kelrog
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- Jul 18, 2020
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- Location
- RDU
- Genesis Model Year
- 2025
- Genesis Model Type
- Genesis G80 Sport
Wanted to share with anyone looking to install this on a 2025+ G80, as I just finished the install.
Shark Racing modules for:
RG3 models 21+
sharkracing.com
Electric models
Proximity Smart Door Lock Module - Electric Cars
Backstory: Had two of these modules for our previous 19 Stinger and 21 Telluride, so was already familiar with these. Was hoping to reuse one of those in the new car by off chance it would work, but that wasn't the case, so ordered 2 new modules from Shark for our 25 GV80 and G80.
Shark Installation instructions:
These are pretty horrible black and white instructions I received, I've asked for digital copies twice now, and still haven't gotten anywhere. So had to make educated guesses with the wiring colors. Basically, you are taking 4 wires and tapping into 2 Can-Bus wires next to the Drivers dead pedal, and two wires from the ODB-II sensor to power the unit. I'll attach a better copy of the print out.
The kit comes with the module and wiring.
I'd highly recommend using some of these posi wire taps, as traditional ones aren't nearly as easy to use, and don't require a crimper.
(see attached)
Amazon Link - Amazon.com
Dorman also sells a version of these at Car Parts stores. https://www.autozone.com/p/dorman-t-tap-terminal-85037/1412217
Center of the picture is how the wires come, I like to combine the red/black (positive +, ground) and the Can-Bus wires (Other red / blue (Can B H / Can B L) and wrap them with electrical tape, to keep everything tidy.
So few things you'll need:
Wire Stripers for the wires
Knife or Scissors
Patience
Light source for under the dash
Optional:
Trim removal tools (plastic / nylon)
Electrical Tape
Small Zip Tie
Posi-Taps or T-Taps
On to the install,
If you would like to pull the battery, you can, but with a pretty small load of like 5v, I don't think its worth the effort. (Attempt at your own risk)
Once you have the car off, and drivers door open, gently pull the door trim rubber seal back from the front bottom of the door frame, about half way up and back then over towards the seat. This will make trim removal so much easier. Then you'll need to pop off the longer bottom plastic trim molding, slowly, and set it aside.
Then you'll want to gently pop off the hood release leaver straight out, towards the gas pedal. With that off, you can then remove the panel next to the dead pedal. It will pull towards you a bit, and then there are two tabs on the top left that were in pretty good for me. Those will also need to gently pulled out towards the rear. A trim removal tool may help with these parts.
This will reveal the grey / white plug (MF11 connector) cable.
To release this, under the bottom of the plug is a black push leaver, that you can then swing the lock up and pull the plug out of the socket.
Next, start pulling the OEM wrappings off the plug, all of it will need to come off.
You can see it was quite a lot. After all that, remove the zip tie, carefully.
Then gently pry off the black locking henge off the plug, then pull up the gray tabs and pop the top off the rest of the plug.
Shark's pictures are referenced by looking at the wiring from the back side of the plugs, so on my car, the two wires we need access two where green and orange.
You may need to keep sliding the wire loom up the wires, so there is plenty of room for the taps.
So, we'll need to get into the Orange and Green wires, and match them up to the second red and blue wires on the module. Orange to Second Red, and Green to Blue.
Make sure you feed the second red wire, and blue wires, down through the top of the gray top cover of the plug before finishing the taps.
So at this point, you'll want to reconnect the gray topper, and the black henge to the white plug. Don't wrap it or tidy it up just yet, until the unit powers and tests correctly.
Above the dash, there is a small triangluar panel that is the side of the dash, we'll want to get to that by removing the fuse cover left of the steering wheel. From inside that cavity, you should be able to push out with your right hand, and pull the panel out left a bit, and towards you, and pop the two tabs from that panel. This will create a path to feed the module wires up under the dash up and around the fuse panel, and out it.
Peeking inside and down to the right, you'll see the OBD-II plug, that you should be able to feel under neath the left of the dash. The plug has release tabs, that you'll want to hit from the side of the dash, and from the fuse panel.
Now you can push it out of the slot, and then feed it down to under the dash, gently pulling on the loose corner of the panel nearest the plug hole.
Pull the wire loom / wrappings up and off the plug, and then you can finish feeding the module wires back out the same spot as the plug.
Now you can tap into this plug. First red, to dark green (not red to red) and then black to the black wire.
If you did this with the battery connected, then you should have two green led's light up on the module (one is power, other shows Can-Bus connectivity) If it is not lighting up, check both diagrams, colors, and all the taps again.
At this point, I would get up, and close the driver door. With keys in hand, walk about 10 feet away with the keys behind your back. After a minute or so, the car should beep (lock) and mirrors should fold in. *** On both my G80 and GV80 they would not auto UN lock the doors, when walking up. The mirrors would still unfold, but you will still have to touch the door handle (doesn't matter which) I'm still awaiting official word from Shark Racing if this is actually expected behavior for these newer cars with this standard feature. ***
Everything works? Good job!
Now you can go back to the other white plug, and add a new zip tie and wrap that plug if you would like to keep things looking nice, and ensure the taps don't wiggle loose.
Then do the same for the OBD-II plug, and push both back up into the fuse box cavity, and reseat the black plug, and tuck the module cables up with it. I found that to the left of the fuse box, with the side panel back in place, it will do a great job of hiding the module. Also allows, for easy access via the fuse panel. (every year or, on my previous cars, of the course of a few years, the modules would need to be unplugged, and restarted if they stopped working as intended)
Close up the fuse panel, and replace the trim panels, and give it all one last test! Congrats! I hope this help anyone that keeps coming back to an unlocked car, especially in that first few days / weeks after having this feature in another car.
*** Remember, the module can be deactivated, by hitting the trunk button 3 times in a row. To reactivate, just hit it 3 more time ***
I'll try and work on a printable version of this, if time permits. Enjoy!
Shark Racing modules for:
RG3 models 21+
Proximity Smart Door Lock Module - Various Applications
Established in 1999, Shark Racing is the No. 1 source of parts and accessories for Korean cars.
Electric models
Proximity Smart Door Lock Module - Electric Cars
Backstory: Had two of these modules for our previous 19 Stinger and 21 Telluride, so was already familiar with these. Was hoping to reuse one of those in the new car by off chance it would work, but that wasn't the case, so ordered 2 new modules from Shark for our 25 GV80 and G80.
Shark Installation instructions:
These are pretty horrible black and white instructions I received, I've asked for digital copies twice now, and still haven't gotten anywhere. So had to make educated guesses with the wiring colors. Basically, you are taking 4 wires and tapping into 2 Can-Bus wires next to the Drivers dead pedal, and two wires from the ODB-II sensor to power the unit. I'll attach a better copy of the print out.
The kit comes with the module and wiring.
I'd highly recommend using some of these posi wire taps, as traditional ones aren't nearly as easy to use, and don't require a crimper.
(see attached)
Amazon Link - Amazon.com
Dorman also sells a version of these at Car Parts stores. https://www.autozone.com/p/dorman-t-tap-terminal-85037/1412217
Center of the picture is how the wires come, I like to combine the red/black (positive +, ground) and the Can-Bus wires (Other red / blue (Can B H / Can B L) and wrap them with electrical tape, to keep everything tidy.
So few things you'll need:
Wire Stripers for the wires
Knife or Scissors
Patience
Light source for under the dash
Optional:
Trim removal tools (plastic / nylon)
Electrical Tape
Small Zip Tie
Posi-Taps or T-Taps
On to the install,
If you would like to pull the battery, you can, but with a pretty small load of like 5v, I don't think its worth the effort. (Attempt at your own risk)
Once you have the car off, and drivers door open, gently pull the door trim rubber seal back from the front bottom of the door frame, about half way up and back then over towards the seat. This will make trim removal so much easier. Then you'll need to pop off the longer bottom plastic trim molding, slowly, and set it aside.
Then you'll want to gently pop off the hood release leaver straight out, towards the gas pedal. With that off, you can then remove the panel next to the dead pedal. It will pull towards you a bit, and then there are two tabs on the top left that were in pretty good for me. Those will also need to gently pulled out towards the rear. A trim removal tool may help with these parts.
This will reveal the grey / white plug (MF11 connector) cable.
To release this, under the bottom of the plug is a black push leaver, that you can then swing the lock up and pull the plug out of the socket.
Next, start pulling the OEM wrappings off the plug, all of it will need to come off.
You can see it was quite a lot. After all that, remove the zip tie, carefully.
Then gently pry off the black locking henge off the plug, then pull up the gray tabs and pop the top off the rest of the plug.
Shark's pictures are referenced by looking at the wiring from the back side of the plugs, so on my car, the two wires we need access two where green and orange.
You may need to keep sliding the wire loom up the wires, so there is plenty of room for the taps.
So, we'll need to get into the Orange and Green wires, and match them up to the second red and blue wires on the module. Orange to Second Red, and Green to Blue.
Make sure you feed the second red wire, and blue wires, down through the top of the gray top cover of the plug before finishing the taps.
So at this point, you'll want to reconnect the gray topper, and the black henge to the white plug. Don't wrap it or tidy it up just yet, until the unit powers and tests correctly.
Above the dash, there is a small triangluar panel that is the side of the dash, we'll want to get to that by removing the fuse cover left of the steering wheel. From inside that cavity, you should be able to push out with your right hand, and pull the panel out left a bit, and towards you, and pop the two tabs from that panel. This will create a path to feed the module wires up under the dash up and around the fuse panel, and out it.
Peeking inside and down to the right, you'll see the OBD-II plug, that you should be able to feel under neath the left of the dash. The plug has release tabs, that you'll want to hit from the side of the dash, and from the fuse panel.
Now you can push it out of the slot, and then feed it down to under the dash, gently pulling on the loose corner of the panel nearest the plug hole.
Pull the wire loom / wrappings up and off the plug, and then you can finish feeding the module wires back out the same spot as the plug.
Now you can tap into this plug. First red, to dark green (not red to red) and then black to the black wire.
If you did this with the battery connected, then you should have two green led's light up on the module (one is power, other shows Can-Bus connectivity) If it is not lighting up, check both diagrams, colors, and all the taps again.
At this point, I would get up, and close the driver door. With keys in hand, walk about 10 feet away with the keys behind your back. After a minute or so, the car should beep (lock) and mirrors should fold in. *** On both my G80 and GV80 they would not auto UN lock the doors, when walking up. The mirrors would still unfold, but you will still have to touch the door handle (doesn't matter which) I'm still awaiting official word from Shark Racing if this is actually expected behavior for these newer cars with this standard feature. ***
Everything works? Good job!
Now you can go back to the other white plug, and add a new zip tie and wrap that plug if you would like to keep things looking nice, and ensure the taps don't wiggle loose.
Then do the same for the OBD-II plug, and push both back up into the fuse box cavity, and reseat the black plug, and tuck the module cables up with it. I found that to the left of the fuse box, with the side panel back in place, it will do a great job of hiding the module. Also allows, for easy access via the fuse panel. (every year or, on my previous cars, of the course of a few years, the modules would need to be unplugged, and restarted if they stopped working as intended)
Close up the fuse panel, and replace the trim panels, and give it all one last test! Congrats! I hope this help anyone that keeps coming back to an unlocked car, especially in that first few days / weeks after having this feature in another car.
*** Remember, the module can be deactivated, by hitting the trunk button 3 times in a row. To reactivate, just hit it 3 more time ***
I'll try and work on a printable version of this, if time permits. Enjoy!
