Hood Vibration

[hamed57]

Hi guys,

My car hood vibrates in a sense that I feel the metal sheet is separated from the support base. When I hit a bump or I drive fast in a highway in a windy day the hood vibrate especially in the middle closer to the windshield. Has anybody else experienced the the same problem? Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,

 

[celltech]

A lot of people have complained about it...not sure anyone has really ever found a cure, including myself.

 

[hamed57]

A lot of people have complained about it...not sure anyone has really ever found a cure, including myself.

I am not sure if it is a structural design fault or my hood has a problem. If it is happening for everybody I have to live with it. Otherwise I will remove the insulation and try to figure out what is happening between the sheet metal and the base.

 

[daviderle]

Iindeed, with all the safety toys present in my two G2s, this is about the only aspect that is slightly unsettling when conperaid to the 2009 4.6 and the R-Spec.

Fortunately in my case it only happens at speeds exceeding legal + stupid, with the 5.0 staying composed a little while longer, otherwise my dealer service department would have had an ear full and made them ‘fix it’ under warranty, alas, I am unable reproduce the issue under normal driving conditions.

My suggestion if this condition happens at low speeds, I would show it to the dealer and see if they can find something obvious that could be easily addressed.

 

[carguy75]

Hi guys,

My car hood vibrates in a sense that I feel the metal sheet is separated from the support base. When I hit a bump or I drive fast in a highway in a windy day the hood vibrate especially in the middle closer to the windshield. Has anybody else experienced the the same problem? Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,

Check your under body cover. My cover was not installed properly after the Toyota dealership did an oil change on the car before selling it. The cover was missing clips and was not installed correctly which allowed air to flow past it and press against the hood at highway speeds which caused the hood to flutter.

I reinstalled the under panel covers correctly and it stop the hood flutter/vibration issue that I had. The hood is made of very light aluminum which is easily bendable by highway air speeds if the body cover is not correctly installed to block it.

 

[kocyk123]

Same problem here. I experience it driving over 65mph and all my under body panels are in place. Never bothered asking the dealership about it though.

 

[GEE80]

2018 g80 3.8 ultimate, no hood flutter here, at least up to 100 mph.

 

[hamed57]

Check your under body cover. My cover was not installed properly after the Toyota dealership did an oil change on the car before selling it. The cover was missing clips and was not installed correctly which allowed air to flow past it and press against the hood at highway speeds which caused the hood to flutter.

I reinstalled the under panel covers correctly and it stop the hood flutter/vibration issue that I had. The hood is made of very light aluminum which is easily bendable by highway air speeds if the body cover is not correctly installed to block it.

I did the last oil change myself and I am sure all the panels are installed correctly. I did more inspection today and I believe Hyundai used very thin metal for the hood. The hood is very wide and the the base support is not strong enough to eliminate the vibration. My car is out of warranty otherwise I would ask the dealership for a solution.

 

[daviderle]

If it was me, on the next oil change, I would take it to a ‘good’ dealer for an oil change, show them the issue to see if they could identify it, even if they don’t fix it... just my two cents...

 

[carguy75]

I did the last oil change myself and I am sure all the panels are installed correctly. I did more inspection today and I believe Hyundai used very thin metal for the hood. The hood is very wide and the the base support is not strong enough to eliminate the vibration. My car is out of warranty otherwise I would ask the dealership for a solution.

Well, you must have some other issue with the hood. My hood is solid at speed after I corrected the under body cover panel issue. I have taken my Genesis pass 100mph with no issue with my hood after the panels were correctly installed.

Could you take pic of the front bumper of the car from underneath? I assumed my panels were correct also until I noticed that the front panel was not correctly installed in the front bumper which allowed air to push against the hood.

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[hamed57]

Well, you must have some other issue with the hood. My hood is solid at speed after I corrected the under body cover panel issue. I have taken my Genesis pass 100mph with no issue with my hood after the panels were correctly installed.

Could you take pic of the front bumper of the car from underneath? I assumed my panels were correct also until I noticed that the front panel was not correctly installed in the front bumper which allowed air to push against the hood.

I will double check the panels. Thanks for the reply.

 

[hamed57]

If it was me, on the next oil change, I would take it to a ‘good’ dealer for an oil change, show them the issue to see if they could identify it, even if they don’t fix it... just my two cents...

I change the oil because I like to choose the type of the oil myself and I believe I do a better job than a dealership. It is not about being cheap. My cost of oil change was more that what Hyundai dealership charges for a synthetic oil change.

 

[carguy75]

I change the oil because I like to choose the type of the oil myself and I believe I do a better job than a dealership. It is not about being cheap. My cost of oil change was more that what Hyundai dealership charges for a synthetic oil change.

I agree with you about doing you own oil changes if possible. It gives the opportunity to know your car's health.

Yes, you can depend on other people(mechanics) to help you identify problems under your car, but I have caught many issues early on that was easily corrected before they became worst by inspection the engine during my oil changes. Examples: weeping transmission fluid lines(2011 Mercedes E350), rear axle seal leaks,etc. Weeping lines means that parts like the transmission is losing fluid which could become expensive repairs if not address quickly especially on these late model engine/transmissions.

A good mechanic will tell you about those issues when it is cheaper to fix, however some mechanics may not say anything so that the issue become a more costly repair down the road.

 

[hamed57]

I agree with you about doing you own oil changes if possible. It gives the opportunity to know your car's health.

Yes, you can depend on other people(mechanics) to help you identify problems under your car, but I have caught many issues early on that was easily corrected before they became worst by inspection the engine during my oil changes. Examples: weeping transmission fluid lines(2011 Mercedes E350), rear axle seal leaks,etc. Weeping lines means that parts like the transmission is losing fluid which could become expensive repairs if not address quickly especially on these late model engine/transmissions.

A good mechanic will tell you about those issues when it is cheaper to fix, however some mechanics may not say anything so that the issue become a more costly repair down the road.

Especially in a GDI engine with a very strong potential of carbon deposit problem I would like to use the best available oil in the market. My dealership won't even offer that kind of oil. They just use some kind of bulk oil and they claim it comes from Hyundai.

 

[daviderle]

I change the oil because I like to choose the type of the oil myself and I believe I do a better job than a dealership. It is not about being cheap. My cost of oil change was more that what Hyundai dealership charges for a synthetic oil change.

I fully understand the rationale behind the process, many moons past, I used to do the same thing, alas, In lthe last 10 plus years, I simply can’t afford the time for such luxuries ...
Regardless, my point is by taking your vehicle to the dealer and giving them $50 or so, you should be able get free diagnostics session as part of the deal vs them charging you for <r@p fee.
You can always change the oil after 500 miles or whenever you are comfortable doing it. Again just suggesting to get ‘more for less’ from that good dealer....

 

[hamed57]

Okay Guys, I have some answers to this problem. I have checked all the underbody panels as some friends suggested and they were all in the right places.
The problem is sure enough what I was expecting to be. The hood metal sheet is glued to the support base by some kind of glue.
I removed the isolation panel from under the hood today and confirmed that The glue is separated. It means that there is a possibility for other people who experience the same vibration to have the same problem.
Now the question is what type of glue is appropriate for this part of the car. I would appreciate any thoughts and suggestions .

Side note: I know some friends will come and write take it to the dealership and they know how to fix it.
I love to work on my cars and figure out the problems. If I wanted to fix my car in the dealership then I don't share my experience here with others. I work on my car and share my experience and and I use other people experience working on their own cars.
I saw this very often in this forum people just tell you take it to the dealership and they know how to fix it. In a sense that I don't know if I take it to the dealership they can fix it. lol.

 

[2for1]

3m 5200 marine adhesive. Not the fast setting. It never lets loose, even when you want it to.
Sticks to anything. Stays flexible. Should come in black. Squeeze tube

 

[hamed57]

3m 5200 marine adhesive. Not the fast setting. It never lets loose, even when you want it to.
Sticks to anything. Stays flexible. Should come in black. Squeeze tube

It seems that it's a great product. My local store carries white not black. I should order it from Amazon.
Thank you so much sir,

 

[2for1]

Regular 5200 takes 3 to 5 days to fully cure.
Fast dry takes 1 day but has a chalky finish to it.
Regular has a semi gloss finish.
If it doesn't show it don't matter.
Clean the affected surface with alcohol or brake clean to remove oils prior to application of 5200.

 

[carguy75]

Okay Guys, I have some answers to this problem. I have checked all the underbody panels as some friends suggested and they were all in the right places.
The problem is sure enough what I was expecting to be. The hood metal sheet is glued to the support base by some kind of glue.
I removed the isolation panel from under the hood today and confirmed that The glue is separated. It means that there is a possibility for other people who experience the same vibration to have the same problem.
Now the question is what type of glue is appropriate for this part of the car. I would appreciate any thoughts and suggestions .

Side note: I know some friends will come and write take it to the dealership and they know how to fix it.
I love to work on my cars and figure out the problems. If I wanted to fix my car in the dealership then I don't share my experience here with others. I work on my car and share my experience and and I use other people experience working on their own cars.
I saw this very often in this forum people just tell you take it to the dealership and they know how to fix it. In a sense that I don't know if I take it to the dealership they can fix it. lol.

Can you post a pic of the damaged area?