Misfire and door squeaking is driving me nuts!

[gen16]

Hello everyone. I have a 2016 Genesis Sedan 3.8 with 13k miles.

Issue#1
After my oil change a couple of weeks ago I noticed slight misfires that made the car feel like it was stuttering during slight acceleration (20mph/2-3k rpm). It didn't happen frequently but it's happened at least a few times during the past week. I thought that I was being paranoid and it was just the rear tires slipping on the wet roads but then the check engine light started blinking. I restarted the engine and now the check engine light was solid. I had taken it to the dealership and they reported that the "misfire codes are not current, drove around the block but cannot duplicate code."

I'm assuming that this issue will not resolve itself and I'm afraid that this is going to lead me to making frequent visits to the dealerships only to be turned away because "We cannot duplicate it at this time." Should I try adding fuel cleaners or just hope that it happens to replicate during a dealership visit? I use top tier gasoline (87/reg) from either Costco or Shell.


Issue#2
Super squeaky/noisy driver side door. I know that this car can't be 100% squeak/noise proof but the squeaking that the driver side door makes is ridiculous when I drive over bumpy roads. I've made 3 visits to the dealership regarding this issue and they never know how to resolve it.

Thanks for reading! Any advice or input for things that I can try myself or bring up to my next dealership visit would be great.

Edit: Grammar

 

[Aquineas]

As for the misfire, that one would have me a bit nervous as well. I'm assuming no fuel station changes or anything that might contribute?

As far as the squeaking, get used to having to have the moonroof and door seals lubricated with white lithium grease on this car every 5-10K. You will be a much happier owner. Unfortunately with the panoramic moonroof, it's (probably) eventually going to rattle due to its inherent design (there seems to be a flaw in the roller mechanism or something), but at least you can get rid of the squeaking.

 

[dougmcp]

Issue#1: An occasional misfire can happen if the car didn't set up correctly when first started or some other anomaly which are mostly unimportant.
If it was misfiring, CEL blinking and set a CEL, it also set a code, a current one.
Do you know what code was set (likely something akin to P0300)?
If the dealer reset/erased the code it is gone from the memory and you won't know what it was until/if it happens again.
At your mileage you don't need any additives for the motor or the fuel yet. If you really feel you have to try something put a can of Techron in the tank next fill up.
Issue#2: The squeaking could be the rubber molding gaskets around the opening. Spray some silicone on a rag and wipe the moldings all the way around the door and see if that cures your squeak.

 

[pmckechnie]

First of all, the error codes are stored away so the dealer can diagnose the problem without actually feeling the misfire.

Next, my 2016 does not rattle or squeak. It has 22,900 miles on it and is as quiet as a any car I have ever been in.

I think you need to find another dealer or complain to Hyundai.

I know that a lot of people on this site say that the dealer is an independent business and not owned by Hyundai. This is very true, however Hyundai has a lot of control over
them when it comes to customer service problems. They do not like to hear from unhappy customers and can make the dealer repair the car to your satisfaction. Think about
this, Hyundai sells the cars to the dealer. If the dealer can't take care of their customers, Hyundai can refuse to sell them more cars. It has happened before.

 

[Mark_888]

First of all, the error codes are stored away so the dealer can diagnose the problem without actually feeling the misfire.

Next, my 2016 does not rattle or squeak. It has 22,900 miles on it and is as quiet as a any car I have ever been in.

I think you need to find another dealer or complain to Hyundai.

I know that a lot of people on this site say that the dealer is an independent business and not owned by Hyundai. This is very true, however Hyundai has a lot of control over
them when it comes to customer service problems. They do not like to hear from unhappy customers and can make the dealer repair the car to your satisfaction. Think about
this, Hyundai sells the cars to the dealer. If the dealer can't take care of their customers, Hyundai can refuse to sell them more cars. It has happened before.

I have often noted that Hyundai dealers are independent businesses. However, for warranty repairs, HMA has a lot of control since HMA pays the dealer for the warranty service provided and for warranty replacement parts, and I never suggested otherwise. To be a dealer, they have agreed to be legally obligated to perform warranty repairs for any Hyundai (or Genesis) customer, regardless of where the car was purchased (so long as in the USA).

However, some repairs are beyond the ability of a dealer to fix it. So although dealers are legally obligated to give a good faith effort, but not all problems can be fixed by a dealer, and may require that a case be opened with HMA.

- - - Updated - - -

Hello everyone. I have a 2016 Genesis Sedan 3.8 with 13k miles.

Issue#1
After my oil change a couple of weeks ago I noticed slight misfires that made the car feel like it was stuttering during slight acceleration (20mph/2-3k rpm).

Tell us more about the oil change. Who performed it. Did you check the oil level before taking the car back to the dealer?

 

[glennk]

I'm using Krytox 205 for the door squeaks.

 

[gen16]

Thank you for your replies and advice. I was out of town for a few days but I had the chance to drive my car again today. I had gotten my oil change at a dealership but went to a different dealership to diagnose my check engine light.

The code they pulled was a P0303.
I have not checked the oil levels before or after the change but I will check it first thing tomorrow morning.

The stuttering is becoming more frequent now and is now idling very rough sometimes at a stop (almost feels like the car is going to stall). The stuttering only happens during slight acceleration but never happens during hard acceleration. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it but at times (when stuttering or not) the A/c on max would not produce cold air. Although the problem has become worse with new symptoms the check engine light isn't coming back on. Also, the exhaust tips are much more black on the bottom side now.

If I take it back to the dealer without a check engine light what can be done?

Thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

I will look into that. Thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

No changes in fuel station use. I always use top tier gasoline. Ah I see thank you. I guess I'm not the only one with the squeaks!

- - - Updated - - -

Ah I see thank you. It was a code P0303. What's odd is that the problem has become worse (details on bottom post) but it is not showing another check engine light l.

 

[Midnightsun]

P0303 is a misfire of cylinder #3 as can be seen here. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0303 Oddly enough I had the same issue on my daughters 2006 Kia Rio which a simple coil pack change fixed it for good. Not saying this is your issue however the likely fix is either a bad spark plug or electrical going to or from the coil pack. If it were me, I would change the plug and coil pack on Cylinder #3 at my own expense (probably less than $75) as sometimes the tinkering and aggravation of multiple trips is just not worth the time and effort.

 

[gen16]

P0303 is a misfire of cylinder #3 as can be seen here. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0303 Oddly enough I had the same issue on my daughters 2006 Kia Rio which a simple coil pack change fixed it for good. Not saying this is your issue however the likely fix is either a bad spark plug or electrical going to or from the coil pack. If it were me, I would change the plug and coil pack on Cylinder #3 at my own expense (probably less than $75) as sometimes the tinkering and aggravation of multiple trips is just not worth the time and effort.

Thank you for the advice! Would replacing things on my own possibly void the warranty at all? I will definitely take a look / getting that done asap.

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I have often noted that Hyundai dealers are independent businesses. However, for warranty repairs, HMA has a lot of control since HMA pays the dealer for the warranty service provided and for warranty replacement parts, and I never suggested otherwise. To be a dealer, they have agreed to be legally obligated to perform warranty repairs for any Hyundai (or Genesis) customer, regardless of where the car was purchased (so long as in the USA).

However, some repairs are beyond the ability of a dealer to fix it. So although dealers are legally obligated to give a good faith effort, but not all problems can be fixed by a dealer, and may require that a case be opened with HMA.

- - - Updated - - -


Tell us more about the oil change. Who performed it. Did you check the oil level before taking the car back to the dealer?

So I had checked the oil this morning. First pic is before starting the engine for the day and the second is after driving for 15 miles and letting it cool for 10 minutes. I'm not sure if I'm reading it correctly or if checking the level is more accurate before or after starting the engine but could a possible overfill cause misfires?

 

[jsmit86]

I would not suggest working on the car yourself. Take the car back to your dealer, and politely INSIST that the fix the issue.
Show them the issue first. Make sure that one of the techs is with you to witness the problem.
Be polite but firm. Let them know that you will not accept anything less than a remedy.
If the dealer is not able to fix the problem, contact Genesis customer care.

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[dougmcp]

As Midnightsun said it is a misfire on #3 cylinder that set the P0303 code and in order it is likely a bad coil on plug, spark plug or connector to same.
If you haven't already done it, don't reset the code until your repairing dealer acknowledges it and let them reset.
Although it's a pretty simple job, if the car is still under warranty I would have the dealer do it and maintain a paper trail of issues for your records.

 

[gen16]

Thank you guys. The hyundai platinum techs had told me that the plugs, cools, and packs all look good (as per everyone's suggestions). They attempted to duplicate it again (or at least get a cel that they deleted the first visit) but failed and just sent me off again. On the drive home it actually drove completely normal... until I was stopped waiting in line at the bank drive thru. The car (in park) started kind of shaking / roughly wobbling but the rpm was at its normal idle position. I put it in drive and slowly left off the brakes and it started wobbling even harder. After a minute of that the check engine light is now back on. Tomorrow will be my 5th trip at 2 different dealerships because of this issue.

Should I start looking into another dealership to visit or should I contact hyundai if the next visit does not resolve this issue?

 

[AustinTX]

Should I start looking into another dealership to visit or should I contact hyundai if the next visit does not resolve this issue?

I would contact Hyundai even before the next visit to any dealership. 5 trips to two dealerships are 4 trips too many - this should have been addressed the first time you went to have it checked out.

I have the feeling that most "technicians" are just dumb computer operators now. They connect a computer, read an error code and if they don't get any specific instructions from the computer on what to do, they send you home. I don't need an "expert" to do that work, any high school kid that can operate a computer can do that job.

Make some noise with Hyundai, otherwise you will soon be on your 8th visit to the 4th dealership ...

 

[gen16]

Yeah, you do have a great point. I'm pretty sick of all the time I've wasted at dealerships :/.

 

[dougmcp]

Well now you have another CEL and with any luck it's the same P0303 so the dealer can confirm and repair. I would almost insist they change the coil on plug which seems odd at only 13K miles but still that's what it points to.

 

[gen16]

Hey all! I wanted to give an update on this post and not abandon it just in case someone may experience the same issues that I've been facing as of late.

06/09/17 - Spoke with Hyundai and I demanded that something get done/replaced on my next visit to a dealership. Dealership replaced the crankshaft sensor. Check engine light came on again on the way home.

06/12/17 - Went to the dealership in the morning for the check engine light. Service guy came to look at my car and told me the check engine light is now off. He said that it's due to a certain number of key cycles without the previous misfires that causes the light to turn off automatically.

06/29/17 - Check engine light has not come back on as of yet. I still feel like slipping/ rougher than normal idle occasionally but it comes and goes.

I'm not sure if this is related but here is something odd that I noticed and I'm not sure if it could possibly be related or if it's by pure crappy coincidence:

1. I like to turn my car on during the summer to get the AC going and cool down the car before I start driving but lately when I get in the car after 10 minutes or so idling with max blast AC on all I feel is a cool temp coming from the vents (slightly cooler than a fan blowing in room temperature). The AC does not get as cold as it should be until I start giving it some gas on the freeway (1-2 miles from home to freeway).

2. When the climate control or AC is on (also checked with vents on/off) it gets noticeably colder every time I press the gas and warmer when I stop pressing on the gas. I notice the difference every time because I face the vents towards my hands on the steering wheel.

Has this ordeal just made me paranoid and crazy? It's one thing after another with this car. On a brighter note, a friend of mine suggested that I try putting a layer or two of Gummi Pfledge Rubber Care Stick on the doors rubber seals and the squeaking is gone!

 

[glennk]

Have you had the compressor and the refrigerant levels checked?

 

[gen16]

I apologize for the super late reply. The AC is as cold as it should be now that the misfiring issue has been corrected (bad coil).

- - - Updated - - -

Hey guys. I apologize for the delayed response to this post. So, I finally had this issue resolved after multiple battles between HMA and the dealerships. Guess what it was? A BAD COIL!!! The same coil that I asked multiple dealerships to check but they were always "looking good". Once the misfiring was corrected my AC is back to blowing cold air (more consistently anyways). The incompetence of these dealerships are mind boggling.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, I wanted to be sure to update this so that someone could use my nightmare as a reference.