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Engine cracked by oil pressure sensor switch

thenewguyy

New member
Joined
Aug 20, 2021
Messages
28
Reaction score
7
Points
3
Genesis Model Year
2013
Genesis Model Type
1G Genesis Sedan (2009-2014)
So guys.....I guess I kinda know the answer but posting more as an FYI and if anyone else has any advice, Im all ears. I googled this up and not many hits came up for a genesis but saw a bunch of subaru owners who've experienced this. Recently i had a very small oil leak happening, took the car in and found out, there was a crack where the oil pressure sensor goes into which is threaded into the front of the motor. Its a 5.0. Obviously the proper thing to do was get a whole new front end which with what the car is worth (13 with 260k kms) made no sense since it would require the whole motor to be pulled out, Second option was to possibly weld but the shop told me, its almost impossible to do it with it on the car cause there's barely any space you really need to tig weld them since its aluminum and stuff so that was out of the picture. Last resort was JB weld, well they did that but its still leaking, i didnt see exactly what they did but i thought that shouldve definitely fixed it since i see engine blocks with holes that things has repaired, so not sure why a small hairline crack couldnt but its its right into the oil pressor sensor valley with the threads, im assuming that probably placed a part in the leak still occuring. Other than this, the motor is perfectly fine and my plan was to sell it next year but now, this sucks. Anyone else done a similar repair that worked? They did put teflon tape into the threads hoping that would seal it and the jb weld would cover the crack but its still seeping. Its basically at 10:50 of this video where he removed the oil filter and cooling housing, that little black hole you see right above them is where the switch threads into
 
...i thought that shouldve definitely fixed it since i see engine blocks with holes that things has repaired, so not sure why a small hairline crack couldnt but its its right into the oil pressor sensor valley with the threads, ...
Those holes that you saw repaired didn't have up to ?? PSI oil pressure against them. They just had normal crankcase pressure (which is usually slightly negative when the engine is running) and only had to stop oil that is splashed from leaking. Also, small cracks are harder to seal because it is difficult to force the epoxy into the crack and there is no way to clean the surfaces inside the crack.
 
Those holes that you saw repaired didn't have up to ?? PSI oil pressure against them. They just had normal crankcase pressure (which is usually slightly negative when the engine is running) and only had to stop oil that is splashed from leaking. Also, small cracks are harder to seal because it is difficult to force the epoxy into the crack and there is no way to clean the surfaces inside the crack.
Thanks for the link, looks like he had the exact same issue as me and even though he did the repairs himself, they were still like 3-4k so i can imagine a shop not doing this for less than 5 which again with what the car is worth, no point doing this repair unless i really wanna keep it long term but then with our transmissions not being the best, god know how long before i have issues with those and then its just money down the drain especially knowing I will get nothing back when selling it.
 
Sadly, I think that accurately sums it up.
 
without really knowing how small of a space there is to work with in your engine bay, would it be possible/feasible for someone to get in that space with a (very small) torch, and try to fix the crack by brazing?
 
without really knowing how small of a space there is to work with in your engine bay, would it be possible/feasible for someone to get in that space with a (very small) torch, and try to fix the crack by brazing?
First im hearing of this brazing. I haven't seen the amount of space down there first hand but the first shop said, there's barely any room, they sent me a video of when it was leaking once the car was on and he said, i literally had to balance the phone on my fingertips to even record that. I can sorta see the switch when i look from the top of the engine bay but just barely, and that's because i know exactly where to look where as the avg person wouldn't but nonetheless, if there was any work to be done on it, it would definitely need to be from the bottom. I have another shop looking at it since i wanted a second opinion, going to see what they say and report back
 
First im hearing of this brazing. I haven't seen the amount of space down there first hand but the first shop said, there's barely any room, they sent me a video of when it was leaking once the car was on and he said, i literally had to balance the phone on my fingertips to even record that. I can sorta see the switch when i look from the top of the engine bay but just barely, and that's because i know exactly where to look where as the avg person wouldn't but nonetheless, if there was any work to be done on it, it would definitely need to be from the bottom. I have another shop looking at it since i wanted a second opinion, going to see what they say and report back
I think that you can get enough room to possibly do this by removing the water pump, fan, and maybe the radiator.
 
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I think that you can get enough room to possibly do this by removing the water pump, fan, and maybe the radiator.
will see what my mechanic says and will suggest this and go from there
 
Any progress on this?
It looks like you already tried JB Weld, but another option MIGHT be to talk to a Loctite specialist or representative, and see if they have any sort of "magic metal" type of filler you could squeeze into the crack in question. They seem to have quite a range of products...
 
Any progress on this?
It looks like you already tried JB Weld, but another option MIGHT be to talk to a Loctite specialist or representative, and see if they have any sort of "magic metal" type of filler you could squeeze into the crack in question. They seem to have quite a range of products...
So the JB weld initially was leaking a bit but I thought might as well keep driving and ive noticed it stopped leaking or is barely any coming especially when i park overnight. So Ive been driving for now, i did have misfire issue thats come up and trying to remedy that.
 
So the JB weld initially was leaking a bit but I thought might as well keep driving and ive noticed it stopped leaking or is barely any coming especially when i park overnight. So Ive been driving for now, i did have misfire issue thats come up and trying to remedy that.
Keep us posted when you’re able to. Hopefully that’ll take care of the leak for you.
 
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