Question about 2010 oil change

[HateiLove]

Hey Guys,

Dumb question here but what is the drain pan screw supposed to be torqued at. I recently brought a 2010 genesis sedan V6 back in October and has an oil change done at the dealer. It is time for another oil change and I thought this time I could do it my self. The filter was tight but managed to get it off with a torque wrench easily as it was in the engine compartment. I drive the car up my ramps and tried to drain the oil but couldn't get it off using the torque wrench. Eventually I gave up as it was so tight and I didn't want to strip the screw. Might need to go back and just have the dealer do the oil change.

 

[HateiLove]

Gonna try again next week. I had the torque wrench up to 40 ft-lbs. Gonna keep going up till the bolt gives. They probably used an impact gun to tighten it.

 

[edizzle89]

why are you using a torque wrench to remove things? removal torque should have nothing to do with how tight something is/needs to be.

 

[HateiLove]

I should get a breaker bar to remove it?

 

[edizzle89]

a rachet, wrench, breaker bar, impact, etc can be used, just make sure to use the correct size tool and it should be fine, if any damage was cause when it was last tightened then it wont get any worse removing it. Torque wrenches are for installing parts, there's no reason (outside of engineering for manufacturers to find break-away torque) to use a torque wrench while disassembling anything.

 

[joegr]

I should get a breaker bar to remove it?

It's very hard to image that it's on tight enough to need more than a normal 12" socket wrench handle.

 

[HateiLove]

I initially used an 6 inch socket wrench and wouldn't budge. Changed to an 8 inch socket and still wouldn't budge. Tried my M12 electric socket wrench and still wouldn't do anything. So I used the torque wrench since it's 12 inches so there would be more leverage but it still didn't budge when I turned it to 40 ft-lbs. It kept make my the clicking sound meaning that I was at the limit. I used the correct 17 mm socket while doing all this.

 

[Oldman-Gen1]

The torque wrench is for tightening bolts, the clicking that you hear is telling you that bolt is at least tighten to 40 ft pounds. I suspect it's actually more since you can't get it loose. Try a longer breaker bar, or if you have some extra pvc piping, use that to slide over your ratchet handle.

 

[joegr]

The torque wrench is for tightening bolts, the clicking that you hear is telling you that bolt is at least tighten to 40 ft pounds. ...

No, it doesn't work that way at all. It is not telling anything about what the bolt was actually tightened to. It is only saying that you need more than 40 ft-lbs to loosen it. If may have been tightened to more or less than 40 ft-lbs, but it now needs more than 40 ft-lbs to loosen it.

 

[Oldman-Gen1]

Well, maybe we can agree that you are using the wrong equipment.

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[Oldman-Gen1]

I meant to say OP is using wrong equipment

 

[Oldman-Gen1]

No, it doesn't work that way at all. It is not telling anything about what the bolt was actually tightened to. It is only saying that you need more than 40 ft-lbs to loosen it. If may have been tightened to more or less than 40 ft-lbs, but it now needs more than 40 ft-lbs to loosen it.

You are correct, however reread my post. That is exactly what I told the OP

 

[edizzle89]

Try a longer breaker bar, or if you have some extra pvc piping, use that to slide over your ratchet handle.

hope you mean metal pipe, pvc pipe will most likely break far before the bolt is loose

 

[joegr]

hope you mean metal pipe, pvc pipe will most likely break far before the bolt is loose

Schedule 40 PVC will bend some, but probably not break. Schedule 80 PVC even less so. Yes, galvanized pipe would be better, but you use what you have.

 

[Gunkk]

I see two possibilities: 1. corrosion and 2. overtightening.

In either case, some damage to the plug is likely, so IMO go buy a replacement from the dealer for $5-10 before you actually break it loose... or break it off. And have a steel drill bit and an easy-out handy for when you do...

WD40 penetrating may help. An electric (battery) impact driver might be useful here... as the impact can sometimes break things loose without requiring stupid levels of torque or trying to grapple with extender bars under the car.

Good luck.

 

[Ozy44]

I would NEVER recommend using PVC pipe of any schedule as a breaker bar. PVC can become brittle with age, or even when it's new and shatter into sharp projectiles.

Schedule 40 PVC will bend some, but probably not break. Schedule 80 PVC even less so. Yes, galvanized pipe would be better, but you use what you have.

 

[HateiLove]

Wish I had read your post earlier but I did change the oil yesterday. Finally got that sucker off with a 25 inch breaker bar. The threads were okay but the freaking washer was molded with the nut. Couldn't even get it off with pryers. I ended up just using it as is and will replace it during my next oil change. I should just go to the dealer to get an OEM drain bolt or are generic drain bolts from auto shops not safe?

Thanks to everyone for giving me advice! Feeling accomplished for doing my first ever oil change by my self.

 

[joegr]

In general, Dorman makes some pretty crappy parts, however their drain plugs have been great for me.
Dorman 65230
The above comes with a rubberized washer that seals very well.
You can get five bolts and washers for $4.33
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIQY1E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[jmac404]

You can get the washer off. It takes some prying, then grab it with channel locks or vice grips and unscrew the bolt from it.