My 2013 Genesis 3.8 V6 won't start even with a new battery

[geninoob]

Hey guys, I am posting for the first time so please forgive me if this has already been discussed.

I am having issues with getting the car started. When I push the start button, the engine does not crank and I don't hear any clicks. All the lights come up and a minute later, the A/C, radio and the rest of the accessories turn on. When the accessories turn on, there is just a red battery indicator on the dash.

The battery is only a few months old. I have also tried taking the battery out and fully charging it, but that did not help. I am seeing the same issue.

Have you guys seen this before? I would appreciate any help.

 

[swltf183]

I had something similar happen with my 2012 Genesis. But I didn't have electrical power to anything.

I ended up having it towed to the dealer and they replaced the "integrated power module".

I don't think it was a coincidence that I had just replaced the battery two days before this happened. I suspect something got shorted during that replacement. Not sure why it took two days to decide it was shorted though.

 

[geninoob]

I had something similar happen with my 2012 Genesis. But I didn't have electrical power to anything.

I ended up having it towed to the dealer and they replaced the "integrated power module".

I don't think it was a coincidence that I had just replaced the battery two days before this happened. I suspect something got shorted during that replacement. Not sure why it took two days to decide it was shorted though.

Very interesting...were you able to lock/unlock your car or open the trunk when this happened? I am able to do all those things including turning on the headlights and wind shield wipers.

Anyone know if a bad alternator with a good battery would prevent the car from starting? In my experience most cars should at least start with a bad alternator, but don't know if Genesis has some kind of sensor that prevents the car from starting if the alternator is bad.

 

[G-233685]

N

Very interesting...were you able to lock/unlock your car or open the trunk when this happened? I am able to do all those things including turning on the headlights and wind shield wipers.

Anyone know if a bad alternator with a good battery would prevent the car from starting? In my experience most cars should at least start with a bad alternator, but don't know if Genesis has some kind of sensor that prevents the car from starting if the alternator is bad.

I had zero electrical power. Nothing worked. The car was totally shut down on me. So my situation was somewhat different than yours.

 

[Gunkk]

I don't quite understand what "all the lights come up a minute later" means. What "all the lights" suggests is unclear to me. But if there is a full minute between key on and lights on (dash, interior and/or DRLs at least) then that indeed is a problem. It should be on the order of tenths of seconds.

No crank, no start, no click ... could be many things, including:
1. starter relay.
2. various fuses.
3. the starter solenoid and/or wiring.
4. antitheft.
5. one or more computer modules.

Fuse Box Diagram Hyundai Genesis (BH; 2008-2013)

Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Hyundai Genesis (BH; 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013).

fuse-box.info

start with these in the engine bay:
START = starter relay
ECU = engine control relay
IGN SW-1 = ignition switch relay
IGN SW-2 = ignition switch relay

and these in the left fuse panel, instrument cluster:
PDM 2 = start button switch
IG KEY SUPPLY
SECURITY LP

 

[geninoob]

I don't quite understand what "all the lights come up a minute later" means. What "all the lights" suggests is unclear to me. But if there is a full minute between key on and lights on (dash, interior and/or DRLs at least) then that indeed is a problem. It should be on the order of tenths of seconds.

No crank, no start, no click ... could be many things, including:
1. starter relay.
2. various fuses.
3. the starter solenoid and/or wiring.
4. antitheft.
5. one or more computer modules.

Fuse Box Diagram Hyundai Genesis (BH; 2008-2013)

Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Hyundai Genesis (BH; 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013).

fuse-box.info

start with these in the engine bay:
START = starter relay
ECU = engine control relay
IGN SW-1 = ignition switch relay
IGN SW-2 = ignition switch relay

and these in the left fuse panel, instrument cluster:
PDM 2 = start button switch
IG KEY SUPPLY
SECURITY LP

Hey @Gunkk, thank you for your response.

I have checked all the relays including the ones you mentioned above and also tested them with a relay tester and they seem to be functioning fine. Also, I checked all the fuses you mentioned and they seem to be fine as well. So, I am a little lost as to what to do next. It is seeming more and more like my only option at this point is to get it towed to a dealership and have them check it out.

Here is a video of what I am seeing in the car. In the video, I did push the break pedal when I hit the start button. If you have any more ideas as to what else could be wrong, please let me know.

Thank you.

 

[Gunkk]

Instrument cluster lighting up delayed like that is definitely not normal. Almost behaving like there's a low voltage condition (like when the starter is cranking), but I don't hear even any clicking on the video and don't see the idiot lights dimming or flickering. So unless it's a shorted starter solenoid that's tripping something, it seems like a bad computer module. On a whim, is the antitheft LED on the top of the dash solid red or flashing?

Also curious.... if you push the start button once with foot OFF the brake (to put the car into to ACCessory mode) , do the instrument cluster and radio light up right away, delayed like in the video, or not at all? If you hit it a second time with foot OFF the brake (to put into Key ON mode, but not started) ... same questions. But this is just grasping at straws and idle curiosity. And then once the car is stable (instrument cluster and radio booted up and stable) if you then put your foot ON the brake pedal and hit the start button, does it all stay on or go back off and reboot again?

You could try pulling the negative battery cable to reset the computers.

Also IIRC you can try holding down the start button with foot OFF the brake for like 20-30 seconds (trans in Park). A normally working car will will bypass the brake switch and start.

If all this fails, your best bet is probably a dealer, unfortunately.

 

[G-392945]

Did this get a result

 

[TomF]

Since no one replied with a solution, I thought I would report our experience to maybe help the next guy. We had the same problem as the original poster. Same year, same engine. The video he posted looked exactly like what ours was doing. We replaced the keyfob batteries. No change. We had the 5-year old AGM battery tested. It was borderline, so we replaced it. No change. We tested all the fuses and relays that had anything to do with the starting system. All tested good. Still wouldn't start (didn't even get a starter clicking sound). Thought about the immobilizer, but judging by the dash light and talking to a locksmith, decided that wasn't it. Thought about the neutral safety switch and brake switch, but lost steam to troubleshoot those. Removed the starter relay and tried jumping the starter from there. Nothing - no starter clicking, just a spark or two on the contacts at the relay socket. Decided to replace the starter. Purchased a NEW (lifetime warranty) starter and attempted to replace it. Instructions in hand, started to tear into it, but gave up. Admitted defeat and had it towed to a neighborhood repair shop. They put in my new starter. Works like a champ now. Costs: pocket change for button keyfob batteries, $300 for an AGM, $300 for a new starter, $300 for the starter installation....but the wife's happy. They said the book time for the starter replacement is 1.9 hours. I don't know how they could do it in that short amount of time. I guess I'm slow and just don't have the right experience.

 

[captTaco79]

Since no one replied with a solution, I thought I would report our experience to maybe help the next guy. We had the same problem as the original poster. Same year, same engine. The video he posted looked exactly like what ours was doing. We replaced the keyfob batteries. No change. We had the 5-year old AGM battery tested. It was borderline, so we replaced it. No change. We tested all the fuses and relays that had anything to do with the starting system. All tested good. Still wouldn't start (didn't even get a starter clicking sound). Thought about the immobilizer, but judging by the dash light and talking to a locksmith, decided that wasn't it. Thought about the neutral safety switch and brake switch, but lost steam to troubleshoot those. Removed the starter relay and tried jumping the starter from there. Nothing - no starter clicking, just a spark or two on the contacts at the relay socket. Decided to replace the starter. Purchased a NEW (lifetime warranty) starter and attempted to replace it. Instructions in hand, started to tear into it, but gave up. Admitted defeat and had it towed to a neighborhood repair shop. They put in my new starter. Works like a champ now. Costs: pocket change for button keyfob batteries, $300 for an AGM, $300 for a new starter, $300 for the starter installation....but the wife's happy. They said the book time for the starter replacement is 1.9 hours. I don't know how they could do it in that short amount of time. I guess I'm slow and just don't have the right experience.

Wow. I. Very happy the worked for you. Your story sounds like I wrote it. I did exactly the same steps ...EXACTLY! Except when I took it to the neighborhood mechanic ( it took them 5 days) it did not start. Then I had it towed to dealership. They said they did no know but it was probably the ECU. Here is where it gets frustrating . They wanted me to prepay for a new one( $2k) but they did not know forsure it it would even work. ( $2k NON REFUNDABLE). They agreed to let me look into other options. I found a useful one $120 week later it arrived ( at this point I had not had my car for 1 month) they put it in and did not work. I then looked for a new ECU online. I found BCR flash tuned ECU. Atleast if I have to pay a couple grand the car will be faster. That company is the biggest load of pig sh!!t I have ever come across! If anyone is thinking they are a good idea to spend $$$ on, I have better advise. Invest in a hooker for a few hrs and then go to the casino. Definitely a better ROI than those guys BCR ...wtf! So I finally got my brand new super Tuned ECU after 7 weeks (2 months NO car) dealership plugs it in ..... the lights came on. Nothing else. No change. I beg for help from BCR and no response and no refund! Then the dealership calls to tell me to come get my car because they do not want it there anymore. I say you are the Hyundai repair gods of the land, you can't fix it? I told them to just FIX it and send me the bill. Of course then they say we need YOU to buy this ECU from a rival dealership in another state, because they will not sell it to us.WTF They gave me the number, I call to find out that they not have one. Apparently the are back ordered. ...... so I'm still waiting. This started in early March. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. Thx

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[G-140779]

Following this as I have 2012 in limp mode . low volts so replaced the throttle body and waiting to here. I was told need pcm so I am looking around. Its 3.8 v6. 224k miles