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G70 - jack points?

Yes, there are aftermarket bushings available for the Stinger/G70. Do a google search for "Kia Stinger differential bushing". It might possibly be of some benefit to guy who have modded some big HP into their 3.3T. I don't see a need for the 2.0T.

I am, however, seriously considering getting aftermarket suspension links. I have a set of rear camber control arms coming, since the Stinger's stock camber adjustment is already maxed out just to keep it at -2.0deg. The G70 is okay, for some reason, even thought they both have the same Eibach lowering springs. If I like the rear camber links, I might replace the other 3 control arms as well. The front suspension only has a single bushing that has an aftermarket replacement. It's one that is quite soft and wobbles around a lot. Great for cabin NVH isolation, but not good for precision suspension control. Stinger/G70 handling has a good bit of vagueness to it near the limits, and I don't doubt all these soft wobbly rubber bushings are to blame, at least partially.

You'll like the second Daytona floor jack. I couldn't possibly imagine not having two of them in my garage. Makes jacking up the car such a non-event.
Hi Volfy:

I just ordered the BMS (Burger) rear differential brace. Do you have any experience with adding a rear differential brace, and if so, was it a positive experience.

The same guy who recommended the differential brace says he is also planning on replacing the OEM rubber differential bushings with ATQ urethane bushings. Will the urethane bushings probably increase NVH levels, and will they have any effect on ride quality in commuter/freeway/street driving? I do not track or autocross my car, just drive it on twisty mountain roads on weekends. I have a feeling the urethane diff bushings may be overkill for what I am doing with the car. Confirm or deny? :D :D
Thank you!!
 
Hi Volfy:

I just ordered the BMS (Burger) rear differential brace. Do you have any experience with adding a rear differential brace, and if so, was it a positive experience.

The same guy who recommended the differential brace says he is also planning on replacing the OEM rubber differential bushings with ATQ urethane bushings. Will the urethane bushings probably increase NVH levels, and will they have any effect on ride quality in commuter/freeway/street driving? I do not track or autocross my car, just drive it on twisty mountain roads on weekends. I have a feeling the urethane diff bushings may be overkill for what I am doing with the car. Confirm or deny? :D :D
Thank you!!
I'm not a HP/TQ kinda driver, so I don't have any first hand experience on this. Probably not the best person to answer this, but I can give you my worthless $0.02.

The OEM rubber differential bushings do serve some NVH reduction function, but IMO they also allow for some flex/isolation between the chassis and the driveline. Most folks will likely think "flex" means the diff moving and/or distorting when big TQ is applied to the propeller shaft. No doubt that is certainly true, especially for those who mod their car for substantial increase in HP/TQ output. That is what the diff brace and stiffer bushings are supposed to help control excessive movement of the diff due to excessive TQ.

The flip side of that is the fact that the chassis is nowhere near perfectly rigid. It too will flex/move when unequal forces from road undulations and cornering weight transfer act upon the chassis. There needs to be some "give" between the chassis and the driveline to allow for chassis contortion. Too stiff (too little give) and the chassis flex will make the driveline flex with it... whether the driveline can or not.

How much give or flex should be built into the chassis/driveline interface is a delicate balancing act. I won't even try to opine whether somebody modding their car should go one way or the other. For me, 2.5T's stock 300HP is perfectly fine for carving twisties. In a tight turn, I can't use all the HP/TQ even if I wanted to. So I invest in suspension tuning instead. That's where I get my smiles per mile. That's just me.
 
I'm not a HP/TQ kinda driver, so I don't have any first hand experience on this. Probably not the best person to answer this, but I can give you my worthless $0.02.

The OEM rubber differential bushings do serve some NVH reduction function, but IMO they also allow for some flex/isolation between the chassis and the driveline. Most folks will likely think "flex" means the diff moving and/or distorting when big TQ is applied to the propeller shaft. No doubt that is certainly true, especially for those who mod their car for substantial increase in HP/TQ output. That is what the diff brace and stiffer bushings are supposed to help control excessive movement of the diff due to excessive TQ.

The flip side of that is the fact that the chassis is nowhere near perfectly rigid. It too will flex/move when unequal forces from road undulations and cornering weight transfer act upon the chassis. There needs to be some "give" between the chassis and the driveline to allow for chassis contortion. Too stiff (too little give) and the chassis flex will make the driveline flex with it... whether the driveline can or not.

How much give or flex should be built into the chassis/driveline interface is a delicate balancing act. I won't even try to opine whether somebody modding their car should go one way or the other. For me, 2.5T's stock 300HP is perfectly fine for carving twisties. In a tight turn, I can't use all the HP/TQ even if I wanted to. So I invest in suspension tuning instead. That's where I get my smiles per mile. That's just me.
Thank you for the very detailed answer. I have not modded my car for horsepower at all, nor do I plan to. But the guy that recommended the differential brace said that it caused the front and the rear of the car to feel more connected to each other when handling. So I think I’m going to go ahead and install the brace and see how it works out. I don’t really have any complaints about the way the car handles on mountain roads, but this will be an interesting experiment. I have the 3.3T rear drive.
 
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