Regular service

[hokie1525]

So my dealer is recommending 5000 mile intervals. They say conditions in Oklahoma are "harsh" (heat, cold). They also recommend services like oil and fuel additives, as well as various fluid flushes that aren't part of the normal condition schedule. I'm wondering how people feel on this?

Also, I was considering doing my own oil changes. Just so I can get good oil in my car and avoid the dealer's $90 regular schedule price which only includes normal QS oil plus an additive. I can do the oil changes (I'll get a pump and do from above so I don't have to mess with the shroud), but as to checking belts, hoses, and transmission fluids I'm not an expert on that.

So I was thinking of maybe doing a full service at a local shop (non dealer) every 30k miles to check that stuff, then do my own oil and filter changes. Thoughts?

 

[trespinosranch]

When I signed up for Blue Link, they scheduled my first service. They said oil should be changed every 3,750 miles. I was in shock...my last 3 cars had synthetic oil and service was every 10k miles or 1 year.

 

[kn5owa]

Also, I was considering doing my own oil changes. Just so I can get good oil in my car and avoid the dealer's $90 regular schedule price which only includes normal QS oil plus an additive. I can do the oil changes (I'll get a pump and do from above so I don't have to mess with the shroud), but as to checking belts, hoses, and transmission fluids I'm not an expert on that.

Thoughts?

Here's my thoughts - you're in the right direction - I use a fluid pump (Mity-Vac) driven by a Husky air compressor to evacuate the old oil - and it works great. The 5.0 L oil/filter change is something else. You have to remove a large front lower panel to access the oil filter. But, to drain the oil, you have to remove a large center panel which is literally under the center of the car. And, yes, the dealers are notorious for screwing it up - there are maybe 40-50 fasteners involved for just the panels.

As far as the so-called "cartridge filter" system, I've had plenty of practice on my Sonata's. I'm not sure which type of filter your 3.8 takes, but if you can do it yourself, by all means do so. Again, not being all that familar with the 3.8, but I think everything can be done from above on that engine if you use a fluid vacuum pump. I'm sure Mark-888 will jump in with his usual good advice as he has a 3.8L and does his own oil/filter changes.

 

[Mark_888]

I don't mean to be rude (and I will apologize in advance), but I am surprised that a 41 year old person would not understand that everything a dealer tells you is designed for them to make more money. Everything.

Regarding regular QS with additives, my opinion is to not do that. Use a full synthetic oil and do not put any additives in your crankcase (it will void the warranty on the engine if they find out and something goes wrong with the engine). If you use a full synthetic, 7500 mile oil change interval is fine.

Hopefully you realize that the QS recommendation is due to a Hyundai/Shell marketing agreement, and QS is not the necessarily the best oil for your car. In fact among the Shell products (Shell, Pennzoil, QS), it is the worst. But they chose QS to recommend because most Hyundai buyers are getting an Elantra, etc and want the cheapest oil the can find.

I would recommend doing the oil change yourself if you can. Use only Hyundai OEM filters (they are cartridge filters and not like the screw on metal ones on many other cars). Be sure to save all receipts and document you oil changes, and also document them on www.myhyundai.com

IMO, you don't need to do the checking stuff. Do not get anywhere near the transmission, as it is not designed to be easily changed or even to check the fluid (it uses a long life synthetic fluid).

 

[hokie1525]

I don't mean to be rude (and I will apologize in advance), but I am surprised that a 41 year old person would not understand that everything a dealer tells you is designed for them to make more money. Everything.

Regarding regular QS with additives, my opinion is to not do that. Use a full synthetic oil and do not put any additives in your crankcase (it will void the warranty on the engine if they find out and something goes wrong with the engine). If you use a full synthetic, 7500 mile oil change interval is fine.

Hopefully you realize that the QS recommendation is due to a Hyundai/Shell marketing agreement, and QS is not the necessarily the best oil for your car. In fact among the Shell products (Shell, Pennzoil, QS), it is the worst. But they chose QS to recommend because most Hyundai buyers are getting an Elantra, etc and want the cheapest oil the can find.

I would recommend doing the oil change yourself if you can. Use only Hyundai OEM filters (they are cartridge filters and not like the screw on metal ones on many other cars). Be sure to save all receipts and document you oil changes, and also document them on www.myhyundai.com

IMO, you don't need to do the checking stuff. Do not get anywhere near the transmission, as it is not designed to be easily changed or even to check the fluid (it uses a long life synthetic fluid).

Not true. The dealer showed me where the bathroom was. Not sure how that made them money.

I get that they want to make money. I'm just trying to determine the best way to take care of my car. Thanks for the great advice.

 

[Mark_888]

Not true. The dealer showed me where the bathroom was. Not sure how that made them money.

Would have cost the dealer more money to clean up the flow, so that is why he told you.

 

[hokie1525]

If I do my own oil changes, I'll have to find somewhere to go to get tires rotated. I don't intend on buying the equipment necessary to do it myself.

 

[PMCErnie]

If I do my own oil changes, I'll have to find somewhere to go to get tires rotated. I don't intend on buying the equipment necessary to do it myself.

Okay.