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Cleaning the MAF

Stoofpilot

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How do you clean the MAF? I know I can't buy a can of MAF cleaner but not sure how to properly get to it and clean it.

Thanks
 
check it out

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TO7ZC5N-aA"]How To Clean a Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) - YouTube[/ame]
 
Why do you want to clean it? Some things are best left alone unless there is a problem.
 
Jcn2000, is it as easy as this video seems?
 
Jcn2000, is it as easy as this video seems?


I should have specified... the TAU 5.0 does not use a MAF, but the TAU 4.6 does.

I was referencing a small-block Ford 302 which has a MAF....

But anyway it's easy peasy. Really this, and checking for carbon around your butterfly valve (and cleaning) should be normal DIY. Take a step further and clean your intake mani's check your PVC, vacuum lines etc... I usually do all of this as the oil is draining.
 
MAF sensors are easy to mess up. If your engine is idling normally, the MAF sensor is fine. The biggest reason for MAF sensor problems are people who insist on using oil-wetted filters instead of stock filters

If you are finding anything in your air intake system (downstream of the filter), you have a problem with your air filter or fitment of the air filter box. Fix the problem, don't just wipe away the evidence.
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MAF sensors are easy to mess up. If your engine is idling normally, the MAF sensor is fine. The biggest reason for MAF sensor problems are people who insist on using oil-wetted filters instead of stock filters

If you are finding anything in your air intake system (downstream of the filter), you have a problem with your air filter or fitment of the air filter box. Fix the problem, don't just wipe away the evidence.

Yes. My IROC (1986 model) has never had the MAF sensor cleaned, nor the intake tube/filter housing (except on the dirty side of the filters.) I've also been running the those "oily" filters for the last 10 years or so, with no issues so far.

I drove the IROC to the Lowe's store last weekend and I was surprised at how quickly it fired up after sitting for a month (I don't drive it or the new coupe if the weather is bad, so sometimes they sit a week or more without being started - and despite my self made promises, the coupe is getting way more road time than the IROC - fun is fun, what can I say:)).
 
To understand why it needs to be clean you first have to know how it works. The MAF is made up of two sensor wires that are heated. The MAF will measure the temp different between the two and calculate the air mass entering the engine, ie more airflow means you should have a cooler wire temp.

The reason to clean them is because the wires will start to form a built up of dirt on them that will insulate the wires. Which there fore will give the ECM an incorrect reading of the air mass entering the engine. The use of oil soaked air filters speeds up the built up dirt on the MAF due to dirt likes to stick to oil.

Would you need to clean it every oil change? NO, but at least every 30K to 45K miles. You will almost never feel a problem with a dirt MAF at idle. The problem will show up at take off with reduced power due to the MAF wires are insulated by dirt and are under estimating the air mass entering therefore not giving the command for the correct amount of fuel. When you have more air you want more fuel so the MAF has to be able to tell the ECM that the engine is sucking in more air now give it some fuel and lets get this party started.

Hope this helped explain it a little. This applies to all cars that have MAF sensors.
 
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If you use a rechargeable K&N Air Filter, and you tend to liberally use the recharge spray (sticky) oil on the filter when you recharge, it's a GOOD idea to clean the MAF sensor periodically to ensure you do not have any recharge oil clinging to the sensor. Just prudent PM.
 
I cleaned my first MAF sensor this fall. My Explorer (with 102,000 miles) started stalling when idling. Checked a couple of things, and then bought a can of MAF sensor cleaner and the special little tool to remove the sensor. A careful and thorough cleaning took care of the problem. Before the idle problem, I never noticed any problems off idle including full throttle acceleration.

Measuring air flow is most critical at idle due to to lack of air flow.
 
If you use a rechargeable K&N Air Filter, and you tend to liberally use the recharge spray (sticky) oil on the filter when you recharge, it's a GOOD idea to clean the MAF sensor periodically to ensure you do not have any recharge oil clinging to the sensor. Just prudent PM.


If you're really concerned about good PM'ing, you wouldn't be using an oil wetted filter.

Here is an interesting read: http://www.scribd.com/doc/23641356/ISO-5011-Duramax-Air-Filter


Among other things, it says the tests showed:

In the chart above it’s important to note the different test durations for each filter. The AC Delco filter
test ran for 60 minutes before exceeding the restriction limit while the AMSOIL and K&N tests each
ran for 20 and 24 minutes respectively before reaching max restriction. In 60 minutes the AC Filter
accumulated 574gms of dirt and passed only 0.4gms. After only 24 minutes the K&N had
accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly
3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a
complete summary of these comparisons.
 
That's an old test; it wasn't conducted in a scientific manner, and when K&N called the gentleman on his method, he never responded. So take those 'test' results with a grain of sand.
 
yesterday morning I did execute a "MAF Cleaning" with CRC on the MAF sensor of my 23 yr old Isuzu 4x4; and this was the one vehicle I had not done a cleaning on... I inspected the sensors with a mag glass and I saw visible crud on the sensors. After cleaning, no grunge. End result: Vehicle started up quickly even after sitting in low 20 deg driveway all night. I drove and filled up (I was down nearly to the redline E). Drove to work yesterday and today (21 miles one way). The engine seems to be running 'easier' at 65 mph. And now, I noticed that instead of it coming off the Full mark at about 25 - 30 miles, it was well over 40 before the fuel needle moved. While I won't say it's peppier and so forth, I can tell that SOMETHING did change...and it for the better. I've owned that old truck since it was brand new, so I'm intimately familiar with it's noses, sounds, nuances, vibrations, etc, and cleaning the MAF did make a difference. I keep detailed records of fuel consumption and mpg and I will now something better over the next few tanks of gas.

:)
 
I filled up this morning, now this is one tank, but the results look promising. MPG calculated this morning was 20.9. That's a bit more than I've been getting over the past pre-MAF cleaning tanks of gas.....
 
This might be a stupid question but please bear with me, can someone please tell me where the MAF censor located on the 2011 Genesis Coupe 2.0T, i looked in all the places where it would be but i couldn't find it, also looked around on the net and didn't find anything, please some help...thank you.
 
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