Jack Lift Positions

[mrgenesis2009]

Hello all!

I have a 3.8L Genesis Sedan and I am at a little over 1000 miles. I am ready to change my oil to Mobil 1 5w-20. I already have my Hyundai oil filter as well. I've always changed my own oil on my previous cars. I have a 3 ton jack I use to lift the entire front end of my other cars (and wife's). Has anyone else used that type of jack on their 3.8L? I'd like to know if there is a spot for that to lift the entire front end. I have not had the oppurtunity to see if there is a spot for that kind of lift on the front end. The manual only covers lifting the car with the provided jack and only for changing tires. I have searched the Internet and have not found any comments on lifting the Genesis from the front.

Any comments?

Thanks,
Ben

 

[DesertGen]

I just chose to use the provided scissor jack instead of my floor jack. Just jacked up one side. Doesn't take too much effort. I have changed the oil a couple of times now. (I have a 4.6)

 

[LLT]

Nearly everything on the undercarriage is protected with plastic... short of the stabilizer bar (not a good idea), there's no real solid lift point. Ramps are your best bet.... or, you can get something like this which is pretty slick.

The days of lifting vehicles with a single lift point are pretty much over, IMO... there's too much aluminum and plastic. Even the actual lift points bend!

 

[ctrcbob]

Nearly everything on the undercarriage is protected with plastic... short of the stabilizer bar (not a good idea), there's no real solid lift point. Ramps are your best bet.... or, you can get something like this which is pretty slick.

The days of lifting vehicles with a single lift point are pretty much over, IMO... there's too much aluminum and plastic. Even the actual lift points bend!

Ditto! USE RAMPS. Never go under the car, or any car, when it is on jacks.
NEVER!

 

[mrgenesis2009]

I agree, never get underneath a car without another safety device such as jack stands to prevent the car from coming down on you.

That Cross Beam Floor Jack Adapter looks pretty neat though. That jack looks like mine too.

I might get it, thanks for the tip.

Ben

 

[DesertGen]

Nearly everything on the undercarriage is protected with plastic... short of the stabilizer bar (not a good idea), there's no real solid lift point. Ramps are your best bet.... or, you can get something like this which is pretty slick.

Pretty cool. I might have to weld me up one of them to fit my floor jack!

 

[Mark_888]

You might try a fluid evacuator like the MityVac MV7300:
http://www.mityvac.com/info_sheets/07300.pdf

Costs about $100 on-line. It runs off an air compressor (not included), but even a low power compressor that inflates tire works fine. I have found it works well with the Genesis V6, removing at least as much oil as removing the drain plug. There are other evacuators that operate by hand pumps, but I would not recommend them.

With a MityVac MV7300 and top mounted oil filter, you don't have jack up your V6 at all for an oil change.

 

[LLT]

The cross-beam adapter is pretty neat. I use it to raise the entire left side, then another for the right side. I'm able to use it front and back on my truck and SUV, but there's nowhere near enough room to get to the center on any of my cars. MAYBE with a low-profile jack.

 

[TJPark01]

Hello all!

I have a 3.8L Genesis Sedan and I am at a little over 1000 miles. I am ready to change my oil to Mobil 1 5w-20. I already have my Hyundai oil filter as well. I've always changed my own oil on my previous cars. I have a 3 ton jack I use to lift the entire front end of my other cars (and wife's). Has anyone else used that type of jack on their 3.8L? I'd like to know if there is a spot for that to lift the entire front end. I have not had the oppurtunity to see if there is a spot for that kind of lift on the front end. The manual only covers lifting the car with the provided jack and only for changing tires. I have searched the Internet and have not found any comments on lifting the Genesis from the front.

Any comments?

Thanks,
Ben

There are a few problems with what you are trying to do. First the car is so low to the ground that unless you have a low profile jack, it's pretty much impossible to hit a correct spot to lift the car. Secondly, the frame that you are trying to reach to properly jack the front end is covered in plastic, in fact the whole undercarrige is pretty much this way, I guesss for aerodynamics and corrosion protection. There is a spot on the frame you can get to with the floor jack that but it's a bit tricky and you can't lift the whole car.
What I did is scissor jack both sides then stick jack stands underneath.

Another few things to look out for is that the oil plug is on so tight that unless you have a breaker bar, or some neumatic tools, you can't get it off with a wrench or ratchet. Also you need the proper size nut to remove the oil filter housing. Good news is that for you it's easy to get to as it's on top of the engine. Good luck. Doing it yourself is so much more rewarding.

 

[mrgenesis2009]

Well, I went to Walmart and bought the ramps. I tried to use them in my garage and it just slipped every time I tried to drive the car onto them. I finally gave up and put the ramps out in front of my house on the road and drove the car onto the ramps, no problem.

On another note and this should probably be moved to another topic but I'm desperate.

The drain plug came off relatively easy. I did have to go to an auto parts store and rent (for free) a socket set for oil changes (didn't know they had those). I used the 27mm socket and it came off easy. I replaced the filter with a genuine Hyundai filter 26320-3C250 (with the o-rings and new compression washer).

I drained the oil and it looked pretty dirty after only 1063 miles.

I filled the oil with Mobil 1 5W-20. I used a full jug (5 US quarts) and then added a little more from a new jug. I'd say about 1/4 quart. The hard part for me (and I have changed oil my on all my cars since I was a teenager - I'm 38). For the life of me, I can't get a solid reading my my dip stick. I have repeatedly cleaned and rechecked the stick only to give me a reading of about 1/2 inch over F to what looks like about just less than half way between the F and L. I have never had this much trouble reading a dip stick. It's like the sides of the tube are covered in oil and it gets on the stick. The only way I can even say it was about half way was to see a tiny area that appears to be "dry", but very small. I would imagine that if the stick is submerged there couldn't be any dry area what-so-ever(unless the oil is repelled a little on the stick itself). So I ran the engine for about 5 minutes and checked a bunch of time again.

Anyone have trouble reading the oil on the 3.8L Engine?

Also just as a side note, below is a copy/paste from the hmaservice website for the 3.8L engine.

Engine Oil quantity
Total : 6.0 L (6.34 US qt, 5.27 lmp qt)
Oil pan : 5.5 L (5.81 US qt, 4.83 lmp qt)
Drain and refill including oil filter :
5.2 L (4.49 US qt, 4.57 lmp qt)

I suspect the 4.49 US qt is a typo as it should read 5.59 US qt.

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[Mark_888]

Well, I went to Walmart and bought the ramps. I tried to use them in my garage and it just slipped every time I tried to drive the car onto them. I finally gave up and put the ramps out in front of my house on the road and drove the car onto the ramps, no problem.

On another note and this should probably be moved to another topic but I'm desperate.

The drain plug came off relatively easy. I did have to go to an auto parts store and rent (for free) a socket set for oil changes (didn't know they had those). I used the 27mm socket and it came off easy. I replaced the filter with a genuine Hyundai filter 26320-3C250 (with the o-rings and new compression washer).

I drained the oil and it looked pretty dirty after only 1063 miles.

I filled the oil with Mobil 1 5W-20. I used a full jug (5 US quarts) and then added a little more from a new jug. I'd say about 1/4 quart. The hard part for me (and I have changed oil my on all my cars since I was a teenager - I'm 38). For the life of me, I can't get a solid reading my my dip stick. I have repeatedly cleaned and rechecked the stick only to give me a reading of about 1/2 inch over F to what looks like about just less than half way between the F and L. I have never had this much trouble reading a dip stick. It's like the sides of the tube are covered in oil and it gets on the stick. The only way I can even say it was about half way was to see a tiny area that appears to be "dry", but very small. I would imagine that if the stick is submerged there couldn't be any dry area what-so-ever(unless the oil is repelled a little on the stick itself). So I ran the engine for about 5 minutes and checked a bunch of time again.

Anyone have trouble reading the oil on the 3.8L Engine?

Also just as a side note, below is a copy/paste from the hmaservice website for the 3.8L engine.

Engine Oil quantity
Total : 6.0 L (6.34 US qt, 5.27 lmp qt)
Oil pan : 5.5 L (5.81 US qt, 4.83 lmp qt)
Drain and refill including oil filter :
5.2 L (4.49 US qt, 4.57 lmp qt)

I suspect the 4.49 US qt is a typo as it should read 5.59 US qt.

Yes, I have the exact same problem reading my V6 dipstick. One of the problems may be that the oil drains back into the crankcase since it is on-top of the engine. Mine reads high if I let it sit for awhile. I just gave up trying to read it and follow the service manual of 5.5 US quarts for drain and refill (yes, the 4.49 US qt is a typo - if you convert 5.2L to quarts it is 5.49 qt).

BTW, I am going to switch to M1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy soon, as I think the extra weight will help on engine startup with the oil draining out of the filter back into the crankcase. Should get pretty close the same MPG as 5W-20 with better engine protection.

 

[TJPark01]

I have never had this much trouble reading a dip stick. It's like the sides of the tube are covered in oil and it gets on the stick.

Others have mentioned this before on the 3.8. Try letting the car sit overnight, then check the dipstick. I have a suspicion that you may have overfilled it a bit.

 

[scottdk]

I think my Craftsman jack works well I'm also planning on putting the car on jack stands over the winter to prevent flat spots on the tires. I've stored cars before and never had flat spots, but I've had a few friends tell me otherwise. Figure why not?

 

[STREETS]

Will jacking up the car (making it unlevel) deter from draining all the used oil out? I guess if the drain plug is on the low side of the tilt, all is well.

I refilled with 0W-30 vs. 5W-20 as well. A little thicker oil adds more protection sacraficing .02% fuel economy with a thinner, less drag oil vescosity.

Strange youroil was "dirty" after under 2000 miles- at 4500 mine was clear & amber.

 

[mrgenesis2009]

I am a bit concerned about the level of dirtyness in the oil I drained. I remember when I changed my oil on my 2003 eclipse for the first time and it was pretty clean too. I'll have to see when I change the oil again. Anyone else see very dirty oil come out of their first change?

Ben

 

[ctrcbob]

You might try a fluid evacuator like the MityVac MV7300:
http://www.mityvac.com/info_sheets/07300.pdf

Costs about $100 on-line. It runs off an air compressor (not included), but even a low power compressor that inflates tire works fine. I have found it works well with the Genesis V6, removing at least as much oil as removing the drain plug. There are other evacuators that operate by hand pumps, but I would not recommend them.

With a MityVac MV7300 and top mounted oil filter, you don't have jack up your V6 at all for an oil change.

A couple years ago, I bought a fluid exctactor at NAPA for less than $10.00. It attaches to my power drill, the same as when attaching a drill bit. Connected two hoses, one to dip into the oil and one for the oil to drain into a bottle. I use it for sucking up transmission fluid on my Continental, when I do a "pump & dump" on it. I've also pumped liquids around the house. I've never used it to pump engine oil, but I know it would work.

Just pull the trigger on the drill, and let it pump.

 

[TJPark01]

I am a bit concerned about the level of dirtyness in the oil I drained. I remember when I changed my oil on my 2003 eclipse for the first time and it was pretty clean too. I'll have to see when I change the oil again. Anyone else see very dirty oil come out of their first change?

Ben

Yes. I changed it at 1200 miles and it seemed dirtier than I expected. Although you can't really tell how dirty an oil really is unless you do a chemical analysis, which for what it's worth is not that expensive 25 bucks, send me a private message and I'll tell you where you can get it done if you care.

 

[Sayantsi]

Surely we can just list the used oil analysis site? Go to Blackstone Labs - it will send you the test kit free, you just pay for the analysis - $23.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/