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Heated Seat Failure and DIY Repair

powerslide

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I saw at least 1 thread discussing the flashing light on the heated seat switch on a 1st Gen Genesis. Unfortunately, I was experiencing the same problem in my 2015 2G. I would turn on the heated seat and within 10 seconds or so, the top light only would start flashing and could not be reset without turning off the car. I'm over 70k miles and the 1G fix was a total replacement of the lower seat for $800 = not an option for me. I checked the 25 amp fuse under the hood and it was fine. The other three seat heaters worked fine. So I decided to take things apart and see what I could see. This was on a base model so the driver seat does NOT have the cooling option or leg extension.

There are a couple straps on the bottom back of the seat that hook onto the underside of the seat cushion area. After removing those, the lower portion of the back seat cover will flex up and away. from there I was able raise the power seat all the way up for clearance and unclip several connectors (power seat back/heated seat back/heated seat base). The smaller clips (white and gray) are part of the seat heater wiring. I was able to use a multimeter to determine I had continuity through the seat back heater, but no continuity through the seat base heater (yellow and black wires). I believe this is what the control unit was sensing and shutting it down with the flashing light. There are also thin white and brown wires going to the seat base that is the thermocouple to control the temperature.

In order to remove the seat base cushion and cover I had to remove the plastic bezel from the front of the seat. There is a plastic cap near the center console with a spot for a small screw driver to pop it off nearest the center console. Remove the screw. The other end of this bezel just clips into the next piece that is still screwed in. Gently bend away and unclip. This exposes the screw for the next piece. There are a bunch of clips attached to the perimeter of the leather seat cover that hook on the underside of the seat base. I was able to remove all of these by hand and a couple with the help of a screw driver. Then I was able to pull the cushion free.
Gennt Seat Base.webp
I pulled back the leather and found that the heater in the left edge of the seat nearest the door had dramatically overheated until it failed.
Genny Seat Damage.webp
I removed the damaged wire and replaced it with some much larger gauge copper wire. I soldered it in and used shrink tube to insulate it. It won't heat, but it will keep the circuit complete and allow the rest of the non-damaged resistive filament to heat.
Genny Seat Repair.webp
I put everything back together and it works great again. I suspect the wear and tear of getting in and out of the car damaged the braided heater filament in that location so that the power was running through fewer strands which should cause it to get hotter than it was designed to. I don't know how long it will last but I'm glad to have a heated seat again. Hopefully this helps someone.

Powerslide
 
Good work!
 
I saw at least 1 thread discussing the flashing light on the heated seat switch on a 1st Gen Genesis. Unfortunately, I was experiencing the same problem in my 2015 2G. I would turn on the heated seat and within 10 seconds or so, the top light only would start flashing and could not be reset without turning off the car. I'm over 70k miles and the 1G fix was a total replacement of the lower seat for $800 = not an option for me. I checked the 25 amp fuse under the hood and it was fine. The other three seat heaters worked fine. So I decided to take things apart and see what I could see. This was on a base model so the driver seat does NOT have the cooling option or leg extension.

There are a couple straps on the bottom back of the seat that hook onto the underside of the seat cushion area. After removing those, the lower portion of the back seat cover will flex up and away. from there I was able raise the power seat all the way up for clearance and unclip several connectors (power seat back/heated seat back/heated seat base). The smaller clips (white and gray) are part of the seat heater wiring. I was able to use a multimeter to determine I had continuity through the seat back heater, but no continuity through the seat base heater (yellow and black wires). I believe this is what the control unit was sensing and shutting it down with the flashing light. There are also thin white and brown wires going to the seat base that is the thermocouple to control the temperature.

In order to remove the seat base cushion and cover I had to remove the plastic bezel from the front of the seat. There is a plastic cap near the center console with a spot for a small screw driver to pop it off nearest the center console. Remove the screw. The other end of this bezel just clips into the next piece that is still screwed in. Gently bend away and unclip. This exposes the screw for the next piece. There are a bunch of clips attached to the perimeter of the leather seat cover that hook on the underside of the seat base. I was able to remove all of these by hand and a couple with the help of a screw driver. Then I was able to pull the cushion free.
View attachment 11541
I pulled back the leather and found that the heater in the left edge of the seat nearest the door had dramatically overheated until it failed.
View attachment 11543
I removed the damaged wire and replaced it with some much larger gauge copper wire. I soldered it in and used shrink tube to insulate it. It won't heat, but it will keep the circuit complete and allow the rest of the non-damaged resistive filament to heat.
View attachment 11544
I put everything back together and it works great again. I suspect the wear and tear of getting in and out of the car damaged the braided heater filament in that location so that the power was running through fewer strands which should cause it to get hotter than it was designed to. I don't know how long it will last but I'm glad to have a heated seat again. Hopefully this helps someone.

Powerslide

Definitely great work. However....I'm going to ask the obvious question here....why not take it to the dealer for warranty replacement? I'm certain your car is still under warranty? This seems like wasted effort.
 
I removed the damaged wire and replaced it with some much larger gauge copper wire. I soldered it in and used shrink tube to insulate it. It won't heat, but it will keep the circuit complete and allow the rest of the non-damaged resistive filament to heat.

My concern is you have changed the resistance in the heating wires. No expert on this but if they heat more due to the modified repair work then you may have a possible fire issue. It already looks like it came close the that looking at how charred the foam is.
 
Definitely great work. However....I'm going to ask the obvious question here....why not take it to the dealer for warranty replacement? I'm certain your car is still under warranty? This seems like wasted effort.

Bumper to bumper was done at 60k miles. I'm almost to 80k miles. Only powertrain protection left for me.

- - - Updated - - -

My concern is you have changed the resistance in the heating wires. No expert on this but if they heat more due to the modified repair work then you may have a possible fire issue. It already looks like it came close the that looking at how charred the foam is.

I would love to hear an electrician or other qualified individual to chime in. I was very wary the first time I used it because I knew if I were wrong, a fire could result. However, I believe that the resistance isn't changed much. My understanding is that the heat is created by the resistance which is in turn a product of the metal alloy, the cross sectional area and length of the wire (thinner/longer = higher resistance). The heating element is a dark, stranded (4-6 strands) metal wire (not copper) with an outer jacket that winds back and forth all over the seating surface. I wouldn't be surprised if there is 8-10 ft of wire there. I believe what happened is that a few of the strands were broken which may have roughly doubled the resistance, in turn doubling the temperature in that location which caused it to overheat. The replacement section was much thicker, solid copper which would have much lower resistance over that 4-6" section. The distance is so short compared to the total length that I think the resistance of the whole circuit has changed very little.
 
How did you seated seat repair hold up? I have the same issue and now the weather is getting colder and I'm tempted to try your fix.

Do you think this fix is possible without removing the entire seat bottom? The button lights never flashed then just turn off within about 10 seconds then they won't turn on again until i restart the car, then the same problem occurs.


Thanks for the post
 
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Good job man love seeing people dig in and fixing things.
 
I'm a little over 80k miles on my G80 and experiencing the same flashing top light on the driver seat heater.
 
I’ve got the same thing going on, I just took it in to the Hyundai dealership and I’m awaiting the crazy cost of fixing it.
 
I would have just abandoned the existing heat elements and put in a retrofit kit from amazon. I've installed them in other cars for less than $150
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Do we know if they are connected in series, or in parallel?

If series, then he will have marginally increased the voltage (and hence current, and hence power) across the remaining good filaments.

Will be hard to assess unless we know if it's series or parallel, and what percentage of the resistive heating element was removed by this process.
 
I have the heated and ventilated seats and both don't seem to be working on the driver side only.
I click the buttons and it lights up normally but just shuts off 30seconds or so later... then eventually i can't turn them on at all.
anyone having this issue?
2015 genesis g80
 
I have the heated and ventilated seats and both don't seem to be working on the driver side only.
I click the buttons and it lights up normally but just shuts off 30seconds or so later... then eventually i can't turn them on at all.
anyone having this issue?
2015 genesis g80
Did you ever figure out this issue? Same thing started happening for me.
 
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