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OIL CHANGE ON 2019 G80 RWD

ALLEN308

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Genesis Model Type
Genesis G80
does know the size socket I will need to remove the oil filter cap to replace the cartridge and o-ring gasket? Thanks
 
On a 2018 G80 Sport V6 3.3TT oil filter/cover cap is a 27mm socket. I can't speak to a 2018 G80 RWD. I suggest specifying which engine you've got (V6-3.3T, V6-3.8 or V8-5.0) because it MAY be different.

Pictures and information on oil changes, albeit focused on 2018 G80 Sport 3.3T, can be found here.
 
Did anyone ever confirm the oil housing socket size for the G80 3.8?
 
Did anyone ever confirm the oil housing socket size for the G80 3.8?
Can you use an adjustable wrench on it? Metric, of course.
 
Yes, I can - and probably will. Just my luck, I'll strip it with my Crescent wrench.. metric, of course. 😄
 
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Looks like they all use the 27mm cap. This was from a 2016 video, I doubt they've changed anything.
 

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On my 2018 G80 Sport 3.3T AWD oil filter plastic housing cap is a 27mm socket. Oil drain plug is 17mm.

I did my 30K mile oil/filter change last weekend.

You'll need a ratchet with an adjustable/flexible head for the oil filter cap. The !@#$% cap extends past the cover/opening, making it near impossible to get a 90 degree ratchet, even with a swivel attachment, into the opening.
 
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So I finally changed the oil on my 2019 G80 3.8.

Process was easy, I jacked up the left front side of the car using a 3 ton floor jack and put a jack stand next to the floor jack for safety. I was able to access the oil filter and drain plug with ease.

Not sure if it's okay for the car's frame to jack it up on one side to change the oil 20 times over the car's life, so I may buy some Rhino Ramps instead. I never liked getting under a car held by jacks and stands, anyway. At least I'm not in an earthquake prone area!

A simple socket set was used to remove and install everything, no issue there - easy access.

The oil drain plug faces rearwards on the car, so raising the front end might help with draining all the oil out. It uses a 17mm socket to access.

The two access panels were easy to remove and use a 10mm socket, but the rear one which accesses the oil drain plug also had two plastic snap-in panel joiner things that also had to be removed. Overkill if you ask me, but it is what it is. Just pry them open with a flat blade screwdriver and they pull out easily.

I made the mistake of buying 10 oil drain plug aluminum gaskets - I didn't realize that one comes with the WIX oil filter I had bought. So I'll never use those. The filter also comes with the rubber o-ring you need to replace on the oil filter cap.

My old drain pan only held 5 quarts, so I bought a new one that holds eight quarts. It's the Capri Tools CP21024, on Amazon for $20. It's easy when it comes to pouring the old oil out. This engine holds 7.3 quarts, it worked well. Plus, it's very convenient to have a second catch pan - one for the oil, and one for the filter.

I bought a 27mm socket to remove the oil cap to access the old cartridge filter. Bought the "Steelman 27mm Low Profile Oil Filter Wrench Socket" on Amazon for $10. It's well made. You could use a box or crescent wrench but it would not be nearly as easy. Plus, you're less likely to damage the cap by using a proper socket.

For oil, I used Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and the filter is a WIX WL10033. Got the oil at Walmart, bought three 5 quarts jugs - the 3.8 engine uses just under 1.5 jugs per change, so I kept half a jug which I'll use on my next oil change. Actually, the car seemed to use more like 7.25 quarts, so I may use the extra, left over oil to help flush the old stuff out on next oil change.

The WIX WL10033 oil filter was bought at RockAuto.com. They have good prices and fast shipping. I researched every filter available for this engine and the WIX is about as good as they get.

I noticed that the oil filter housing is made by Mahle, and that company also makes oil filters for this car. I overlooked them when searching for filters but will consider them in the future. I suspect the OEM filters are made by Mahle. One would think Mahle knows how to make filters for their own filter housing.

The only unusual part of this was replacing the new filter, o-ring, and cap onto the filter housing. It became tight sooner than expected as I was screwing it on, I was afraid I was cross-threading it. There were marks of white paint on the filter housing, one on the housing and one on the cap. Before I removed the cap I noticed the two white marks lined up. When replacing the cap I stopped tightening it when the marks lined up again and the cap was seated. I was glad to have that visual reference.

I was able to get all the old oil into empty jugs I had, filling empty space in old jugs used by two other cars. There's a Qwik Lube on my way to work where I can dump the old oil, so no issue there.

All in all, I would say that I can change the oil in the car in equal or better time that it would take two drive it to the dealer and have it done. I don't trust the Genesis valet pick up anyway, or the synthetic oil upcharge, so this works for me. Plus I kind of enjoy doing the work.
 
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I do my oil changes from the oil dipstick tube using the Topsider vacuum and get the filter from the top with a small shallow plastic tray under the filter housing cap and don't spill a drop.
 
Nice. My 2015 3.8l doesn't have the access panels but I'm tempted to do the change from the top.
Yes, I could certainly reach the filter housing from the top, but the oil would go all over the panel. I'd say about 1/4 quart came out.
 
I do my oil changes from the oil dipstick tube using the Topsider vacuum and get the filter from the top with a small shallow plastic tray under the filter housing cap and don't spill a drop.
That's great... never thought of that. Didn't realize there was enough clearance for a tray.
 
Nice. My 2015 3.8l doesn't have the access panels but I'm tempted to do the change from the top.
I just did my first oil and filter change today. I ending up buying ramps to get to those rear bolts. It was such a PITA. I was wondering if anyone uses a fluid extractor and if you are able to get all the oil out?
 
I'm not sure I'd even attempt it without the factory access panels on the new models. That made the process easy. Yes, some use oil extraction with success.

Bradski, what year so you have? Do you have the access panels?
 
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I'm not sure I'd even attempt it without the factory access panels on the new models. That made the process easy. Yes, some use oil extraction with success.

Bradski, what year so you have? Do you have the access panels?
2017 G80 3.8. No access hatches like on her Kia Sportage. Got to the front panel with a floor jack, but no way to remove the rear panel without going up on ramps.

I'm thinking about alternating every other change with a pump. Siphon, throw in a pint of cheap stuff and siphon again. The filter I put in is rated to 10k and might do that every other time as well.

I know, I know, filters are cheap, but I'm fat and have better things to do than wallering under and car. I just don't trust someone else as much as I do myself.
 
I wonder if the 2019 panels would fit a 2017? My not be cheap. But I think you're right, syphoning it out makes more sense.
 
So I finally changed the oil on my 2019 G80 3.8.

Process was easy, I jacked up the left front side of the car using a 3 ton floor jack and put a jack stand next to the floor jack for safety. I was able to access the oil filter and drain plug with ease.

Not sure if it's okay for the car's frame to jack it up on one side to change the oil 20 times over the car's life, so I may buy some Rhino Ramps instead. I never liked getting under a car held by jacks and stands, anyway. At least I'm not in an earthquake prone area!

A simple socket set was used to remove and install everything, no issue there - easy access.

The oil drain plug faces rearwards on the car, so raising the front end might help with draining all the oil out. It uses a 17mm socket to access.

The two access panels were easy to remove and use a 10mm socket, but the rear one which accesses the oil drain plug also had two plastic snap-in panel joiner things that also had to be removed. Overkill if you ask me, but it is what it is. Just pry them open with a flat blade screwdriver and they pull out easily.

I made the mistake of buying 10 oil drain plug aluminum gaskets - I didn't realize that one comes with the WIX oil filter I had bought. So I'll never use those. The filter also comes with the rubber o-ring you need to replace on the oil filter cap.

My old drain pan only held 5 quarts, so I bought a new one that holds eight quarts. It's the Capri Tools CP21024, on Amazon for $20. It's easy when it comes to pouring the old oil out. This engine holds 7.3 quarts, it worked well. Plus, it's very convenient to have a second catch pan - one for the oil, and one for the filter.

I bought a 27mm socket to remove the oil cap to access the old cartridge filter. Bought the "Steelman 27mm Low Profile Oil Filter Wrench Socket" on Amazon for $10. It's well made. You could use a box or crescent wrench but it would not be nearly as easy. Plus, you're less likely to damage the cap by using a proper socket.

For oil, I used Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and the filter is a WIX WL10033. Got the oil at Walmart, bought three 5 quarts jugs - the 3.8 engine uses just under 1.5 jugs per change, so I kept half a jug which I'll use on my next oil change. Actually, the car seemed to use more like 7.25 quarts, so I may use the extra, left over oil to help flush the old stuff out on next oil change.

The WIX WL10033 oil filter was bought at RockAuto.com. They have good prices and fast shipping. I researched every filter available for this engine and the WIX is about as good as they get.

I noticed that the oil filter housing is made by Mahle, and that company also makes oil filters for this car. I overlooked them when searching for filters but will consider them in the future. I suspect the OEM filters are made by Mahle. One would think Mahle knows how to make filters for their own filter housing.

The only unusual part of this was replacing the new filter, o-ring, and cap onto the filter housing. It became tight sooner than expected as I was screwing it on, I was afraid I was cross-threading it. There were marks of white paint on the filter housing, one on the housing and one on the cap. Before I removed the cap I noticed the two white marks lined up. When replacing the cap I stopped tightening it when the marks lined up again and the cap was seated. I was glad to have that visual reference.

I was able to get all the old oil into empty jugs I had, filling empty space in old jugs used by two other cars. There's a Qwik Lube on my way to work where I can dump the old oil, so no issue there.

All in all, I would say that I can change the oil in the car in equal or better time that it would take two drive it to the dealer and have it done. I don't trust the Genesis valet pick up anyway, or the synthetic oil upcharge, so this works for me. Plus I kind of enjoy doing the work.

Great write up, really enjoyed reading it.

Have you considered the K&N oil filters? There are two models, SP (regular) and HP (high performance). They look pretty well made and I wonder how they compare to wix?

I wonder what the rating is for the K&N HP filter... (miles)

Also, how often do you change your oil? The pennzoil platinum is good stuff... You can land great deals on Amazon periodically.
 
Great write up, really enjoyed reading it.

Have you considered the K&N oil filters? There are two models, SP (regular) and HP (high performance). They look pretty well made and I wonder how they compare to wix?

I wonder what the rating is for the K&N HP filter... (miles)

Also, how often do you change your oil? The pennzoil platinum is good stuff... You can land great deals on Amazon periodically.
Honestly I can't recall the main reason for picking the WIX over the K&N. Maybe it was the paper/cloth end of the K&N that was a turn off, although the OEM Mahle filter has this cloth-looking end as well. I'd have to dig back into the specs again to see why. I'm sure they're both great filters. The WIX did cost less, and all things equal, I'll save the money. I bought it all on RockAuto and they didn't have the K&N.

For the interval I'll go about 9 months. Manual says I can go 12 months, but in Texas heat I will change it more often. I don't drive much, only 7-9K a year. I use Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum, both meet ACEA A5/B5 spec which is defined in the manual. Not that meeting this spec is critical at all - but why not, they're great oils. Yes, I look on Amazon or Walmart, someone is having a sale if you wait a bit.

This is from Amazon, but the WIX was only $5.61 on RockAuto. I was buying several things (including three of the WIX filters) so the shipping was worth it.

1594431240595.png
 
Honestly I can't recall the main reason for picking the WIX over the K&N. Maybe it was the paper/cloth end of the K&N that was a turn off, although the OEM Mahle filter has this cloth-looking end as well. I'd have to dig back into the specs again to see why. I'm sure they're both great filters. The WIX did cost less, and all things equal, I'll save the money. I bought it all on RockAuto and they didn't have the K&N.

For the interval I'll go about 9 months. Manual says I can go 12 months, but in Texas heat I will change it more often. I don't drive much, only 7-9K a year. I use Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum, both meet ACEA A5/B5 spec which is defined in the manual. Not that meeting this spec is critical at all - but why not, they're great oils. Yes, I look on Amazon or Walmart, someone is having a sale if you wait a bit.

This is from Amazon, but the WIX was only $5.61 on RockAuto. I was buying several things (including three of the WIX filters) so the shipping was worth it.

View attachment 30654

I've used Wix for years and it was due to the tear downs and how it compared to other filters. Wix and one other brand (where Wix made the filters for them ie... rebranded) mopped the floor.

However, the worst back then like Fram, Mobile1 (paper coffee like junk filters) etc... have now joined the extended mileage filters and now have a line of their own which I'm sure are good enough comparatively.

Mahle makes good stuff and is definitely top shelf quality. The stock filters used on our Genesis are Mahle oil filters..

As for driving I'm in the same boat as you with the miles driven per year... Since I'll be using the usual Amsoil Signature in my Genny I should be able to go quite a while before having to change it. The rated change interval is 25K or 1 Year ... however, I'll likely keep a close eye on it at around 10K and periodically check the oil as I plan to send in a sample to get it tested for my own data. I'll change the filter around that time too... I've tested many samples back in the day during my track days so I know Amsoil holds up... it's actually quite incredible.

Pennzoil is good stuff. I've used the Ultra platinum before when I had bought a few cases when it was on sale.

Out of curiosity, since you're in a hot environment, do you plan to change out your transmission fluid early for preventative measures? I'm not sure how many miles you have, but I like to change mine out at the 30K mark, just because I have the Amsoil ATF already anyway and it's one of those things of "eh why not..."

Have you looked into using Motorkote? It's very promising and being that you're in a hot environment it would be really beneficial.
 
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