Genesis Break-in Guidance?

[Maxman]

I'm thinking of flying in to pick up a 2012 4.6 from a decent dealer (it's worth a day of my time and a $75 plane ticket not to have to hassle with my local jerk dealers) and driving it about 500 interstate highway miles back home. Is there any available engine "break-in" guidance that would say that's a bad idea?

 

[BacktoHyundaibychoice]

I'm thinking of flying in to pick up a 2012 4.6 from a decent dealer (it's worth a day of my time and a $75 plane ticket not to have to hassle with my local jerk dealers) and driving it about 500 interstate highway miles back home. Is there any available engine "break-in" guidance that would say that's a bad idea?

It's an excellent way to learn your vehicle! As long as...

1. You vary speeds. Don't put it on cruise control for extended periods, go 65 for 10 miles or so, then up it to 75 for 10, then down to 68, etc. Ideally, NOT taking the interstate would be best cuz then you'd be forced to vary speeds.

2. Don't slam the brakes! Use them, brake hard if needed, but avoid putting yourself into a position of having to slam them.

You can go to HMAService.com and register for free. There, you can read the OM online for their specific dos and don'ts.

Or if you're leasing for 3 years, you can ignore all of the above and do what you want. Anything goes wrong it's the next guy's problem!

 

[trotti]

Very useful article from reputable source I more or less followed:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/saturday-mechanic-blog/how-to-break-in-a-new-car

 

[QuantumRift]

I'm thinking of flying in to pick up a 2012 4.6 from a decent dealer (it's worth a day of my time and a $75 plane ticket not to have to hassle with my local jerk dealers) and driving it about 500 interstate highway miles back home. Is there any available engine "break-in" guidance that would say that's a bad idea?

Drive it like you stole it.


Actually the tips provided above are good. Take the time to actually READ the owners manual and don't drone it on at 75 mph for miles and miles....vary the engine speeds and you'll be fine. Accelerate briskly from stops, yati yati yati....Tolerances and fitment of parts is much closer now. Engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. Instead of 10w40 oils, new engines are using 0w20 and 0w30 oils (close tolerances and fuel economy). This in turn changes the break-in requirements, and there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.

The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used. This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the *distant* past.

 

[Glashub]

How many of you changed your oil at 20 miles and 1000 miles or so like the author of trotti's article? Also, detailed the car as soon as I got it including the "shiney protectants" like I do all new cars. Suprised new cars can survive me.

 

[trotti]

How many of you changed your oil at 20 miles and 1000 miles or so like the author of trotti's article? Also, detailed the car as soon as I got it including the "shiney protectants" like I do all new cars. Suprised new cars can survive me.

Just over 20 and at 750.

 

[Skywagon]

The manual for my R-Spec, and I'd wager it's the same for a 4.6, states keep the RPM between 2000-4000. That means even at highway speeds you may have to down shift to 4th gear, or lower to keep it in that range especially since you want to vary engine speeds as well. Even if the car has low miles change the oil and filter and then again at the end of the trip.

 

[Glashub]

Well, I took trotti's advice and changed the oil (350 miles) and must admit it was filthy. Is it necessary to do it again at a 1000 or so? Or is that overkill and just wasting money. Scarily, I could hear the valve tapping for abut 3 seconds after the oil change. I guess the oil pump took that long to send the oil to the top of the engine. Anyone else hear that when they changed the oil? I have a 4.6.

Thanks.

 

[newman]

How many of you changed your oil at 20 miles and 1000 miles or so like the author of trotti's article? Also, detailed the car as soon as I got it including the "shiney protectants" like I do all new cars. Suprised new cars can survive me.

I changed mine at about 80 miles and put in Royal Purple. Yes, I am anal, and yes, I have half a mind that there is probably as much 'marketing' as there is magic to this product.

The oil that came out was pretty clean and I could see no fragments of anything in the filter. But I do feel better to have 'my' oil in the vehicle.

But oh boy baby - 7.19 quarts of oil (for the 5.0 liter)... that is a hungry engine.

Cheers,
Newman

 

[jkburns]

Had mine changed at about 20 miles and again tomorrow at just under 600. Better safe than sorry.

Kevin

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[QuantumRift]

"Fragments in the oil"?

 

[newman]

"Fragments in the oil"?

Please read the article that Trotti posted - that is what I was referring to.

Cheers
Newman

 

[Glashub]

Which synthetic oils and why? Amsoils top of the line is supposed to go 35k or 1 year.

 

[Mark_888]

Which synthetic oils and why? Amsoils top of the line is supposed to go 35k or 1 year.

Even if an oil can go 35K miles (not sure if that is a typo), the warranty requires changing at least every 7500 miles. Since the drive train warranty is 10 years/100K miles, I would recommend that you comply with the specified oil change interval.

I use Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy (this is NOT a European Formula 0-W30 that is inappropriate for a Genesis) which costs about $25 per 5-quart jug (or about $7 in a quart bottle) at Walmart, which is almost always less than an oil change place or dealer will charge for a synthetic oil upgrade, so you can buy your own oil and give it them.

If you insist on an extended change interval oil, you could purchase Mobil 1 Extended Performance (5W-20 or 5W-30) for a little bit more at Walmart. They guarantee Mobil 1 EP to 15K miles, but you need to change it every 7500 for the Hyundai warranty.

 

[Glashub]

Thanks Mark. I forgot about the warranty compliance. The 35 is not a typo -

"The oil used in the testing was Amsoil's top of the line oil and also their most expensive because of this. The recommended interval of this oil is 35,000 miles or one year, while here it was only tested for 3000 miles. This is sort of like ordering food at a restaurant, eating two bites, and throwing the rest away. You can do it, but it is wasteful. The filter used is their standard filter using nano-fiber technology and is rated at 25,000 miles or one year. If you are only using this oil and filter for 3000 miles, you are missing out on a lot, and really spending more money than you need to."

http://mustangs.about.com/gi/rating.../od/accessories/fr/amsoil-review.htm&t=AMSOIL Oil & Filter Review

 

[Mark_888]

Thanks Mark. I forgot about the warranty compliance. The 35 is not a typo -

"The oil used in the testing was Amsoil's top of the line oil and also their most expensive because of this. The recommended interval of this oil is 35,000 miles or one year, while here it was only tested for 3000 miles. This is sort of like ordering food at a restaurant, eating two bites, and throwing the rest away. You can do it, but it is wasteful. The filter used is their standard filter using nano-fiber technology and is rated at 25,000 miles or one year. If you are only using this oil and filter for 3000 miles, you are missing out on a lot, and really spending more money than you need to."

http://mustangs.about.com/gi/rating.../od/accessories/fr/amsoil-review.htm&t=AMSOIL Oil & Filter Review

When you say 35K is not a typo, not sure what that means since you quoted someone who posted in another forum (who may have made a typo) and not an original source. Looking at the Amsoil website, I found this information. Maybe there is a different oil they sell that is 35K, but I could not find it:

SERVICE LIFE
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline-fueled vehicles as follows:

• Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• In all non-gasoline-fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.

*OEM – Original Equipment Manufacturer​

The above AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil sells for $10.55 per quart on the Amsioil website, and I assume there is a shipping charge. I think Mobil 1 at Walmart (and some of the other synthetics they sell in 5 quart jugs) is a bargin.

 

[Glashub]

I can see how that would cause confusion. Here it is from the site.

"Service Life
AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline fueled vehicles as follows:

• Normal Service(3) – Up to 35,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 17,500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval."

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx

 

[Mark_888]

I can see how that would cause confusion. Here it is from the site.

"Service Life
AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline fueled vehicles as follows:

• Normal Service(3) – Up to 35,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 17,500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval."

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx

I stand corrected. They do claim 35K miles for the 0W-30. But it looks like you have to use their AMSOIL Ea oil filter, which is not made to fit the Genesis. And one must change the oil filter at 25K, which means if you wanted to go 35K with the same oil, you would have to add some oil when changing the filter (or maybe add a lot of oil if the filter is on the bottom of the engine).

 

[QuantumRift]

Unless you use a high quality OIL filter, using high end synthetics are pointless and expensive. You can use regular dino oil and get VERY good results if you have a good filter working for you. And I don't mean those $5 FRAM things at Walmart. There's a reason why they are on the self there for $5. Synthetics offer a few advantages....ONE is that since the base stock is man-made (well, in a TRUE synthetic oil it is), it's free of contaminants that cause you problems. Hence you can change it less frequently. The other advantage to synthetics is that it is EASIER to pump thru the engine, and saves you energy. And, synthetics can do a better job of heat removal (20w-50 Mobil 1 V-twin motorcycle oil as an example). But it's all moot if you use a chinsy cheap-a$$ oil filter and end up having to change the oil sooner than necessary. AMSOIL can go a long time, provided you pair it with an AMSOIL or similar filter (if one exists). For my vehicles, I tend to go with K&N or NAPA Gold (Suzuki motorcycle included) filters.

 

[QuantumRift]

Please read the article that Trotti posted - that is what I was referring to.

Cheers
Newman

Yea, I read it.

.."I customarily change the oil in a new engine after about 20 miles, and again at 1000 or so. That 20-mile oil, you would think, would look pretty much like fresh oil right out of the bottle. Wrong. It usually looks more like metal-flake paint, iridescent with tiny particles of metal worn off rubbing surfaces inside the new engines. After a few hours of operation, this completely normal phenomenon slows down as the rings, camshaft, lifters and bearings burnish their respective mating surfaces..."

I've had many new vehicles over the years, and broken them in in various ways, and never, ever have I seen what this guy says he sees in his oil. You used to see metal particles in the bottom of the automatic transmission oilpan on my old Chevy's due to band wear, but that's another story...

Now, in the above story, where's the oil filter in this equation? Non-existent or bypassing?