Oil Catch Can (OCC) on 2017 G80 5.0L

[Beeswax]

You, sir, are wrong. Please take a look at these pictures and tell me if this engine is going to be fine. I noticed this carbon buildup after removing the surge tank in order to get to the spark plugs.

Oil Catch Cans save engine lives! How many miles on your 3.8?
I changed the spark plugs on my 16' 3.8 @ 49K miles and already saw some built up inside the manifold/surge tank and on the valves, but not as much as in your photos. At the same time doing the plugs, I installed a new PCV valve, a new mid/upper manfld gasket and an oil catch can, for a piece of mind. I also noticed that all of the oem ngk spark plugs were leaking compression (rusty color @photos) at 49K miles, but the tips still looked good.

Did your spark plugs look the same way when you pulled them out?
Did you notice a smoother idle or the rpm needle being sturdier, after the plugs?

 

[Origin_G80]

Oil Catch Cans save engine lives! How many miles on your 3.8?
I changed the spark plugs on my 16' 3.8 @ 49K miles and already saw some built up inside the manifold/surge tank and on the valves, but not as much as in your photos. At the same time doing the plugs, I installed a new PCV valve, a new mid/upper manfld gasket and an oil catch can, for a piece of mind. I also noticed that all of the oem ngk spark plugs were leaking compression (rusty color @photos) at 49K miles, but the tips still looked good.

Did your spark plugs look the same way when you pulled them out?
Did you notice a smoother idle or the rpm needle being sturdier, after the plugs?

I have over 150K miles on my G80. This was the first time spark plugs have been changed on this vehicle. They looked very much like your but also were a little wet. Im taking care of that carbon buildup as I type this. Will report back soon.

 

[Origin_G80]

A little update.

Five pictures. Same cylinder. This is what I started with. CRC intake valve cleaner and brake cleaner worked a little but did not produce drastic results. There was still a lot of carbon build up. At that point I was gonna call it a day and move on to the next cylinder but ran out of the spray. Found this little guy and my local auto parts store, dirt cheap, and decided to give it a try one last time and as you can see it gets the job done. This was probably one of the worst cylinders and I am very happy with how clean it came out. I think I need to give it one more go and bring it to factory condition

 

[2015genesisNewbie]

2015 genesis sedan 5.0 with 55k miles. I just installed an oil catch can 11/2/20... opened it today and there was about half a cup of oil in it!!! I don’t know what my valves look like but based on the amount of oil that came out of my oil catch can after only 2.5 months I assume they must be pretty gunked up. I would say an oil catch can is a must have installation on the 5.0 L V8 Genesis engine. If I would’ve known I would’ve installed one much sooner!

 

[armstsho2015]

The problem is not cleaning the valves, but getting the cleaner to the valves where the crud accumulates. On a GDI engine, the gas is injected directly into the cylinder, bypassing the valves. This contrasts with EFI, where using gasoline with decent cleaning additives (such as Techron) will keep the valves reasonably clean.

I don't think that using Seafoam in the oil crankcase will help either. But I would make sure and use a good quality synthetic oil.

- - - Updated - - -


Sounds like normal internet gossip about Amsoil. First of all, Amsoil makes three different "synthetic" motor oils, and only one of them is entirely Group IV or V components (aka "real" synthetic). But that motor oil is not API approved and it does not meet other Hyundai specs for the Genesis. It is also very expensive.

Mobil 1 sold in Europe (and also Mobil 1 sold in the USA for MB, etc such as 10W-40 European Formula) is also 100% Group IV or V components (real synthetic), but I would not recommend it for a Genesis, because the viscosity is too high, and it fails to meet other Hyundai specs for the Genesis.

Having used Mobil 1 for a long time, I have never had to add oil between changes for the last 20 years, so I don't think evaporation (measured by NOACK volatility) of Mobil 1 is a problem.

FWIW, Shell's Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic brand (not their regular Platinum) claims to have extremely good engine cleaning abilities. The new Pennzoil synthetics are made from natural gas.

My next vehicle s probably going to have an engine like the Toyota V6 engine mentioned earlier in this thread, that uses a combination of DGI and EFI to make sure that the back of the valves get some gasoline to keep them clean.

Hello, do me a favor and give me a link to that oil that's not API rated.

 

[Mr. Dobalina]

Installed a $30 catch can on my 2015 5.0. Wish I had done it sooner! This is from 3 weeks and 500 miles.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FXYVBJ5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

[acelottski]

I recently completed installation of an ADD W1 Oil Catch Can (OCC) on my 2017 G80 5.0L and finally got around to taking some pictures of it (see attached photos).

I went for a cleaner installation using 3/8" steel tubing vice using rubber tubing. I also wanted to make it easy to swap back to OEM configuration. As you can see in the photos, all that is required to do the swap is remove two bolts and two hose clamps. The whole set-up then comes out in one piece, after which I simply re-connect the OEM PCV hose to the PCV valve.

For a mounting bracket, I bought a steel "L" corner bracket at Lowe's, bent up one leg of the "L" in a bench vice, drilled two holes for the OCC bracket, and trimmed off the excess metal with a hack saw. I bought a bolt and attached the mounting bracket to the unused bolt hole on the valve cover.

For the connectors, I bought two 3/8" threaded nut adapter fittings and two 3/8"x3/8" threaded adapter union fittings at Lowe's. You could also buy 3/8"x3/8" threaded flare x MIP adapter fittings, but the thread on the adapter going into the OCC body is male NPT whereas the hole in the OCC body itself is female NPS, so you'd have to re-tap the threading in the OCC body to female NPT standards. I just used the union fittings (which have NPS threading on both ends) with teflon tape and it worked out fine.

I also bought a 3/8" hose clamp to secure the tubing and help to stabilize the OCC.

For the tubing, I bought a PA-620 and a PA-630 3/8" steel fuel line at AutoZone which comes pre-flared. If you know how to flare steel tube and have the tools to do it, you can just buy stock 3/8" steel tubing and flare it yourself. I also got a tubing bender (free loaner at AutoZone).

I'm thinking of painting the whole contraction up in flat black, but I'll leave that for a later project.

If you've done any research on GDI engines, you know that they have issues with carbon buildup on the intake valves. The buildup comes from the "baking on" of oil vapors and mist that are routed from the PCV system back into the intake plenum. Since fuel is now injected directly into each cylinder, there is no "washing" of the intake valves from the detergents found in most fuels these days or fuel additives that you put in your fuel tank. The OCC helps to capture much of that oil before it can get to the intake plenum. I've only put about 100 miles on my OCC and it's already got about a 1/2mm layer of oil in the bottom of the can so, if I'm doing my math correctly, it has already captured about 1.3ml of oil.

There are so many ADD Catch Cans, I've asked them for a recommendation for the 5.0.

How do you drain yours? There's a petcock drain kit, but no instructions on how to install it. If the kit doesn't work for our cars, I was thinking of extending the bracket out a couple more inches so I can screw the bottom off.

What do you do?

 

[Securace]

Thankfully after seeing everything here and measuring a ton, I was also able to get a clean setup on my 2018 5.0.

I used Mishimoto's baffled catch can, ordering a set of 3/8 barbs to match the oem pcv, and 3/8 hose from them. Without having to do any bending, I managed to find a random bracket on Amazon that had the correct holes and sizing. All in all, I'd switch out for cleaner looking clamps, but seems to be a good look and deletes nothing, close to OEM.

Anyone needs a parts list or install lmk

 

[NSXNEXT]

Thankfully after seeing everything here and measuring a ton, I was also able to get a clean setup on my 2018 5.0.

I used Mishimoto's baffled catch can, ordering a set of 3/8 barbs to match the oem pcv, and 3/8 hose from them. Without having to do any bending, I managed to find a random bracket on Amazon that had the correct holes and sizing. All in all, I'd switch out for cleaner looking clamps, but seems to be a good look and deletes nothing, close to OEM.

Anyone needs a parts list or install lmk

Post some pics. Always like seeing how other people installed theirs.

 

[Securace]

Post some pics. Always like seeing how other people installed theirs.

Don't mind the dirty engine bay! Best spot I found was about a 6-7in. space above a 10mm bolt. With the normal (not XL) sized mishimoto 2-port can, I can unscrew the reservoir during oil changes without dismounting.

Should a dealer ever need to look under the hood, the bracket comes off at the 10mm and stock pcv hose is there with an adapter.

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[Gigantor]

Ok...time to report on my OCC. I ordered a black one but all they had was blue and red, so I went with red to match the intake banding. It was an e-bay special that I think is the cheaper, non-branded version of the one the OP installed. I didn't really feel like bending metal tubing and went with the cheap rubber fuel hose method. The bracket is made with some cheap aluminum bar that I had from a previous project. I bent it with nothing more than 2 crescent wrenches. The little piece of foam between the bracket and OCC keeps it from vibrating around. There are 2 bolts holding down the cover over the ignition wires. I "borrowed" one of them to secure the can. It's an odd metric size and I still need to find a replacement to put back on the cover, but even with only 1 remaining it seems pretty secure.

I installed it about 1000 miles ago and just opened it to see what I had caught. I was both amazed and disgusted. Glad I caught this from going on the backside of my intake valves!!! So I can recommend this as a great weekend project that may extend the life of your motor and save you from an expensive cleaning on down the road.

Thanks for the inspiring me to finally install an OCC on my 2015 5.0. I have ~64K on mine with no apparent carbon issues, so I'm hoping this keeps it that way.