Fuel Door (Gas Door) won't open

[myst]

Stopped at the gas station Sunday afternoon and found out that fuel door won't open.
When I pressed the release button, I hear clicking noise but it won't open.
Popped the trunk and pulled the manual release latch.
Same thing, I hear clicking noise trying to release the fuel door but it won't open.

Panic and frustrated knowing I can't fill up the gas now at the Costco (cheapest gas price in the town). (2.09/gal)

Did anyone had the same issue?

Good thing that I wasn't traveling far... (approx. 50 gas mileage left according to display)

I google searched it and it's somewhat common problem on Hyundai cars?

It's Monday morning at the dealer, they're replacing the "actuator" now. (Approx. 1 hour and 30 min job....)

When I get the brand new car, I had go thru vibration issue on already swapped Michelin tire and ended up switched to M. Premier.
Drove 15,000 miles and now this.
Oh well.. hopefully this will be the last one.
I still like the car for what I paid.

- - - Updated - - -

They opened the fuel door but now they're saying that they don't have the part available...
They told me to put the gas and come back tomorrow...
So annoying wasting my time. (and another hour for tomorrow)

What I am going to do w/ you guys....Rosen Hyundai in Algonquin, IL

 

[CanukV6]

I have never had this problem, but what is interesting about your post is that when you pulled the emergency release in the trunk, it still did not open the fuel door. I thought this release was purely mechanical, bypassing the electrical actuator. Was your fuel-door frozen shut or something?

 

[jsmit86]

Stopped at the gas station Sunday afternoon and found out that fuel door won't open.
When I pressed the release button, I hear clicking noise but it won't open.
Popped the trunk and pulled the manual release latch.
Same thing, I hear clicking noise trying to release the fuel door but it won't open.

Panic and frustrated knowing I can't fill up the gas now at the Costco (cheapest gas price in the town). (2.09/gal)

Did anyone had the same issue?

Good thing that I wasn't traveling far... (approx. 50 gas mileage left according to display)

I google searched it and it's somewhat common problem on Hyundai cars?

It's Monday morning at the dealer, they're replacing the "actuator" now. (Approx. 1 hour and 30 min job....)

When I get the brand new car, I had go thru vibration issue on already swapped Michelin tire and ended up switched to M. Premier.
Drove 15,000 miles and now this.
Oh well.. hopefully this will be the last one.
I still like the car for what I paid.

- - - Updated - - -

They opened the fuel door but now they're saying that they don't have the part available...
They told me to put the gas and come back tomorrow...
So annoying wasting my time. (and another hour for tomorrow)

What I am going to do w/ you guys....Rosen Hyundai in Algonquin, IL

I have had good service from Rosen. It doesn't shock me that the part would not be in stock at the dealership. It seems a bit odd that the manual release did not work though.
On a side note, how are the Michelin Premier? I ended up with 2 bad sets of MXM4s, and ended up with Conti Extreme Contact DWS 06s, that totally solved my vibration problem.

 

[myst]

I have never had this problem, but what is interesting about your post is that when you pulled the emergency release in the trunk, it still did not open the fuel door. I thought this release was purely mechanical, bypassing the electrical actuator. Was your fuel-door frozen shut or something?

That's what I thought manual release suppose be doing but had no luck at the time.
The weather wasn't near freezing point. (above 50 F mild)
I think it was just the part (actuator) failure.
It's all good now. It works every time I tested by pressing the release button.
But this week I remembered that moment and thought about "what if.." at the gas station.

I have had good service from Rosen. It doesn't shock me that the part would not be in stock at the dealership. It seems a bit odd that the manual release did not work though.
On a side note, how are the Michelin Premier? I ended up with 2 bad sets of MXM4s, and ended up with Conti Extreme Contact DWS 06s, that totally solved my vibration problem.

Their service was okay but the fact that I told them the problem and they think it's actuator issue and told me to come in anytime. And after an hour of wait they told me they don't have the part. Really? And made another trip next day spent another hour to get that part put up. I drove my car w/ fuel door opened that day.

I had two rear MXMs replaced when I purchased the car and drove about 2,000 miles. I noticed the vibration on steering wheel and seat while at 40 mph~70 mph. I was really mad and yelled at the show room and ended up talking to the GM and two weeks later they said two fronts are within the spec so only gave me two new rears. It was better than before but still had vibration. I ended up just going to Discount Tires in Lake in the Hills and open the case thru Michelin and they upgrade me to Premier but had to pay mounting and balancing to Discount Tire. But the results are much improved. It is less smooth than MXMs but no vibration. I only feel very little vibration on steering wheel above 75 mph. I want to try DWS 06s next time w/ new rims. I think the vibration might be coming from the manufacture rims but what do I know. (Seems like techs can't figure it out well anyways)

On the side note, I had vibration when I brake and Rosen dealer just resurfaced the rotors at 200 mileage. After reading the forum, they should of give me the new rotors.

Well, it's funny after all these issues, I still like the car.

 

[Mark_888]

I had two rear MXMs replaced when I purchased the car and drove about 2,000 miles.

On the side note, I had vibration when I brake and Rosen dealer just resurfaced the rotors at 200 mileage. After reading the forum, they should of give me the new rotors.

Be careful about calling a Michelin tire by the "MXM4" name. Michelin uses the term "MXM" on several different tire models that are completely different (Pilot MXM4, Primacy MXM4, and others). MXM's usually are better for handling and responsive steering, but not as good as MXV's for comfort (assuming that a Michelin tire comes in both models).

I have heard nothing but good things about the Premier A/S, especially when the tire is half way worn (where other tires rapidly go bad in terms of comfort). It's basically a MXV type of Michelin, but doesn't use that term since it only comes in one type.

If your rotors are no longer warped (don't vibrate when braking), I would not worry about whether they resurfaced them instead of replaced them. Rotors are quite thick and rarely get worn out. My suspicion is that the rotors were warped at the port of entry (or maybe the dealer) by applying too much torque on the lug nuts when adding wheel locks or splash guards. Apparently Hyundai Motor America has a bunch of goons working at least one of their ports of entry, as it is very unlikely that the vehicle assembly plant would do something like that.

 

[seanracerx1986]

Over torquing a wheel will cause the rotor to warp? that's new to me.

 

[waz]

Yes - over torquing the lug nuts (or torquing them unevenly) will do a number on the rotors. Tire stores that know what they're doing always use a torque stick to tighten lug nuts when using an impact wrench, or a torque wrench to tighten by hand.

Torque sticks work by flexing (like a torsion bar) when a torque limit is reached. When the stick flexes, it resists further tightening of the fastener.

I got a flat repaired on my wife's Toyota Sienna the other day, and saw the mechanic about to use an impact wrench on the lug nuts without a torque stick. I told him to stop and I tightened them by feel using the lug wrench from the trunk, then used a torque wrench when I got home.

Insisting that mechanics use a torque stick or a torque wrench when getting tires put on will save you a load of grief.

 

[Mark_888]

Over torquing a wheel will cause the rotor to warp? that's new to me.

Yes, as Waz explained above.

There has been a rash of such complaints in the last couple of years on this forum about this (none that I recall before that), but certainly not everyone has had the problem. There is really no other explanation that I can think of (improperly torqued lug nuts), since it is highly unlikely that the rotors would be warped unless they were improperly turned during a brake job.

Also, even if the correct torque is used, if the lugs are not tightened in the correct order, it can also warp the rotors. The incorrect order is going sequentially around the wheel one at a time.

 

[lobsenza]

If a mechanic (except my regular independent mechanic or Discount Tire who tighten the lug nuts correctly) removes tires form my car, I always loosen and re-tighten the lug nuts with a torque wrench when I get home. I learned this 20 years ago when I had to replace rotors on a car for this problem.

 

[G-568178]

I have never had this problem, but what is interesting about your post is that when you pulled the emergency release in the trunk, it still did not open the fuel door. I thought this release was purely mechanical, bypassing the electrical actuator. Was your fuel-door frozen shut or something?

I thought exactly the same when my fuel door button did not work today, so I pulled the manual release In the truck and still it will not open, pull it about twenty times and still nothing. And I’m in Arizona so it’s definitely not frozen shut. Very confusing that the manual release also will not all it to open.

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