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Need help with my genesis 2009 4.6 misfire codes

Garufi

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Genesis Model Type
1G Genesis Sedan (2009-2014)
4 different misfires codes without description in any OBD computer. My check engine light is on blinking and car shakes when the engine is cold and after warm up the light is solid. Then I turn the car off and turn it back on and car still has check engine light solid but the car is smooth. I drive away and after few miles check engine goes away. This happens every other day. Any suggestions? Very appreciate it and thanks to all for your help.
 
4 different misfires codes without description in any OBD computer. My check engine light is on blinking and car shakes when the engine is cold and after warm up the light is solid. Then I turn the car off and turn it back on and car still has check engine light solid but the car is smooth. I drive away and after few miles check engine goes away. This happens every other day. Any suggestions? Very appreciate it and thanks to all for your help.
Moving this out of the "forum lounge".
 
Blinking engine light means shut it down or you could break something big. Codes that cause the blinking light include things like cams out of time or major detonation.

What are the codes?
 
Blinking engine light means shut it down or you could break something big. Codes that cause the blinking light include things like cams out of time or major detonation.

What are the codes?
306-307-302-300
 
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300 cylinder misfire
302 misfire cylinder #2
306 misfire cylinder #6
307 misfire cylinder #7

Light on says there is a problem.
Light flashing says it is happening at the time.

There are many reasons for cylinder misfires.
More information about the car, mileage, type of driving (a lot of short trips), how cold is cold etc may help.
 
It's odd that you're not getting any other sensor codes. A physical timing issue would usually throw a code about 1 or more cams being out of time and that wouldn't get better as the engine warmed up. Multiple cylinders and it's on both banks. I'd start looking at fuel, air intake path, and electrical issues that could effect ignition coils on multiple cylinders.

The service manual lists possible causes for P300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire) as:
Poor connection
Ignition system
Fuel system
Intake/exhaust air system
Ignition timing
Injector

The troubleshooting flowchart goes something like this:
Check spark plugs-> check for intake/exhaust air leakage->check PCV for air leakage->Check cylinder compression->check timing->check fuel pressure

Check that the battery voltage is good. A weak battery could be causing coil misfires across the engine.

Check that there's good gas in the car and there are no fuel leaks. Contaminated gas could cause this. Consider replacing the fuel filter (under the rear seat part of the pump). Most old cars have never had the filter replaced.

If anything has been done to the spark plugs or coils, confirm that all plugs are torqued to proper spec and coil packs are full seated on the plugs. Inspect the plugs for condition. Inspect the condition of the wiring going to the coil packs for any damage or corrosion.

Check the ignition related grounds are all in good shape and securely fastened.

There's a junction box in the wiring harness on the top of the intake manifold close to the firewall. It looks like a small black cube (GTGJC). That contains the shielding grounds for the ignition coils. Inspect for damage or corrosion. Those grounds attach on the drivers side fender under the cover for the ECM (GTG01).

There's a ground on the back side of the passenger cylinder head (GTG02) thats the ground for coils 1,3,5,7.

There's a ground on the back side of the drivers cylinder head (GTG03) that's the ground for coils 2,4,6,8.

There's a ground on the passenger side of the transmission above the O2 sensor (GTG04) that's the ground for the crankshaft position sensor shield, MAF, and TCM.

The fact that it's happening when cold could indicate a messed up mixture due to one of the emissions systems introducing more air into the intake during warm up. Maybe something related to purge control, variable intake system. Check for any obviously worn or damaged vacuum hoses for the PCV and other emissions components. Particularly the hoses controlling the variable intake system on the back of the intake manifold. Check that the air intake assembly is well attached and sealed. Check for leaks around the throttle body to intake and intake to cylinder heads. You can usually find this by spraying a little starting fluid around the component mating surfaces while the engine is running and listening for a change in idle.
 
It's odd that you're not getting any other sensor codes. A physical timing issue would usually throw a code about 1 or more cams being out of time and that wouldn't get better as the engine warmed up. Multiple cylinders and it's on both banks. I'd start looking at fuel, air intake path, and electrical issues that could effect ignition coils on multiple cylinders.

The service manual lists possible causes for P300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire) as:
Poor connection
Ignition system
Fuel system
Intake/exhaust air system
Ignition timing
Injector

The troubleshooting flowchart goes something like this:
Check spark plugs-> check for intake/exhaust air leakage->check PCV for air leakage->Check cylinder compression->check timing->check fuel pressure

Check that the battery voltage is good. A weak battery could be causing coil misfires across the engine.

Check that there's good gas in the car and there are no fuel leaks. Contaminated gas could cause this. Consider replacing the fuel filter (under the rear seat part of the pump). Most old cars have never had the filter replaced.

If anything has been done to the spark plugs or coils, confirm that all plugs are torqued to proper spec and coil packs are full seated on the plugs. Inspect the plugs for condition. Inspect the condition of the wiring going to the coil packs for any damage or corrosion.

Check the ignition related grounds are all in good shape and securely fastened.

There's a junction box in the wiring harness on the top of the intake manifold close to the firewall. It looks like a small black cube (GTGJC). That contains the shielding grounds for the ignition coils. Inspect for damage or corrosion. Those grounds attach on the drivers side fender under the cover for the ECM (GTG01).

There's a ground on the back side of the passenger cylinder head (GTG02) thats the ground for coils 1,3,5,7.

There's a ground on the back side of the drivers cylinder head (GTG03) that's the ground for coils 2,4,6,8.

There's a ground on the passenger side of the transmission above the O2 sensor (GTG04) that's the ground for the crankshaft position sensor shield, MAF, and TCM.

The fact that it's happening when cold could indicate a messed up mixture due to one of the emissions systems introducing more air into the intake during warm up. Maybe something related to purge control, variable intake system. Check for any obviously worn or damaged vacuum hoses for the PCV and other emissions components. Particularly the hoses controlling the variable intake system on the back of the intake manifold. Check that the air intake assembly is well attached and sealed. Check for leaks around the throttle body to intake and intake to cylinder heads. You can usually find this by spraying a little starting fluid around the component mating surfaces while the engine is running and listening for a change in idle.
Thank you both. Mike are you mechanic? If yes where are you? You seem to know all. I’ll thake my car to you to fix it cuz is been 3 mechanics including Hyundai dealer shop and they couldn’t fine the problem. The last mechanic says is ether oil or water getting in one or more spark plugs and he said is cheaper to buy a new engine than fix this, cuz are the valves seals that needs to be replace. What you think?
 
306-307-302-300
300 cylinder misfire
302 misfire cylinder #2
306 misfire cylinder #6
307 misfire cylinder #7

Light on says there is a problem.
Light flashing says it is happening at the time.

There are many reasons for cylinder misfires.
More information about the car, mileage, type of driving (a lot of short trips), how cold is cold etc may help.
85000 miles about 8 miles each way and cold after is park for 7 hours or so.
 
Thank you both. Mike are you mechanic? If yes where are you? You seem to know all. I’ll thake my car to you to fix it cuz is been 3 mechanics including Hyundai dealer shop and they couldn’t fine the problem. The last mechanic says is ether oil or water getting in one or more spark plugs and he said is cheaper to buy a new engine than fix this, cuz are the valves seals that needs to be replace. What you think?
Not a professional mechanic. I've owned a 4.6 sedan for about 8 years and I'm a decent shadetree mechanic. Rebuilt a 4.6, done timing chains, head rebuilds, and done an engine/trans remove replace so I'm pretty familiar with the 4.6 Tau. Having an oil filter come apart and block oil journals provided me quite the education on the Genesis.

If you're getting oil in the cylinders on the plugs then it's valve seals. Water would be head gaskets. You can't be sure unless you remove the plugs and inspect them. A compression test on each cylinder would also give you an idea. If you have low compression on those cylinders the head gasket, rings, or valves/valve seats are suspect. Maybe even borescope the cylinders while the engine's cold and see what's in there. Might not be a bad idea to look at the plugs cold as that's when the problem happens.

Valve seals worn on both sides could be an issue due to even mileage wear on both heads. That would require a head remove and replace on both sides, head disassembly and valve guide replacement. Basically taking the top of the engine off. It's not a horrible job, but if you're paying someone to do it then it's probably not cost effective. You'd also have to replace the head gaskets and a few other gaskets. The head bolts are torque to yield 1 time use, and they can be expensive to replace unless you track down a deal. If I recall correctly there's 10 bolts per head. The valve seals themselves are cheap.

I wouldn't go replacing head gaskets on both sides unless I had more confirmation that it was the issue. It's possible that the head gaskets on each side are bad but that's somewhat unlikely. Signs of bad head gaskets could be poor compression numbers on those cylinders, smell of burning coolant in the exhaust, coolant level dropping with no other explanation, car overheating, obvious signs of coolant on the plugs or in the cylinder, coolant in the oil. A head gaskets replace job would be a slight bit cheaper as you'd avoid the head disassembly labor and valve seal parts cost. It's still quite a bit of labor as the whole top of the engine would have to come off. The same gaskets and 1 time use bolts would have to be replaced.

Problem with the new engine is you don't know what you're getting from a junkyard. If you've owned the car and taken care of it you know what you're starting with. All of these cars are up in age with higher mileage, you could trade bad valve seals/head gaskets for worn rings and main bearings. If it were me and I was going to keep the car I'd replace the valve seals or head gaskets before I'd swap in another engine. Junkyard engines are going to run +$1500. If I did swap one in, I'd tear it down, inspect and replace gaskets and seals before it went into the car (I did exactly this on my car). So you either take a gamble and put a used engine in as-is or you still get hit with the parts and labor to freshen it up.

I wouldn't even consider an engine swap, head gaskets, or valve seals until I was sure the head gaskets or valve seals were bad.
 
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Do a SEARCH on this site for some of my posts regarding stalling issues I had with my 2008 V8/Tech... my car would start normally when stone-cold but stall once or twice when coming to a stop after being driven for a few minutes. Once past ten minutes or so it was perfectly reliable. No error codes were generated though and my dealer was at a loss; they had a difficult time even reproducing the issue. They unplugged and re-plugged every electrical connection under the hood, including at the computer (battery disconnected!), as a guess. That worked for a few months, then the issue returned. And it got far worse quickly. The car would suddenly run poorly (like massive misfire) and/or stall and would have a hard time re-starting. In my garage one time it belched gas-smelling black smoke as though one or more injectors were stuck open. At this time, there were different OBD-II codes generated (I have a reader that lives in my Genesis) each time it stalled; most though were various misfires. I had the dealer tow the vehicle back... When they tried to read codes they could not get a reliable connection with the main engine computer... the PCM itself was failing. It took a while to locate a new one as evidently there were several variations used in the early 2009 V8s like my car and it cost a pretty penny. But that cured the issues for over a year now. If you do get a new computer, make sure the dealer goes through the TSBs and recalls to get the most current PCM software; my new one had the original software and was two revisions out-of-date. I had to bring the car back and make them update it when OBD-II codes related to the first recall showed up on my car.

mike c.
 
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