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Improved positive battery terminal box

Is it the pin locations on what seems to be a top cover that you pried at?
Hopefully these pics can help. I added a note on one. Just from memory though. I did the repair back in July.. i definitely remember having to use a flathead screwdriver and definitely felt like i was going to break it the whole time LOL.

ALSO i found it was unnecessary to remove those high amperage fuses to get the black plastic off.
 

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Hopefully these pics can help. I added a note on one. Just from memory though. I did the repair back in July.. i definitely remember having to use a flathead screwdriver and definitely felt like i was going to break it the whole time LOL.

ALSO i found it was unnecessary to remove those high amperage fuses to get the black plastic off. I have a new terminal and battery shims on
Thanks for the pics. I was able to get the black plastic off, but also felt like I was going to break it the whole time. Had to use multiple different screwdrivers before it started coming out. I have a new terminal and battery shims on order from Amazon that should be here tomorrow. It looks like the metal covering the terminal clamp is a single piece of metal so I need to remove all of the nuts, so I'm leaving that until the parts come, just to be safe. Don't want to lose anything. Appreciate all the help, as this has been driving me nuts ever since I replaced my battery last year. I was worried the battery was moving around which was why it was coming loose, but it looks like this is an issue that's been going on for many of us.
 
Thanks for the pics. I was able to get the black plastic off, but also felt like I was going to break it the whole time. Had to use multiple different screwdrivers before it started coming out. I have a new terminal and battery shims on order from Amazon that should be here tomorrow. It looks like the metal covering the terminal clamp is a single piece of metal so I need to remove all of the nuts, so I'm leaving that until the parts come, just to be safe. Don't want to lose anything. Appreciate all the help, as this has been driving me nuts ever since I replaced my battery last year. I was worried the battery was moving around which was why it was coming loose, but it looks like this is an issue that's been going on for many of us.
Yes, it's a poor design all around. Primarily the poor clamping method and the weak trunk floor resting on it with heavy objects loaded in.

My clamp was too loose to hold on its own, yet too tight to fit any of the generic auto store terminal shims... go figure. Good luck!
 
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Is it the pin locations on what seems to be a top cover that you pried at?
The top cover pries up from the sides. Stick a metal pick between the edge of the box and edge of the top and lift up. The plastic is pretty malleable and won't break. Once the top layer comes off everything is exposed and just held down by 10mm nuts.

very timely thread, just came back to a 95% dead battery after letting it sit for 10 days, very disappointing as the battery was fully charged beforehand. I noticed it is very hard to get a good connection for jumpstarting due to the PIA positive terminal design + not having a good ground point under the hood by the good positive terminal post. I will be checking my positive terminal again to make sure its tight, temped to get this part and weld and extra post to the top of it for future use.

There is an equally good negative terminal on the fender under the shroud, about 20 inches away. It's under the circular cutout.
 
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I just bought a new battery to replace the 8.5 year old one in my 2015. I put the old battery on a trickle charger and brought it in to be tested. It tested good on the first test. The 2nd test, it tested good, but needed a charge. I decided that if it couldn't test good twice, I was going to repace it given that it was 8.5 years old.

I do try to put the car on a trickle charger once per month to improve battery health.

I did not think removing the positive terminal was that hard.

The new battery is on a trickle charger over night before I install it.
 
By improved, I mean liberally butchered with a rotozip. But hey, my car no longer dies without rhyme or reason... and remote start works again.

Exhibit A: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai and sold for $1400

View attachment 34097

Exhibit B: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai for $14. Of superior design.
View attachment 34098

Exhibit C: butchery of terminal box to permit installation of differently sized terminal

View attachment 34095

Exhibit D: how the new terminal mounts to the load bar assembly with copper crush washers to fit lower on terminal for improved clamping force
View attachment 34100

Exhibit E: installed in terminal box
View attachment 34099
View attachment 34096
View attachment 34101

Potential issue: main battery cable needs to be 0.75” longer to reach new lug positioning since entire terminal box is moved away. Careful massaging can coax out more wire.
Great post. This issue has been driving me bonkers over the last year. What part or do you have a link for "Exhibit B: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai for $14. Of superior design"? I could only find terminals that looked like Exhibit A.
 
Great post. This issue has been driving me bonkers over the last year. What part or do you have a link for "Exhibit B: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai for $14. Of superior design"? I could only find terminals that looked like Exhibit A.
 
Why not just use a sleeve that goes over the positive terminal? My car was doing this like everyday. Got a pair of sleeves at AutoZone for 5 bucks. I had to sand the terminal down a tiny bit and open the sleeve a bit, but that sucker is on there tight now. No problems since!
 
Hey fellas, great write up. Im having issues with my 2018 Genesis 5.0 HTRAC cutting short when I turn off the car. It stops the seat, steering wheel and welcome sound in its tracks& my analog clock reverts to the 12 oclock position. Normally it plays the welcome sound all the way thru, my seat and steering wheel move completely out of the way. However it does start up again right after as if nothing ever went wrong and it does not do this everytime. Ofcourse some settings such as fog lights and drive mode are reset but nothing major. I was ready to mickey mouse my s*** & remove terminals & wrap a peice of bare wire around the posts for extra tightness!! Will probably go for Suburbazine's permanent fix after reading this tho💯
I have a question, did any you experience the P262B check engine light code while dealing with this issue?
 
Why not just buy a shim that goes over the terminal? Same concept, more grip, much less tampering and only a 10 minute project. It solved my issues. People are overthinking and performing surgery on their vehicles haha. autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery-terminal/p/lynx-battery-shims/257147_0_0
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Hey fellas, great write up. Im having issues with my 2018 Genesis 5.0 HTRAC cutting short when I turn off the car....
I am curious about the possible causes of this problem (positive post/clamp getting wallowed out). Do you have the correct size battery? Is it securely mounted (can't move it at all in any direction)?
 
I am curious about the possible causes of this problem (positive post/clamp getting wallowed out). Do you have the correct size battery? Is it securely mounted (can't move it at all in any direction)?
When I first expirienced the issue I knew right away it had something to do with my battery. Everything felt real tight& the battery did not budge. Even so, I tightened up every nut on& near the battery at the risk of overtorquing& breaking something. It fixed my issue for a little over a month. In fact my car ran much better. Now the problem has returned& I dont want to tighten the nuts anymore because I feel that this time around, they will snap. I do put alot of weight in the trunk as sometimes I go to Costco& when the cat litter is on sale, I BUY! But i dont think thats the issue, I would have to blame the battery moving around(if it really is moving around) on me taking hard turns& weaving thru traffic. I would hate to find out that the battery setup cannot handle my style of driving 😩
 
By improved, I mean liberally butchered with a rotozip. But hey, my car no longer dies without rhyme or reason... and remote start works again.

Exhibit A: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai and sold for $1400

View attachment 34097

Exhibit B: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai for $14. Of superior design.
View attachment 34098

Exhibit C: butchery of terminal box to permit installation of differently sized terminal

View attachment 34095

Exhibit D: how the new terminal mounts to the load bar assembly with copper crush washers to fit lower on terminal for improved clamping force
View attachment 34100

Exhibit E: installed in terminal box
View attachment 34099
View attachment 34096
View attachment 34101

Potential issue: main battery cable needs to be 0.75” longer to reach new lug positioning since entire terminal box is moved away. Careful massaging can coax out more wire.
Man! I'm so glad to see your post! So you've experienced the life threatening experience of trying to turn your car on, and it's completely dead! Or buying a new battery; only to find that one dead as well. I'm definitely doing this one. Much thanks!
 
I am curious about the possible causes of this problem (positive post/clamp getting wallowed out). Do you have the correct size battery? Is it securely mounted (can't move it at all in any direction)?
My experience is, apparently, once the positive post is removed, it will never be secure again. Even service from the dealership; I had the same bad experience of a completelydead car. I believe they said the starter was bad last time. I ended up tapping down a hallow post over a new positive battery post and tightening down over that. It's worked so far, however, I think this option is more permanent.
 
I bought the sleeves from autozone for less than $5 after tax. They didnt quite fit so what I ended up doing was taking a flathead& hammer to break one of them into 1/2" inch peices. I put one on the positive and one on the negative & tighten down as normal. Much tighter fit, no play from the terminals& I have been hitting them corners at 40mph with no issues!
 
I do try to put the car on a trickle charger once per month to improve battery health.

Unless you are letting the car sit for extended periods (several days or more) - this is not helping anything. Simply starting and driving the car for more than 20 minutes or so accomplishes the same thing.
 
By improved, I mean liberally butchered with a rotozip. But hey, my car no longer dies without rhyme or reason... and remote start works again.

Exhibit A: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai and sold for $1400

View attachment 34097

Exhibit B: pot metal terminal made by Hyundai for $14. Of superior design.
View attachment 34098

Exhibit C: butchery of terminal box to permit installation of differently sized terminal

View attachment 34095

Exhibit D: how the new terminal mounts to the load bar assembly with copper crush washers to fit lower on terminal for improved clamping force
View attachment 34100

Exhibit E: installed in terminal box
View attachment 34099
View attachment 34096
View attachment 34101

Potential issue: main battery cable needs to be 0.75” longer to reach new lug positioning since entire terminal box is moved away. Careful massaging can coax out more wire.
I thought this was probably my problem, but now I think not. My 2015 power is shutting down completely --everything! I checked everything on the battery with no success---BUT when I got out of the car I slammed the door and presto... everything came back on. Now, for second time I lost complete power, shut the door hard and it came back on...??? Any thoughts or suggestions.
 
I thought this was probably my problem, but now I think not. My 2015 power is shutting down completely --everything! I checked everything on the battery with no success---BUT when I got out of the car I slammed the door and presto... everything came back on. Now, for second time I lost complete power, shut the door hard and it came back on...??? Any thoughts or suggestions.
Have you checked that positive post in the trunk. What you're experience is a clear sign that it's not on securely. The fixes is either this mod or others mentioned in this thread.
 
Hopefully these pics can help. I added a note on one. Just from memory though. I did the repair back in July.. i definitely remember having to use a flathead screwdriver and definitely felt like i was going to break it the whole time LOL.

ALSO i found it was unnecessary to remove those high amperage fuses to get the black plastic off.
I have this exact problem, have a 2018 g80 sport, loose positive terminal connection, tried tightning the bolt, but broke it off, now need access to that stud to replace the terminal. when prying the black box apart, any tips to not break/shatter that black box? any good prying starting points? once i can get that open i can buy that amazon terminal part or hyundai part 91980-3X010 for $24 and be done with this. i am also told i can try using half of a terminal sleeve, rather than a full.
 
Yes, it's a poor design all around. Primarily the poor clamping method and the weak trunk floor resting on it with heavy objects loaded in.

My clamp was too loose to hold on its own, yet too tight to fit any of the generic auto store terminal shims... go figure. Good luck!
the auto parts store guy told me to break the shim apart and try using half the shim, Im going to try that once i open that black box and replace the terminal connector with 91980-3X010.
 
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