Looking to purchase a 2010 Genesis 4.6

[MrField]

Test drove one yesterday and it was much nicer than I expected.Is there anything I should know about these cars that im not aware of? My current car runs perfect but it doesn't have the features the Gen has.This car was 13k with 58k miles..so im assuming it still has a full warranty.

 

[EdP]

.This car was 13k with 58k miles..so im assuming it still has a full warranty.

Assume nothing. The original warranty is not fully transferred for the second owner. Check details and consider an extended warranty. Make it part of the price negotiation.

 

[Mark_888]

The "new vehicle limited warranty" is 60K miles or 5 years, whichever comes first. That warranty is transferrable, but it has expired.

There is a 100K mile or 10 year powertrain warranty, but that is not transferable to subsequent owners, unless the used car is sold as a CPO vehicle by the dealer (which I don't believe is possible on a vehicle that old).

There "might" be some time left on the 80K mile or 8 year Federal Emission Defect and Performance Warranty, depending on when that vehicle was first sold.

All of this information is on the Hyundai website, but read the terms carefully.

 

[homeofstone]

The 2010 did have some engine problems in early V8s. The 2011 year model is near bullet proof as far as the drive train. Some owners had trouble with the nav/sound system, I never did.

 

[Audio]

The 2010 did have some engine problems in early V8s. The 2011 year model is near bullet proof as far as the drive train. Some owners had trouble with the nav/sound system, I never did.

Damn near word for word what I came here to say lol. I do have one stereo problem, being that my CD/DVD drive does not function. Can't put a disc in, eject the 2 discs it claims are currently in there, or play either of them. But every single other function has been perfect.

Those "some engine problems" for the 2009's-early 2010's can be big(valve springs breaking). If caught early(hearing a top end tick), it can be fixed by only pulling the valve cover and having the springs replaced(the springs have been updated in the late 2010 engines and newer, and you will notice a part number difference between them).

Personally, I'd jump on a 201 V8 if it has all the options you want and you can get the price to where you're comfortable with it. Just need to stay on top of the valve spring issue if you ever hear a ticking from under a valve cover.

 

[MrField]

How expensive is that to get replaced if it happens?

Damn near word for word what I came here to say lol. I do have one stereo problem, being that my CD/DVD drive does not function. Can't put a disc in, eject the 2 discs it claims are currently in there, or play either of them. But every single other function has been perfect.

Those "some engine problems" for the 2009's-early 2010's can be big(valve springs breaking). If caught early(hearing a top end tick), it can be fixed by only pulling the valve cover and having the springs replaced(the springs have been updated in the late 2010 engines and newer, and you will notice a part number difference between them).

Personally, I'd jump on a 201 V8 if it has all the options you want and you can get the price to where you're comfortable with it. Just need to stay on top of the valve spring issue if you ever hear a ticking from under a valve cover.

 

[Audio]

Valve springs? I couldn't say for sure. A shop with the right tools could honestly do it in a reasonably short amount of time and the parts are pretty cheap. I am a mechanic, so I don't typically pay shops to touch my cars. I will say if a valve spring breaks and it goes unnoticed until the valve retainer drops the valve into the cylinder and you end up needing a new engine, the engine alone will be about $2500-3000 used.

 

[MrField]

Valve springs? I couldn't say for sure. A shop with the right tools could honestly do it in a reasonably short amount of time and the parts are pretty cheap. I am a mechanic, so I don't typically pay shops to touch my cars. I will say if a valve spring breaks and it goes unnoticed until the valve retainer drops the valve into the cylinder and you end up needing a new engine, the engine alone will be about $2500-3000 used.

Starting to scare me off lol..maybe I should look into the 2011 and above

 

[Audio]

lol I'd hate to know something major about a car and not tell someone considering one. A 2011 is a very safe bet. All kinks were fairly well worked out by then and you also don't need to deal with GDi carbon build up issues. If maintained, or if a valve spring cracks and you have the valve springs replaced before a catastrophic failure like mine, it shouldn't be a huge issue, but a 2011 is still the best option for a V8 car. I haven't heard ANY major mechanical failure issues with the V6 cars from 09-10 though. I just personally would always prefer the extra power.

 

[Gunkk]

Yep the V6's from any year are good. V8 4.6's from 11-12 are ideal.

These cars are cheap to purchase, but expensive repair due to single source parts and service from HMA, no aftermarket whatsoever.

'09-10's had issues with the power seat/tilt-steering limit switches, causing them to get stuck at one extreme or the other. I had my 09's replaced under warranty. '09's-10's commonly had head unit issues mostly with Tech-trim Lexicons 17 speaker variants. ANY Tech-trim 1st gen model can have expensive out-of-warranty replacement costs: $3k head unit, $2.5k ABS and $2k radar modules smart-cruise cars. I had HECU (ABS) units replaced in both my cars: the '09 pre-recall under warranty after a pedal-to-the-floor-no-brakes failure, and the '12 under extended warranty after a not-so-pucker-factor failure. Navigation map updates are dealer-only and expensive in the tech-trims, but you can DIY cheaply in the Premium trims.

My recommendation: take the VIN# of the car you want to your local Hyundai dealer and have them pull a detailed service history report for you. Talk to the service writer about it. You'll learn a lot about both the car and the dealer's service department. Your experience doing this will tell you a lot about the future cost of ownership of the car and you future happiness with the dealer.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!

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[Audio]

These cars are cheap to purchase, but expensive repair due to single source parts and service from HMA, no aftermarket whatsoever.

This is at least the 3rd, maybe 4th or 5th time you've regurgitated this sort of statement, and it's still not true. Please stop trying to scare people away from these cars based on how hard or expensive they are to fix. Hell, my Genesis is one of the easier cars I've ever worked on, and parts are on par with any other modern car, if anything on the low end.

Nav/Stereo components are relatively spendy if bought new, but not at all inflated when bought used. As for "no aftermarket", on things like stereo components, no there isn't. Go look for a non-factory brand 100% factory style head unit for ANY car and you wont find one, and on anything modern, the factory head unit will run you a pretty penny.

 

[blktiger12]

As a 2011 4.6L owner I can tell you that my experience has been nothing but fantastic. The drivetrain is flawless and the power (low end torque) still brings a smile to my face.
As an ex footballer I actually prefer the entry / exit of the 1st Gen vs the 2nd Gen.
My backup camera acts tired in high heat/humidity and the parking sensors may have some mice gremlins but this car is the BEST car Ive owned and Im a 20 year Lexus and BMW club member owning several of each in the past ten years.

I would highly recommend a 2011 4.6 .... Im not familiar with pre-2011 so I wont speak to them.

Good luck

 

[AgentSmith007]

As a 2011 4.6L owner I can tell you that my experience has been nothing but fantastic. The drivetrain is flawless and the power (low end torque) still brings a smile to my face.

I can second that.

 

[Gunkk]

This is at least the 3rd, maybe 4th or 5th time you've regurgitated this sort of statement.

Did you really just ask me to stop giving out my opinion on the internet, again?

Audio, you're not like most folks who come here asking about reliability. Most folks are NOT DIY home mechanics with your skills, tools, and time. While they're all smart enough to figure out how to source used copart engines for under $3k and some might even take the risks with ebay with a tail-light or door handle, they're not the type who replace their own engines.

These are BIG WALLET cars to fix at the dealer. German_luxury_car_big_wallet cars. And that's where most folks will be taking their cars. Folks want to be informed... so they ask.

I've been on these forums for what... 6 or 7 years and have seen hundreds of stories about folks who bought a used genesis cheap thinking they'll have a cheap ride only to run into very costly repair issues. Head units, HECU units, radar modules, transmissions, seats, etc. Happens all the time.

So yes I'll continue to post my opinions, just like you and everyone else.

Instead of coming after me, why don't you post up your sources.

Post up something USEFUL like where you got your $2500 engine, how you reprogrammed your computers to make them talk.

Or something small like how to reset a popped headrest for free. Oh wait, I did that.