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Burger Motorsports JB4 high performance tuner for Genesis vehicles

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So, now that the temperature is really hot outside, looks like my ECU is dropping timing big time between 2500-3000 rpm (up to 6º!). Evidently my engine has a hot spot at that range when it's warm outside running on Map 2 and Portland 92 Octane gas (which I've read is actually really shite due to lack of state regulations, and is no better than 91).

Have not heard any knock, nor have I felt any significant drops in power, but I figure I'll switch back to Map 1 just to be extra safe. Been between 90-95 degrees out here. I'll focus on more power via bolt-ons for the time being.

Curious.. If the ECU is retarding timing, I would think it's either reacting to a bit of knock or there is some programming in the ecu that is automatically adjusting timing based on variables such as high IAT, ECT, load etc.. So... what I'm getting at... is that if the ECU is taking care of things, why worry? I would be interested to see when and how much the ECU retards timing with map 1 or even the stock maps. I'm sure it does and likely is pretty similar conditions.
 
Is it regarding the timing in just one cylinder or all?
Random drops in a single cylinder is fine.
 
Well not Exactly sure what I’m looking at how to figure out how to read these graphs but any insight would be most helpful. I suppose I should note also that here in Phoenix 1300 feet elevation the temperature is a balmy 110° right now 🔥


DB5B6D50-380D-48AF-B7A8-B2B1DCB8152F.png
 
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Curious.. If the ECU is retarding timing, I would think it's either reacting to a bit of knock or there is some programming in the ecu that is automatically adjusting timing based on variables such as high IAT, ECT, load etc.. So... what I'm getting at... is that if the ECU is taking care of things, why worry? I would be interested to see when and how much the ECU retards timing with map 1 or even the stock maps. I'm sure it does and likely is pretty similar conditions.


^This is a really question. I'll have to log several runs and compare between Map 0, 1, and 2. I may just be seeing something that was already there to deal with the increased IAT's. Hmmm...



Is it regarding the timing in just one cylinder or all?
Random drops in a single cylinder is fine.

All 6, almost exactly the same. It's possible this could actually be normal.

Also, you make a good point about just going fully custom boost. That may be the way to go.

But, at the same time, I'm also revisiting using water injection. I just would be taking a chance in that water only may not even yield any significant power gains over Map 2. But, maybe it's worth the chance!
 
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Well not Exactly sure what I’m looking at how to figure out how to read these graphs but any insight would be most helpful. I suppose I should note also that here in Phoenix 1300 feet elevation the temperature is a balmy 110° right now 🔥


View attachment 22124

Would be more helpful to add your ignition timing for each cylinder, or at least cyl #1, instead of the Average Advance. Also, seeing the actual boost would be ideal (though pre-boost looks about right).

AFR's look like your fuel wires are working properly.

Look at that IAT though! 140°!! Hot damn!

Which map are you using?
 
^This is a really question. I'll have to log several runs and compare between Map 0, 1, and 2. I may just be seeing something that was already there to deal with the increased IAT's. Hmmm...





All 6, almost exactly the same. It's possible this could actually be normal.

Also, you make a good point about just going fully custom boost. That may be the way to go.

But, at the same time, I'm also revisiting using water injection. I just would be taking a chance in that water only may not even yield any significant power gains over Map 2. But, maybe it's worth the chance!
So here's what I understand about knock from Terry...random drops in a single cylinder here and there is not of concern. Same as when all drop at the same time. This normally happens while spooling or between gear changes. If it happens under load, then back off the boost or increase Octane.
But if all cylinders cascade like a waterfall, it is bad.
"When looking at timing look at cyl 1-6 timing values and specifically for cylinders diverging from the rest during higher boost higher load runs."
 
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So here's what I understand about knock from Terry...random drops in a single cylinder here and there is not of concern. Same as when all drop at the same time. This normally happens while spooling or between gear changes. If it happens under load, then back off the boost or increase Octane.
But if all cylinders cascade like a waterfall, it is bad.
"When looking at timing look at cyl 1-6 timing values and specifically for cylinders diverging from the rest during higher boost higher load runs."

Definitely good info. Terry has a lot of experience tuning in general, but probably the most when it comes to this platform. I'll play it safe and consider it protection against knock in my case.

I still may do some side to side logs, comparing map 0, 1, and 2. Or maybe I'll just be lazy and do water injection and see how it goes.
 
Would be more helpful to add your ignition timing for each cylinder, or at least cyl #1, instead of the Average Advance. Also, seeing the actual boost would be ideal (though pre-boost looks about right).

AFR's look like your fuel wires are working properly.

Look at that IAT though! 140°!! Hot damn!

Which map are you using?

map 2 on 91 octane Costco fuel.

Here is ign 1 and Boost 2
Not sure I should have all of the ignition toggles on while I am logging or if they can be toggled afterwards as it records everything.
But to me this graph makes no sense the way it’s laid out.
A757D00E-173F-4A43-A2A7-339059F41B83.webp
 
map 2 on 91 octane Costco fuel.

Here is ign 1 and Boost 2
Not sure I should have all of the ignition toggles on while I am logging or if they can be toggled afterwards as it records everything.
But to me this graph makes no sense the way it’s laid out.
View attachment 22130
You can enable display parameter after the fact. And display WOT only.
Here's what you need for the basic read:
Pedal
Throttle
RPM
AFR
Boost
IAT
Ign1 (if you suspect knock, then Ign for all cylinders)

Best place for your logs to be analyzed is at N54Tech: Kia & Hyundai Turbo - N54Tech.com - International Turbo Racing Discussion
Post it in the sticky thread and Terry will have a look.
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Ok I’ll post the and let the guru get a look.
 
It’s weird the toggle shows boost but the graph shows it as pre-boost only other toggle I have is boost2

16506B6B-1C58-4F75-A406-375AF47F638F.webp
 
It’s weird the toggle shows boost but the graph shows it as pre-boost only other toggle I have is boost2
Yeah the interface and app is meant to be generic for all platforms.
 
The dials seem to show the max boost is about 18.5 not quite the 21 I was pushing on my Mini Cooper JCW

8A969336-E0EF-498E-80EC-BC96376A8773.webp
 
Ok so pre boost is boost right. Sorry forgot the image on the last post
Yup. You can toggle both and it will show you both turbos. Should be a very close match.
 
Yup. You can toggle both and it will show you both turbos. Should be a very close match.
Yes they seem to mirror each other almost identically so what do you think? Should I just leave it alone especially with these temperatures 115° and 91 octane not too bad a combination I suppose not like Toddasaurus has up in Portland
 
The dials seem to show the max boost is about 17.2 not quite the 21 I was pushing on my Mini Cooper JCW

Even max stock boost isn't an absolute number. It varies based on lots of things. So far the max recorded on the Stinger is 15.1psi but that is not throughout the rpm range. I think Terry mentioned somewhere that 18psi is the sweet spot for the stock turbos on pump gas.
Try 93 or 94 Octane.
Also if you use the mobile app, tap the Boost Gauge and it will show you the max Boost you achieved.
 
Even max stock boost isn't an absolute number. It varies based on lots of things. So far the max recorded on the Stinger is 15.1psi but that is not throughout the rpm range. I think Terry mentioned somewhere that 18psi is the sweet spot for the stock turbos on pump gas.
Try 93 or 94 Octane.
Also if you use the mobile app, tap the Boost Gauge and it will show you the max Boost you achieved.
Nice.
We don’t have 93 octane here. Max is 91 and it seems to do ok.
Your thoughts?
7ACDCC04-D977-4255-A3F2-A73E218B9DC3.webp
 
Nice.
We don’t have 93 octane here. Max is 91 and it seems to do ok.
Your thoughts?
View attachment 22134
How long have you been running Map2? Did give enough time for the ECU to adapt?
@Beefer should be able to tell you how long it takes before your car actually fully adapts to pump gas.
 
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