Possible alternator replacement on a 2015 Genesis 5.0 V8.

[DaleNet]

With 90K miles, I would change the timing chain while you have it torn down.

 

[5.0KDM]

I admit that I was very very upset that I am having this issue with the oil sensor port because of a possible misprint in the service manual. Hence, why I considered dumping the car. However, I am over it now. Crap happens but you move on.

I mean i would be livid! What if you were getting work done at a dealership and the tech decided to follow the manual? Im assuming they are using the same ones.

My Genesis do have 90k miles so I guess it is time to start some maintenance on it. I could not find an replacement car that I liked over my Genesis that cost less than $50k; so I decided to just keep it and fix it.

I was on the fence about buying mine used but like you said the price was too good to pass up. I drive alot of highway miles to work and this thing is a cruiser!

I bought this used 5.0 lower front timing cover pulled from a 2015 KIA K900. It has the same part number as the 2015 Genesis 5.0; so it should work if it is not damaged. I will mark the old oil sensor threads on the replacement cover and replace the new sensor with the same number of threads instead of going by the service manual specs.

Again Thank You! You and a couple of other members on here are on the forefront of repairs and information for the DH platform!

 

[carguy75]

With 90K miles, I would change the timing chain while you have it torn down.

Good idea, but I will not touch the timing chain if the tension is tight. However, it does make sense to swap out the old chain and timing cam gears while I am in there. I will do some research and see how complicated the process is on the TAU engine.

Some newer engines require cam locking tools and special timing setting procedures to get these advanced timing systems properly TDC. Therefore, I may just leave well enough alone with the timing system if the chain is tight and the guides are not worn. I will just swap out the old tensioners since bad tensioners usually causes the chain to stretch and jump teeth.

 

[carguy75]

I mean i would be livid! What if you were getting work done at a dealership and the tech decided to follow the manual? Im assuming they are using the same ones.

I was on the fence about buying mine used but like you said the price was too good to pass up. I drive alot of highway miles to work and this thing is a cruiser!

Again Thank You! You and a couple of other members on here are on the forefront of repairs and information for the DH platform!

Live and learn. I know now that the oil sensor can only go in to a certain point in the port. It seems to be about half way on the oil sensor treads on the replacement cover and on some others that I saw online as well.

Which is odd since most other oil sensors on other cars I installed seem to bottom out on a block. The Genesis oil sensor looks to be half way installed by design.

I really like my Genesis 5.0 Ultimate; so it is hard to replace. Most newer cars do not really get my attention enough to swap it out for one. I do like some newer high-end makes, but I like not having an car payment more. So I will grind this out for a while until the repairs get to be too much.

I hope my posts does help someone else with a high mileage out of warranty 2015+ Genesis with similar repairs.

 

[JEBIV]

Typically cast iron pipe threads will accept a deeper amount of thread than aluminum, but the installation is still the same, finger tight and then 1 to 2 turns. Never in my 40 plus years in the automotive industry have I seen a torque value for pipe thread.

 

[carguy75]

Typically cast iron pipe threads will accept a deeper amount of thread than aluminum, but the installation is still the same, finger tight and then 1 to 2 turns. Never in my 40 plus years in the automotive industry have I seen a torque value for pipe thread.

I believe that you are correct sir.

It does seem like the proper tightening force needed for the 5.0 oil sensor is about hand tight plus a couple turns. I do not know why Hyundai made such a serious error in the offical service manual. I can imagine that many high mileage Genesis 5.0 models will start getting crack timing covers with oil sensors changes that will be repaired by dealerships for free until Hyundai correct the information.

Owners may not even know that it happens, but will be told that the dealership will need more time to finish the car.

 

[carguy75]

Note: I believe the JB epoxy may have worked to prevent a leak from my broken oil sensor port. However, I really did not want to drive to work and have the epoxy fail and dump all my engine oil out of the engine while I am on the highway and possibly destroy the engine. Hence, I just decided to replace the cover over risking the entire engine to save some money and time.

 

[4225724]

Note: I believe the JB epoxy may have worked to prevent a leak from my broken oil sensor port. However, I really did not want to drive to work and have the epoxy fail and dump all my engine oil out of the engine while I am on the highway and possibly destroy the engine. Hence, I just decided to replace the cover over risking the entire engine to save some money and time.

So did your car end up starting with no issues at least which was the initial problem?

Because I'm currently have the same issue after replacing the battery. The car is not turning over right away, I would have to play with it for a good 3 to 5 minutes before the car actually turning over and starting.

 

[carguy75]

So did your car end up starting with no issues at least which was the initial problem?

Because I'm currently have the same issue after replacing the battery. The car is not turning over right away, I would have to play with it for a good 3 to 5 minutes before the car actually turning over and starting.

My car is still being repaired. The lower front timing cover is a very hard job to perform. It requires the upper oil pan to be removed as well, which means the front sub-frame has to be dropped. I am only now starting to reinstall the upper oil pan.

 

[4225724]

My car is still being repaired. The lower front timing cover is a very hard job to perform. It requires the upper oil pan to be removed as well, which means the front sub-frame has to be dropped. I am only now starting to reinstall the upper oil pan.

Wow. Ok, thanks for the response. I'll be looking out for next update.

______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!

 

[carguy75]

Wow. Ok, thanks for the response. I'll be looking out for next update.

No problem.

I wish that I was able to check the new alternator, but I had to remove it as well to access the lower front timing cover. However, I will post updates about the Denso alternator in this thread when the other project is over.

 

[carguy75]

To follow up on this thread. The Denso 210-0717 alternator works perfectly.

It is an cheaper replacement for the stock alternator in the 2015 5.0 model.

Note: I believe that my aftermarket amplifier(100amp load) is what killed my old alternator since it quickly drained the battery during use which made it hard for the charging system to keep up and burned out the alternator.

I recommend using a auxiliary battery and/or higher output than stock alternator(over 180amp) if upgrading to an aftermarket amplifier that pulls more than 50amps on the stock alternator.

 

[skipgen]

To follow up on this thread. The Denso 210-0717 alternator works perfectly.

It is an cheaper replacement for the stock alternator in the 2015 5.0 model.

Note: I believe that my aftermarket amplifier(100amp load) is what killed my old alternator since it quickly drained the battery during use which made it hard for the charging system to keep up and burned out the alternator.

I recommend using a auxiliary battery and/or higher output than stock alternator(over 180amp) if upgrading to an aftermarket amplifier that pulls more than 50amps on the stock alternator.

My indie mechanic replaced mine w/ a Denso - it works fine as well.

 

[cbarrien]

My Genesis just hit 90k miles and I think that I may have to perform my first mechanical repair on it; the alternator. Today I noticed that my car battery had only 4 volts. A few days ago it had 12.4volts when I checked it with a meter after driving the Genesis; so something have quickly drained my battery in the last few days. The battery did have a problem charging the day before it drained down to 4volts; as that it never became fully charged with my battery charger per the charger display.

I currently have my battery removed out of the trunk and is charging it with a battery charger which will also recondition the battery. I checked the battery with a battery tester after it gained some voltage(about 10v) and it passed the amperage test; so it seems that the battery can be saved.

Now I have to solve the battery drain issue. My first guess is that the alternator is not working properly and may have a bad rectifier circuit that is draining the battery at rest. The second guess could be a control module that is not sleeping at rest.

So my first step is to check the alternator when the battery is fully charged; unless the battery is just bad and never charge. I still have warranty coverage on the 950A AGM H9 Diehard battery I purchased a couple years ago I believe, but I want to make sure that the drain issue will not also kill the new battery as well if one is present.

If it does turn to be an alternator issue; then I will post how to replace the alternator on the 2015 5.0 engine. Wish me luck.

I’m about to replace the alternator on my Genny. After looking at it it literally looks like u just have to remove the fan shroud, after that I’m going to slowly and carefully ratchet strap the coolant hose out of the way cause I’m 99% sure it’s possible to do without draining the coolant, I’ve been studying how to do this job for months and I’m so sure I don’t gotta touch the coolant at all prove me wrong tho please so I don’t waste time.