G80 2018 3.3t sport battery replacement

[pulsar]

That clamp has a taper to it to match the battery post. Installed upside down you lack full contact surface between clamp and post so you won’t have a good fit. Glad you found and corrected the issue.

 

[tallblazer124]

That clamp has a taper to it to match the battery post. Installed upside down you lack full contact surface between clamp and post so you won’t have a good fit. Glad you found and corrected the issue.

Yes hopefully this was the problem. I am thinking it was and not related to the other problem where people had to install battery terminal shims to make a tighter connection. I don't think people who switched to the did hard battery had this issue. Now on a side note where can I purchase the 10mm flange nuts that holds the postive terminal down?

 

[pulsar]

I know my local Ace Hardware has a good selection of metric stuff. Not sure about the flanged nut though? A 10mm normal nut which will be easy to find and use a washer under it might work just fine if you cannot find the flanged nut. Only benefit I see in the flanged nut is not dropping the separate washer down into never never land.

 

[Green One]

Our 2015 3.8 ultimate sedan has 73K miles and the original battery and rear brakes. Getting a bit nervous... The Duracell Platinum 95R battery looks like a great choice.

If you have gotten 73k and are still on the original rear brakes as well as the original battery you are well ahead of the game. Its a testimony to reasonable driving..Thats 8 plus years, its smart to go shopping..the electronics don't do well when the battery starts to lose its capacity, even slightly..Good luck with your shopping.

 

[joegr]

I have found the linked battery tester to be reasonably accurate. You have to connect it at the battery, not at the jump points. It is cheap enough to be worth having.

Amazon.com

 

[djblack70]

I started having the random complete power loss on my 2018 G80 Sport recently (I've owned it for 2.5 years without any electrical issues), so I replaced the original battery with the Duracell Ultra battery mentioned in this thread. The power loss problem seems to have increased in frequency since switching to the new battery and has once even occurred while the car was parked but still running - it just shut off on its own once in park and everything went dark. (Previously, I've only ever had it happen immediately after shutting the vehicle off... immediately after depressing the off button, everything went dark, and the car was completely unresponsive.)

I did tighten the positive connection quite tightly and never fully removed any nuts from the connector so I don't know how anything could be upside down as tallblazer124 had encountered. I'm curious about the shim some have mentioned... are you talking about a circular shim to fit around the positive terminal of the battery to make it less tapered (and presumably allow more contact between the connector and the post)?

 

[joegr]

It's much more about how tight the clamps are to the battery posts, not just how tight the bolts on the clamps are. Pull up and down and twist left and right on both clamps. If there is any movement at all, then that clamp is too loose and is the problem. Also watch the trunk light for flickers while you are doing this. You probably won't be able to twist the positive clamp, as that assembly is also secured to the car. If the battery itself wasn't fully secured to the floor of the car, then as it moved it would wear down the inside of the positive clamp. This is why some have had to add shims.