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Genesis 5.0 r spec tuning opportunity!!!

Currently I have the zex universal efi v8 blackout wet kit installed. Took about three hours tops and you’ll need a 8mm fuel line adapter from NOS or nitrous express. No dyno results yet but I did just race a full bolt 335i who consistently runs 11.9s and pulled a few fender on him. So I’m guessing I have a 11 genny with the wet shot. I started off with the 75 and it handled it perfect so I switched to the 100. Next time I get to my jet set I’ll put the 125 in and see how she does. My concern is the transmission with our clunky torque management the motor should be gravy with a 200 shot honestly as long as ignition is retarded enough
One thing ( or more) guys should know, if interested in going only 50-75 rwhp( maybe 100max), with the even easier to install dry nos system. You probably should not have a tune installed if doing this. Though the 5.0’s rich ratio is adequate for the above, I was told when I was test bed for the LAP Ecu tune, the rich 5.0’s mixture was lowered to get the tune’s 15-20 rwhp. This technique is used by all tuners for 5.0s. If you put on the bottle without immediately dyno testing the ratio, you could have some problems( serious ). However this saves you at least $1000 because you get all the power you would reasonably need with out spending $$ for a tune and some of their noted unique problems. Cheap horsepower. The wet nos system however allows even more aggressive tunes since you are adding fuel(wet) to the nos, thus keeping ratio rather rich at top end(good). But in any case dyno before celebrating on the street.
 
One thing ( or more) guys should know, if interested in going only 50-75 rwhp( maybe 100max), with the even easier to install dry nos system. You probably should not have a tune installed if doing this. Though the 5.0’s rich ratio is adequate for the above, I was told when I was test bed for the LAP Ecu tune, the rich 5.0’s mixture was lowered to get the tune’s 15-20 rwhp. This technique is used by all tuners for 5.0s. If you put on the bottle without immediately dyno testing the ratio, you could have some problems( serious ). However this saves you at least $1000 because you get all the power you would reasonably need with out spending $$ for a tune and some of their noted unique problems. Cheap horsepower. The wet nos system however allows even more aggressive tunes since you are adding fuel(wet) to the nos, thus keeping ratio rather rich at top end(good). But in any case dyno before celebrating on the street.
I got David Lee to retard my ignition timing 2° only at wot for a 125 wet shot. I’ll probably wind up spraying a 150 if the trans doesn’t go on me.
 
I got David Lee to retard my ignition timing 2° only at wot for a 125 wet shot. I’ll probably wind up spraying a 150 if the trans doesn’t go on me.
Also not to mention since the tau is direct injected, the intake side of the valves never see gas and get cleaned by it. So a good four second spray will definitely loosen up some of that inherent blow by on the valves.
 
Bad news.... Tuner is starting to back away from the idea. "Not enough interest" for him to dedicate his time to it. Man it's gonna be a long hard road for me because I am very hardheaded and can see the potential in this base clearly. Even looking at the cylinder heads there are some major port jobs that can be done. E55 headers are damn near a direct bolt on. It's gonna take one of us completely handing out ass whippings to some "fast cars to grab these guys attention.
Very interesting. I would love to cut the 1st cats out and have my step-son weld in some straight pipes on the headers to my '11 4.6. I bet the headers are a real treat to remove and install though. I really wish I had a spare engine to play with. Would love to have a spare set of heads to port and get them to flow better. I know the 3.8 has the manifold riser which you can install and get 15 HP and 18 TQ. I wonder if it's possible to get one made for our cars and if it would have the same benefit. I contacted a guy in FL that bores out throttle bodies but he said he couldn't do it to our TB's. Frustrating.
 
Very interesting. I would love to cut the 1st cats out and have my step-son weld in some straight pipes on the headers to my '11 4.6. I bet the headers are a real treat to remove and install though. I really wish I had a spare engine to play with. Would love to have a spare set of heads to port and get them to flow better. I know the 3.8 has the manifold riser which you can install and get 15 HP and 18 TQ. I wonder if it's possible to get one made for our cars and if it would have the same benefit. I contacted a guy in FL that bores out throttle bodies but he said he couldn't do it to our TB's. Frustrating.
If that guy is maxbore out FL he can bore out your throttle body he did mine quick turnaround 82mm to 85mm you can have your intake ported by Bigdogs porting he is on facebook. I think are exhaust manifolds are cast I don't think you can weld on them. I have a 2013 rspec I think the newer models exhaust look like they would flow better.
 
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Very interesting. I would love to cut the 1st cats out and have my step-son weld in some straight pipes on the headers to my '11 4.6. I bet the headers are a real treat to remove and install though. I really wish I had a spare engine to play with. Would love to have a spare set of heads to port and get them to flow better. I know the 3.8 has the manifold riser which you can install and get 15 HP and 18 TQ. I wonder if it's possible to get one made for our cars and if it would have the same benefit. I contacted a guy in FL that bores out throttle bodies but he said he couldn't do it to our TB's. Frustrating.
If you use a manifold spacer you are increasing the runners you would pick up torque but lose on the top end that why the 5.0 ohv mustangs have good torque with the long runners but they don't won't rev high.
 
It looks like this will be my next purchase. For $350 it should make a big improvement with the traction issues. I have 285's on the rear and my TC still kicks in often:
It's your car and I admit to having no experience with those but they are known on several forums as rear end killers because of how they work. Nobody makes them anymore but if you can find a locker or even just a limited slip for the front axle of the awd safari, s10 blazers, bravada, etc. it might work. They have a 7.25 ring gear with 26 spline axles like we do. I have no idea if our axles are the same diameter as the GM axles though. Not trying to be a smart ass but tire width is the least important factor in getting traction.
 
It's your car and I admit to having no experience with those but they are known on several forums as rear end killers because of how they work. Nobody makes them anymore but if you can find a locker or even just a limited slip for the front axle of the awd safari, s10 blazers, bravada, etc. it might work. They have a 7.25 ring gear with 26 spline axles like we do. I have no idea if our axles are the same diameter as the GM axles though. Not trying to be a smart ass but tire width is the least important factor in getting traction.
Thanks for the info. That’s what we are hear for to help each other out. There has to be a ton of those old trucks out there. Would love to figure out if that would work. On the traction side of things we don’t have many options for improvements. I’m assuming you mean tire compound as being more important than width on a sports car? With 127k on my car, I would like to go to coil-overs to help several issues with the 1st Gen handling and traction issue. I’ve also installed the R-Spec rear sway bar, ridgid collars and Ultra racing strut tower bar and lower, rear bar. If there are other options, please share.
 
Thanks for the info. That’s what we are hear for to help each other out. There has to be a ton of those old trucks out there. Would love to figure out if that would work. On the traction side of things we don’t have many options for improvements. I’m assuming you mean tire compound as being more important than width on a sports car? With 127k on my car, I would like to go to coil-overs to help several issues with the 1st Gen handling and traction issue. I’ve also installed the R-Spec rear sway bar, ridgid collars and Ultra racing strut tower bar and lower, rear bar. If there are other options, please share.
Yep, we're severely limited for suspension options. Tire compound, sidewall height/softness and the suspension are all more important to a point. Are you more interested in drag racing or auto-x/road course? The options you listed are about it aside from lowering it if you wanted to do that. If we didn't have electronic brake dragging LSD simulation and a nanny that cuts the power off if you spin 2 feet it would help. I have found a couple of options for traction but they are super expensive and would require swapping the rearend out for them both. Quaife makes a differential for the coupe rearend but it costs £858 ($1190) and Cusco MZ makes one for $2001.65

Edit - I emailed eaton a week ago to see if they had something that could be used in these cars but haven't heard anything back. I saw on another source that we have 30 spline axles and not 26.
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When I checked into it the cost for an ECU/TCU tune it was about $1500 canadian. The power gain was about 15 to 25 hp. ECU tune requires a new ECU module. That was by someone who has already cracked the ECU.
Canned tunes were available in the past but did not get a good feedback, hit or miss.
Many discussions on here, tuning is more beneficial for a turbo engine. Normally aspirated engines like ours get minimal gains.
You can send in your ecu/tcu off your car you would be down till you got them back but they said that would work save you from buying new ones. I thought about buying used ones off ebay with matching part numbers to my car that way my car wouldn't be down but mine isn't my daily driver.
 
You can send in your ecu/tcu off your car you would be down till you got them back but they said that would work save you from buying new ones. I thought about buying used ones off ebay with matching part numbers to my car that way my car wouldn't be down but mine isn't my daily driver.
The way I understand it is that used ecu/tcu will not work. Only the original or a copy of the original will work.
 
The way I understand it is that used ecu/tcu will not work. Only the original or a copy of the original will work.
I heard that too but I wasn't sure. Thanks.
 
Used ecu will not work . The vin numbers are burned into the ecu for you specific car.
 
Just a little update for everyone. I didn’t have a dragy but it was estimated my genesis and I ran an 11.8 a couple weekends ago. My buddy got a new 2018 coyote mustang with the 10 speed and I actually beat him by a half a car. I’ve been consistently beating all scat pack as well. The genesis is holding up well so far (knock on wood) I have about 50 sprays through it and I will admit the trans is starting to slip a tiny bit at 71k miles my track is opening soon and I’ll throw some drag radials on and get everyone a legit time slip. Cheers!
 
Just a little update for everyone. I didn’t have a dragy but it was estimated my genesis and I ran an 11.8 a couple weekends ago. My buddy got a new 2018 coyote mustang with the 10 speed and I actually beat him by a half a car. I’ve been consistently beating all scat pack as well. The genesis is holding up well so far (knock on wood) I have about 50 sprays through it and I will admit the trans is starting to slip a tiny bit at 71k miles my track is opening soon and I’ll throw some drag radials on and get everyone a legit time slip. Cheers!
May want to install a large trans cooler. Glad the spray is working well. That’s quite a few launches. Waiting to see drag slip later.
 
BeCool makes really good radiators and transmission coolers. If you consider adding a cooler you may look into them. I've used them on some high hp NA engines and transmissions with high stall converters, never ran hot idling at red lights in the summer and never an issue with transmission temps.
 
That's easily gonna be a low 12 with the spray. The best I can get due to traction issues is 13.08 current mods are muffler delete, xpipe, 4.18 diff and custom

That's easily gonna be a low 12 with the spray. The best I can get due to traction issues is 13.08 current mods are muffler delete, xpipe, 4.18 diff and custom ram air intake
 
That's easily gonna be a low 12 with the spray. The best I can get due to traction issues is 13.08 current mods are muffler delete, xpipe, 4.18 diff and custom ram air intake
Let me chime in, my car ran 12.9 bone stock on a 275 Michelin super sport tire +600 DA. Finn is right these cars can run sub 12 ETs on the Juice. Dude with the 125 shot got to post some numbers I'll invest in a 100 shot to get my car into the high 11's.
 

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