JB4 Map 6 w/CPI

[onecrappie]

I hesitate to post this as I'm new and somewhat inexperienced. I just installed CPI a few weeks ago and have been trying to understand how to tune Map 6 on the JB4. Everyone keeps saying post a log (which is fine). Then I ask, "ok, thank you but WHY?" AWDGT2 was a huge help on jb4tech and the Stinger forum so shoutout to him.

The problem becomes, I have found out, every car is different and have different settings. There isn't just hard fast "do xyz". Ya gotta play with it.

I welcome any constructive criticism and will update this post if I get something wrong or not quite right. Feel free to pitch in. So after many hours of videos, questions, reading, and compiling here we go. Just trying to help someone else where I was lost and frustrated for a couple weeks.

First things first. Pretty much everything is in the JB4 tech logging post, but that just explains what each metric is.

Air fuel ratio (AFR) is the main thing you're going to worry about. Everything you do affects this. From the fuel you use, to the boost, to the fuel bias. Everything points back to the AFR. Perfect burn is 14.7 in any engine. That's 14.7 units of air to 1 unit of fuel.

The target AFR on JB4 is 11.9. When you increase boost this number changes, you get more air and the AFR becomes lean (now you either need more fuel or less air). Below 11.5 it is rich (now you need more air or less fuel).

AFR = 11.9 range: rich < 11.5-13.3 > lean

This is where your trims come into play. You'll hear "your trims are maxed out" or "your trims are bottoming out." Trims are the car/jb4 either requesting more fuel or less fuel. A reading of 25 means that it isn't needing any more or less: it is the 0 of this scale. So if you're wide open throttle (WOT) and your trims say 50 on your log it is requesting 34% more fuel. Vice versa if it says 5 then it is requesting ~ 34% LESS fuel. If trims are 5s then you need less fuel, turn fuel bias down.

TRIMS = 25 normal
Range: depends. On WOT you should see trims go high (around 45) then work their way down to the teens.
Boost. This is what everyone is worried about right? From my understanding, over 23 lbs of boost there is too much heat created and you just don't get any more benefit. The BOOST in the jb4 is before the intake and BOOST2 is after the intake (and is a better indicator of how much boost the engine is under <‐ from jb4tech). TARGET is how much boost over stock jb4 is requesting.

Stock boost levels are 12-14 lbs. Map 2 requests 6 over (so 18-20) then tapers down through the RPM range.

WAIT! DON'T GO SAYING I WANT 23 LBS OF BOOST ON EVERY LINE!

There is a trick to this.

"Map6: Custom tuning map allowing both additive (below 10psi) and absolute (above 10psi) targeting. Setting RPM1500 boost below 5.7psi will make entire map6 additive, setting above 6psi will make entire map6 absolute target."

So if you were to go 5.7 on 1500 RPM, then 10 on 2000 then 15 on 2500.... you're requesting around 30 lbs at 2500 RPM.

The graph is OK for a quick run, but really it's a snap shot of what is going on. A 10,000 ft view of you will. We want like a 500 ft view instead. Open your log in excel and you can see a better sampling of what is happening and when.



This is where you see what is happening. At around 4600 rpm you can see the boost start to taper. Between 4600 and 5200 we've lost a full pound of boost from the ECU. If you look at target you can see where I've tried to adjust for this. The trick is finding where you need to shift to keep the car in that boost range and adjusting boost to try and flatten that curve.

At some point though, you're at the mercy of the ecu. Thats where the EWG cables come into play. It will allow you to adjust the Wastegate and duty bias in order to maintain boost. (Mine will arrive tomorrow and I'll start playing).

Start low and work in increments. Maybe 0.2 at a time. Make a run. Adjust accordingly.

Now, where it gets murky for me is the ign2-6 or what they are calling knock. This is where your fuel changes things and displays the limits of the jb4. 3.5 degree advance is all the stock ECU can handle. It needs to be able to advance further to handle fuels higher than e40. You start receiving lean codes and will have a rough start and idle. You'll need a back end flash or an ecu tune to continue from there.

 

[Bigsaucy71]

I hesitate to post this as I'm new and somewhat inexperienced. I just installed CPI a few weeks ago and have been trying to understand how to tune Map 6 on the JB4. Everyone keeps saying post a log (which is fine). Then I ask, "ok, thank you but WHY?" AWDGT2 was a huge help on jb4tech and the Stinger forum so shoutout to him.

The problem becomes, I have found out, every car is different and have different settings. There isn't just hard fast "do xyz". Ya gotta play with it.

I welcome any constructive criticism and will update this post if I get something wrong or not quite right. Feel free to pitch in. So after many hours of videos, questions, reading, and compiling here we go. Just trying to help someone else where I was lost and frustrated for a couple weeks.

First things first. Pretty much everything is in the JB4 tech logging post, but that just explains what each metric is.

Air fuel ratio (AFR) is the main thing you're going to worry about. Everything you do affects this. From the fuel you use, to the boost, to the fuel bias. Everything points back to the AFR. Perfect burn is 14.7 in any engine. That's 14.7 units of air to 1 unit of fuel.

The target AFR on JB4 is 11.9. When you increase boost this number changes, you get more air and the AFR becomes lean (now you either need more fuel or less air). Below 11.5 it is rich (now you need more air or less fuel).

AFR = 11.9 range: rich < 11.5-13.3 > lean

This is where your trims come into play. You'll hear "your trims are maxed out" or "your trims are bottoming out." Trims are the car/jb4 either requesting more fuel or less fuel. A reading of 25 means that it isn't needing any more or less: it is the 0 of this scale. So if you're wide open throttle (WOT) and your trims say 50 on your log it is requesting 34% more fuel. Vice versa if it says 5 then it is requesting ~ 34% LESS fuel. If trims are 5s then you need less fuel, turn fuel bias down.

TRIMS = 25 normal
Range: depends. On WOT you should see trims go high (around 45) then work their way down to the teens.
Boost. This is what everyone is worried about right? From my understanding, over 23 lbs of boost there is too much heat created and you just don't get any more benefit. The BOOST in the jb4 is before the intake and BOOST2 is after the intake (and is a better indicator of how much boost the engine is under <‐ from jb4tech). TARGET is how much boost over stock jb4 is requesting.

Stock boost levels are 12-14 lbs. Map 2 requests 6 over (so 18-20) then tapers down through the RPM range.

WAIT! DON'T GO SAYING I WANT 23 LBS OF BOOST ON EVERY LINE!

There is a trick to this.

"Map6: Custom tuning map allowing both additive (below 10psi) and absolute (above 10psi) targeting. Setting RPM1500 boost below 5.7psi will make entire map6 additive, setting above 6psi will make entire map6 absolute target."

So if you were to go 5.7 on 1500 RPM, then 10 on 2000 then 15 on 2500.... you're requesting around 30 lbs at 2500 RPM.

The graph is OK for a quick run, but really it's a snap shot of what is going on. A 10,000 ft view of you will. We want like a 500 ft view instead. Open your log in excel and you can see a better sampling of what is happening and when.

View attachment 56656

This is where you see what is happening. At around 4600 rpm you can see the boost start to taper. Between 4600 and 5200 we've lost a full pound of boost from the ECU. If you look at target you can see where I've tried to adjust for this. The trick is finding where you need to shift to keep the car in that boost range and adjusting boost to try and flatten that curve.

At some point though, you're at the mercy of the ecu. Thats where the EWG cables come into play. It will allow you to adjust the Wastegate and duty bias in order to maintain boost. (Mine will arrive tomorrow and I'll start playing).

Start low and work in increments. Maybe 0.2 at a time. Make a run. Adjust accordingly.

Now, where it gets murky for me is the ign2-6 or what they are calling knock. This is where your fuel changes things and displays the limits of the jb4. 3.5 degree advance is all the stock ECU can handle. It needs to be able to advance further to handle fuels higher than e40. You start receiving lean codes and will have a rough start and idle. You'll need a back end flash or an ecu tune to continue from there.

I feel your pain, as a lap3 ecu user with cpi I was running e60 with no issues...I sent my ecu out for a revision and I'm trying to fool around with map6 on the jb4 with Cpi and get something reliable until it the ecu returns, hopefully this week... No matter what settings I get p0171,p0174 even under mild boost conditions, that they say are normal with high levels of E....One thing I will say is you will have a complete understanding on logs and adjustments...I'm not sure if you are on Facebook or not but there is a knowledgeable bunch using CPI with success in the 3.3t/2.0t performance discussion

 

[onecrappie]

I feel your pain, as a lap3 ecu user with cpi I was running e60 with no issues...I sent my ecu out for a revision and I'm trying to fool around with map6 on the jb4 with Cpi and get something reliable until it the ecu returns, hopefully this week... No matter what settings I get p0171,p0174 even under mild boost conditions, that they say are normal with high levels of E....One thing I will say is you will have a complete understanding on logs and adjustments...I'm not sure if you are on Facebook or not but there is a knowledgeable bunch using CPI with success in the 3.3t/2.0t performance discussion

I'm not on fb. I don't really like any of the platforms, it's political/religious or fake pictures of people trying to keep up with the Jones. My mental health is better for it! Lol.

I would lower your e content down to 40. Even then you're limited and have rough starts. I'm hoping to go lap3 next year. Trying to justify another $3k though... from what cashby says it's worth it. You feel the same?

 

[Bigsaucy71]

I'm not on fb. I don't really like any of the platforms, it's political/religious or fake pictures of people trying to keep up with the Jones. My mental health is better for it! Lol.

I would lower your e content down to 40. Even then you're limited and have rough starts. I'm hoping to go lap3 next year. Trying to justify another $3k though... from what cashby says it's worth it. You feel the same?

I feel you on the social media my account is hidden and just for car related stuff...Absolutely feel the same as him, Charlie helped me get my CPI settings right after the install, currently waiting on the upgrade from lap 1.5 to 2.5...I'm not going to get into results but it's worth it!!

 

[Malckom]

I hesitate to post this as I'm new and somewhat inexperienced. I just installed CPI a few weeks ago and have been trying to understand how to tune Map 6 on the JB4. Everyone keeps saying post a log (which is fine). Then I ask, "ok, thank you but WHY?" AWDGT2 was a huge help on jb4tech and the Stinger forum so shoutout to him.

The problem becomes, I have found out, every car is different and have different settings. There isn't just hard fast "do xyz". Ya gotta play with it.

I welcome any constructive criticism and will update this post if I get something wrong or not quite right. Feel free to pitch in. So after many hours of videos, questions, reading, and compiling here we go. Just trying to help someone else where I was lost and frustrated for a couple weeks.

First things first. Pretty much everything is in the JB4 tech logging post, but that just explains what each metric is.

Air fuel ratio (AFR) is the main thing you're going to worry about. Everything you do affects this. From the fuel you use, to the boost, to the fuel bias. Everything points back to the AFR. Perfect burn is 14.7 in any engine. That's 14.7 units of air to 1 unit of fuel.

The target AFR on JB4 is 11.9. When you increase boost this number changes, you get more air and the AFR becomes lean (now you either need more fuel or less air). Below 11.5 it is rich (now you need more air or less fuel).

AFR = 11.9 range: rich < 11.5-13.3 > lean

This is where your trims come into play. You'll hear "your trims are maxed out" or "your trims are bottoming out." Trims are the car/jb4 either requesting more fuel or less fuel. A reading of 25 means that it isn't needing any more or less: it is the 0 of this scale. So if you're wide open throttle (WOT) and your trims say 50 on your log it is requesting 34% more fuel. Vice versa if it says 5 then it is requesting ~ 34% LESS fuel. If trims are 5s then you need less fuel, turn fuel bias down.

TRIMS = 25 normal
Range: depends. On WOT you should see trims go high (around 45) then work their way down to the teens.
Boost. This is what everyone is worried about right? From my understanding, over 23 lbs of boost there is too much heat created and you just don't get any more benefit. The BOOST in the jb4 is before the intake and BOOST2 is after the intake (and is a better indicator of how much boost the engine is under <‐ from jb4tech). TARGET is how much boost over stock jb4 is requesting.

Stock boost levels are 12-14 lbs. Map 2 requests 6 over (so 18-20) then tapers down through the RPM range.

WAIT! DON'T GO SAYING I WANT 23 LBS OF BOOST ON EVERY LINE!

There is a trick to this.

"Map6: Custom tuning map allowing both additive (below 10psi) and absolute (above 10psi) targeting. Setting RPM1500 boost below 5.7psi will make entire map6 additive, setting above 6psi will make entire map6 absolute target."

So if you were to go 5.7 on 1500 RPM, then 10 on 2000 then 15 on 2500.... you're requesting around 30 lbs at 2500 RPM.

The graph is OK for a quick run, but really it's a snap shot of what is going on. A 10,000 ft view of you will. We want like a 500 ft view instead. Open your log in excel and you can see a better sampling of what is happening and when.

View attachment 56656

This is where you see what is happening. At around 4600 rpm you can see the boost start to taper. Between 4600 and 5200 we've lost a full pound of boost from the ECU. If you look at target you can see where I've tried to adjust for this. The trick is finding where you need to shift to keep the car in that boost range and adjusting boost to try and flatten that curve.

At some point though, you're at the mercy of the ecu. Thats where the EWG cables come into play. It will allow you to adjust the Wastegate and duty bias in order to maintain boost. (Mine will arrive tomorrow and I'll start playing).

Start low and work in increments. Maybe 0.2 at a time. Make a run. Adjust accordingly.

Now, where it gets murky for me is the ign2-6 or what they are calling knock. This is where your fuel changes things and displays the limits of the jb4. 3.5 degree advance is all the stock ECU can handle. It needs to be able to advance further to handle fuels higher than e40. You start receiving lean codes and will have a rough start and idle. You'll need a back end flash or an ecu tune to continue from there.

You able to help make a map6 with methanol