No Electrical Power & Mystery Fuses in Battery Compartment

[Zoom]

Hello,
I've searched the forums and did not find the answer. Maybe my experience will help someone else. I was having an intermittent loss of all electrical power-no entry, nothing. I replaced the battery last year and so I checked the connections (I'm a old electronics tech) and removed the paint from the chassis battery ground area and dabbed a bit of tune-up grease on the area before re-bolting the battery ground lug. Still happening.

I observed two fuses in the positive lead junction box on the battery, one a 50 and one a 10. The 50 A is a J-Case style. My clue was that if I open and shut the trunk manually, power would be restored. Aha! The fuse has a fracture in its element. I've seen that happen before in electronic equipment. I replaced the 50A and no problems for two weeks, including a 600 mile trip.

Now the question...what are these for? I've searched the web and the owners manual and I've found nothing at all about these fuses. Considering that it typically takes 200A to start a car, this can't be to protect anything downstream, yet, the car was stone dead.
Thanks in advance!

2012 Gennie sedan, 3.8, Tech Pkg

 

[Ragnar]

Might be a good idea to take this question to your local hyundai service dept. hopefully they would be able to answer your question!!

 

[Jd2695]

I've had this exact problem in my 2015 g80 5.0. Except when I open the trunk, I have to give the positive battery cable a small jiggle and then all power is restored. My question is, since replacing the fuse, have you had any problems since?

 

[G-86478]

I have same prob on 2011 3.8 genesis. I wiggle positive battery cable and power restored. I have removed and totally tightened cables but prob is still coming up

 

[JustAGuy]

I have same prob on 2011 3.8 genesis. I wiggle positive battery cable and power restored. I have removed and totally tightened cables but prob is still coming up

I have the same year & model as you. I just replaced the 50amp fuse. Hope this resolves the problem. How did you fix yours?

 

[JustAGuy]

tightened cables but prob is still coming up

I have a 2011 Genesis 3.8 sedan with the same issue. Opening & closing trunk at one point restored power, jiggling the box attached to the positive terminal definitely restored power. I replaced the 50amp fuse yesterday. That didn't resolve the issue. Though the positive cables were all tightened & appeared secured, there was still a minimal amount of movement play when jiggled. I installed a battery shim on the + terminal. The cable is definitely secured/not movable. Hope this helps.

 

[OlderGuy1stGenesis]

Might be a good idea to take this question to your local hyundai service dept. hopefully they would be able to answer your question!!

=====================================================
If you don't have an answer, WHY post ? I don't know doesn't help anyone.

 

[OlderGuy1stGenesis]

Hello,
I've searched the forums and did not find the answer. Maybe my experience will help someone else. I was having an intermittent loss of all electrical power-no entry, nothing. I replaced the battery last year and so I checked the connections (I'm a old electronics tech) and removed the paint from the chassis battery ground area and dabbed a bit of tune-up grease on the area before re-bolting the battery ground lug. Still happening.

I observed two fuses in the positive lead junction box on the battery, one a 50 and one a 10. The 50 A is a J-Case style. My clue was that if I open and shut the trunk manually, power would be restored. Aha! The fuse has a fracture in its element. I've seen that happen before in electronic equipment. I replaced the 50A and no problems for two weeks, including a 600 mile trip.

Now the question...what are these for? I've searched the web and the owners manual and I've found nothing at all about these fuses. Considering that it typically takes 200A to start a car, this can't be to protect anything downstream, yet, the car was stone dead.
Thanks in advance!

2012 Gennie sedan, 3.8, Tech Pkg

================================================
Good comments. I know from my experience with cars, batteries and commercial hvac, that connections and quality of wires is always critical. On my 2014, Genesis sedan, I already did those things on the negative side. AND I found that disturbed, the negative post cable began to turn or swing freely on the post. I had to add a 1/2 of a lead shim to restore a tight fit. When I replace the battery in the future, I will disconnect the somewhat complicated positive post fusing and wiring to clean, sand, buff and renew all those contacts points (at least four) I am a real fan of both automotive/electronic dielectric grease (enhances clean connections and conductivity and protects against corrosion) and the commercial electrician's equivalent no-alox sold in electrical supply outlets and Lowes and so on. I'll use that stuff any time I change a bulb, on battery cable paths, electrical plug in points, alternator terminals and so on. Many a weird poor intermittent connection problem is caused by loose connections in the midst of high humidity and corrosion. Once a car has four years on it, it is no longer ''new'' from the factory. 97% of people quick change batteries but never clean all that !

 

[JustAGuy]

================================================
Good comments. I know from my experience with cars, batteries and commercial hvac, that connections and quality of wires is always critical. On my 2014, Genesis sedan, I already did those things on the negative side. AND I found that disturbed, the negative post cable began to turn or swing freely on the post. I had to add a 1/2 of a lead shim to restore a tight fit. When I replace the battery in the future, I will disconnect the somewhat complicated positive post fusing and wiring to clean, sand, buff and renew all those contacts points (at least four) I am a real fan of both automotive/electronic dielectric grease (enhances clean connections and conductivity and protects against corrosion) and the commercial electrician's equivalent no-alox sold in electrical supply outlets and Lowes and so on. I'll use that stuff any time I change a bulb, on battery cable paths, electrical plug in points, alternator terminals and so on. Many a weird poor intermittent connection problem is caused by loose connections in the midst of high humidity and corrosion. Once a car has four years on it, it is no longer ''new'' from the factory. 97% of people quick change batteries but never clean all that !

The shim on the + terminal seems to have resolved my issue. My battery was replaced almost 2yrs ago, seems like the problem would of occurred much earlier.

 

[ottawaal]

Just had the same issue no power no dome light. Jiggled the Battery connections and all is well. Going to the garage to have the post and terminals cleaned and reinstalled.
Thanks to all for your posts.

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[Dkjones]

The shim on the + terminal seems to have resolved my issue. My battery was replaced almost 2yrs ago, seems like the problem would of occurred much earlier.

 

[Sal Collaziano]

Did you mean to say something?

 

[Millerdg]

Thanks for the posts on the intermittent loss of power. I have taken the car to the dealer twice with no success and over $500 in fees. Please let me know if the shim on the battery works.

 

[Qship]

The shim on the + terminal seems to have resolved my issue. My battery was replaced almost 2yrs ago, seems like the problem would of occurred much earlier.

Thanks for the posts on the intermittent loss of power. I have taken the car to the dealer twice with no success and over $500 in fees. Please let me know if the shim on the battery works.

Post #9 already answered this.

 

[Mygen252]

I inserted the shim on negative terminal post as it was loose even after tighting. The battery is new and 950cca is recommended but it generating 1150cca when checked at interstate batteries, the car stops like the power cut off and it didn't start from the dealership lot. Waiting to find the issue. The issue became worse after inserting the shim on negative post.

Did anybody had any luck to find out the problem or fixed the issue

 

[Gowjer]

Hello,
I've searched the forums and did not find the answer. Maybe my experience will help someone else. I was having an intermittent loss of all electrical power-no entry, nothing. I replaced the battery last year and so I checked the connections (I'm a old electronics tech) and removed the paint from the chassis battery ground area and dabbed a bit of tune-up grease on the area before re-bolting the battery ground lug. Still happening.

I observed two fuses in the positive lead junction box on the battery, one a 50 and one a 10. The 50 A is a J-Case style. My clue was that if I open and shut the trunk manually, power would be restored. Aha! The fuse has a fracture in its element. I've seen that happen before in electronic equipment. I replaced the 50A and no problems for two weeks, including a 600 mile trip.

Now the question...what are these for? I've searched the web and the owners manual and I've found nothing at all about these fuses. Considering that it typically takes 200A to start a car, this can't be to protect anything downstream, yet, the car was stone dead.
Thanks in advance!

2012 Gennie sedan, 3.8, Tech Pkg

I have a similar problem with my newly acquired 2015 genesis coupe. After all the crap I had to get through just to have a key cut to this car, and the follow-up of the FOB *programming, the car still wouldn't start ( *programming part ended up being free, and entire electronics cluster ect. worked, including the awesomest stock stereo system ever!!)
The very next day, I bought a brand new DieHard GOLD, and swapped batteries. Now, it's just as if there's no battery, whatsoever.
Nothing registers, not even a single light comes on.
This is my current state.... 2/02/2020
Lol wtf!?!

 

[G-45845]

Hello,
I've searched the forums and did not find the answer. Maybe my experience will help someone else. I was having an intermittent loss of all electrical power-no entry, nothing. I replaced the battery last year and so I checked the connections (I'm a old electronics tech) and removed the paint from the chassis battery ground area and dabbed a bit of tune-up grease on the area before re-bolting the battery ground lug. Still happening.

I observed two fuses in the positive lead junction box on the battery, one a 50 and one a 10. The 50 A is a J-Case style. My clue was that if I open and shut the trunk manually, power would be restored. Aha! The fuse has a fracture in its element. I've seen that happen before in electronic equipment. I replaced the 50A and no problems for two weeks, including a 600 mile trip.

Now the question...what are these for? I've searched the web and the owners manual and I've found nothing at all about these fuses. Considering that it typically takes 200A to start a car, this can't be to protect anything downstream, yet, the car was stone dead.
Thanks in advance!

2012 Gennie sedan, 3.8, Tech Pkg

There is 100 amp fuse inline with upstream. Starters nowdays require far less amperage.

 

[Mygen252]

There is 100 amp fuse inline with upstream. Starters nowdays require far less amperage.

After connecting and tightening the terminals make sure that you can't pull out the terminal with your bare hand,

If it didn't come up check after two days of driving or when the power cut off, mostly the terminal for the ground is getting loose at the battery.post.

I had a brand new battery from canadian tire made by interstate and the termjnalmposg was smaller than it needed which resulted in lose of power, ended up in buying the oem battery from the dealership which they ripped off me- but solved the problem.

 

[Mygen252]

I have a similar problem with my newly acquired 2015 genesis coupe. After all the crap I had to get through just to have a key cut to this car, and the follow-up of the FOB *programming, the car still wouldn't start ( *programming part ended up being free, and entire electronics cluster ect. worked, including the awesomest stock stereo system ever!!)
The very next day, I bought a brand new DieHard GOLD, and swapped batteries. Now, it's just as if there's no battery, whatsoever.
Nothing registers, not even a single light comes on.
This is my current state.... 2/02/2020
Lol wtf!?!

The issue is with the battery post. All after market battery comes for genesis has issue with battery post size and ends in loosing power due to loose connection. Get the oem they are not that expensive may be a 100 bugs max and that solves your issue.

 

[Spacitti]

My car was going electrically dead (a couple times while I was driving). Sometimes heard a pop (like a blown speaker, when turning off the car). I could wiggle the NEGATIVE battery cable and power would come back. My mechanic says it's the rear junction box. I haven't had the repair done yet, so I'll keep my fingers crossed.