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ECS help (Electronically Controlled Suspension)

I posted in suspension but I guess that was the wrong place. I guess that’s for suspension upgrades 😅🤷🏻‍♂️
 
That’s what I thought too! After I replaced the abs speed sensor and that didn’t make it go away I replaced the hub with the plug built in to the back and that wasn’t it either. It’s the part in the pictures. The “wheel g sensor” which is a little black box bolted to the bottom of the strut but removable with connectors on both ends. As opposed to ANOTHER sensor which is permanently fixed to the bottom of the strut in which case I would’ve needed the entire strut but that one isn’t it.
Are you looking for this part? Expensive shock sensor.:(
1632903472643.webp
1632903491615.webp
 
Are you looking for this part? Expensive shock sensor.:(
View attachment 40229
View attachment 40230
I think so! 😭😭😭 That’s ridiculous 🤦🏻‍♂️ Looks like it comes with a bunch of extra stuff I don’t even need 😒

I don’t even feel any difference in ride quality. Pretty sure that strut is just acting as a normal strut now. It’s the light on the dash that’s driving me crazy 😩
And no I don’t just wanna put tape over it 😅😆
 
I think so! 😭😭😭 That’s ridiculous 🤦🏻‍♂️ Looks like it comes with a bunch of extra stuff I don’t even need 😒

I don’t even feel any difference in ride quality. Pretty sure that strut is just acting as a normal strut now. It’s the light on the dash that’s driving me crazy 😩
And no I don’t just wanna put tape over it 😅😆
I hear you.:)

I am really rethinking how I feel about the electronic shocks in my 2015 5.0 based on the potential repair cost. The sensor cost almost as much as the shock itself; which is not cheap at about $600 a piece.
 
I hear you.:)

I am really rethinking how I feel about the electronic shocks in my 2015 5.0 based on the potential repair cost. The sensor cost almost as much as the shock itself; which is not cheap at about $600 a piece.
I wish someone made a kit to retrofit regular shocks - sort of like they do with the old Airmatic Mercedes. Those kits even included a resistor that would shut off the warning light in the cluster....
 
I wish someone made a kit to retrofit regular shocks - sort of like they do with the old Airmatic Mercedes. Those kits even included a resistor that would shut off the warning light in the cluster…
Almost positive they do but idk about the light… which is what bothers me most. Suspension and handling feels the same to me 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
I wish someone made a kit to retrofit regular shocks - sort of like they do with the old Airmatic Mercedes. Those kits even included a resistor that would shut off the warning light in the cluster....
It seems like we can swap to non-electronic(passive) shocks that would fit a standard Genesis model like the 3.8, however the trick would be how to disable any warning messages.

Resistors may or may not work since our shocks are tied to the drive modes with would probably require some sort of variable resistor to account for voltage and resistant changes. The system may be too smart for such a single bypass and may need an actual custom module to eliminate any error messages when using passive shocks.
 
It seems like we can swap to non-electronic(passive) shocks that would fit a standard Genesis model like the 3.8, however the trick would be how to disable any warning messages.

Resistors may or may not work since our shocks are tied to the drive modes with would probably require some sort of variable resistor to account for voltage and resistant changes. The system may be too smart for such a single bypass and may need an actual custom module to eliminate any error messages when using passive shocks.
Yes exactly and f all that 😅
Don’t feel like spending $380-$600 just to turn a dash light off just yet. Going to see how long I can live with it 😳😬
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Yes exactly and f all that 😅
Don’t feel like spending $380-$600 just to turn a dash light off just yet. Going to see how long I can live with it 😳😬
Probably will be OK, unless you're trying to sell the car....
 
I had the same warning and code issue (C1294) with my 2015 Genesis 5.0 AWD - “Wheel G Sensor - Front Right”. I back probed the strut mounted connection to verify incoming sensor power present (5V). Then ran a diagnostic function test on the suspension actuators (via a Snap On Zeus set up) and noticed all the other Body and Wheel G sensors returning a 2.5V signal but the sensor in question return signal was zero. Used bench power to back feed 2.5V back up the signal wire of the dead sensor to the ECS ECU and it cleared the warning on the dash, mimicking a good sensor signal. Feeling confident that my problem was the bad sensor but due to the expense of the replacement sensor and annoyance of the persistent ECS warning.. I ultimately opted to tap into the back of ECS ECU module connection (in the trunk) and pop a paper clip bridge between the incoming signal wires of the good FL Wheel G sensor (pin 29) and the bad FR sensor (pin 30)..sharing the active 2.5V FL sensor signal voltage. This not only cleared the ECS warning and C1294 code but now also actuates the FR suspension in tandem with the FL, a little bonus over simply putting in a resistor in to mimic the proper signal return sensor voltage. Note, I would never do this with a FR/FL wheel speed sensor for obvious reasons but for actuating the suspension I feel pretty confident that it should be just fine. A little more in depth hack but better than just putting electrical tape on the cluster screen to cover that darned ECS warning light.
 
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I had the same warning and code issue (C1294) with my 2015 Genesis 5.0 AWD - “Wheel G Sensor - Front Right”. I back probed the strut mounted connection to verify incoming sensor power present (5V). Then ran a diagnostic function test on the suspension actuators (via a Snap On Zeus set up) and noticed all the other Body and Wheel G sensors returning a 2.5V signal but the sensor in question return signal was zero. Used bench power to back feed 2.5V back up the signal wire of the dead sensor to the ECS ECU and it cleared the warning on the dash, mimicking a good sensor signal. Feeling confident that my problem was the bad sensor but due to the expense of the replacement sensor and annoyance of the persistent ECS warning.. I ultimately opted to tap into the back of ECS ECU module connection (in the trunk) and pop a paper clip bridge between the incoming signal wires of the good FL Wheel G sensor (pin 29) and the bad FR sensor (pin 30)..sharing the active 2.5V FL sensor signal voltage. This not only cleared the ECS warning and C1294 code but now also actuates the FR suspension in tandem with the FL, a little bonus over simply putting in a resistor in to mimic the proper signal return sensor voltage. Note, I would never do this with a FR/FL wheel speed sensor for obvious reasons but for actuating the suspension I feel pretty confident that it should be just fine. A little more in depth hack but better than just putting electrical tape on the cluster screen to cover that darned ECS warning light.
Well that’s freaking AWESOME. Wish I had the knowledge and ability to have gone that route. I ended up caving and bought the damn sensor. 😒 but if another one goes out, I would def want to give this a shot. Not sure if I could succeed at it though. I assume it’s a little too late to ask for pictures 😅
 
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I had the same warning and code issue (C1294) with my 2015 Genesis 5.0 AWD - “Wheel G Sensor - Front Right”. I back probed the strut mounted connection to verify incoming sensor power present (5V). Then ran a diagnostic function test on the suspension actuators (via a Snap On Zeus set up) and noticed all the other Body and Wheel G sensors returning a 2.5V signal but the sensor in question return signal was zero. Used bench power to back feed 2.5V back up the signal wire of the dead sensor to the ECS ECU and it cleared the warning on the dash, mimicking a good sensor signal. Feeling confident that my problem was the bad sensor but due to the expense of the replacement sensor and annoyance of the persistent ECS warning.. I ultimately opted to tap into the back of ECS ECU module connection (in the trunk) and pop a paper clip bridge between the incoming signal wires of the good FL Wheel G sensor (pin 29) and the bad FR sensor (pin 30)..sharing the active 2.5V FL sensor signal voltage. This not only cleared the ECS warning and C1294 code but now also actuates the FR suspension in tandem with the FL, a little bonus over simply putting in a resistor in to mimic the proper signal return sensor voltage. Note, I would never do this with a FR/FL wheel speed sensor for obvious reasons but for actuating the suspension I feel pretty confident that it should be just fine. A little more in depth hack but better than just putting electrical tape on the cluster screen to cover that darned ECS warning light.
Would you happen to have the schematics of the module because my problem is with the back left (drivers side) shock ??? Thanks in advance !!!
 
Would you happen to have the schematics of the module because my problem is with the back left (drivers side) shock ??? Thanks in advance !!!
That was literally his only post to this forum - and it was almost 2 years ago. Unlikely he is still reading the group.
 
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