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Genesis dealer trying to charge $205 for SIMPLE oil change!!

from page 2-12 in the '23 owner's manual:

1673306624284.webp

again, factory spec calls for synthetic motor oils. anything other than full synth is termed "lower grade" (dino or semi-synth) and "must be replaced" along with the filter. for 2.0T, only 0W30 is called up which is exclusively synthetic. for the 3.3T, 5W30 is also available as a dino or a blend, but Genesis spec specifies a synth oil spec which eliminates the "lower grade" non-fully-synth oil. not sure how a dealer would get around that...
 
from page 2-12 in the '23 owner's manual:

View attachment 50735

again, factory spec calls for synthetic motor oils. anything other than full synth is termed "lower grade" (dino or semi-synth) and "must be replaced" along with the filter. for 2.0T, only 0W30 is called up which is exclusively synthetic. for the 3.3T, 5W30 is also available as a dino or a blend, but Genesis spec specifies a synth oil spec which eliminates the "lower grade" non-fully-synth oil. not sure how a dealer would get around that...
Shop manual shows that 5W30 is also acceptable for the 2.0. Back in 2019, when the G70 first came out, 0W30 was hard to come by. The only thing Hyundai had in 0W30 was Pennzoil Platinum in 55 gallon drums, and it wasn't cheap. Same with my normal oil distributer (Valvoline). With what little money they were giving us for the pre paid maintenance on the Genesis, we would be losing money on each oil change, so we stuck with 5W30 full synthetic since it was much cheaper. It wasn't until 2020 or 2021 that they upped the amount they would reimburse us for the pre paid oil changes, and the oil is more readily available.
 
Ah, so the GV70 has a 2.5 or 3.3. Not the 3.5. I stand corrected. Thanks.
 
Ah, so the GV70 has a 2.5 or 3.3. Not the 3.5. I stand corrected. Thanks.
GV70 has a 2.5 or 3.5. OP has a G70, which is a 2.0 or 3.3
 
OK, so I was right. :)
 
Nope. The OP clearly states -

"I purchased my used CPO 2022 Genesis G70 (3.3 T Sport Prestige) 3 months ago with 7000 miles on it."

That car comes with the 2.0 or 3.3.
 
The 2.0t and 3.3t take 5W30. Only the 2.5t and 3.5t take 0W30.
My '23 also has '0w30' on the oil cap. Doesn't say in the manual to use 5/30. You could, but it's always better to use 0/30, since it's thinner when cold, meaning less cold start wear at any temperature. Anyway, M1 0/30 is easier to find now, but still not widely available. I stock up whenever I find it.
 
Here is the invoice for the Full Synth oil change. No other service was done.
 

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All this could have been avoided, if you didn't leave your car at the dealership after you have been quoted a price you don't like.

Drive your car off, shop somewhere else, find a price & service you like, then leave the car there for the work to be done.
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Do you have your actual invoice from the dealer? Not the online quoted price. If the dealer services both brands, that $55 is guaranteed the Hyundai 4 cylinder no frills oil change. I charge about $130 for an 8qt oil change. Without seeing the invoice it is hard for anybody to say what's right and what's wrong. However, the service advisor should provide you with a price and obtain your authorization before moving forward with the service. Giving you a surprise when you pick up is a no no.
 

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All this could have been avoided, if you didn't leave your car at the dealership after you have been quoted a price you don't like.

Drive your car off, shop somewhere else, find a price & service you like, then leave the car there for the work to be done.
Aye aye aye... I get it.
See post #30.

It became more of a principle thing. I was asking the dealer to justify $205. Especially, given the highest competitor was at $104
Which they couldn't do.
 
Dealer used Castrol 5W-30 full synthetic instead of the recommended 0W-30 on my GV80 when they did the complimentary oil change. If I lived in a colder climate that might have bothered me but since I live in Texas it's no big deal. It's the additives like molybdenum that provide most of the wear protection during startup anyways. Moly actually sticks-to/coats metal parts.
 
Dealer used Castrol 5W-30 full synthetic instead of the recommended 0W-30 on my GV80 when they did the complimentary oil change. If I lived in a colder climate that might have bothered me but since I live in Texas it's no big deal. It's the additives like molybdenum that provide most of the wear protection during startup anyways. Moly actually sticks-to/coats metal parts.
I wouldn't fuss over 5w30, even if I lived up north. Mfrs spec 0w oils mainly for fuel efficiency, as the EPA tests with the mfr's recommended oil fill.

If you look up the spec sheet for that Castrol full synthetic, 0w20, 5w20, 5w30 and 10w30 all have the same pour point temp of -38F.


I've even seen some 5w30 outperform 0w20 in that regard. For example, Moil 1 ESP has pour point of -48F.
In fact, the above link specifically mentioned it as a substitute for cars that calls for 0w30. Except below:

"Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 carries recommendations for a wide range of passenger cars, SUVs and light vans. It is designed for modern high efficiency gasoline, diesel and hybrid cars from Porsche, Volkswagen, Mercedes-Benz and General Motors, as well as for Japanese and Korean vehicles that specifically call for a SAE 0W-30 viscosity grade and any of the specifications the oil supports, allowing for extended oil change intervals where recommended by the manufacturer."

Moral of the story is... so the dealer might tell you they used XXX brand or YYY grade oil. Regardless of how much $$ they charge you, how exactly do you know what actually went into your car? Or whether that is good or bad? If you are gonna fuss over your engine oil, the only way to know for certain is for you to do the due diligence, find out the exactly specs, have you yourself buy the oil and pour it into your own engine with your own hands... or watch somebody else open the same bottle(s) and pour it in your engine.
 
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Moral of the story is... so the dealer might tell you they used XXX brand or YYY grade oil. Regardless of how much $$ they charge you, how exactly do you know what actually went into your car? Or whether that is good or bad? If you are gonna fuss over your engine oil, the only way to know for certain is for you to do the due diligence, find out the exactly specs, have you yourself buy the oil and pour it into your own engine with your own hands... or watch somebody else open the same bottle(s) and pour it in your engine.
My first car was a '53 Mercury, flathead V8. No oil changes needed, just add a quart frequently. The Merit gas station used to sell re-refined motor oil. Don't recall the price but less than half the name brand stuff.

Oh, this was 1963 and gas was .199/gallon.
 
My first car was a '53 Mercury, flathead V8. No oil changes needed, just add a quart frequently. The Merit gas station used to sell re-refined motor oil. Don't recall the price but less than half the name brand stuff.

Oh, this was 1963 and gas was .199/gallon.
LOL... I'm a youngin' compared to you.

Back in the late '80s and early '90s when I lived in Buffalo, NY, I was friends with a small group of college guys that were all into watercooled VWs. My garage was better tooled than theirs, so it was common to do oil-change parties at my place. We would accumulate 5-6 gals of used motor oil before taking them to the recycling center. My next door neighbor had a couple of old jalopies that apparently burnt through oil faster than he was willing to buy even the cheapest motor oil with his welfare check. He saw the used oil and asked me if I'd mind him taking them. Sure... help yourself. Saved us trips to the recycling center. I lost count of how many gals he took, but it was a lot.
 
Bob is the Oil Guy website goes into great detail on this topic so I don't want to start a discussion here that's better done there.... but in short, the real reason to choose 0W is QUALITY. 0W has to be made with premium base oils and additives. So I'm OK with a good 5W like Castrol. That's my preferred brand actually. I used to buy 0W German Castrol just for the Ketjenlube additive. Sadly they don't sell it here in the USA anymore.
 
0w weight oil produces less friction in cold weather than 5w, and can offer better fleet MPG averages, keeping the government environmentalist happy. I think they'll choose it for that reason over engine longevity.
 
You can call into their parts department and ask them what full synthetic and an oil filter costs for your car and see if it matches or is close to what's on your service invoice. There's usually some discrepancies between retail over the counter and shop tickets. I'm at around $80 parts cost for oil and filter on a 3.3.
 
I searched the threads for synthetic oil change COST... but couldn't find anything specific to SYNTHETIC oil change.

PLEASE FORGIVE THE RANT...

I purchased my used CPO 2022 Genesis G70 (3.3 T Sport Prestige) 3 months ago with 7000 miles on it. They did a service at the time of purchase using conventional oil (as the sticker for next due read 3 mo./ 3000 miles).

I booked today's service (10,000 miles) with my local dealer via my Genesis Owners Homepage. The cost reflected $55.95 (again, for conventional).
When I dropped the car off, I requested Full-Synthetic oil.
I was told that the oil change would cost $205.00!!
For JUST the oil change... no other service.

When I questioned the cost, I was told that it reflected the expensive cost of the oil and "because it is a luxury brand car."

I left the car there and began calling all the dealers in New England to comp their FULL SYNTHETIC prices. The highest I found was $104, but that included tire rotation....
When I brought this comparison to the Service Manager's attention, she told me that I'm free to go elsewhere. I asked if they had ANY thought of customer retention. She said that she doesn't set the prices and that they are set independently at each dealership.
When I asked about the $55.95 online price (for conventional- which I would never run in a 3.3 turbo), she said that was a "mistake" and they she is aware that the online prices are wrong.
The same service manager also told me that there's no benefit using Full Synthetic and there's no need to run anything but 87 octane

She said I'm the first Genesis owner to complain about the price of an oil change.
I found that VERY hard to believe.

I have left several messages for the GM to contact me and am considering other options.
For now, I am not naming the dealer in question in hopes that the GM contacts me in an attempt to "make this right."

*** I'm reaching out to see if anyone has experienced this level of PRICE GOUGING at their dealership? ***

I have the paperwork ($205) and screenshots (of the online booking) to back up the above.

I would normally never take the time/effort to post regarding something like this. But when you WANT to trust a brand a develop a "relationship" with a dealer after spending nearly $50,000, it leaves me wondering what the business model and mindset is for a manager to simply say, "you are free to go elsewhere."
Go to ANYONE but this dealer for your oil change. True rip off!!!
 
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