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Genesis problems

chris85

New member
Joined
Aug 10, 2023
Messages
6
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Genesis Model Year
2012
Genesis Model Type
1G Genesis Sedan (2009-2014)
I have a 2012 genesis v8, 5.0. the other day I had put gas in car and when I went to start it I had no power at all..I got a jump and the esc ,brake and check engine light came on and started shaking and it died. I jumped again and the rpm starting goin up to 5000 rpm and I was r even pushing the gas peddle and alot of black smoke was coming out the exhaust . I shut it off cuz it was just reving up the engine. I jumped it again and it was fine , I ade it home.amd next day went to start it and no power at all. Don't know what the hell wrong with it
 
Use a OBD2 From Amazon.
 
I have a 2012 genesis v8, 5.0. the other day I had put gas in car and when I went to start it I had no power at all..I got a jump and the esc ,brake and check engine light came on and started shaking and it died. I jumped again and the rpm starting goin up to 5000 rpm and I was r even pushing the gas peddle and alot of black smoke was coming out the exhaust . I shut it off cuz it was just reving up the engine. I jumped it again and it was fine , I ade it home.amd next day went to start it and no power at all. Don't know what the hell wrong with it
Throttle position sensor?
 
Don't know nutin about cars. What is that is it expensive like everything else on that car? My radio will work and turnout of know where turn off and the screen will be just black until it wants to turn on again. 1 or 2 weeks
 
Don't know nutin about cars. What is that is it expensive like everything else on that car? My radio will work and turnout of know where turn off and the screen will be just black until it wants to turn on again. 1 or 2 weeks
To quote "yurieau", Purchase an OBD-2 from Amazon. The new ones are reasonably priced and read quite a bit of the automobile systems. I honestly don't know how much it costs.
 
I have a 2012 genesis v8, 5.0. the other day I had put gas in car and when I went to start it I had no power at all..I got a jump and the esc ,brake and check engine light came on and started shaking and it died. I jumped again and the rpm starting goin up to 5000 rpm and I was r even pushing the gas peddle and alot of black smoke was coming out the exhaust . I shut it off cuz it was just reving up the engine. I jumped it again and it was fine , I ade it home.amd next day went to start it and no power at all. Don't know what the hell wrong with it
Oh, that sounds like your purge valve solenoid on top of the engine. It's very easy to replace and I just replaced it on my 2012 4.6 because I put gas in the tank and then it didn't want to start, which is a classic symptom of a bad purge valve solenoid. Btw, when that happens, just push the gas pedal to the floor and keep cranking the engine, it will start after a while.

My check engine light was on as well, but after I installed the new purge valve solenoid and drove the car for a while, the check engine light cleared itself after a day or so.

I bought my new one at AutoZone. I went ahead and got the Dorman one because the reviews were better than the $20 ones on Amazon and also because I could buy it that day and install it.

 
To quote "yurieau", Purchase an OBD-2 from Amazon. The new ones are reasonably priced and read quite a bit of the automobile systems. I honestly don't know how much it costs.

Oh, that sounds like your purge valve solenoid on top of the engine. It's very easy to replace and I just replaced it on my 2012 4.6 because I put gas in the tank and then it didn't want to start, which is a classic symptom of a bad purge valve solenoid. Btw, when that happens, just push the gas pedal to the floor and keep cranking the engine, it will start after a while.

My check engine light was on as well, but after I installed the new purge valve solenoid and drove the car for a while, the check engine light cleared itself after a day or so.

I bought my new one at AutoZone. I went ahead and got the Dorman one because the reviews were better than the $20 ones on Amazon and also because I could buy it that day and install it.

Well it was started. It was on and engine was reving 5000 rpm and I didn't even have foot on gas and a lot of smoke was coming out the exhaust.
 
Oh, that sounds like your purge valve solenoid on top of the engine. It's very easy to replace and I just replaced it on my 2012 4.6 because I put gas in the tank and then it didn't want to start, which is a classic symptom of a bad purge valve solenoid. Btw, when that happens, just push the gas pedal to the floor and keep cranking the engine, it will start after a while.

My check engine light was on as well, but after I installed the new purge valve solenoid and drove the car for a while, the check engine light cleared itself after a day or so.

I bought my new one at AutoZone. I went ahead and got the Dorman one because the reviews were better than the $20 ones on Amazon and also because I could buy it that day and install it.

Good info.
 
I had a 2009 4.6 that had similar issues as you except for the black smoke. I couldn't figure the problem myself and spent 1k on parts/labor. I went to a mechanic that didn't do their due diligence and was just replacing parts trying their best guess. It seems as the car is getting older I am seeing this problem more. If it is same as mine, it most likely is electrical related and probably needs a new ECU/ECM. I didn't bother with this as the car was only worth a few grand and gave up but that might be the culprit. Hyundai didn't make this car to last 20 years, they only wanted it to last 10 years. Sucks too because this was a good car until I had this problem.

Also if it is ECU/ECM OBD2 Scanner will not pick it up. This was very hard to diagnose which is why I gave up on the car.
 
I had a 2009 4.6 that had similar issues as you except for the black smoke. I couldn't figure the problem myself and spent 1k on parts/labor. I went to a mechanic that didn't do their due diligence and was just replacing parts trying their best guess. It seems as the car is getting older I am seeing this problem more. If it is same as mine, it most likely is electrical related and probably needs a new ECU/ECM. I didn't bother with this as the car was only worth a few grand and gave up but that might be the culprit. Hyundai didn't make this car to last 20 years, they only wanted it to last 10 years. Sucks too because this was a good car until I had this problem.

Also if it is ECU/ECM OBD2 Scanner will not pick it up. This was very hard to diagnose which is why I gave up on the car. If car continues to die at low speeds/rpm, I will say it is most likely ECU
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I had a 2009 4.6 that had similar issues as you except for the black smoke. I couldn't figure the problem myself and spent 1k on parts/labor. I went to a mechanic that didn't do their due diligence and was just replacing parts trying their best guess. It seems as the car is getting older I am seeing this problem more. If it is same as mine, it most likely is electrical related and probably needs a new ECU/ECM. I didn't bother with this as the car was only worth a few grand and gave up but that might be the culprit. Hyundai didn't make this car to last 20 years, they only wanted it to last 10 years. Sucks too because this was a good car until I had this problem.

Also if it is ECU/ECM OBD2 Scanner will not pick it up. This was very hard to diagnose which is why I gave up on the car. If car continues to die at low speeds/rpm, I will say it is most likely ECU
Sorry to hear about your BH Sedan issues. I'm currently over eleven years and 244K miles so I guess I have nine more years of life.
 
I had a 2009 4.6 that had similar issues as you except for the black smoke. I couldn't figure the problem myself and spent 1k on parts/labor. I went to a mechanic that didn't do their due diligence and was just replacing parts trying their best guess. It seems as the car is getting older I am seeing this problem more. If it is same as mine, it most likely is electrical related and probably needs a new ECU/ECM. I didn't bother with this as the car was only worth a few grand and gave up but that might be the culprit. Hyundai didn't make this car to last 20 years, they only wanted it to last 10 years. Sucks too because this was a good car until I had this problem.

Also if it is ECU/ECM OBD2 Scanner will not pick it up. This was very hard to diagnose which is why I gave up on the car. If car continues to die at low speeds/rpm, I will say it is most likely ECU
Interesting. Well, my 2012 is now 14 years of age and runs great, now that I installed the new purge valve solenoid. The center console control knob has been balky on the downward push for several years, but I just sprayed some compressed air around the little post onto which the knob sits and that seems to have fixed the problem.

The remaining problems are too pricey to justify repairing. The folding mirrors no longer fold, but the mirrors do adjust vertically and horizontally, and they tilt down upon putting the car in Reverse. And the driver's power door lock doesn't work(you can lock it manually). It probably needs the actuator replaced. I stopped by the Hyundai dealer yesterday to ask about the door lock and they quoted me $900-1,000. I don't know if this is normal, but the guy told me their labor rate is $190/hour. I think I'll just use the little key that comes out of the key fob.
 
Well it was started. It was on and engine was reving 5000 rpm and I didn't even have foot on gas and a lot of smoke was coming out the exhaust.
When the purge valve is bad, the engine basically gets flooded with gasoline when you put gas in the tank, which causes it to be hard to start. And once it starts, it has a lot of gasoline to burn.
 
When the purge valve is bad, the engine basically gets flooded with gasoline when you put gas in the tank, which causes it to be hard to start. And once it starts, it has a lot of gasoline to burn.
That makes sense.
 
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I stopped by the Hyundai dealer yesterday to ask about the door lock and they quoted me $900-1,000. I don't know if this is normal, but the guy told me their labor rate is $190/hour.

$60 aftermarket part ($100 OEM) and 2 hour job book time. Even for a $200 part marked up 100% and $200/hr it should be $600 tops.

They gave you the "f$%k off, we don't want to fix it" price.

Couple screws and a handful of busted door panel clips later, you can do this in an afternoon.
 
$60 aftermarket part ($100 OEM) and 2 hour job book time. Even for a $200 part marked up 100% and $200/hr it should be $600 tops.

They gave you the "f$%k off, we don't want to fix it" price.

Couple screws and a handful of busted door panel clips later, you can do this in an afternoon.
And one of the Wizards has spoken. I will remember this one.
 
$60 aftermarket part ($100 OEM) and 2 hour job book time. Even for a $200 part marked up 100% and $200/hr it should be $600 tops.

They gave you the "f$%k off, we don't want to fix it" price.

Couple screws and a handful of busted door panel clips later, you can do this in an afternoon.
Thanks. Now, I'm not convinced that the problem is the actuator itself because the lock sometimes does work.
 
I've had this issue for over several thousand miles. All of these sensors replaced, and the computer couldn't clear the TPMS light. I was leaving a gas station several months ago after picking up carry out foot from staying with my in-laws and the bump leaving the gas station cleared the TPMS light. Came back within 10 minutes.
 
I've had this issue for over several thousand miles. All of these sensors replaced, and the computer couldn't clear the TPMS light. I was leaving a gas station several months ago after picking up carry out foot from staying with my in-laws and the bump leaving the gas station cleared the TPMS light. Came back within 10 minutes.
Several years ago, my wife wanted to get tires for our 2012 Hyundai Genesis 4.6 at a local tire store whose owner we knew instead of using Discount Tire as I usually do. So I bought tires at this store and they somehow damaged one tire pressure sensor. They told me about it and replaced the sensor.

But after I drove for a while the light came on. So I took it back and they synced it again. The light came back on. Then they say they bought a sensor from Hyundai and synced it again. Sure enough, the light came back on. Apparently, only a Hyundai dealer can get it synced so that the TPMS light stays off. But I refuse to pay the dealer to do that when I shouldn't have to. Needless to say, I have not bought any more tires at that shop.

So, we've been driving the car with the TPMS light on for several years. Now, I bought a set of tires at Discount Tire in July and I told them about the sensor and they said they would sync it. Well, they did get the light to go out, but it came back on after a few miles.
 
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