Running Change - Trunkj Hook & Latch

[dond13]

I think the "plunger" to the right of the trunk latch loop is nothing more than a spring to push the trunk up about a half inch when the remote trunk opener in the driver side door is actuated. I can't find any wiring that goes to it. The trunk light and the "trunk open" warning light on the dash are tied in with the trunk latch. When I manually closed the latch with my finger, the trunk light and warning light went out. When I press the trunk opener on the trunk lid, the latch opens and the lights come on.

Bob, dond13 - I assume you don't have the remote trunk release on your cars since you don't have the "plunger".

Yes, I have the remote trunk release on mine. That is what I'm guessing the switch on the right side behind the flap is.

 

[Seattle Genesis]

Yes, I have the remote trunk release on mine. That is what I'm guessing the switch on the right side behind the flap is.

I have the remote trunk lid button on the driver side door. Also on my key fob. When I open my trunk using either button all my trunk does is unlock. It does not open up even an inch. So my guess is that plunger just pushes the lid open a bit.

 

[mcginnpm]

From your responses and pics, it looks like Hyundai added the "plunger" to push the trunk lid up after the latch releases, be it via the fob, the driver side door remote switch or the switch on the lid itself.

If your trunk just unlocks when you push the button, but it doesn't move up, then Hyundai was probably having issues of the trunk lid re-locking if you happened to bump the top of the lid, or concerns that folks might think the trunk was closed (because it looked like it was closed) when in fact it was opened.

I've occasionally bumped the trunk button on the key fob by accident. When I did I heard the muffled "click" of the latch releasing, the "thwap" of the lid being pushed up and I could clearly see that the lid was open about an inch. Without the plunger I wouldn't have the "thwap" or the visual cue. If I somehow didn't hear the muffled "click", I might walk away thinking my vehicle was secure. (of course there is also the cue of the blinking lights when you lock the car...no blink = something is still open)

 

[Pahaska]

I just found that the flapper in my car is loose and dangling straight down. That is the first problem I have found on my month-old car. I'll put it on the list to get fixed at the first oil change.

 

[ctrcbob]

Bob,

Mine was built 20 Mar 2009 and it was built in the Ulsan plant in Korea.

See TSB 08-GI-002 at www.hmaservice.com for the VIN decoder: 11th character in the VIN defines where your car was built: U=Ulsan Korea, A=Asan Korea, 6=Sohari Korea, B=Bromont Canada, H=Alabama USA.

I'll bet the flap fell off the one at the dealer.

mcginnpm,
This must be a running change, as mine was also made in U=Ulsan Korea but on September 18,2008

 

[mikec]

Mine looks like dond13's first pic. A simple rectangular flap with only a slot to fit around/clear the metal "U" bar. If I push the plastic down there is nothing but a gaping hole all the way down to the spare tire well. No plunger or other round gizmo visible like in mcginnpm's picture. And my car is the 4.6/Tech package - with the door mounted electric trunk release. My trunk lid pops up about a quarter inch when unlocked. I've never had an instance of it staying locked or re-locking from not "jumping" up high enough.

12/18/2008 manufacture date.
VIN code says Ulsan production plant.

mike c.