has anyone replaced shocks / struts / springs? 2013 RSpec

[OUsig]

Hello all

The great people at NTB said my front struts were "sagging" leading to the fact the car slightly drifts to the right and they cant get the alignment right.
Want to hear the funny part...???
they quoted me $2,474.00 to replace the front 2 struts and springs!!!! LOL

I know you can get OEM ones for under $300/side including the spring but I didn't know if anyone has replaced these yet and if so, should I get new mounts and other pieces?

Are the OEM struts anything "special"? I imagine it is best to stay with OEM as I am not putting on an AutoZone special for this vehicle.

 

[dougmcp]

This is one I would consult the dealer for an opinion. My guess there is nothing wrong or in worst case strut and spring replace should be about $1000.
P zero could have a bad belt, try rotating tires to see if it still pulls the same way.

 

[Mark_888]

I would go with the OEM. Either have the dealer do it, or find a good suspension shop to do it. I found a good suspension shop by asking Costco Tire Department for an alignment. Costco said they don't do alignments, and referred me to an excellent suspension shop near by.

You can browse the parts catalog online using google, and it probably won't hurts to get a some of the extra bushings, etc replaced at same time.

 

[wallymn]

Same car. Not done. What mileage and what roads require spring replacement? Struts wear but the springs? Without a break how would they know?

 

[Youseethefight]

http://www.bcracing-na.com/hyundai-genesis-sedan-r-spec-br-type-spotlight/

 

[memphiskane]

I had to do my rear shocks at about 70,000 due to new tire cupping. Probably should have done them closer to 60,000. I have a 12 r-spec and couldn't find any aftermarket support outside of coilovers at the time. Need to do the fronts as well. Huge difference in ride quality from just changing out the rears. Best way to describe it is the rear end felt squirly over uneven/bumpy pavement before changing them out. There were no signs of wear (leaks, damage, etc) I just believe they got worn out.

I cant imagine the springs are bad but def the shocks depending on road conditions were you live.

 

[OUsig]

Did you replace yourself? It looks easy enough for the front and back. I have replaced in multiple other vehicles in the past and am familiar with the spring compressor need.

I agree with what you say about the car feeling like it is on marbles sometimes and really rough at other times.
My new tires helped a ton but with nearly 86k miles, I believe all 4 struts need to be replaced. No way I am paying silly NTB prices.
Good to hear it helped your ride

And I would think replacing the struts and the mounts is plenty. The springs are pretty cheap ($50 ish each) but not needed (most likely).

 

[Genegoesfast]

I've got a set of stock struts and springs with 30,000 if you'd like a lesser expensive OEM option.

 

[memphiskane]

I do all my own work. For the rear its pretty simple its just a little tight in there on the bottom. Just ended up doing them in my driveway vs on a lift.

I didn't do the fronts but yet but I know you will need a ball joint separator tool. There are two upper control arms with a ball joint each, just seems like using the old hammer hit it till it releases or pickle fork isn't going to work, will just kill them i think. Harbor freight has one that supposedly works fairly well that isn't all that expensive.

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...r-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

 

[OUsig]

are the control arms in the way on the fronts or why do they need to be removed? I haven't looked too close (any) yet, maybe I should do that before I get too excited. Though yes harbor freight is great for tools like that and there is a brand new one near my house.

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[memphiskane]

The factory repair manual shows them needing to be separated. Will try and take a closer look tonight to see if it can be done without.

 

[OUsig]

great thanks. This suspension is an interesting design. quite a bit different from my last vehicle (1999 Acura TL sold with 285,000 miles that had a double wishbone front and rear) or our current 2007 Tahoe that is about as easy as can be.

 

[memphiskane]

From what I could tell the strut is actually mounted to a plate on top that the upper control arms pass through. That plate is bolted in to the underside of the wheel well. I am not seeing access through the engine bay like on most cars. You remove the mounting plate completely from car then disassemble the shock from that. Doesn't look complicated just like an extra step. I may be very wrong on this but after eyeballing it and the factory repair manual I don't think you can get away with out disengaging the ball joints.

 

[OUsig]

I see a small black cover in the engine bay but it seems to look right down on the control arms you speak of.

 

[memphiskane]

if you end up taking it on in the near future please let us know for sure what you find. I wont be doing this till at least the spring

 

[OUsig]

I will this year for sure. I found a local repair shop and the owner happens to own a 2013 rspec himself! I saw it outside a few times and went in just because of that
He said for $300 he would install all 4 sides and he recommended OEM and I buy myself to save money vs his markup.
Said no reason to change the springs.

 

[84FordMan]

No aftermarket shocks/struts are available for the Genesis Sedan, just coilovers. So you are stuck with dealer new or used OEM.

With that said, I purchased some used RSpec front strut assemblies for $150 to replace my sagging ones on my 2011 4.6 a few weeks back. Easier than some cars I have worked on in the past as far as replacement. One bolt in the bottom of the strut and four holding the top housing to the frame, and the one nut for the sway bar end link and one for the brake line holder. The upper control arms need to be unbolted from the knuckle and separated from the knuckle, get a big hammer or a pickle fork for this, they are under some tension so a few whacks with the hammer on to the top of the knuckle and they will spring free. Then you can lean the entire strut and housing assembly out from the fender.

Thankfully my used ones came with the aluminum top plates, so I just replaced the upper strut mounts with fresh ones and put it all back together. Whole process took about an hour to an hour and a half (Was using a vehicle lift).

 

[Bill K]

Did your dealer agree with NTB's diagnosis, or did they laugh?????

 

[66nexus]

No aftermarket shocks/struts are available for the Genesis Sedan, just coilovers. So you are stuck with dealer new or used OEM.

With that said, I purchased some used RSpec front strut assemblies for $150 to replace my sagging ones on my 2011 4.6 a few weeks back. Easier than some cars I have worked on in the past as far as replacement. One bolt in the bottom of the strut and four holding the top housing to the frame, and the one nut for the sway bar end link and one for the brake line holder. The upper control arms need to be unbolted from the knuckle and separated from the knuckle, get a big hammer or a pickle fork for this, they are under some tension so a few whacks with the hammer on to the top of the knuckle and they will spring free. Then you can lean the entire strut and housing assembly out from the fender.

Thankfully my used ones came with the aluminum top plates, so I just replaced the upper strut mounts with fresh ones and put it all back together. Whole process took about an hour to an hour and a half (Was using a vehicle lift).

Do those R-Spec shocks feel any different on your oem susp? I've also wondered if they would be a better fit for a lowering spring since they're a part of a more aggressive setup than non R-Spec.

 

[Mark_888]

Do those R-Spec shocks feel any different on your oem susp? I've also wondered if they would be a better fit for a lowering spring since they're a part of a more aggressive setup than non R-Spec.

The 2009-2011 suspensions were quite firm. Starting in 2012, the Genesis retuned the suspension to be much less firm, except for the R-Spec, which is pretty close to the 2009-2011 stock suspension.

One thing that is highly recommended for 2009-2011 owners is to replace the rear stabilizer bar with a 2012-2014 bar (same bar for both V6 and V8). The new one is hollow instead of solid, and only costs about $125 at online Hyundai Parts websites.

The springs and shocks (rear) / struts (front) are tuned to work together, and I would not mix and match them (get all 2012 or all 2010), the only exception being the rear stabilizer. Plus, as I said, the 2012 R-Spec is not much different than the 2009-2011 V8 suspension (again, accept for the rear stabilizer).