G70 - jack points?

[DAYTA]

Does anyone know if there are any other jack points on the G70 other than the 4 pinch welds underneath the side skirts?

I want to start doing some basic maintenance stuff on my 2020 G70 3.3T AWD and it's always so much faster to jack from a centered front or rear jack point like the subframe vs the pinch welds. However, it's hard to determine where these jack points are on the G70 because of all the undertrays and panels.

 

[Husky]

I don't know of any. You can probably jack under the front knuckle/control arms, but I don't think there's anything to safely use in the middle. In the rear, again maybe under the knuckle/control arm. I don't think it's safe to use the center diff, being aluminum.
I think most guys use ramps for maintenance (depending on what you're doing of course).

 

[Volfy]

The way vehicles are packaged these days, alternate jack points are becoming less and less common. I haven't found any lift point I would want to risk boogering up the G70. With floor jacks available for as low as less than $100, it's far better to buy two to jack up the car evenly on both sides. I've got two 3-ton heavy-duty low-profile floor jacks I keep in the garage, plus a light-weight 1.5-ton aluminum floor jack I can take to AutoX/Track Day.

For most tasks, I use the two big floor jacks. But for things like rotating tires, that 3rd jack makes it so much easier and faster.

 

[JCtx]

No place to SAFELY jack up the G70 from a central position. And yes, that sucks, but it is what it is.

 

[DAYTA]

Oy, that's what I figured - thanks all for confirming. Do any of you guys have recommended steps on how to jack up the front of the car to do an oil change? I've always been able to jack all of my previous cars up from a central point, so I'm just trying to make sure I'm being safe.

I have a Daytona 3-ton long-reach jack + stands since I just don't trust plastic ramps, but even if you use 2 floor jacks I'm having a hard time conceptualizing a safe way to raise the front of the car onto jack stands using only the 4 pinch welds.

 

[Slip_Angle]

Oy, that's what I figured - thanks all for confirming. Do any of you guys have recommended steps on how to jack up the front of the car to do an oil change? I've always been able to jack all of my previous cars up from a central point, so I'm just trying to make sure I'm being safe.

I have a Daytona 3-ton long-reach jack + stands since I just don't trust plastic ramps, but even if you use 2 floor jacks I'm having a hard time conceptualizing a safe way to raise the front of the car onto jack stands using only the 4 pinch welds.

I made my own wood ramps.

 

[Volfy]

Oy, that's what I figured - thanks all for confirming. Do any of you guys have recommended steps on how to jack up the front of the car to do an oil change? I've always been able to jack all of my previous cars up from a central point, so I'm just trying to make sure I'm being safe.

I have a Daytona 3-ton long-reach jack + stands since I just don't trust plastic ramps, but even if you use 2 floor jacks I'm having a hard time conceptualizing a safe way to raise the front of the car onto jack stands using only the 4 pinch welds.

I don't bother with jack stands any more, unless I need to leave the car raised overnight or longer. IMO the car is just as sturdy on two heavy duty floor jacks, if not more so. I do position jack stands as fail-safe catches, in case the hydraulics fail, but truth be told, in over 35yrs of operating floorjacks, ive never seen a floor jack hydraulics fail catastrophically. I retired my two older floorjacks just recently after 25+ years of flawless service, only because one of them developed a very slow leak and I just don't feel like trying to fix it, even if I could get parts for them. So I replaced them both out of abundance of caution.

As for the pinch welds, they are what the mfrs designed and designated for lifting. Millions of unibody vehicles are lifted on them every year and failures are exceedingly rare and almost always caused by gross operator error, not inability of the support points to bear full weight of the vehicle.

At the end of the day, you have to decide what SOP you are comfortable with. I can only say what mine is.

 

[JCtx]

I use Rhino ramps, and the front bumper/lip clears perfectly fine on my 2023 2.0T SP.

 

[1816kg]

I saved these pictures from Facebook discussion.
Also in that discussion a person was stating that his was able to successfully jack the front of the car from the center silver bolt (the rest are black) that holds the bottom cover.

 

[JCtx]

That's the front of the sub-frame. It didn't look strong enough to me to risk it. And lifting from the differential is another no-no, but to each his own.

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[1816kg]

That's the front of the sub-frame. It didn't look strong enough to me to risk it. And lifting from the differential is another no-no, but to each his own.

You may be correct. But care to elaborate? What is exactly weak looking about the sub-frame? Why never use differential?
Thank you.

 

[DAYTA]

Figured there were no specific central jack points to use - thanks everyone for confirming!

I don't bother with jack stands any more, unless I need to leave the car raised overnight or longer. IMO the car is just as sturdy on two heavy duty floor jacks, if not more so. I do position jack stands as fail-safe catches, in case the hydraulics fail, but truth be told, in over 35yrs of operating floorjacks, ive never seen a floor jack hydraulics fail catastrophically. I retired my two older floorjacks just recently after 25+ years of flawless service, only because one of them developed a very slow leak and I just don't feel like trying to fix it, even if I could get parts for them. So I replaced them both out of abundance of caution.

As for the pinch welds, they are what the mfrs designed and designated for lifting. Millions of unibody vehicles are lifted on them every year and failures are exceedingly rare and almost always caused by gross operator error, not inability of the support points to bear full weight of the vehicle.

At the end of the day, you have to decide what SOP you are comfortable with. I can only say what mine is.

I'd still be hesitant to raise the car without the safety backstop of jack stands, but I suppose I could still place them underneath the frame rails if I used 2 floor jacks.

Regarding the pinch welds, I'm aware they are designed to support the full weight of the car - my question was more related to how to raise just the front of the car on the pinch welds without having the car teeter or see-saw back and forth.

 

[DAYTA]

You may be correct. But care to elaborate? What is exactly weak looking about the sub-frame? Why never use differential?
Thank you.

I'd also be curious on this as well. My 2018 X5 has the rear diff housing listed as the central jack point by BMW AG and that car weighs over 1,000lbs more than the G70...

Are you thinking because the housing is aluminum that it won't be able to support the load?

 

[1816kg]

Figured there were no specific central jack points to use - thanks everyone for confirming!


I'd still be hesitant to raise the car without the safety backstop of jack stands, but I suppose I could still place them underneath the frame rails if I used 2 floor jacks.

Regarding the pinch welds, I'm aware they are designed to support the full weight of the car - my question was more related to how to raise just the front of the car on the pinch welds without having the car teeter or see-saw back and forth.

As I mentioned, there is a way to lift from the front. However, use it at your own risk. It is not official jack point. I have not tried it. People have stated that they were able to successfully jack the front of the car from the center silver bolt (the rest are black) that holds underbody panels. There is a cross member under the center silver bolt.

 

[Volfy]

Figured there were no specific central jack points to use - thanks everyone for confirming!


I'd still be hesitant to raise the car without the safety backstop of jack stands, but I suppose I could still place them underneath the frame rails if I used 2 floor jacks.

Regarding the pinch welds, I'm aware they are designed to support the full weight of the car - my question was more related to how to raise just the front of the car on the pinch welds without having the car teeter or see-saw back and forth.

Whether I use two floor jacks or two jack stands to support the front (or rear) of the car on the pinch welds, I ALWAYS block the wheels on the opposite end so the whole car cannot move while lifted. You can buy wheel chocks that are made specifically for this and they are fairly inexpensive. I just use sticks of 2x4 I have lying around. Once you've wedged them into the rear tires, the car ain't moving.

I understand the thinking behind wanting to lift from front and rear. Back in the days, when I only had a single floor jack, I used to do the same. These days, I have my own 3-car garage so storage space is not too much of an issue. As much as we spend on these cars, I see no reason not to buy more than 1 floor jack to make it easy for any job I'd want done on my cars. Ramps are good for jobs that don't require wheel, tire or the suspension. This past year, for me, wheel, tire and suspension are like 80-90% of what we did on these two cars.

 

[1816kg]

Whether I use two floor jacks or two jack stands to support the front (or rear) of the car on the pinch welds, I ALWAYS block the wheels on the opposite end so the whole car cannot move while lifted. You can buy wheel chocks that are made specifically for this and they are fairly inexpensive. I just use sticks of 2x4 I have lying around. Once you've wedged them into the rear tires, the car ain't moving.

I understand the thinking behind wanting to lift from front and rear. Back in the days, when I only had a single floor jack, I used to do the same. These days, I have my own 3-car garage so storage space is not too much of an issue. As much as we spend on these cars, I see no reason not to buy more than 1 floor jack to make it easy for any job I'd want done on my cars. Ramps are good for jobs that don't require wheel, tire or the suspension. This past year, for me, wheel, tire and suspension are like 80-90% of what we did on these two cars.

With my previous vehicle WRX, it was so easy to jack from the front and put jack stands in the pinch weld spots.
For me, the problem is when I jack from the pinch weld spots I cannot put a jack stand there as there is no space.

 

[Volfy]

With my previous vehicle WRX, it was so easy to jack from the front and put jack stands in the pinch weld spots.
For me, the problem is when I jack from the pinch weld spots I cannot put a jack stand there as there is no space.

Like I mentioned above, these days I seldom bother to use jack stands to support the car, unless I need to leave the car lifted for extended period. To do that, I first lift the car with the two floor jacks like I always do. Then I use a 3rd floor jack somewhere on the sub frame where the suspension arms are anchored. Raise it slightly to relieve pressure on one floor jack so I can swap it out for a jack stand. This way, the 3rd jack is only supporting one side of the car, only momentarily, and only for a very short lift, with the car remaining very well supported and balanced. I then repeat the procedure on the other side. This is far safer than trying to lift whole front or rear with a single jack ONLY - the whole way up.

 

[1816kg]

Like I mentioned above, these days I seldom bother to use jack stands to support the car, unless I need to leave the car lifted for extended period. To do that, I first lift the car with the two floor jacks like I always do. Then I use a 3rd floor jack somewhere on the sub frame where the suspension arms are anchored. Raise it slightly to relieve pressure on one floor jack so I can swap it out for a jack stand. This way, the 3rd jack is only supporting one side of the car, only momentarily, and only for a very short lift, with the car remaining very well supported and balanced. I then repeat the procedure on the other side. This is far safer than trying to lift whole front or rear with a single jack ONLY - the whole way up.

I do see your point. That’s fair. But I don’t see the difference really if you were to just start by jacking one side of the car from the subframe and placing a jack stand into the pinch weld after it was lifted. Ihmo, the frame is subjected to the same forces, but 15 seconds less.

 

[Volfy]

I do see your point. That’s fair. But I don’t see the difference really if you were to just start by jacking one side of the car from the subframe and placing a jack stand into the pinch weld after it was lifted. Ihmo, the frame is subjected to the same forces, but 15 seconds less.

That is assuming there is a good way to raise one side with a floor jack and replace it with a jack stand. You said it yourself there is no space to do that (see below quote from your post #16).

For me, the problem is when I jack from the pinch weld spots I cannot put a jack stand there as there is no space.

In reality, even if you could do that... what you would have is one side on jack stand up WAY high, while you raise the other side from sitting on the ground to just above the same height as the other side, before swapping out the floor jack with a jack stand. I have done that lots of time with other cars, where that was possible. I always have to be careful when rocking the car side-to-side like that, as the high side could slip off the jack stand.

 

[DAYTA]

In reality, even if you could do that... what you would have is one side on jack stand up WAY high, while you raise the other side from sitting on the ground to just above the same height as the other side, before swapping out the floor jack with a jack stand. I have done that lots of time with other cars, where that was possible. I always have to be careful when rocking the car side-to-side like that, as the high side could slip off the jack stand.

But how do you swap out the floor jack with the jack stand?

If one of the tools (either the jack or the stand) is using the pinch weld, then the other can't because the weld isn't large enough to accommodate both a floor jack and a jack stand at the same time. This was the issue I was alluding to from the start...