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Cabin Air Filter

Thank you guys. I am a new owner and new to the forum, but this thread helped so much.
I too used my knees to hold it up a bit, used a small flat head to jam it under the one end (closest to me) while pulling on the farther end with my finger (closer to the engine). It wiggled out very easily.
Before looking on the forum, I was about to pull out a hammer out of sheer frustration.
 
That "Stealer" wants to rip you off. I think the price at most dealerships is around $15. (Certainly less than $19) Even if the dealer tech changed it out, the price of the part and LABOR would not be $60.

My local Autozone will install them free if you buy from them. I don't know what they charge but are reasonable for most filters.
 
Just replaced mine today Used the Fram Fresh Breeze. Identical to the OEM filter as far as fit goes.

One note on the little control arm that connect to the glove box door. When I removed the two stops, the door dropped all the way down. That rod connects to a plunger that is supposed to, I guess, "dampen" the door from slamming down. Apparently during car assembly, the plunger cap wasn't connected to the cylinder. Only reason why I know this, is because my glove box door never came down at a controlled rate like it does now after I connected it all like its supposed to be. Odd.
 
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Just replaced mine. Read the manual, not much help. Read through this post....lots of help. Here is the deal, big flat blade screwdriver, needle nose pliers, flashlight. pry the clip out, grab it with the pliers, pull out and towards you about 1/2 inch, same on the other side, release the dampening lever near the console. Takes about 2 minutes if you know what you are doing. Took me 1/2 hour to find that point. BTW, it was filthy complete with dead june bugs.
 
Success on first try in under 5 mins to disassemble and install the new filter. Everyone is correct regarding the compartment needing to be halfway down. I used a narrow flathead screwdriver to pry the tabs outward while using my other hand to pull them toward me. The old filter was pretty scary...Thanks to you guys, I am now good to go!
 
Success on first try in under 5 mins to disassemble and install the new filter. Everyone is correct regarding the compartment needing to be halfway down. I used a narrow flathead screwdriver to pry the tabs outward while using my other hand to pull them toward me. The old filter was pretty scary...Thanks to you guys, I am now good to go!
I hope you didn't throw the old filter away. You might have won the Nobel prize in bio-chemistry if you had kept it.
 
I hope you didn't throw the old filter away. You might have won the Nobel prize in bio-chemistry if you had kept it.

No way. I have it on eBay for some entomologists and chemists to buy it and get the recognition. I'll just take the cash.
 
It's my turn to do mine soon.
Here is my simple six million dollar question to those who have done changing out their cabin a/f.
What did you replace with?
OEM or any garden cheapo variety that would work just as good?
I see price ranges from $40 (OEM) to as low as $9 listed on fleeBay.
 
Hell with no responses from no body :D
So I took a plunge ordering a Purolator filter instead.
This is the very first time so it took a bit longer than I expected to remove it, mostly from the new fasteners that took a bit of force to pull it out.
The OEM looks semi dusty with a couple of crickets logged on. :eek:
And guess what? the OEM has only half of the height of the one which replaces it.
 
I Also can't get the clips to disengage to change the cabin air filter. Even watched a "youtube" video which made it look easy. The clips won't move in then out as the video says, (and you can't really see as the area is so dark in the video.
The dealer here in Ft. Lauderdale charged $53.00 for filter / installation. I'll give my fingers a rest then try again.
have 27299miles on a 2010 4.6 loaded sedan.
 
I Also can't get the clips to disengage to change the cabin air filter. Even watched a "youtube" video which made it look easy. The clips won't move in then out as the video says, (and you can't really see as the area is so dark in the video.
The dealer here in Ft. Lauderdale charged $53.00 for filter / installation. I'll give my fingers a rest then try again.
have 27299miles on a 2010 4.6 loaded sedan.
The trick is that you have to close the glove box door as far as you can, while still allowing just enough room for your arm to fit in, before attempting to remove the clips. I lift weights so have fairly large forearms, and I had trouble with it.
 
Replaced at 60k miles. Lots of nasty stuff in here.


 
wow thats alot of debris. maybe i should get mine checked next time. i'm at 63k miles
Worse than debris, there is probably a lot of mold and mildew in there. You should change it about once per year. This is a DIY job. Instruction videos are on YouTube (and discussed in many threads).
 
Mine was the same, full of all kinds of stuff.

This affects the heating and cooling functions in your car. (as well as air quality)

My car had 53,000 miles on it.

I'd say every 2 years would be good.

I also never thought I'd ever bother changing a cabin air cleaner!!
 
Air does seem to get colder faster and smell fresher after changing it out.
 
Once a year after the peak of the high pollen season (June) or if you live in the deep south where high pollen count persists. Your sinus will thank you!
 
This is very late to the party, but a comment about changing the cabin air filter. It is behind the glove box which has been mentioned several times. One item to watch out for is the dashpot cylinder to the drivers side that you should disconnect to prevent pulling it out, (breaking it). It just presses out or in. This is the important comment; when you are pulling the clips out you need to hold the glove box about 1/2 way open. This is important because the clips have the rubber bumpers that stop the glovebox in the open position. IF YOU HOLD THE GLOVEBOX ALL THE WAY OPEN THERE IS NO SPACE TO SLIDE THE BUMPERS INTO AND YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO MOVE THEM. If you hold the box in the partially open position they pull easy. (Toward the middle and toward the passenger compartment). I forgot about the 1/2 open comment a previous poster had made. It is an important part of getting the tabs out. I use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry them towards the middle and a small wooden dowel that fits in the little depression to move them towards the passenger compartment at the same time. It is almost a 3 handed job but not really. It is very easy if you understand how they work, but remember not to have the GB all the way open. The bumper part is a but hard to get out all the way, you will need to juggle them around a bit. If you haven't disconnected the cylinder this is where you can mess it up as there are no stops to prevent the GB from swinging almost all the way to the floor. That is what exposes the filter cover and the filter. Easy and obvious how to get them out once you're to that point.
Bill
 
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