Mismatched Touch up Paint?

[LightningMcStig]

So, I wish I had pictures of this (I'm away from my vehicle for the next nine-ish months) but I got some touch up paint for a really nasty, down to the metal rock chip that was on my hood. RGY is the paint code for Siberian Ice...which is what I got. Only problem is the paint is definitely darker than the actual color of the car.

Did I do something wrong? Is this a known issue?

 

[Aquineas]

So, I wish I had pictures of this (I'm away from my vehicle for the next nine-ish months) but I got some touch up paint for a really nasty, down to the metal rock chip that was on my hood. RGY is the paint code for Siberian Ice...which is what I got. Only problem is the paint is definitely darker than the actual color of the car.

Did I do something wrong? Is this a known issue?

Oh sheesh, that's just great to know (I also have SI). I ran into this with my white 2010 Genesis sedan as well.

 

[LightningMcStig]

Oh sheesh, that's just great to know (I also have SI). I ran into this with my white 2010 Genesis sedan as well.

Yeah, it's really noticeable, unfortunately.

 

[CVODON]

Touch-up paint is never an exact match, neither is any paint. Collision shops do not buy ready to spray paint. There are numerous variances of the color from the manufacturer, Shop takes the code and mixes paint as specified then sprays a test panel which is compared to car, then tints to close as possible and paints repair area and blends into adjacent panel for acceptable match, then clears all the basecoat for a blend that is under the clearcoat and hopefully hard to see with the human eye.
So to buy a tube of touch-up paint that exact matches? This is just not gonna happen. Also most folks have no idea how to touch up, Very light coats of color coat to partially fill the scratch or chip, then numerous almost nothing coats of clearcoat to totally fill the scratch. Even a skilled person has a hard time completing touch-up in a single day. Color & Clear have to dry completely between coats. First clean with a grease/wax remover then I normally color coat in morning, then second coat in afternoon, clear the next day and then sand (With 2000 or higher grit) and buff the third day. Only way I know of to make a scratch or chip go-away.
Also quality touch-up kits (Harley for example) Usually come with three tubes, One of base, one of color and one of clear. These are definitely the best deal for a best possible match.

 

[FastEddie]

You need to shake it up for about 3 min and keep pressing the pen tip on a scrap piece of metal or cardboard till it comes out lighter. I had the same issue. Once it’s lighter it matches almost exactly. Also use thin coats not one big blob.

 

[LightningMcStig]

You need to shake it up for about 3 min and keep pressing the pen tip on a scrap piece of metal or cardboard till it comes out lighter. I had the same issue. Once it’s lighter it matches almost exactly. Also use thin coats not one big blob.

I shook it for a long time. I'll chalk it up to not clearing the tip out enough... I did it until it flowed.

Wonder if there's a way for to pop that little dot of touch off paint off the hood...

 

[pulsar]

Some colors are just difficult to touch up and match. My wife’s car is a pearl white color. Can’t get that genuine factory touch up paint to match no matter what. It will require a base coat before you lay down the color coat. SI is probably the same way so using only the color coat alone may not get you there. I have touched up some colors before and they looked nice so just depends how fancy the paint color is.

 

[Husky]

I'm looking for the paint code on my G70. Is it supposed to be on the driver's door jamb? I just have the tire pressure sticker, which has a number of G51 on it, which doesn't seem to match any of the paint codes for this car, according to the Google.
After waiting for 1 1/2 years, my dealer finally got my touch up paint, and I wanted to verify the color code. The package says E5E, which does match what the web has for Black Forest Green.
This fiasco may have been complicated by the fact that my car had the wrong tire pressure sticker on it from the factory. The sticker was for 19" tires, but the AWD Design Edition comes with 18". I asked the dealer to get the proper sticker put on. They finally did, but now it may have the wrong paint code on it!

 

[LightningMcStig]

The dealer should be able to give you the right code according to your VIN. That's how they got mine.

 

[Husky]

I would think so, but it was the dealer guy who said to check the door jamb sticker. It just continues the pattern of the dealer disappointing.

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[LightningMcStig]

I would think so, but it was the dealer guy who said to check the door jamb sticker. It just continues the pattern of the dealer disappointing.

Hah...sounds like he needs some training on this stuff. I never trust door jam stickers because they can easily be mislabeled, as you saw.

 

[pulsar]

I would think so, but it was the dealer guy who said to check the door jamb sticker. It just continues the pattern of the dealer disappointing.

Do you have the MSRP sticker that was on the window when you bought the car? That may also have the paint code on it. When I bought my touch up spray paint, several online places brought up 2020 G70 paint codes and color names to choose from.

 

[Husky]

Yes, good point, I'll check the window sticker. I tested the paint on a piece of scrap and it does look like a match.
I'm just wondering if the door jamb sticker now has the wrong code because they put one on that was meant for another car. It's not that I care so much, but it could really confuse some future owner.

 

[FastEddie]

The vin decal can’t or shouldn’t be wrong. A tire sticker maybe. The paint code is on the vin sticker.

If this matches one the windshield the paint code should be correct.

 

[[NOBODY]]

Touch-up paint is never an exact match, neither is any paint. Collision shops do not buy ready to spray paint. There are numerous variances of the color from the manufacturer, Shop takes the code and mixes paint as specified then sprays a test panel which is compared to car, then tints to close as possible and paints repair area and blends into adjacent panel for acceptable match, then clears all the basecoat for a blend that is under the clearcoat and hopefully hard to see with the human eye.
So to buy a tube of touch-up paint that exact matches? This is just not gonna happen. Also most folks have no idea how to touch up, Very light coats of color coat to partially fill the scratch or chip, then numerous almost nothing coats of clearcoat to totally fill the scratch. Even a skilled person has a hard time completing touch-up in a single day. Color & Clear have to dry completely between coats. First clean with a grease/wax remover then I normally color coat in morning, then second coat in afternoon, clear the next day and then sand (With 2000 or higher grit) and buff the third day. Only way I know of to make a scratch or chip go-away.
Also quality touch-up kits (Harley for example) Usually come with three tubes, One of base, one of color and one of clear. These are definitely the best deal for a best possible match.

That's a great process you describe, although I know for a fact you can get away with only an hour or 2 between then coats, and the buffing. I don't say this to be difficult, I have just done touch up on a lot of cars basically using the above process but a much shorter drying time between coats, and they've come our great. That's all.

Also for the OP, whites and light colors always have a hard time matching, the sun changes your light color, so it's never the same as in the bottle. Often super close, sometimes not so close, depending. Body shops - from my experience - almost never do touch ups, as it's too time consuming and difficult to match, they much prefer just to pain the whole body panel. Not much money to be made.

 

[[NOBODY]]

I shook it for a long time. I'll chalk it up to not clearing the tip out enough... I did it until it flowed.

Wonder if there's a way for to pop that little dot of touch off paint off the hood...

man, maybe a little rubbing alcohol near bye on a cloth? Seems like that should be able be a decent solvent while the paint is still wet, but not strong enough to hurt your finish. But I just guessing. I use a toothpick or a syringe to lay just a tiny drop into the chip at a time, it'll just flow off the tip of the toothpick or syringe into the chip with capillary action.