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Jack points on the 2015 Sedan

For your own safety, go to a shop, Discount Tires, Just Tires, Firestone, etc. and let them do it...I don't think they're going to charge you more than $30

And, for your own additional safety, check the lug nuts afterwards to see if they are torqued up. A Ford dealer once did an unauthorized "safety check" on one of my cars, and when I got home 7 or 8 of the lug nuts were only finger tight - if that.
 
And, for your own additional safety, check the lug nuts afterwards to see if they are torqued up. A Ford dealer once did an unauthorized "safety check" on one of my cars, and when I got home 7 or 8 of the lug nuts were only finger tight - if that.

It happened to me too, when I went to BTR to change my lowered front springs, they "forgot" to torqued up all 10 lug nuts! ...after that, I trust no one.
 
Oddly enough my wife had lug nuts finger tight as well as my daughter which both had tires installed at professional shops and this is why I always do it my self or double check their work. In spring and fall where we need to change from summer to winter tires by law up here, I ALWAYS see at least one car on the freeway that has lost a wheel. This is not rocket science, just do not forget to tighten the freakin nuts! I love the term "leave it to a professional" as most of the time it means little or nothing and you can be better served by doing it yourself.
 
I just had mine on jack stands to install suspension collars today. The back is easy to get up, just come in from the rear of the car and use the subframe where it meets the lower control arm. Pick it up and put the jack stand on the "correct" point.

The front is way harder. I started with the correct point, pulled the transmission cover and put the 1st stand on the front subframe. Then remove jack and jack up the other side of the subframe till you can put the stand under the frame mount point. At that point I just left it where it was...

If you had a low enough jack you could jack it up at the knuckle next to the tire, but then it has to load the suspension first before the body moved. You could also drive it up a couple blocks of wood to get a little height to get the jack under it, but either way it's a total pain.

Bringing this back from the dead.

I'm tackling the G2 caliper paint this weekend and need to get the car on 4 Jack stands. I've painted my calipers many times in the past and had just about every car I've ever owned on 4 stands at some point....with zero issues, ever. This car is different obviously. The quoted post from 2016 makes me nervous. Seems as if he was saying to Jack up the rear, install the rear stands and then do 1 side at a time for the front....that sounds no bueno to me!!! Has anyone found any information on the safe, proper location to jack up the front of our cars so we can have BOTH wheels in the air simultaneously? The rear as well? Not a fan of supporting the rear by using the bell housing as a Jack point, even momentarily. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
One side at a time is fine. If the chassis didn't have sufficient rigidity to support one side jacking it wouldn't be roadworthy in the first place.
 
One side at a time is fine. If the chassis didn't have sufficient rigidity to support one side jacking it wouldn't be roadworthy in the first place.

Makes me nervous.... especially with the pano roof. Always had a point in the center, front and rear, that I could use on every previous car. Guess I'll have to nut up and try it!
 
I am having no luck finding this anywhere in the service manual or Google, etc...

I'm tired of having to pay the dealer $60 twice a year to swap on summer/winter tires so I'm getting the tools to do it myself. The biggest issue I see is that there is no centre front/rear jack points listed *anywhere* that I can see besides the recommendation to jack the rear on the rear differential which I'm not crazy about given how many warnings there are about cars slipping off when lifting it there.

I know where the jack points are on the frame near each wheel but if I'm lifting from there I can't get a jack stand onto the same point. I'm doing this on a slightly sloped driveway so there is no way I am trusting just a trolley jack or scissor jack on it's own.

Are there any other places I can put a jack stand safely on this car?
I use a floor jack with crossbar adapter to lift one side at a time. I let the car rest on jack stands placed in the factory jack locations.
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For what's it worth that 2016 post was mine and it was the rear subframe, not a bell housing. That member is plenty strong to pick up the rear. And once you remove the belly pans the front subframe is there for the front as well. The car is just so low that getting under there is a pain.
 
For what's it worth that 2016 post was mine and it was the rear subframe, not a bell housing. That member is plenty strong to pick up the rear. And once you remove the belly pans the front subframe is there for the front as well. The car is just so low that getting under there is a pain.

Thanks. I called the dealership yesterday and talked to the tech that works on my car (he's the only one to work on my 2010 and he's the only one I'm letting work on my 2016 at that dealership). He told me to look for a weld point on the frame near the Jack point and told me that spot is strong enough to fit the bill. We will see, I plan to tackle this tonight.
 
They aren’t cheap, but it was because of this exact problem that I purchased Rennstands. I ran into it on another of my cars. I have no relationship with them, just a customer.
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I'm about to tackle new brake pads and rotors. Anyone figure out a good solution for the front end? Can I just place the jack near the suggested points, then place a jack stand under it, one side at a time?
 
They aren’t cheap, but it was because of this exact problem that I purchased Rennstands. I ran into it on another of my cars. I have no relationship with them, just a customer.
Which adapter did you get to fit the pitch welds?
 
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