Oil Change From Hades: Replace all belly pan bolts with stainless steel bolts

[II Kings 9:20]

My 2015 Genesis 3.8 HTRAC requires 2 belly pans to be removed to change the oil. It is insanely complicated with the removal of the front pan that requires 8 plastic push pins (4 missing) at the bumper/fender liner and 5 rusty 10mm bolts. Two were rusted in and snapped.

The second belly pan that extends to nearly the rear axle needs to be removed to access the drain bolt. It has about ten 10mm rusty bolts. Several broken off prior to my ownership. The rusty bolts pictured were like this 2 years ago when I bought it with a couple already broken on a 3 year old car.

I'm not going to get into the ridiculous design for an oil change. Rube Goldberg award for unnecessary complexity.

A couple of tips to share and I would do these simple, cheap measures to make life simple down the road.

Next oil change, replace all bolts with stainless steel M6x1.00x20mm.
5 bolts for $1.27 at Lowe's. Will save lots of headaches and labor down the road.
You will need to clean out the rusted threads from all nuts.

I need to get a mechanic to drill out the one bolt that I can't get despite my best efforts.

There are 2 metal tabs that attach to the steering rack that hold a rusted weld nut.
I removed the brackets from the aluminum steering rack to dremel off the rusted weld nuts where one bolt was already snapped.
I took them to the weld shop and had stainless steel nuts welded in place ($3 labor each).

I used anti seize on the new stainless bolts especially on any that insert into rusted weld nuts that I have no access to cut off like on the steering rack tabs.

I no longer deal with the ridiculous rear pan to drain the oil (why no access panel Hyundai, why 10-12 bolts) since I do oil extraction with my air compressor down the dipstick tube.

I won't get into the ridiculous location for the plastic oil filter canister.

 

[Markymark]

Agree.

 

[Markymark]

Just a follow up on the original post. (Since my dealership is apparently booked for 4 solid months, I changed the oil and filter myself on my 2015 5.0 yesterday.) A couple of notes/questions:

(1) The oil filter drain plug - Previous techs rounded out the allen key socket and I had to use channel locks to remove it. Does anyone know if this is a Hyundai part number and if so what is it?

(2) The oil filter cannister socket is 24MM. In Gen 1 5.0s, it was apparently 1-1/16".

(3) The front belly pan bolts - Yes, I am replacing the steel ones with SS ones and will have to chase the holes to get the threads back up to snuff. Why did Hyundai make such a non-durable design? The belly pan has been off at least 20 times and I bet every time, one of the techs stripped the threads or broke one of the plastic fasteners.

(4) I used a topsider oil extractor and it worked great, even though it was slow. I got at least 7-1/2 quarts out total. I am never removing the rear belly pan. You can't get decent access to the rear belly pan bolts just using rhino ramps.

 

[5.0KDM]

Just a follow up on the original post. (Since my dealership is apparently booked for 4 solid months, I changed the oil and filter myself on my 2015 5.0 yesterday.) A couple of notes/questions:

(1) The oil filter drain plug - Previous techs rounded out the allen key socket and I had to use channel locks to remove it. Does anyone know if this is a Hyundai part number and if so what is it?

The OEM filter kit comes with a new oil filter drain plug.
I just had issue with mine also the rear pan finally gave way and started to drag. The previous owner must have just bent the pan to drain the oil. If you order the panels for the newer 2017 genesis g80 they have access panels for the filter and drain plug. Front cover is#29110-B1210 and 29140-B1210 is the rear cover.
Source: @carguy75

 

[carguy75]

Just a follow up on the original post. (Since my dealership is apparently booked for 4 solid months, I changed the oil and filter myself on my 2015 5.0 yesterday.) A couple of notes/questions:

(1) The oil filter drain plug - Previous techs rounded out the allen key socket and I had to use channel locks to remove it. Does anyone know if this is a Hyundai part number and if so what is it?

(2) The oil filter cannister socket is 24MM. In Gen 1 5.0s, it was apparently 1-1/16".

(3) The front belly pan bolts - Yes, I am replacing the steel ones with SS ones and will have to chase the holes to get the threads back up to snuff. Why did Hyundai make such a non-durable design? The belly pan has been off at least 20 times and I bet every time, one of the techs stripped the threads or broke one of the plastic fasteners.

(4) I used a topsider oil extractor and it worked great, even though it was slow. I got at least 7-1/2 quarts out total. I am never removing the rear belly pan. You can't get decent access to the rear belly pan bolts just using rhino ramps.

The OEM drain bolt is pretty cheap. Here is the part number and place to order one.

 

[Andyj]

The 2015 3.8l v6 oil filter is serviceable from the top with a proper socket and ratchet, and the oil can be siphoned through the dipstick tube. No need to deal with the undercarriage. The 5.0l V8 oil filter is apparently not serviceable from the top.