Cheap Oil Extractor From Walmart

[arcman]

Picked one of these up last week. 9L Manual Oil Pump Vacuum Oil Fluid Extractor Transfer Pump Car Fuel Petrol Coolant For Removing Engine Oil/Gear Oil/Coolant Fluid USA - Walmart.com Was $47 shipped but looks like they've gone up a couple bucks already.

I've been debating on modifying the undertray to get to the drain plug but my ramp situation sucks anyway so I thought I'd give this route a try.



Actually works quite well. The relief valve leaked, I fixed it by inserting a rubber plug in it's place and the included lines didn't fit snug worth a crap so I ended up buying a 5/16 hard plastic line with a couple short rubber hoses I had laying around to adapt to the top fitting. The 5/16" line was a better choice and is probably the largest line you can get down the dipstick pipe.

With a warm engine, just start pumping. Oil flowed immediately. After a minute or so, vacuum is lost so you pump another six or eight strokes. You'll end up doing this around ten times and surprisingly, it removed every bit of 7.3 qts. I think I wiggled the end around in the pan just once to get the remaining oil out.

Seeing it's a cheap knock-off (I guess they're all knock- offs), it's fairly well made and should last quite a while. Way easier than pulling the car on ramps and dropping the undertray. I can't imagine the $90-100 models work any better.

 

[skipgen]

I prefer the "old" gravity method... that way any particulates that accumulate in the bottom of the pan flow out..

Used to do my own, but having someone else do it for me is worth it. Only cost me about $100 for someone else to drop the panels, replace the filter and pour in 8 1/2 - 9 quarts of synthetic for the 5.0.

 

[jimmy buoy]

I've been using a large "extractor" similar to yours for years now. The pair of 8.1 Liter V8's in our boat hold more oil than my 5.0 Genesis, so it can handle the volume easily. The boat engines have remote oil filters on the top for easy access (pretty tough to get under those bad boys in the Engine Room. Too bad the 5.0 doesn't have the filter accessible on the top of the engine like our 2010 V6 Genny!

Any particulate matter that isn't suspended in the hot oil directly after being run is probably going to forever remain at the bottom of the pan anyway, so I'm not worried conducting a "gravity" drain. I'll never have to worry about stripping the plug or leaks developing from that area!

 

[carguy75]

I prefer the "old" gravity method... that way any particulates that accumulate in the bottom of the pan flow out..

Used to do my own, but having someone else do it for me is worth it. Only cost me about $100 for someone else to drop the panels, replace the filter and pour in 8 1/2 - 9 quarts of synthetic for the 5.0.

Same here, except that I spend about $50 for synthetic oil and about $11 for the filter. However, I change my oil every 4k miles since I will try to own this car until it reaches 200k miles or more; so I want the engine to look new on the inside with minimum wear.

How often do you change your oil?

 

[carguy75]

Picked one of these up last week. 9L Manual Oil Pump Vacuum Oil Fluid Extractor Transfer Pump Car Fuel Petrol Coolant For Removing Engine Oil/Gear Oil/Coolant Fluid USA - Walmart.com Was $47 shipped but looks like they've gone up a couple bucks already.

I've been debating on modifying the undertray to get to the drain plug but my ramp situation sucks anyway so I thought I'd give this route a try.

View attachment 28967View attachment 28973

Actually works quite well. The relief valve leaked, I fixed it by inserting a rubber plug in it's place and the included lines didn't fit snug worth a crap so I ended up buying a 5/16 hard plastic line with a couple short rubber hoses I had laying around to adapt to the top fitting. The 5/16" line was a better choice and is probably the largest line you can get down the dipstick pipe.

With a warm engine, just start pumping. Oil flowed immediately. After a minute or so, vacuum is lost so you pump another six or eight strokes. You'll end up doing this around ten times and surprisingly, it removed every bit of 7.3 qts. I think I wiggled the end around in the pan just once to get the remaining oil out.

Seeing it's a cheap knock-off (I guess they're all knock- offs), it's fairly well made and should last quite a while. Way easier than pulling the car on ramps and dropping the undertray. I can't imagine the $90-100 models work any better.

The pump method should be a good alternative to removing the panels, however did you change out the oil filter? I believe that you will need to remove the front panel to access the oil filter, so might as well just gravity drain unless you have a trick to access the oil filter from the top.

 

[arcman]

I had a small tray, 2"deep, 4" wide and 8" long that just fits under filter housing to change it out. Done with removing panels.

 

[carguy75]

I had a small tray, 2"deep, 4" wide and 8" long that just fits under filter housing to change it out. Done with removing panels.

I assume that you meant that the panels does "not" have to be removed while using the tray. If so, then good deal. Sound like a good solution for changing the oil and filter without removing the panels.

 

[skipgen]

Same here, except that I spend about $50 for synthetic oil and about $11 for the filter. However, I change my oil every 4k miles since I will try to own this car until it reaches 200k miles or more; so I want the engine to look new on the inside with minimum wear.

How often do you change your oil?

About every 6k.

 

[arcman]

Carguy...

That's correct. There's just enough room to get the tray under the filter housing, getting the filter off and not spilling any oil. Might not work with a V8 though. Not sure how much room there is between the motor and fan.

Place a paper towel temporarily under the housing after replacing the filter as oil on the threads will slowly seep out. I assume that's why there's a hole cut in the front panel from the factory.

This is so much more convenient than raising the car. The best option would be to put a banjo bolt on the drain pan plug and run a hose somewhere to the outer edge under the car for easy access. This would be by far the best way to do this but laziness got the better of me this time. In the future, if I ever have to get under the car again and pull the under tray panels, I will do that. Easier than pumping.

 

[pulsar]

For those DIY folks, something to be said to give you’re car a good visual inspection while underneath for issues, leaks, if AWD your CV boots etc so if something is noticed and your under warranty you take it in. I don’t trust oil shops to do anything other than a wam bam quick oil change, and some will even screw that up.

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[sidewinder1]

i use a mini paint tray to put under the oil filter to catch the remaining oil and use this one.

7 in. Mini Roller Tray Black-PRT700-24 - The Home Depot

if you have someone else do the oil change, always make sure they put back the bottom cover. whether its fastened properly with all the clips another story. i had a dealer overfill oil one time on another car and caused permanent issue with the engine and will never let someone else change the oil even if it was free.

 

[sidewinder1]

I prefer the "old" gravity method... that way any particulates that accumulate in the bottom of the pan flow out..

Used to do my own, but having someone else do it for me is worth it. Only cost me about $100 for someone else to drop the panels, replace the filter and pour in 8 1/2 - 9 quarts of synthetic for the 5.0.

i normally do my oil changes but dealer gave us a courtesy oil change when we purchased a brand new 11 buick enclave. went on a vacation day after oil change and started getting strange engine vibrations and hesitation after driving over 200mi. decided to check the dipstick on a hunch and it was overfilled to over 1.5" past the max mark. it was likely never drained then filled up. ever since, engine developed a low groan/vibration when accelerating at low rpm and still has it to this day. it also recently started consuming oil and although no way to prove it was caused by the oil incident i wouldn't doubt it. needless to say, i never let someone else change the oil even if it was free.

Engine oil overfilled

now on the genesis, took it into the dealer for warranty work where they had to take off the bottom covers but they never put it back. service advisor initially acted surprised something like that could happen and later they found it sitting in the corner at the shop had to make a 2nd trip to have it installed. if you have someone else change the oil, always check under the car to make sure the panel was installed. even then, you can't be sure it was fastened correctly. and check the oil level !

 

[carguy75]

For those DIY folks, something to be said to give you’re car a good visual inspection while underneath for issues, leaks, if AWD your CV boots etc so if something is noticed and your under warranty you take it in. I don’t trust oil shops to do anything other than a wam bam quick oil change, and some will even screw that up.

You hit it on the nose. I do inspect the drive shaft and other parts under the chassis while I do my oil changes. I have noticed and corrected many failed parts over the years in the cars I have owned by catching them early before they became a much serious repair such as weeping seals that could turn into full on leaks on the road.

 

[carguy75]

i use a mini paint tray to put under the oil filter to catch the remaining oil and use this one.

7 in. Mini Roller Tray Black-PRT700-24 - The Home Depot

if you have someone else do the oil change, always make sure they put back the bottom cover. whether its fastened properly with all the clips another story. i had a dealer overfill oil one time on another car and caused permanent issue with the engine and will never let someone else change the oil even if it was free.

Very informative video. However, the topside method is just too slow for me. I could have drained my oil twice from the drain plug in the time it takes to do one topside oil removal. Plus, you can drain more oil out of the oil pan from the drain hole by lifting one side of the car higher(passenger side in the Genesis V8) so the drain hole is tilted down. Most cars only need one side raised to do an oil change, actually one section such as the front passenger wheel unless you are a very big framed person. I learned that trick years ago.

The guy in the video still made a good argument for those particular older Mercedes engines and for those who use a lift since you can not tilt a car on those.

 

[sidewinder1]

interesting about lifting the side to drain more but the whole point of top change is to avoid lifting or going under the car. as far as time saved, you're leaving out the time to take off and put back the bottom panel which is a pain. this is why i went with topsider and usually sucks out over 7qt of warm oil in about 15min or less. i can wait 15min without having to go under the car and mess around with clips. any small amount of residual oil remaining won't be an issue with 7.2qt going in there.

 

[jimmy buoy]

The extractor I use drains the hot oil up and out from the dipstick tube in less than 10 minutes - not sure what's so time consuming about that...

 

[carguy75]

interesting about lifting the side to drain more but the whole point of top change is to avoid lifting or going under the car. as far as time saved, you're leaving out the time to take off and put back the bottom panel which is a pain. this is why i went with topsider and usually sucks out over 7qt of warm oil in about 15min or less. i can wait 15min without having to go under the car and mess around with clips. any small amount of residual oil remaining won't be an issue with 7.2qt going in there.

Good point about the panels. I swapped my old panels for ones from a 2017 model with access hatches for the drain plug and filter, however 2015 and 2016 model owners with the original body panels will have to remove the panels to drain from the plug. So the top sider method would be more convenient it seems and quicker in that regard.

For my own experience, the tops side method would be a pain for me with the pumping and then trying to remove the oil filter from the top of the engine. The 5.0 engine has the air intake in the way.

Now, I only have to raise the front passenger side wheel with a jack, slide under the car and loosen two bolts for the access panels, drain the oil from my Fomoto valve(replaced the drain plug) and oil filter, close the valve and install the filter, fill and replace the panels, lower the car. Done. 30 minutes at the most.

Note: My method usually drains about 8 1/4 quarts out of the oil pan/oil filter housing. However, I do not lift the side up too much since the drain plug is center on the 5.0 oil pan. I only lift the side up enough for me to slide under the car. Too much of a lift would tilt the pan too much to one side which would have the oil pool on one side. On the 5.0 it would be best to lift the entire front up to get all the remaining oil.

 

[carguy75]

The extractor I use drains the hot oil up and out from the dipstick tube in less than 10 minutes - not sure what's so time consuming about that...

Seems pretty quick at less than 10 minutes to drain over 8 quarts of oil. How long does it take to change your oil filter from the top?

 

[jimmy buoy]

Seems pretty quick at less than 10 minutes to drain over 8 quarts of oil. How long does it take to change your oil filter from the top?

It is quick. Of course, the filter is changed from underneath but all I just park on two pairs of solid house bricks (one pair per wheel. parking brake set and jack stands placed under the car for safety ) which raises the car enough to drop the front cover and access the filter. Sure is nice not to have to jack the car up or remove the rear shield. Once things are back in place and I've filled the crankcase to the upper limits I remove the jack stands, start the car and back off the bricks. This also gives enough running time to be able to do the final fill to the proper level.

I really don't find crawling around on the driveway under the car any more than necessary a fun activity. This method has worked well for me for the last 7yrs. That being said, it's still a free country - whatever floats your boat!

 

[carguy75]

It is quick. Of course, the filter is changed from underneath but all I just park on two pairs of solid house bricks (one pair per wheel. parking brake set and jack stands placed under the car for safety ) which raises the car enough to drop the front cover and access the filter. Sure is nice not to have to jack the car up or remove the rear shield. Once things are back in place and I've filled the crankcase to the upper limits I remove the jack stands, start the car and back off the bricks. This also gives enough running time to be able to do the final fill to the proper level.

I really don't find crawling around on the driveway under the car any more than necessary a fun activity. This method has worked well for me for the last 7yrs. That being said, it's still a free country - whatever floats your boat!

Correct. Many ways to do an oil change. Therefore, the best method is whatever a person choose to use that best suits them. Your method seems to be combination of the top side suction method and the classic drain the pan method. If it works for you than it is the best method that works for you. I just invested in the newer panels and drain valve to make my oil change easier for me do to my preferred 4k mile intervals , however it is not best method for everyone else due to the cost.

I actually crawl in my garage on a creeper so not a big deal to me to do an classic oil change.