything...I might attempt to do it the quicker way. But I still need to find detailed instructions on how to actually remove those coils to expose the plugs.
 
Oh wow...so I those little buggers just snap back on I assume? Regardless...I am not doing the manifold-removing method. Watching the Torx guy do it made me mini vomit. That is just too much to handle.

So if I do anything...I might attempt to do it the quicker way. But I still need to find detailed instructions on how to actually remove those coils to expose the plugs.

The inside of the caps have the same hexagonal shape as the bolt heads. To reinstall then you just match them up and push them back onto the bolt.

The coils should be some of the easiest things to do for this. They're held on by a single bolt each. Once the bolt is out you can lift them straight out. Get a extension magnet just in case you drop a bolt though.

I briefly looked at a video of the easy way and if I remember correctly the drivers side is really easy. The passenger side requires some pretzel maneuvering of your tools so a wobbly and a socket extension will be beneficial.
 
^ Thank you very much for your help and tips. I'll just continue to PM you if I have anything. For now I think I am good.
 
Is this the kind of method that you guys are referring to?


Looks easy peezy with one or two universal joints! Haha. Wonder why Tork Motorsports doesn't do it this way. Oh well.
 
Are there any JB4 dealers in Orlando?
Would like to have this professionally installed.
Intake and suspension as well.
 
Hmmm...i gotta get in on this. Think I'll place my order this weekend. Trying to figure out how I'll pass this by the better half as a "maintenance" item. Maybe I'll just say I saved $19,000 not buying that M4 and this $1000 will get me equal or better performance. Regardless, I'm already hungry for more power! Test & tune opens this weekend, so time to get ready.
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Terry @ BMS,

Have you thought about tapping into the RPM control to manage RPM increases for launch control? Maybe a better way to ask is: Can you trick the RPM signal line to increase launch rpm to say 3k rpm? So the factory ECU only sees 2k rpm while the engine is at 3k, short shifting the car in 1st at 1,500 rpm short of red line to stay in a better torque power-band. All other gears would be factory controlled. Thoughts? Car still fills sluggish off Launch control rpm.
 
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I bet it's possible even with the stock turbo!
The original turbo for this engine on other vehicles was initially a bigger Mitsubishi one wasn't it?
And then for some reason they went smaller. So either the turbo was unreliable or the engine was unreliable with higher boost!
 
The original turbo for this engine on other vehicles was initially a bigger Mitsubishi one wasn't it?
And then for some reason they went smaller. So either the turbo was unreliable or the engine was unreliable with higher boost!

Another possibility is that a smaller turbo decreases spool times. That is, better throttle response.
 
Is the 2.0T the same as the Stinger? If so...the JB4 already works for it. Just need to get some feedback from Terry. Or ask around on the Stinger board.

 
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Quick update on my end. FINALLY found a shop that is down to earth and will replace the plugs for under $200. I can live with that. Might even be less. Problem is...he says if they do have to remove the manifold (the long way)...they need to replace the gasket which is $50. The Torx guys didn't replace it...but I guess better safe than sorry? Not sure if anyone here has an opinion. Car is so new...hmmm...dunno.

I am hoping they do the short cut method...or even find a trick of their own. Save myself time and that gasket.

I will be ordering the JB4 and the Denso plugs in the next week. Seems like the JB4 now comes with the fuel wires.
 
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